Blazer Questions.... Lowering, Roof Rack Removal, Etc.

[RC ALLOYS]

So, picked up a 2002 Blazer 4 door with 61K miles on it. Nice original vehicle that just needs some TLC. Juuuuuuust sold my S10 truck so now we have funds to put into the Blazer.

Going to drop 5 inches front and 5.500 to 6 inches rear. No worries there. However, I NEED to verify which notch I need from Suicide Doors. Thinking the one for the straight frame but can't get anwers from SD or anyone else.

Next, brake lines in rear need to be flipped. Would like pictures if at all possible. Again, thinking we just flip the lines so the "loop" goes towards the leafs instead of frame as they do now.

Next, roof racks. I removed mine today buuuuuuuuut am not diggin' the threaded inserts that stick up. Folks with removed racks, what did ya do? Do I have to grind the inserts flush with roof, weld holes shut, then bodywork/paint, etc. Also, for now can I just run them with NO bolts back in the holes or will it leak into the roof/headliner with rain?

Hoping some of the Blazer folks can lend their knowledge. NorCal SS has been a great help but hate to keep pestering him with my questions

[Daveman2]

Quote: Originally Posted by RC ALLOYS

So, picked up a 2002 Blazer 4 door with 61K miles on it. Nice original vehicle that just needs some TLC. Juuuuuuust sold my S10 truck so now we have funds to put into the Blazer.

Going to drop 5 inches front and 5.500 to 6 inches rear. No worries there. However, I NEED to verify which notch I need from Suicide Doors. Thinking the one for the straight frame but can't get anwers from SD or anyone else.

Next, brake lines in rear need to be flipped. Would like pictures if at all possible. Again, thinking we just flip the lines so the "loop" goes towards the leafs instead of frame as they do now.

Next, roof racks. I removed mine today buuuuuuuuut am not diggin' the threaded inserts that stick up. Folks with removed racks, what did ya do? Do I have to grind the inserts flush with roof, weld holes shut, then bodywork/paint, etc. Also, for now can I just run them with NO bolts back in the holes or will it leak into the roof/headliner with rain?

Hoping some of the Blazer folks can lend their knowledge. NorCal SS has been a great help but hate to keep pestering him with my questions

-I've pretty sure Blazers have the crooked frame, altho the 4 Door possibly probably different, My 2 Door needs the crooked frame one

- Removed my roofrack and just have the screws, but I painted them to match and then they don't really stand out so much, but generally they get shaved just like any other piece of bodywork, welding over it & doing the smoothing work

-What plans do you have for it?

[RC ALLOYS]

Yeah, was thinking I'll just paint the screws that held the rack on. OR, put some stainless button head screw in it.

Plans, just gonna slam it 5 front and 6 back. I've got a set of ZQ8 wheels (newest style) with 245/50-16 BFG G-Force KDWS tires. Had them on my truck so they are extra now and paid for. Probably will go to 17's in the SLP ZR1 style wheels, bolt on ones that don't need spacers. Just need to get it slammed now and drive it. Would like to shave the rear door handles, rear gate and the wiper arm stuff. However, that is waaaaaaaay down the road.

Right now, just needing some reliable info on the lowering of the rear. Suuuuuure hope someone has pics of what do to with the brake lines. Also, pic of a notch on a 4 door would help big time. Someone also said you had to notch the gas tank crossmember and the floor brace between the front seats, in the trans tunnel. This ALL has to happen in one weekend because I have to get it back on the road that quick.

[usmc_noma]

where's the pics?!?!

as far as what you're asking...
the4dr requires straight notch. for the front, spindles, springs, and new shocks should do you fine. you can do spindles and coilovers but it's a little bit more. for the rear, drop leafs, blocks, notch, shocks, possible setback plate and driveline alignment kit from jtr.

[K Dawg ONE]

^^werd!

[Calvin51]

Quote:

- Removed my roofrack and just have the screws, but I painted them to match and then they don't really stand out so much, but generally they get shaved just like any other piece of bodywork, welding over it & doing the smoothing work

Thinking of doing that to mine. Will shave them later but for the time being...do you have to seal the screws with something like a silicone sealer before putting them back in or does just putting them back with no sealer work?

[russell]

no you dont have to seal with the bolts in

[russell]

if your gonna go 5" in the front, your gonna have to run a small tire for it to clear. In the rear, get the straight notch from SD it says on the page that if its a 4 door you need the straight one. instead of buying leafs for the rear, just remove a leaf and throw some blocks on top of that. I did all that with 4" blocks on my 95, and I was rubbing my driveshaft on the crossmember. you'll also need to cut your bumpstops down on the front for susp. travel.
Roof rack will be fine without bolts in. pretty sure its closed up inside. wouldnt hurt to put a lil silicone, just a dab to be sure it won't leak. if you got any more questions, PM me.

[MARS2878]

For The Roofrack Either Put The Screws Back In Or Use Some Silicone In The Holes Until Your Ready To Do It Properly.
The Inserts Are Open, So They Will Leak When It Rains.
Remove The Headliner, Grind The The Top Of The Inserts Off & Pull Them Out From The Inside Of The Truck.
Weld Holes Shut, Smooth, Paint, Stand Back & Enjoy.

[RC ALLOYS]

Little update.

Threw a fresh centerlink and idler arm on Friday nite. Also tightened up the steering gear a weeeee bit. Ohhhhhh so much better.

Finally got all my parts in. Spindles, 3" springs and Nitro Drop Shocks up front from Belltech.

Rear, 3" drop leafs, 2" blocks, 3/8" set back plates and 4 degree pinion shims from Jags That Run. Got the notch from Suicide Doors as well.

Roof rack deal, I just put the screws back in for now with a dab of silicone on the threads just for insurance. So far so good and it looks muuuuuuuuuch better without that thing!

Pretty sure I'll be able to clear the tire/wheel package I've got. Kept the ZQ8's off my truck when I sold it. Tires are 245/50-16 BFG G-Force KDWS and I love 'em! Gonna try to do some before pics, in progress pics and of course afters. Ansty to get this over with and see the final product. Dang Blazers are a tad more expensive to lower I am learning than the trucks

Thanks to all that have assisted in my little project. Had LOTS of questions and unknowns when I jumped into this. Leave it to my pals on the S10 Forum to walk me through it. I am a notch virgin so it'll be a learning experience.

[purplepassion]

[redngreedy]

All this trouble? heh, should have just bagged it.

Should look good though man. I had my front bagged and my rear was 3 inch block and a leaf pulled. Looked good IMO, but rode like shit in the rear.

[RC ALLOYS]

Quote: Originally Posted by purplepassion

Hee hee, to be honest..... really don't have any pics. Will have plenty of them once I get started next weekend. Patience.......

[purplepassion]

nobody on here is willing to wait. go outside and take some pics NOW!

[joshuaT]

How did you tighten your steering? Is it in the Haynes manual?

[RC ALLOYS]

Quote: Originally Posted by joshuaT

How did you tighten your steering? Is it in the Haynes manual?

On top of the steering gear, there is a nut with a screw through it. Back the nut off juuuuuust a little bit. Nut requires a 5/8" wrench and you'll need a 3/16" allen. Turning the screw in tightens the gear, turning out loosens it. Do a LITTLE at a time. Don't wanna tighten TOO much or the steering wheel will not come back to center on it's own. Just do like a 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the screw while holding the nut with the wrench. Tighten everything back up and go for a test drive, see what ya think. I just took my tools with me and a piece of cardboard. Drove for a bit, pulled over to a parking lot (4 times) and tightened a little more, back out for a ride, etc.

Do some google searching for s10 steering gear adjustment. This one is a good write up: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.efee222/0

Meanwhile, did some more minor repairs to my Blazer. Put new door hinge pins and bushings on the driver's door. It was about to fall off! MUCH better now and should be a lot quieter on the highway. Also removed the ghey vent visors, that was fun and turned into a 2 hour project. Didn't get to lowering it due to Summit being silly. Having a lot of trouble with leaf springs. Part numbers are right (5964) buuuuuuut have different inspection/build dates. This apparently is a big deal because they are different! Bushings are different, one has pads between the springs, one doesn't, one is glossy black, one is satin black, axle pads are are thicker on one compared to the other one has less arch in it. So far I have sent back and received a total of 4 springs. NONE of which have matched. They are sending ANOTHER one out but I am holding the leafs I have as ransome. That way when the 5th spring shows up, I can see which it matches and finally have a good pair. SO, the lowering project is another week out!! Plan is to tackle it NEXT weekend. Whew, talk about driving me nuts. I am SO antsy to get this Blazer slammed. Going to try to get the front side windows tinted this week though. Shall post pics when everything gets started.


Should also be in the Haynes manual, not sure though. I've got a GM manual, it is in there. Good luck and be careful

[purplepassion]

Quote: Originally Posted by purplepassion

[joshuaT]

You know something is wrong when you quote yourself. Give him time man, he's working it as best he can.

[joshuaT]

Did you shave the roof rack? Are you going to shave your back wiper and door latch?

[RC ALLOYS]

Quote: Originally Posted by joshuaT

Did you shave the roof rack? Are you going to shave your back wiper and door latch?

Didn't shave the rack yet. All I did was remove it, and stick the bolts back in with plans to just paint them for now. Eventually will shave for real. Rear wiper, latch and all that stuff.... would love to ditch it. Don't mind the little latch button thing. The wiper and all it's crap though, UGLY. Main thing is to get it slammed and back on the road again.

Far as pictures........... sheeeeeeeeeesh, I'll post a pile of them once this project starts and is finished. Not much time to shoot pics, resize, upload to my server and post them. I've got a 2 month old son, full time job, wife, house to take care of, and a million other things Pictures I shall provide in time my friends....... appreciate the interest, and thanks for all the help and pointers.

[RC ALLOYS]

Alrighty, did the front end Friday nite. WAS going to just pull it all apart and finish Saturday morning. Well, it all came apart so easy and quick, just went ahead and completed it. Total time, 3 hours Front ends are much easier to deal with on Blazers than the trucks. Did spindles, 3" springs and Nitro Drop shocks annnnnnnnd new swaybar links. Appears to be pretty loooooooow, can't get a sodie can under the front crossmember.

Saturday will be the back half of the project. Notch install, 3" leafs, axle set back plates and 4 degree pinion shim annnnnnnnnd shocks. Should be able to get it done without any troubles in a day. I know I have to ditch the bumpstops on the frame. However, what about the "cup" piece on the axle housing? It is part of the spring pad on the housing but looks like it can be removed carefully. We shall see.

Sorry once again, no pics. Did shoot some basic befores of it with it's stock swirlies and sitting high. Will get some pictures of the notch install and whatever else might be of interest. Hope to get it done Saturday then Sunday head to my alignment guy. I've got my ZQ8's and 245/50's on it now. They appear to be a weeeee short for the drop. Too much gap but it'll be fine for now. Plan is to upgrade to 17" SLP ZR1 style, the Hyperblacks that don't need spacers. Gotta figure what tire to go for though.

Time for sleep.

[blazin20z]

heres what u should do to your tailgate ...overall this was sooooo simple ... just pull the backplate from the interior and you can put the filler plate on the backside and weld em in .... i have about 2 hours total in the total shaving and body work exc in the tailgate ....

NOW GET US SOME PICS !!! HAHA

[RC ALLOYS]

Ooooooooooooo, I like that idea. Would have never thought of working from the inside for the filler plates. Wish mine was a solid color...... it's pewter. Fearful of doing any body work and paint with that color! We'll see. Have to get it finished up and on the ground first!

Pics....... ok, believe me if ya want. I DID take pics this weekend as we made progress. However, camera is on the seat of the Blazer of which is at my Dad's Gonna see if I can walk him through dumping the pics off my camera and e-mailing them to me. We'll see how thaaaat goes.

[blazin20z]

haha ... i wish i had anything besides black ... its a painnnnnnne to get the bodywork done and get it right and make black look good .... ...thank god thats what i do ... haha .. good luck on the build

[sik4door]

yea weres the pictures .......i have a bolt in notch in the rear with leafs and blocks the hump in the rear of the frame is about 1 1/2 of the ground and the front is bagged the rear set up should be done soon

[joshuaT]

Nice look bro. I'm jealous. I want to see the doors shaved. Very nicely done!!! I wanna do it now. What kit did you buy and how much hacking did you have to do to the inside?

[sik4door]

Quote: Originally Posted by joshuaT

Nice look bro. I'm jealous. I want to see the doors shaved. Very nicely done!!! I wanna do it now. What kit did you buy and how much hacking did you have to do to the inside?

inside of what ?

[97WS10]

For my roof rack holes, I went to the local u-pull-our-parts and picked up a couple of later Cavalier 2 dr. door moldings and painted them to match and stuck em to the roof over the holes. It looks very clean.

[97WS10]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97WS10

For my roof rack holes, I went to the local u-pull-our-parts and picked up a couple of later Cavalier 2 dr. door moldings and painted them to match and stuck em to the roof over the holes. It looks very clean.

Here are some pics!!!

[russell]

that dosen't look bad /\/\

[usmc_noma]

no it doesn't.

[RC ALLOYS]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97WS10

Here are some pics!!!

Hmmmmmmmm, now that is pretty kewl! Neat idea.

[HRW718]

I have a '95 with thse horrible recessed sealed beam headlights....
and i want to know if i can put a newer grille and headlight assembly etc on it...
like 98-up!??!?!

[ZQ8 Blazer]

How many times are you gonna ask this?

[dragginit93]

sorry for askin but what are axle set back plates and why do u need them when lowering the blazer?

[ZQ8 Blazer]

They set the axle back 1/2" and pull the yolk out of the tranny some as lowering them pushes it in some.

[dragginit93]

so its not needed then

[ZQ8 Blazer]

I'd get it, how much of a drop are you wanting out back?

[dragginit93]

doin 4" blocks and removing a leaf

[ZQ8 Blazer]

Nope, don't do that. 4" blocks are POS

[dragginit93]

y please explain

[ZQ8 Blazer]

search the drop it forum. They cause a lot of problems and make it look like your leafs hang way far down. If you're wanting to go that low you'll need to get 3" leafs, set backs, shims, 2" blocks, and a notch.