ok I give up. '98 Blazer won't run PLEASE READ!

[GURU]

I picked this thing up CHEAP. I have replaced the PCM, fuel pump, upgraded to the newer style injector setup. I have fire to the plugs, and voltage to the injectors. The damn the starts occasionally, but then dies immediately- after running about a second or two.

Is there something I am missing here?

[GURU]

Surely one of you guys knows something about this. LOL

[ls1s10onair]

theres a lot of things u need to check... im trusting you that you have spark... is the fuel pump turning on? there is a fuel tap (i believe) right behind the lower intake manifold, where the lines connect (im not 100% on that, but thats how the vortec 350's are) let me know if you have fuel pressure... if you dont, and the pump is new... its prob. a fuse, fuel pump relay, or the fuel pump ground at the back of the frame

[usmc_noma]

i was thinking the same. fuel pump. you must though since it does start occassionally. who knows, but good luck.

[97 Jimmy S/C]

Is your TPS plugged in and no flat spots in the resistor, did this on my own one day!

[tmlopez]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 Jimmy S/C

Is your TPS plugged in and no flat spots in the resistor, did this on my own one day!

What it the TPS?

[laydout97]

Throttle Position Sensor(tps)

[♠ M®. ßlυε ♠]

Is the security light flashing?

[badjuju342]

Quote: Originally Posted by Mr Blue

Is the security light flashing?

If the new PCM is not programmed for the correct passlock II , it will start and run for a second then die.

[♠ M®. ßlυε ♠]

[♠ M®. ßlυε ♠]

Give this a try.

http://www.cardone.com/english/club/...s/pt101-77.asp

[orangesonoma]

passlock issue

[GURU]

The fuel pump has 60 psi when on at the schrader valve fitting. I checked it with a pressure gauge. A new Airtex pump has been installed.

I was thinking about the passlock problem I have read a few problems about it on here.

The thing will run smooth for about 1 or 2 seconds and then just die?

It will run longer if I dump gas down the TB.

I do have fire to the injectors while trying to start the engine. I verified that with a noid light.

Is there any way to just disable passlock without taking the PCM off and sending it somewhere?

[GURU]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 Jimmy S/C

Is your TPS plugged in and no flat spots in the resistor, did this on my own one day!

yes, TPS is plugged in. i don't know about flat spots though... I'll check that tomorrow.

[orangesonoma]

why did you replace the pcm?

[badjuju342]

You might be able to buy a tuning program like they offer for LS1 conversions like HPTuners, LS1Edit or EFILive. These are NOT cheap ( about 500.00 or more) and you'll need a decent laptop for the program to run. . You can do all kinds of thing besides disabling passlock but not really cost effective for just that. There's no way that you can wire around the passlock I know of. I'm sure a dealer could reprogram your PCM for less than that.Hate to be a bummer here.

[Yogi]

Quote: Originally Posted by GURU

The fuel pump has 60 psi when on at the schrader valve fitting. I checked it with a pressure gauge. A new Airtex pump has been installed.

I was thinking about the passlock problem I have read a few problems about it on here.

The thing will run smooth for about 1 or 2 seconds and then just die?

It will run longer if I dump gas down the TB.

I do have fire to the injectors while trying to start the engine. I verified that with a noid light.

Is there any way to just disable passlock without taking the PCM off and sending it somewhere?

Why disable passlock or send off the pcm? Just go through the security relearn process noted above and 30 minutes later it's fixed!

[GURU]

Quote: Originally Posted by orangesonoma

why did you replace the pcm?

That is the suggestion I received from my know it all boss.
The guy I bought the truck from jumped off a dead F250 and then he said the truck wouldn't start again after he parked it 5 minutes later. The tumbler switch was screwed up which is one of the things that I replaced but i think that i need to buy a different one because I don't remember seeing the passlock chip in the cheapy orielly's replacement.

I have verified fire to the injectors while cranking with a noid light. That is why i am thinking the problem lies elsewhere.
I'd like to shoot it at this point.

[ExtCab96S_Dime]

I'd say Passlock too. No point in really trying anything else until you give that a shot IMO.

[eric s]

passlock shuts the engine off a second or two after it starts, it doesnt verify the r code untill the key is relesed back to the run spot. try the relearn listed above. there is a way to wire around the passlock system, and its rather easy. i dont know if it will help in your case, but it works to bypass it for remote starts and is bullet proof once done right.

if you look at your ign switch harness, you will have 3 small gauge wires, one black, one white, and one yellow. the yellow is your r code wire, the black is ground, and idk what the white is lol. cut the r code and ground wire and strip both ends. then using a quality DVOM, measure the resistance on the cylinder side of both wires. then take that number to radioshack, get a 1/4 watt resistor thats at least 10% of the reading you got, and solder it between the two wires you cut on the bcm side, heat shrink and go. if your off more than 10% it will still work, you will just have to relearn it again.

depending on what mood i was in, somedays i would throw any resistor in there and relearn it will i was wiring the rest of the remote start up.

Quote:

I don't remember seeing the passlock chip in the cheapy orielly's replacement.

you wont, its internal in the cylinder.

do you have a check engine light on?

edit: when reading the resistance of the cylinder, trun the ign switch to the run position, set the e-brake and put the shifter in drive, then hook you dvom to the key side of the ground and r code wires, then turn the ign over to start, and relese. the resistance should stay the same for crank and run,thats the resistance your looking for!

[Yogi]

Quote: Originally Posted by eric s

passlock shuts the engine off a second or two after it starts, it doesnt verify the r code untill the key is relesed back to the run spot. try the relearn listed above. there is a way to wire around the passlock system, and its rather easy. i dont know if it will help in your case, but it works to bypass it for remote starts and is bullet proof once done right.

if you look at your ign switch harness, you will have 3 small gauge wires, one black, one white, and one yellow. the yellow is your r code wire, the black is ground, and idk what the white is lol. cut the r code and ground wire and strip both ends. then using a quality DVOM, measure the resistance on the cylinder side of both wires. then take that number to radioshack, get a 1/4 watt resistor thats at least 10% of the reading you got, and solder it between the two wires you cut on the bcm side, heat shrink and go. if your off more than 10% it will still work, you will just have to relearn it again.

depending on what mood i was in, somedays i would throw any resistor in there and relearn it will i was wiring the rest of the remote start up.



you wont, its internal in the cylinder.

do you have a check engine light on?

edit: when reading the resistance of the cylinder, trun the ign switch to the run position, set the e-brake and put the shifter in drive, then hook you dvom to the key side of the ground and r code wires, then turn the ign over to start, and relese. the resistance should stay the same for crank and run,thats the resistance your looking for!

Interesting suggestion. However, didn't you mean to say within 10% of the reading you got? In other words, take the reading and buy a resistor that is +/- 10% of the reading?

Edit: I just realized that this won't work because he changed the PCM, so the new PCM doesn't know the resistance of the old lock cylinder anyway.

[eric s]

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

Interesting suggestion. However, didn't you mean to say within 10% of the reading you got? In other words, take the reading and buy a resistor that is +/- 10% of the reading?

Edit: I just realized that this won't work because he changed the PCM, so the new PCM doesn't know the resistance of the old lock cylinder anyway.

yeah, within 10% of the reading you got from the key cylinder. GM gives the puter 10% for cylinder wear and age. sorry for that typo.

the relearn will work on the pcm, as will this bypass. you can literialy put damn near any resistor in those wires and it will work, but its a safer bet to stay close to the original numbers. during the relearn you are teaching the pcm the new resistance of the key cylinder, or in this case the resistor itself.

just be sure to have a fully charged battery, as you will be leaving the key on up to 30 minutes. i have heard (but not experianced) of problems with trying the relearn will the car is being charged with a shop charger.

[GURU]

Thanks for the advice guys!

I have found a source that will remove the passlock for $50. Should I just do this to avoid any future problems?

[eric s]

Quote: Originally Posted by GURU

Thanks for the advice guys!

I have found a source that will remove the passlock for $50. Should I just do this to avoid any future problems?

i would, its not going to stop a thief anyway, at best slow him down a bit. then again, that 10 minutes might be the difference in you walking out the door with a shotty in hand and walking out the door to an empty driveway.

your call in the end, but imho, a good pageback alarm system is worth more that a passlock2 system anyday of the week

[Yogi]

Any progress?

[GURU]

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

Any progress?

I went to the local stealership (Friendly Chevrolet) and asked them if the would turn it off and they said it couldn't be done. Then I was told by their technician that "even if we could do, we wouldn't do it here". The service at that dealership is VERY sub-par. The worst customer service in past experiences I have ever seen. I pretty much knew what the answer would have been, but I just spent $500 on parts the same day so I thought I would ask. LOL.
So i told the derelict service writer that I would just send it up north and get it done. I should be getting it back no later than the end of next week. I'll post the results up then.

[Yogi]

I hope that your luck takes a turn for the better!

[GURU]

Well I FINALLY got the computer back from the guy as of last tuesday. It only took him 3 weeks to get it back to me .
He removed/turned off Passlock, adjusted the air/fuel ratio, and deleted the rear 02 sensor.
$50 for the work and $12.50 for shipping each way.
Not too bad IMHO for $75.
Truck runs fine now.

[Yogi]

That's really reasonable - only 50 bucks! Where did you send it?

[GURU]

I sent it to:
http://www.autocomputertech.com/

You can't just send it to this guy and expect him to fix it and send it back in a timely manner. After he receives it, you'll have to call the goofy cocksucker and tell him what you want done, then you'll have to call him 2 or 3 times to remind him to send it to you .
There is an area on his website that will allow you to select what mods you want.

[Yogi]

Glad that it finally worked out for you. Thanks for the info!