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2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

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Old 01-09-2010, 03:02 PM   #1
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2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Is there a way to remove the oil pan with having to pull the engine completely out, tips ideas anyone?

I already have the head pulled off it and had it reworked, the valve cover was extremely nasty with sludge so I figure I might better consider pulling the oil pan and cleaning it up and check on the oil pump as well.

Id like to get this done before i start reassembling the head and rest of engine

I am doing this by self and do not have an engine hoist to pull it out with.
Old 01-09-2010, 08:46 PM   #2
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

I believe you can do it by lifting the engine up some but not out, of course this requires a hoist.
Old 01-12-2010, 01:35 PM   #3
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

On my '97 I removed the two motor mount bolts and then jacked up the engine a few inches and put wood blocks between the motor mount and the frame to hold it up. Then I dropped the pan. You can unbolt the oil pump at that point and then pull it and the pan out. I had the trans out at the same time though but I don't think that's necessary. Starter had to come off too. FWIW.
Old 01-20-2010, 11:50 AM   #4
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Ended up completely pulling engine out
Old 03-30-2011, 09:24 PM   #5
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

I think this procedure is best with the tranny removed. I did my oil pan as long as I had the NV1500 trans out of my 2.2 '98 to replace a slave unit, as the pan was leaking a little. With the trans removed, the starter does not need to be totally removed just unbolted and slid to the side. Engine mounts do not need to be removed either. Unbolt the starter and slide it out of the way, remove the pan bolts. I used an 3/8" drive with extensions, universal, and a 10mm socket. In the spot where the starter has been moved out of the way. Use a bottle jack or barn jack to jack up the motor as high as it will go without damaging anything. I did not remove the braces either. One 15mm bolt holds the oil pump. This needs to be removed. Drop the oil pump, cock it to the side and pull it out. You can then remove the oil pan. This looks impossible to be done with the tranny still hooked up. Hope this helps future readers.
Old 03-30-2011, 10:07 PM   #6
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

So what your saying is that the oil pump is accessible without removing the pan or did you mean oil filter? I dropped my pan in my 2001 2.2 about a month ago. Me and a buddy did it without having to pull the motor, however the trans was pulled. I really wanted to replace the oil pump in it, but my buddy told me that it wouldnt do no good for my low oil pressure readings, that the actual problem was not the pump but instead on the camshaft gear that drives the pump? Does any of this make sense to anyone, or was he just blowing smoke up my arse? I would have so loved to replace that and need to know if i need to dump a buddy?
Old 03-31-2011, 10:23 PM   #7
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

So is the general consensus that the trans has to be pulled?
Old 04-01-2011, 05:37 PM   #8
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by code_red63366
So what your saying is that the oil pump is accessible without removing the pan or did you mean oil filter? I dropped my pan in my 2001 2.2 about a month ago. Me and a buddy did it without having to pull the motor, however the trans was pulled. I really wanted to replace the oil pump in it, but my buddy told me that it wouldnt do no good for my low oil pressure readings, that the actual problem was not the pump but instead on the camshaft gear that drives the pump? Does any of this make sense to anyone, or was he just blowing smoke up my arse? I would have so loved to replace that and need to know if i need to dump a buddy?
Your buddy was right.
There are two oil pumps for these trucks: high volume and low volume.
The oil pressure "reading" from the gauge shouldn't let you make enenimes of your budds.....their just basic estimates......
Old 04-01-2011, 05:40 PM   #9
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by wrknprogress
So is the general consensus that the trans has to be pulled?

YES:
I have a 1998 LS Rwd 2.2l LN2 4cyl.

To replace the oil pan gasket, I had to:

1.)Remove the starter----you don't just push it to the side
2.) Remove the drive shaft
3.) Remove the transmission
4.) Remove the Flex plate
5.) Remove Left motor mount bolt and jack up motor....way up.....don't break the heater hose connections to the heater core.
6.) Unbold the oil pump----twist to the side
7.) Pull the oil pan from under the twisted oil pump...

GGGGeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!! !!

Last edited by ratrace2; 04-01-2011 at 05:43 PM. Reason: left out the motor mount bolt removal
Old 04-01-2011, 06:02 PM   #10
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by Hogleg
Is there a way to remove the oil pan with having to pull the engine completely out, tips ideas anyone?

I already have the head pulled off it and had it reworked, the valve cover was extremely nasty with sludge so I figure I might better consider pulling the oil pan and cleaning it up and check on the oil pump as well.

Id like to get this done before i start reassembling the head and rest of engine

I am doing this by self and do not have an engine hoist to pull it out with.
If you have to do it, have to, have to do it..............

1.) unbolt the trans......and flex plate to the converter..take off starter
2.) unbolt the motor mounts
3.) unbolt the oil pump
4.) unbolt the oil pan and twist it out.................

FIRST:
a) Clean well and CLean, Clean, Clean, CLean....no oil residue
b) clean the motor edge with laquer thinner and razor blade.....
c) I cleaned my oil pan rim with a Wire Brush attached to a buffer........
"it cuts grooves into the metal and lets the RTV Key to the surface"

NEXT:
spray the oil pan rim with Permatex (99GA) "High Tack spray-a-seal gasket" and stick the cork gasket to the pan.

THEN:
I put a ton of Permatex Ultra-Copper on the back end of the gasket
where the rubber and cork gaskets meet.....

THEN: run a small bead of Ultra-Copper on the bottom "outer edge" of the motor.

THEN:
Install the oil pan and torgue the pan bolts hand tight......
let sit for 48 hours and re-torgue.......

THEN: re-torgue after a couple of heat cool cycles of the motor.....

PERFECT...............
Old 04-01-2011, 07:48 PM   #11
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by ratrace2
Your buddy was right.
There are two oil pumps for these trucks: high volume and low volume.
The oil pressure "reading" from the gauge shouldn't let you make enenimes of your budds.....their just basic estimates......

Thanks Rat!
Old 04-01-2011, 07:55 PM   #12
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by wrknprogress
So is the general consensus that the trans has to be pulled?

Trans without motor removed= Yes,,,,,, You might also have to break the motor mounts lose and jack the motor up a bit. This is what I did to make it easier, however I was told it can be done without doing that, just alot harder to fish the oil pan out from on top of the crossover.
or option B= remove the motor itself.
Old 04-01-2011, 10:15 PM   #13
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

what a pain in the butt. sounds like a good enough excuse to sfbd it..
Old 04-02-2011, 08:09 AM   #14
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by wrknprogress
what a pain in the butt. sounds like a good enough excuse to sfbd it..
It is a major pain in the A$$.
But, if you have a bad oil leak, and you don't like oilly leaky trucks, then
you got'ta do it.....

what does sfbd mean?????
Old 04-02-2011, 09:37 AM   #15
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

stock floor body drop
Old 04-02-2011, 01:38 PM   #16
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by ratrace2
It is a major pain in the A$$.
But, if you have a bad oil leak, and you don't like oilly leaky trucks, then
you got'ta do it.....

what does sfbd mean?????
It's not leaking all that bad but I gotta change the starter tomorrow so I figured that would be a good time to change the oil pan gasket.
Old 04-02-2011, 05:59 PM   #17
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by wrknprogress
It's not leaking all that bad but I gotta change the starter tomorrow so I figured that would be a good time to change the oil pan gasket.
Don't do it:

Starter:
is a 30 minutes job with 20 minutes for getting the tools and jacking up the truck.

Oil Pan Gasket:
is a 12 hour job removing all the stuff ( see above)....

I would change the oil pan gasket if I was changing the motor; I would change the oil if I was changing the starter..............Get it!!!!
Old 04-02-2011, 06:00 PM   #18
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by S10dude
stock floor body drop
SFBD: I need a picture
Old 04-03-2011, 12:37 AM   #19
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Check out the bodydroppin it section on here.
Old 07-25-2011, 08:19 PM   #20
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Picked up a 2000 2.2 Clean. 116,000 miles. Needs trans repaired and has oil pan leak. Have yet to determine what I plan on doing with the motor because have not done a compresion Check. Are these motors notorious for pan leaks? Race track, Following your explanation I will probably try it that way first. With the pan gasket replacement am I taking it for granted the rear main gasket is included in replacement? Was the origianl gaskets Cork or rubber? Thanks for taking the time!
Old 07-26-2011, 08:44 AM   #21
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by tim72
Picked up a 2000 2.2 Clean. 116,000 miles. Needs trans repaired and has oil pan leak. Have yet to determine what I plan on doing with the motor because have not done a compresion Check. Are these motors notorious for pan leaks? Race track, Following your explanation I will probably try it that way first. With the pan gasket replacement am I taking it for granted the rear main gasket is included in replacement? Was the origianl gaskets Cork or rubber? Thanks for taking the time!
Where should I start???

No, oil pan gasket and main seal are seperate, but who cares it's not more that $20.00 for both..

Get a good gasket from NAPA--cork--and spray red permatex on it. Stick it to the pan--you need it to stay put. On the back side of the oil pan I used Permatex RTA Copper.........


Uh, I replaced the pan gasket only--main seal was good--got the oil pan to seal up real nice, no more leaking oil on the driveway.

Second, it was stupid of me to pull the trans and not replace the main seal. It was alot of work to get at that oil pan gasket. Dumb luck the main didn't leak a little with 230,000 miles on the truck.

If you are going to pull the transmission then you don't have to pull the motor, but you still have to jack up the motor--take out one motor mount bolt--drop the pan; and reach inside and unbolt the oil pump; wiggle it out; then work the oil pan back out between the crossmember and the engine block.

Last edited by ratrace2; 07-26-2011 at 08:48 AM. Reason: typo
Old 08-26-2011, 12:55 PM   #22
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

RatRace - Ended up pulling trans and motor. what I thought was big deal was not as bad as I thought except for all the elctronic wires. Pan is off. 2 questions for you! your steps to put the oil pan back on with rear main seal? Should I replace the oil pump? One more thing. The oil pan had no cork gasket on it when removed. It was bedded with black atv silcon and sepeate rear main seal. No cork gasket from the factory seems a little weird? Maybe somebody had been in this motor before? The gasket kit I just bought Felpro has cork gasket and rubber rear main. Would this be considered factory stock gaskets?
Old 08-26-2011, 01:53 PM   #23
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

I'd use and have only used the rubber end and RTV grey.from the factory they used black RTV and a rubber end.cork will leak!
Old 08-26-2011, 08:21 PM   #24
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Got ya! Thanks!
Old 08-26-2011, 11:10 PM   #25
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by tim72
RatRace - Ended up pulling trans and motor. what I thought was big deal was not as bad as I thought except for all the elctronic wires. Pan is off. 2 questions for you! your steps to put the oil pan back on with rear main seal? Should I replace the oil pump? One more thing. The oil pan had no cork gasket on it when removed. It was bedded with black atv silcon and sepeate rear main seal. No cork gasket from the factory seems a little weird? Maybe somebody had been in this motor before? The gasket kit I just bought Felpro has cork gasket and rubber rear main. Would this be considered factory stock gaskets?
Ya know, I have pulled apart motors (2.2's) with no cork gasket and found only RTV as a gasket. Would this be condidered "factory stock"? I might be in the near future since most assembly process are going to go with what is less "specialized"; and, RTV is less specialzed compared to a specific FelPro gasket set.
Ya know what I mean!!

I, personally, like the idea of not having to buy a gasket set if I can just smear around a little RTV. In the cases where I found only RTV the motor looked good and was not leaking oil.
I, on the other hand, always use FelPro cork gaskets for oil pans. Why?
I don't have a good reason other than it has always worked for me. And, maybe,--sometimes--the oil pan is a little warped and not so straigt sheet metal and is a little flexable so I like the seal/spacer properties that the cork gives me. It, cork, has good gap filling properties, especially for the cheap GM "stamped" oil pans made out of sheet metal. That is the only reason I have found, or could give you to use cork or rubber as a gasket. Gaskets have good gap filling properties in areas where the two parts are not so precise.
I understand that you like to do things the right way but who cares if it is factory or not. If it works it's right, in this case.
Old 08-27-2011, 08:56 AM   #26
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

As far as the Oil Pump goes, change it if it's bad.
Look inside and see if the two gears are worn, scored, or just wavy on surface of the gears. If the gears are smooth and not flaking then keep it, it's good.
Old 08-30-2011, 09:12 PM   #27
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Thanks for the advice! I though about it 100 times and will go with the felpro set. Getting ready to put the pan on tommorow. Doing a little cleaning,Sandblasting ,painting , degunking etc . Ended up changing the oil pump. the original was ok but for $50 felt it was cheap insurance. Motor mounts is another subject. Never seen a worse design. $100 for new motor mounts? Paid less for all Steel for my Olds 455. Sorry for so many questions. Just want to make sure it is done right! Thanks for your help!
Old 09-01-2011, 06:09 PM   #28
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by tim72
Thanks for the advice! I though about it 100 times and will go with the felpro set. Getting ready to put the pan on tommorow. Doing a little cleaning,Sandblasting ,painting , degunking etc . Ended up changing the oil pump. the original was ok but for $50 felt it was cheap insurance. Motor mounts is another subject. Never seen a worse design. $100 for new motor mounts? Paid less for all Steel for my Olds 455. Sorry for so many questions. Just want to make sure it is done right! Thanks for your help!
happy to help.............
Old 09-02-2011, 02:17 PM   #29
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Bad news or operator error but the cork Felpro gasket kit did not work out for me. Tried 3 different sets of gaskets and hand tightened and torqued the next morning. the Gaskets kept pushing out at the front corner. Went to the dealer this morning , picked up there sealant and rear main pan seal. Noticed a big difference in black ATV and there sealant. Also the rear pan seal was stouter in my opinion then the Felpro. Let you know if there are any leaks!
Old 09-03-2011, 06:59 PM   #30
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by tim72
Bad news or operator error but the cork Felpro gasket kit did not work out for me. Tried 3 different sets of gaskets and hand tightened and torqued the next morning.
the Gaskets kept pushing out at the front corner.

Went to the dealer this morning , picked up there sealant and rear main pan seal. Noticed a big difference in black ATV and there sealant. Also the rear pan seal was stouter in my opinion then the Felpro. Let you know if there are any leaks!
Really!!!. What the heck???
I don't know buddy. I did it. It was just fine with the way that I described.
I glued the gasket with permatex to the pan and then bolted it up.
It stuck.

MAYBE: you have to keep it from sliding out.
Ya know what I mean??
Old 09-04-2011, 12:44 PM   #31
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

No problem! Not any good unless it is done 4 times <G> May have been the pan itself being warped. I did everything possible. Suprised they did not use Cork from the factory. The adhesive they sell for it at the dealer is the real deal. If not I will find out in a hurry!
Old 10-02-2013, 07:28 PM   #32
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

For anyone who stumbles across this...it's impossible to do this without removing the transmission unless you want the pan to still leak when you put everything back together.
Old 11-07-2013, 02:59 PM   #33
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

how do i remove a oil pan gasket from a 2002 chevy blazer?
Old 11-08-2013, 05:01 PM   #34
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Re: 2000 S10 2.2 Oil Pan removal

Quote: Originally Posted by desmondb
how do i remove a oil pan gasket from a 2002 chevy blazer?
Take it to a shop.
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