Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose

red454 · 11-23-2007, 04:16 PM

I have a 97 Blazer - 4WD with 125K miles.

There is a leak that appears to be coming from the remote oil filter hose. It looks a bit tight under there - is this hose a common leak point, and is it a pain to change?

I want to get an idea of what I am getting into...

Sawdoffhonky · 11-24-2007, 04:00 PM

mine is leaking also on my 96, how do we do what we need to do?

00s104.3 · 11-24-2007, 04:48 PM

I've got the same problem on my '89 blazer. (I don't know if it's the same on 2nd gens) From what I've read it's a pain in the ass to change the lines. Some say you have to drop the transfer case to snake the lines past and others say you need to unbolt the driver's side motor mount and jack the motor up to get the lines on. I'm still debating on what I want to do with mine.

red454 · 11-24-2007, 06:38 PM

Well, I may just have to get under there and take a closer look... You can't see squat from above.

I'll report what I find out...

Mr Bravada · 11-27-2007, 03:49 AM

yea, its pretty ghey on the 1st gens, easier with the engine out....

2nd gens, i have heard its easier... a guy in our club said it was a snap... but you know how that is.... always harder when you do it

red454 · 11-27-2007, 07:11 PM

Ok - I got under the front end and removed the plastic cover for better access. Then I pressure washed the area to clean it up.

I then dried off the hoses and started the engine. Then I could see where the leaks were coming from. First of all, there are two sets of hoses. One set takes the oil from the engine to the filter and the other set goes from the filter base to the radiator (oil cooler). Of course, both sets leak right at the crimp, so they have to be replaced.

The set that goes to the radiator does not look too bad to change, but the other set looks like a pain. I have not tried yet, but it looks like it will be tough to get the end that attaches to the engine through the small space that passes by the transfer case.

In the attached pic you can see both sets. The set on the left goes to the engine and the set to the right goes up to the radiator.

I hope I don't have to take the driver side motor mount loose to get the engine up for clearance...

epiphaknee · 12-14-2007, 09:27 PM

There is a ton of information on changing these hoses on this forum. This is a VERY common problem with S-10's and Sonoma's.

This is for a 1995, 4.3L W CPI engine. Your experience may vary but probably not too much! LOL This describes R&R of the short hose.

You are also correct that one set of hoses goes from the remote oil filter unit to the side of the radiator (oil cooler) - the short hose; and another set of hoses goes from the remote oil filter to the transmission (transmission cooler) - the long hose.

The short hose is very easy to R&R. Loosen the 13mm bolt that holds the hose manifold into the remote filter unit. Remove the air filter unit to gain easy access to the side of the radiator (driver's side). Loosen the two nuts, they are either 20mm or 21 mm as I recall on the radiator holding the hoses.

The trick is to loosen and in some cases remove the remote oil filter unit from its studs. These are also 13 mm and there are three nuts. Have a drain pan ready to catch the oil coming out of the hoses, generally at the manifold and dripping from the oil filter. Drain from the bottom first (e.g. the manifold bolt area) and the mess will be much less up above.

When you loosen the upper radiator connectors make sure that the O-ring comes out with the hose. Also make sure to ALWAYS replace both of these O-rings with the new hose (NAPA hoses have new O-rings and GM hoses don't). If you can't find the O-ring reach into the radiator hole with your little finger and fish these O-rings out.

The lower hose will either have Oil Seals (if GMC) or none (if NAPA). They look like the composite washer on the drain plug, but larger. NAPA has created their own built-in oil seal.

Now the old hose is out and you can take a breather. It is easiest to route the new hose from the bottom. Having loosened the mounting bracken for the remote oil unit you have lots of wiggle room. The new hoses fit just above this unit above the metal divider. Route the hoses then finger tighten all bolts. The manifold bolt, the three mounting bolts for the remote unit and the large nuts into the radiator (some use teflon tape on these upper threads - it's your call). If you used GM parts you must remember the new Oil Seals on the lower manifold too.

Now tighten everything down, start engine up and let her warm up and check for leaks. Thereafter, put the air filter unit back on and you are good to go (you will throw a code with the air filter unit off so clear that too).

After a full tank of gas, look for leaks again. You want to become proficient at this repair because you will get plenty of practice!!

The NAPA hoses are much cheaper than GM, even if you buy from gmpartsdirect.com Plus, NAPA hoses ($29 and $49) come with new O-rings and the built-in manifold seal (versus the GM Oil Seals). But if you like GM make sure to have the O-rings (2) and Oil Seals (2).

fishindabay · 12-14-2007, 09:39 PM

you don't have to take out the motor mount, transfer case, diff, etc. i change these weekly at my dealer. to snake them through there you can put a prybar between a bolt on the front diff case and the engine, while you sneak the lines out towards the front. the bitch is getting the bolt off, you need a long ass extension and maybe a swivel socket.

guys in my dealer can do them in 25ish minutes, no joke.

00s104.3 · 12-14-2007, 10:20 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by fishindabay

you don't have to take out the motor mount, transfer case, diff, etc. i change these weekly at my dealer. to snake them through there you can put a prybar between a bolt on the front diff case and the engine, while you sneak the lines out towards the front. the bitch is getting the bolt off, you need a long ass extension and maybe a swivel socket.

guys in my dealer can do them in 25ish minutes, no joke.

Is that true for 1st gens as well? If so, thanks for giving me some hope.

95S10BLAZER4x4fp3 · 12-16-2007, 12:58 AM

I JUST did this on mine. The upper hose was way easy to change, take the old one out put the new one in, simple as that. The lower one that runs from filter to motor sucked. Luckily one of my friends has a rotary lift. I got my truck up, found a cross brace that conveniently ran between the two hard lines on the lower hose. Took the cross brace off, then i finally got the hose off, and couldn't snake it out from under the truck no matter what angle I tried. I took the bolt out of the driver side engine mount, jacked the motor up, and I was able to slide the hose right out. Was an extreme pain in the ass, but not the worst thing i've ever had to deal with.

soniccj7 · 12-18-2007, 01:59 PM

I did this a while back here are the part numbers I got. Also I was able to snake it past the motor after using a prybar to move the motor about an inch or two.

Napa Part numbers (Dorman)

823-2231 823-2230

When I called the dealer about factory lines they said it would just leak again and for them to do the work it would cost $300.00. Yeah no thanks...

Good Luck.

Ed

11-23-2007, 04:16 PM	#1
red454 Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 8 Location: Indy User is: OffLine	Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose I have a 97 Blazer - 4WD with 125K miles. There is a leak that appears to be coming from the remote oil filter hose. It looks a bit tight under there - is this hose a common leak point, and is it a pain to change? I want to get an idea of what I am getting into...
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-24-2007, 04:00 PM	#2
Sawdoffhonky Dispenser of Wrath Age: 25 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 16 Location: Burlington Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose mine is leaking also on my 96, how do we do what we need to do?
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-24-2007, 04:48 PM	#3
00s104.3 Ellismate FTW!! Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 767 Location: Nevada User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose I've got the same problem on my '89 blazer. (I don't know if it's the same on 2nd gens) From what I've read it's a pain in the ass to change the lines. Some say you have to drop the transfer case to snake the lines past and others say you need to unbolt the driver's side motor mount and jack the motor up to get the lines on. I'm still debating on what I want to do with mine.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-24-2007, 06:38 PM	#4
red454 Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 8 Location: Indy User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose Well, I may just have to get under there and take a closer look... You can't see squat from above. I'll report what I find out...
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-27-2007, 03:49 AM	#5
Mr Bravada graduated!!!! Age: 27 Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 1,045 Location: Anchorage Ak User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose yea, its pretty ghey on the 1st gens, easier with the engine out.... 2nd gens, i have heard its easier... a guy in our club said it was a snap... but you know how that is.... always harder when you do it
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-14-2007, 09:27 PM	#7
epiphaknee Registered User Age: 42 Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 152 Location: Medina, WA User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose There is a ton of information on changing these hoses on this forum. This is a VERY common problem with S-10's and Sonoma's. This is for a 1995, 4.3L W CPI engine. Your experience may vary but probably not too much! LOL This describes R&R of the short hose. You are also correct that one set of hoses goes from the remote oil filter unit to the side of the radiator (oil cooler) - the short hose; and another set of hoses goes from the remote oil filter to the transmission (transmission cooler) - the long hose. The short hose is very easy to R&R. Loosen the 13mm bolt that holds the hose manifold into the remote filter unit. Remove the air filter unit to gain easy access to the side of the radiator (driver's side). Loosen the two nuts, they are either 20mm or 21 mm as I recall on the radiator holding the hoses. The trick is to loosen and in some cases remove the remote oil filter unit from its studs. These are also 13 mm and there are three nuts. Have a drain pan ready to catch the oil coming out of the hoses, generally at the manifold and dripping from the oil filter. Drain from the bottom first (e.g. the manifold bolt area) and the mess will be much less up above. When you loosen the upper radiator connectors make sure that the O-ring comes out with the hose. Also make sure to ALWAYS replace both of these O-rings with the new hose (NAPA hoses have new O-rings and GM hoses don't). If you can't find the O-ring reach into the radiator hole with your little finger and fish these O-rings out. The lower hose will either have Oil Seals (if GMC) or none (if NAPA). They look like the composite washer on the drain plug, but larger. NAPA has created their own built-in oil seal. Now the old hose is out and you can take a breather. It is easiest to route the new hose from the bottom. Having loosened the mounting bracken for the remote oil unit you have lots of wiggle room. The new hoses fit just above this unit above the metal divider. Route the hoses then finger tighten all bolts. The manifold bolt, the three mounting bolts for the remote unit and the large nuts into the radiator (some use teflon tape on these upper threads - it's your call). If you used GM parts you must remember the new Oil Seals on the lower manifold too. Now tighten everything down, start engine up and let her warm up and check for leaks. Thereafter, put the air filter unit back on and you are good to go (you will throw a code with the air filter unit off so clear that too). After a full tank of gas, look for leaks again. You want to become proficient at this repair because you will get plenty of practice!! The NAPA hoses are much cheaper than GM, even if you buy from gmpartsdirect.com Plus, NAPA hoses ($29 and $49) come with new O-rings and the built-in manifold seal (versus the GM Oil Seals). But if you like GM make sure to have the O-rings (2) and Oil Seals (2).
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-14-2007, 09:39 PM	#8
fishindabay Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 646 Location: southold, NY User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose you don't have to take out the motor mount, transfer case, diff, etc. i change these weekly at my dealer. to snake them through there you can put a prybar between a bolt on the front diff case and the engine, while you sneak the lines out towards the front. the bitch is getting the bolt off, you need a long ass extension and maybe a swivel socket. guys in my dealer can do them in 25ish minutes, no joke.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-14-2007, 10:20 PM	#9
00s104.3 Ellismate FTW!! Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 767 Location: Nevada User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose Quote: Originally Posted by fishindabay you don't have to take out the motor mount, transfer case, diff, etc. i change these weekly at my dealer. to snake them through there you can put a prybar between a bolt on the front diff case and the engine, while you sneak the lines out towards the front. the bitch is getting the bolt off, you need a long ass extension and maybe a swivel socket. guys in my dealer can do them in 25ish minutes, no joke. Is that true for 1st gens as well? If so, thanks for giving me some hope.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-16-2007, 12:58 AM	#10
95S10BLAZER4x4fp3 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose I JUST did this on mine. The upper hose was way easy to change, take the old one out put the new one in, simple as that. The lower one that runs from filter to motor sucked. Luckily one of my friends has a rotary lift. I got my truck up, found a cross brace that conveniently ran between the two hard lines on the lower hose. Took the cross brace off, then i finally got the hose off, and couldn't snake it out from under the truck no matter what angle I tried. I took the bolt out of the driver side engine mount, jacked the motor up, and I was able to slide the hose right out. Was an extreme pain in the ass, but not the worst thing i've ever had to deal with.
	[Reply w/Quote]

12-18-2007, 01:59 PM	#11
soniccj7 Registered User Age: 37 Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 24 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Oil Leak - Remote Filter Hose I did this a while back here are the part numbers I got. Also I was able to snake it past the motor after using a prybar to move the motor about an inch or two. Napa Part numbers (Dorman) 823-2231 823-2230 When I called the dealer about factory lines they said it would just leak again and for them to do the work it would cost $300.00. Yeah no thanks... Good Luck. Ed
	[Reply w/Quote]