ABS & Parking Brake Lights On. Could use some help

[AmosM823]

My ABS light and parking brake light comes on everytime I start my truck, and they stay on when I'm driving around, even though my brakes are not on. Anyone have any idea what this means or have this problem in the past?

[AmosM823]

Anyone??

[minitruckerdt]

for starters...i would do a search in the forum...then i would check the fluid levels and if all the abs connections are good....

[GeorgesBlazah]

Check your wheel bearings.

[FoCk3r]

i have the exact same problem. im doing research on this cause dam that stupid light gets annoying.

[Tman]

im having the same problem too... any suggestions?

[RustyButTrusty]

Same problem here...

My ABS started acting up a few months ago ( it would kick in at 7mph, even under light braking... ). A new speed sensor on the front passenger side fixed it for a few weeks, but now they're back on....

[Rhotpursuit]

OK...here we go..I had this same problem on my 92 Z71. While in park..so you don't roll. Step on the brake and watch the e-brake light. If it gets brighter, and it won't be by much, the brakelight switch is bad. I replaced it and everything was fine. I don't know if this "test" will work on the S10's but it's a no-cost way to check. I got this info at www.chevytalk.org

[JohnH]

I had this same problem when I was running different size tires front and rear. So if you have a staggered wheel and tire setup, this may be the problem.

[SmokeeJay]

My 01 Blazer is doing the exact same thing. I believe it is because the ABS sensors are not working. I check the fluid level and that was fine, but I have not had a chance to pull the sensors out of the hubs to check them yet.

[RoadRunnerCBR954]

I had the same problem and it was the ABS module. The fix cost me 150$. The company that fix it was a seller (circuit_solution) on Ebay.
You can check his listing at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ABS-M...33572457QQrdZ1

[Bladez]

The same thing is happening to my 2000. I just replaced my ABS sensors yesterday, and it didn't do anything to solve the problem. Fluid levels are fine. I'm still looking into it but some of the things I've had recommended are:
-Check wiring harness and ground wires
-Check the float in the resevior, if it is acting up, it will cause the lights to come on
-Check ECM (not really sure how this comes into play, but that's what a mechanic told me)

I'll be doing that this weekend more than likely, and let you know if any of it works.

[dart_06]

Quote: Originally Posted by JohnH

I had this same problem when I was running different size tires front and rear. So if you have a staggered wheel and tire setup, this may be the problem.

i have this problem now... i think your allowed to have up to 2" diff between the front and rear.. i know im way over that.. i really need new tires.. its irritating to see that dam light when nuthin is wrong with it... lol

[STXS10]

my truck is starting to do the same thing. Sometimes its fine and sometimes both IDIOT lights are on

[billferguson]

need new hub assemblyl

[wavrun2000]

Yeah mine does it to but not all the time. It is hit or miss, this makes me think that maybe it is just the hub on mine.

[SERIALKILLER]

get it scanned and stop guessing!!!!!!!!! yes u can scan abs codes.

[98chevy_s10]

may go to advance this weekend or next week to have mine tested.I have the same problem.

[SERIALKILLER]

sears sells a abs scanner for 80 bucks its made by actron, im not sure if auto parts stores read scan abs codes but its worth a try instead of spending hundreds of dollars replacing working parts.

[wavrun2000]

No the one they use at Advanced here their scanners don't read the ABS codes.

[Landrew]

Check the front end for the ABS wires to the hub, mine broke. Once I spliced in and soldered new wire no more lights.

[IMScorched]

I just stumbled upon a way to get those stupid lights to go out!! With the engine running, I turned the ignition key "Just A Little" toward the start position until the lights go out (My shift indicator, odometer, and clock also went out), release the key and it will recycle the entire light cycle again and GUESS WHAT!!,, the ABS and Brake Light went out!!! Be Careful NOT to turn the key all the way to the START Position. I decided to take it for a test drive to see if they would stay out, no such luck!! 25 yards down the road they came back on! While I was still moving, I repeated the above procedure, same results, the lights went out. I proceeded with my test drive. I ended up going almost 10 miles with no ABS or BRAKE Light glowing in my eyes!! This is the first time in about 10-12 months that those foolish things haven't been on!
What a pleasure that was!!!!! Not sure at this point if it will last... (Fingers Crossed) Hopefully this might shed some light on a new CAUSE to be investigated.. Maybe it recalibrates some sensor etc., I haven't a clue. Please post YOUR results as I am extremely curious whether this is a fix or just my S**t Luck..

[brandon2282]

my brake and abs light would come on when it felt like it? (one day then not the other) took it to advanced auto parts and they told me to check the vaccum lines (mine were dryrotted to where you could here them sucking air ) they replaced them and installed them for me for under $2 and fixed it


when you pop the hood its in the top right hand corner by the dash its three lines put together by a connector

[Wicked Mayhem]

my lights were on.. brakes always acted fine so im not worried about it. i just cut the traces to the dummy lights so they cant ever come back on.

[Hellcat1]

I'm having the same problem with my 2001 S10 and my dad with his 2001 Jimmy. I started having the problem when I converted the 13" Corvette brakes and Blazer/Jimmy Sealed hubs and spindles. My hubs are new and we have recently replaced the hubs in the Jimmy but both the ABS and Brake lights are still on.

I converted to Hydroboost in my S10 and the ABS and Brake lights still persist.

I do know that the vacuum lines do need to be replaced in my truck and probably the Jimmy and neither have been ABS scanned.

I think it is rather suspect that all of the 00-03 models seem to be having this problem.

[gixxer32404]

I thinkmy abs motor was going out so I pulled fuse and brake and abs light stays on....oh well. I was told abs motor was over $1000.00.

[chadlogan112]

My 00' Blazer is doing the same. My mechanic had a buddy certified in GM brake systems send him some diagnostic info, and it all pretty much boiled down the the abs control module, which will probably run right around $1000. Think I'm just going to disconnect lights from cluster.

[buellxb12s]

im pretty sure i have seen somewhere that there was a recall on this. if anyone has anything on this please let me know my sorry chevy dealer wont do anthing for you unless you do the leg work and get the paperwork to prove it. my s10 periodically lights both lights. use to it would ony be on startup but lately its been while driving.

[STXS10]

now my Blazer does the same thing

[iroc2nv]

Get the ABS module replced and it will be fixed. I just had to replace mine. RoadRunner already gave you the fix. It won't cost you $1000 , mine i got from a car lot used and it only cost me $150.

[corn]

I took out the cluster & pulled the ABS bulb on my '96. Its not the correct way, but I dont have to look at it anymore.

[Jonny_00]

i have a 00 2.2 s10 and mine came on when i put 205/70/15s in the front and 225/75/15s in the rear. that day. now i have the same front tires but 215/70/15s in the rear and they are still on. i dk what it is i just ignore them lol

[RustyButTrusty]

Quote: Originally Posted by Jonny_00

i have a 00 2.2 s10 and mine came on when i put 205/70/15s in the front and 225/75/15s in the rear. that day. now i have the same front tires but 215/70/15s in the rear and they are still on. i dk what it is i just ignore them lol

In your case this would probably be because your front and rear wheel speed sensors are getting different readings from the different size tires - your fronts will rotate ~791 times per mile, whereas the rears will only rotate ~736 times per mile.

[St.Dan]

where is the rear wheel speed sencer located

[alvisoroadsters]

back of the tranny. yeah i JUST got the same problem, need to get scanned. I was hauling an engine block and it went off, it'll stay off some of the time and flickers when i turn. i think it could just have a short to ground.

[S10dude]

yup , back of the transmisson

[Kampz69]

my 99 did the same thing mentioned, the ABS would activate at just under 10mph, slippery or not. i yanked the fuse and its fine, but i have the ABS light on all the time. whats weird to me however, is that the ABS light will turnoff sometimes and the parking brake light will light up for a split second...this only happens when i come to a stop at a light or something. when i start driving again, ABS light comes back on. i need to replace my drivers side wheel bearing, hopefully thats whats causing the issue.

[Rhimmel]

If the lights are on, in a lot of cases the ABS will go off line and a code will be stored. A lot of scanners will show ABS codes. Keep in mind that in some areas that have inspections, a nonfunctional factory safety mechanism can cause an automatic failure of said inspection.

[runn1up2001]

i have a 01 s10 that i just did a sas on. i am still running the s10 hubs with the straight axle. drove it for about a month no prom. had 4:10 gears put in the rear to match the front last week and ever since the abs and p/b come on and off as they please. sometimes they come on when i start the truck sometimes after iv been driving for a while sometimes not at all. any help please??

[runn1up2001]

ok had my truck scanned and C0238 code was stored which is wheel speed mismatch. my wheels are the same size so im wondering do you have to recalibrate the ECBM or somethig after changing gears?

[whitemike24]

my lights came on aswell and i noticed the vacume lines where broke i replaced the on to the abs box but i don't now where the other goes.

could some one look at there's and see if there's is connected? if so where does the other one go

[tigers2007]

Check your ABS ground! I was ready to pull the ABS brake unit and send it out for that $100 repair service when I found a thread that advised me to check the dedicated ground wire. It is a 12 or 10 gauge black wire that is easily found if you remove the air filter box and the wire bolts to the radiator support. I cleaned it up good and applied dielectric grease. That worked for about 2 months and it came back! The ABS light kept coming on after every bump in the road after I cleared it.

I just re-repaired it yesterday by cutting about 3 inches of wire off, ***soldering*** a eyelet terminal and using a new self tapping metal screw into the radiator support. I also wired a 10 gauge ground wire that goes directly to the battery to the same self tapping screw. I've put about 100 miles on and it has fixed the problem once again also driving on rough terrain all without fail.

Make sure you use dielectric grease to fight corrosion. The original wire location is in an area that was bombared with water. I relocated it to an offset and higher location on the radiator support. Remember to always ALWAYS solder and double wall heat shrink the wiring whether it is located inside or outside to prevent corrosion.

[tigers2007]

I forgot to add that the ABS ground wire was corroded even after I trimmed off a few inches. It turned black due to corrosion; this isn't uncommon. I cleaned the wire using my air powered die grinder with a small wire brush wheel (you can used a wire brush instead and rub that and the wire against a hard surface). Doing this will clean off the black corrosion and allow you to crimp & solder the wire correctly. I use a small butane powered "crack torch" that I bought from Harbor Freight to solder thicker gauge wiring as it heats the metal up very fast. Don't forget to slip on the heat shrink prior to crimping on the connector!

[johnyr169]

my lines are all dryed up and cracked and yes i do hear them sucking..will replace them sometime this week....will post the results when i do this..!

[tommyboys10]

I could use some help on this, my front PS wheel cut the wire to my sensor and I soldered it back, I check the voltage in AC and it reads anywhere from 0.5 to 1.2 volts depending on how fast I spin the wheel. My abs light turns on...off then back on and stays on without moving, could something got burnt up when my wheel cut the sensor?

[Marv1n]

Ok one way to test if it's your wheel speed sensors is to safely lift the truck off the ground or lift the front at one time and then the back at one time so that the wheels are off the ground. Then turn the ignition On (engine off) and then spin a tire as fast as you can, if your abs light (on the dash) comes on when you do this then that sensor, for that wheel, is good. Then turn the ignition off then back on to reset the abs light and move to a different wheel. If you do this and the abs light does NOT come on then it may be the wheel speed sensor and you might want to check the wiring or do more tests for that sensor. This may or may not work depending on the year of the vehicle or abs system but it will work on most typical abs systems and it doesn't cost anything to do just about 30 minutes of your time. also the abs errors are not readable on the ODB ll code readers.

[n8rsk8r]

I have a 99' standard cab 2.2L and switched brakes in back from drum to disc. The light has been on since then.

[RangerS10]

Heh, Last visit in 2007.

I have an 01 with the same issue. Right now I am going through all the steps. I've replaced Both wheel bearing and sensors. and checked them today by lifting the front end off the ground and measuring each WSS (Wheel speed sensor) with a mulitmeter in the AC Setting and it's within spec (180-250 mVac).

I am going to refer you to a website that helped me out
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php

Click on the wizard (http://www.modulemaster.com/en/wizard/index.php)
and when asked which module you have, choose "Kelsey Hayes 325" thats the model I have and it will guide you through what could be wrong.

What's great is that you can send the module to them and if it checks out okay, they will send it back for only cost of shipping. If something is wrong, they will rebuild it for around $120 and have a 2 day turn around.

[n8rsk8r]

/\ that is bad ass. I don't think it is a bleeding issue. I am taking it back to the place I had the breaks bled in. They said they will hook it up to the computer to see what is wrong. I will report back once I have done this.

[Bad-S10]

i got a 2000 s10 with the same issue besides the light bring on the flicker like a night club is going in there im actually gonna get e video up in here so yall can see it and let me know....