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Help, any tips on bleeding ABS brakes ??

51K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  chrisvcooper 
#1 ·
It's about time to replace my rear wheel brake cylinders..

That's not a problem, just not sure how to bleed the ABS brakes system on my 98 S-10 ???
 
#3 ·
Same as non-abs, start from Right Rear to Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front. Keep it fluid full, buy new fluid.

Same process, loosen bleeder enough to loosen/tighten, then person inside pumps brake 4-6 times, hold and you loosen and tighten the bleeder until there isn't any air or its smooth flow, when does, tighten well, and move to next one(check fluid and fill in between)

Its bit messy, so you can buy 1/4" tube I think or whichever necessary to fit bleeder so you have it pour into cup or whatever, they are NOT to be re-used.
 
#4 · (Edited)
#5 ·
Because the biggest problem tends to be air getting caught in the ABS system, if you want to perform a full brake system bleed, you would want to start by bleeding just the short lines that go into the ABS box. This should just take a minute.
Then you would want to try to bleed everything up to the ABS box. Tapping the box and moving it around a little may help to get those pesky air bubbles "unstuck."
From there, bolt up all the lines and bleed like the others have said, longest line to shortest.

Hopefully this will work for you.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Not to hijack this thread, but I'm having the same issue. So to bleed the abs module you just unscrew the hoses running from the master cylinder into the ABS box? Loosen them and pump the brakes? Thanks for any additional help. If there is a bleeder valve i don't see it, if a picture could be put up I would appreciate it:tup:

**Edit**
I have a 98 2WD Blazer w/ 4 wheel disk
 
#7 ·
Not to hijack this thread, but I'm having the same issue. So to bleed the abs module you just unscrew the hoses running from the master cylinder into the ABS box? Loosen them and pump the brakes? Thanks for any additional help. If there is a bleeder valve i don't see it, if a picture could be put up I would appreciate it:tup:

**Edit**
I have a 98 2WD Blazer w/ 4 wheel disk


they look like zerk fittings. they are 10mm and they should have a dust cap on them. just look for them they're right in your face when you look at the caliper.
 
#10 · (Edited)
OK, thanks to all who replied to my question..

That'll work..

In my Chiltons Manual they made a Big Deal outta the job, stating I need to go to the dealership & get hooked up to a scan thingie (read $$$) ..& etc...etc.

For now I'm just doing my rear brake cylinders.....

So thanks again..
 
#13 ·
I am having a problem also with my 2000 S-10 blazer 4x4, 4 wheel disc. It started off by doing a simple rt wheel hub, then a caliper froze up so changed all 4 calipers. I made the mistake of not capping off lines so ya got alot of air in them. Well to try make this short after all that ended up changing everything, the booster, ms. I still have no peddle at all after bleeding them for 3 days, and several different ways. I have used the hand pump, truck on, and off still nothing. I get little peddle when truck off, but loose it after it sits for 30 sec. Still no peddle at all when truck running. I need serious help???:rant:
 
#14 ·
Hook a scanner up to it and go thru the abs bleed proceedure on it. Do this several times switching off vehicle and then restarting the proceedure again. Then go the r/r, the l/r, the r/f, then the l/f wheel and bleed to all you see is straight clear fluid. Al the while making dang sure the M/C never gets low on fluid. (I did this same deal at the shop.., drove me crazy trying to get barakes on that ford. Finally and I mean finally, after almost a gallon of fluid.., the pedal started to feel good again. I was a happy camper to see that pos leave that day!!)

Usually, and I said USUALLY, the air will get trapped near the rear.. specifically the left rear wheel.

I learned this the hard way.., either to vise-grip the rubber hoses(not enough to kill the hose.., just enuff pressure to close it off) or find a junker and cut the metal lines that go to the hoses.., beat the line part flat and then fold the line up and over itself 3-4 times.
Keep these in your toolbox for having to do stuff like this. Or find some kind of plug that will stop the brake fluid from coming out of that line.

All in all.., never let an ABS system go dry or close to dry. It will become a frequent headache and drive you insane when trying to bleed it out.

Another option..., have someone pump it, then attempt to bleed the abs one line at a time. (harder to do than stated.., but it will give you a 75% chance of getting the air out.)

Lastly.., if your truck has drum brakes on the rear.., make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly. If they are very loose.., this can also cause the "no pedal" or spongy pedal effect as well.

(Due to post of loosing pressure after 30 sec, this was added)
I would also check into the Master Cylinder as well. I've seen new ones that got run dry for a few and they ended up being replaced after that. I would also try bleeding the M/C and make sure it has really good pressure coming out of BOTH outlet ports. If not, take it back off and try to bench bleed it to see if it can get Good pressure out those ports. If still not.., then replace it. Make sure to bench bleed the replacement before you install it back onto truck. Then comes the "bleed everything" fun. Start with M/C..again. Then use the scanner to redo the bleed proceedure again.., then R/R, L/R, R/F, And finally L/F wheel again.

I sure hope you can get it straightened out. It sure sounds like it has been a total PITA deal for you from what I read in your previous posts.
 
#16 ·
I have the abs light on but am unsure if that's the issue. I have soft brakes and after spending a few days reading all over the Internet my head hurts.

I come from super ez Jap car world. Should I do a standard gravity bleed first? Pressure bleed? I don't understand "capping off" the lines...is this referring to the ABS/MS?



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