a quick a/c ?

noom14921992 · 08-12-2008, 05:35 PM

ok i know their are a but load of questions about 4wd. and a/c. i know this but i did want to ask one thing. i read the the blazers computers would turn off the compressors if it sensed that there was a low or small or no freon left in the system do to a leak. ok so my compressor does not come on and i know a person can "jump" there compressor to make sure it works. but i was wondering if there was a way to just like pull a fuse and leave it out for an hour and the computer will reset or some thing like that. is there any thing like that. i really just needed to know if my compressor is still good or do i need a new one.thanks and i will leave you all alone to post at your own time

ZQ8 Blazer · 08-12-2008, 06:31 PM

Do you see black oily residue around any of the lines, accumulator, compressor etc?

Mine was VERY low on freon if not completely out and it still worked, just kicked on and off a lot when I ran the A/C. Is the check engine light on (I don't even know if there's a code for a bad A/C)?

To reset the computer you could unplug the battery cables for 10 min.

Sounds like the clutch is out or the wire that engages the clutch is cut somewhere.

Yogi · 08-12-2008, 06:36 PM

It's not the PCM that shuts down the compressor, it's the low pressure switch. The LP switch is located on the side of the accumulator (that aluminum cylinder on the firewall side of the a/c). If you need to bypass the switch, just unplug it and put a jumper wire across the terminals of the wire and the comp should run.

noom14921992 · 08-12-2008, 10:06 PM

i do know of the jumping method. but could some one post up a picture?

The Crispy One · 08-13-2008, 01:41 AM

I actually just had this happen to me. You pull off the the plug on the accumulator (shiny cylinder on the pass side of the engine. With a paper clip jump the terminals on the wire side of the connector. If this turns your ac system on then you need an AC accumulator cycling switch, Advance Auto has them, I forgot how much I paid, I think it was $15. It takes all of 2.5 minutes to do.

noom14921992 · 08-13-2008, 01:48 AM

thanks so just to make sure to make sure i know what you were talking about. i will unplug the connector to the accumulator and put a paper clip in the wire that would have the power/signal to the sensor and connect the prongs or what not. i think i know what you mean just was clarifying .

thanks

Yogi · 08-13-2008, 11:36 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992

i do know of the jumping method. but could some one post up a picture?

What year is it? S10 or Blazer or ...?

noom14921992 · 08-13-2008, 12:55 PM

it is a 1998 and it is a blazer 4wd. 4dr.

i jumped it and the compressor came on. i felt the air from the vents and it felt cold. i am going to the store to buy a charge gauge and a recharge kit. depending on how much charge i have how many oz. will i put in or how much charge. i think i read that the systems max oz. charge is 12 oz.? is that right so does that mean dont get a 24oz. can and put it all in there.i think i will get a gauge and check the charge. then a can of dye and find the leak. is there any thing else i forgot. or is this every thing

add any thing you think i might need to know

thanks so much

Yogi · 08-13-2008, 01:17 PM

There should be a sticker on the evaporator housing that tells you how much. Mine says 1 lb. 12 oz. check yours to be sure.

You have 2 choices:
1) Let all of the refrig. out and recharge with the correct amount, or
2) Use the Mickey Mouse gauge that comes with a recharge kit and fill it until it's in the green zone on the gauge.

Good luck!

noom14921992 · 08-13-2008, 01:42 PM

ok i will go get a recharge kit. recharge it . if i get the kit that has a dye do i have to have a yellow glasses.\ or something like that. and is there a place that leaks more than others. and i will jump it a gain to recharge it but once i get the level to normal i can plug the sensor wire back to the accumulator correct?

Yogi · 08-13-2008, 02:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992

ok i will go get a recharge kit. recharge it . if i get the kit that has a dye do i have to have a yellow glasses.\ or something like that. and is there a place that leaks more than others. and i will jump it a gain to recharge it but once i get the level to normal i can plug the sensor wire back to the accumulator correct?

Correct.

Evaporator and compressor are prone to leak. Also check all connections. Leaks usually leave some oily residue, too. IDK about the dye and the glasses. Maybe someone else can chime in.

The Crispy One · 08-13-2008, 02:58 PM

Hey man, if you're compressor came on, and it felt cold, why are you getting a recharge kit? Don't get me wrong, always good to have ice cold AC, but the fact that its blowing cold leads me to believe its the cycling switch, as was the case in mine.

As for the dye, it is introduced into the ac system and a leakdown test is performed with the system closed (normal operation) You will need UV glasses, or a UV light to see where the leak is coming from. Some compressor oils already come with this dye mixed in.

noom14921992 · 08-13-2008, 03:17 PM

ok i am going to run it for a few minuets and see if it gets cold. if it just felt cold and it was not(but it was 100 when i checked it so it was cold) and i dont have much freon/oil in the system how long could i run it to see if it gets cold before i hurt the compressor?

Yogi · 08-13-2008, 03:47 PM

Does the compressor come on at first when you start the a/c?

If you are getting cooling then the pressure should be 60-70 psi at rest with the system off and the switch should be closed. Then, with an undercharged system, when you turn the a/c on the compressor sucks down the low side pressure to the switch opening point (approx 22 psi) and the comp. shuts off. With a partial charge, the pressure will then slowly rise to the switch closing point, the switch closes and the compressor restarts again. The comp. continues to cycle as the low pressure rises and falls, but the air never gets cold.

If you can jumper the wires for the switch, start the comp. and cool the system, then your system is at least partially charged, and the comp. should cycle. If it will cool but the comp. will not cycle when the switch is hooked up, you may have a bad LP switch. You really need a gauge to test properly, but if you don't have a gauge you could try replacing the switch and see if that solves your problem.

The Crispy One · 08-13-2008, 03:47 PM

It should take no more than 60 seconds to get nice and cool. If it doesn't then get the recharge kit, and the switch.

noom14921992 · 08-13-2008, 10:16 PM

ok. i have the results. i got a gauge and i tested the psi. whith the compressor off and the psi. was 0. and then i put in a 18oz. can of R-134arefrigerant with oil. and it took it up to 45 psi. and when the compressor is off now that i recharged it it is at 100psi. .my system says that a full system takes 1ld. 12 oz. or 28 oz. and i put in 18oz. and the psi is 45 witch on this gauge it says it full. what to do.

and i do have a hising/leak at the compressor. if looking at it from the top the first low point it leaks out. if it does not make sense sorry. and the 2 pipes that go in to the compressor when on get as hot as hell and fire. i cant make heads or tales of it. please tell me what you all think

thanks to all

noom14921992 · 08-13-2008, 10:48 PM

could not edit so this is what i need to say

the compressor does not cycle and it would only get cool not cold. not cold enough to mention .

noom14921992 · 08-13-2008, 11:35 PM

still no edit so i have to put this also

edit: my compressor leaks from underneath it . i guess i will just need a new one unless i can get mine refurbished?

Yogi · 08-14-2008, 12:04 AM

Just get a new one.

noom14921992 · 08-14-2008, 03:30 PM

i was thinking that i could buy the $180 compressor and install it my self with a friend(after i evacuate the old freon with one of those rent units) and then i could get a $30 dryer/accumulator and in stall it myself. and then reconnect all the fittings and make sure they are all good. and then use a rent unit vacuum to get all moister and stuff out. then but the kits of freon from the auto parts store $30 will fill it up. and so that give me a grand total of $240. i could do all that. what do you all think

96Dropped-dime · 08-14-2008, 04:03 PM

When you say under the comp do you meen behind the pully/clutch or the casing??

noom14921992 · 08-14-2008, 04:43 PM

i mean that it leaks where the 2 parts are put together. and its not like it pours out. it is more like a sizzle. but i really need an a/c

Yogi · 08-14-2008, 04:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992

i was thinking that i could buy the $180 compressor and install it my self with a friend(after i evacuate the old freon with one of those rent units) and then i could get a $30 dryer/accumulator and in stall it myself. and then reconnect all the fittings and make sure they are all good. and then use a rent unit vacuum to get all moister and stuff out. then but the kits of freon from the auto parts store $30 will fill it up. and so that give me a grand total of $240. i could do all that. what do you all think

I believe that you will need a gauge set to hook up the vacuum pump properly. And, when a compressor is replaced, SOP is to flush the system with solvent and blow it out with air. Other than that, it looks like you have a good plan.

noom14921992 · 08-14-2008, 05:17 PM

and i could let a shop do some of the stuff that i cant really do like that.is freon gas or a liquid? and i know i can rent the vacuum thing and can vacuum it out once i replace the compressor but does the system have to be flushed and all that. i know you dont want moister in it though. but i think i will do it all and save some money

Yogi · 08-14-2008, 05:22 PM

Another part that needs to be replaced is the orifice tube. You can inspect the old orifice tube for trash and get an idea of how bad (dirty) it is and, if it is clean, you could take a chance and skip the flush. Don't skip the orifice tube though.

Don't pay the shop. Invest in some gauges and do the work yourself.

noom14921992 · 08-14-2008, 05:28 PM

i have heard of the orifice tube but i dont know witch one it is what is it? well i do kinda know but i read that i might need a special tool to remove it is that right?
and i don't know if this matters but the accumulator is connected to some sort of box like thing connected to fire wall and it felt like some cold air came from it. is that normal do i need to put some silicon to plug it?

noom14921992 · 08-14-2008, 05:47 PM

i could not edit my post and i wanted to ask what is the likely hood of me having to replace the tubing /hose that go from accumulator to the compressor they look good to me and they don't leak

Yogi · 08-14-2008, 05:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992

i have heard of the orifice tube but i dont know witch one it is what is it? well i do kinda know but i read that i might need a special tool to remove it is that right?
and i don't know if this matters but the accumulator is connected to some sort of box like thing connected to fire wall and it felt like some cold air came from it. is that normal do i need to put some silicon to plug it?

It is a tube with a small orifice that regulates the flow of liquid refrigerant. As the liquid passes through the OT, the pressure drops significantly and the liquid vaporizes (boils) and absorbs heat which reduces the temperature and produces the refrigeration effect.

The OT is located in the high pressure line at the tubing joint where the line enters the evaporator case.

I have heard of a special too to pull the OT but a pair of long nose pliers usually works.

Plug the cold air leak.

Yogi · 08-14-2008, 05:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992

i could not edit my post and i wanted to ask what is the likely hood of me having to replace the tubing /hose that go from accumulator to the compressor they look good to me and they don't leak

Not likely. Hoses usually last a long time.

noom14921992 · 08-14-2008, 06:14 PM

i am going to start this week end and i will be coming back to here a lot as run into road blocks and will need advice. and i will keep you all up to date and thanks a lot yogi and i will be asking you a few things as they come if that is all right. thanks to all and hope to have an a/c before i don't need it

Yogi · 08-14-2008, 06:16 PM

No prob. Just please, no PMs - ask all you want in the forums.

noom14921992 · 08-14-2008, 06:23 PM

deal and thanks

noom14921992 · 08-15-2008, 01:12 PM

ok if i have a leak at the compressorlike i said earlyer that means that my freon is leaking out. so do i need to get my system vacuumed out still. is that right .
and here is my master plan

1) make sure system is drained

2) replace compressor.isn't it just 4 bolts and it pulls right off after you disconnect the 2 wired connectors and serpentine belt from it

3)replace the accumulator/dryer. it has a hose on either side of it disconnect those and unbolt the bottom and that's it.

4) i would like to if i am supposed to replace the orifice tube give info on it if it is crucial if not i will leave it because a
shop would charge a but load.

5) and then replace the compressor and put serpentine belt back on it. and replace the accumulator/dryer and put the 2 hoses back on it.

6) then i will get it all vacuumed and sealed at a shop and get the oil put in it recharged and it will work i hope.

if i left any thing out tell me. and i do have a question. ok when looking from the front on the truck at the engine bay . look at the accumulator/dryer and follow the tube that goes to the fire wall. it goes to a black box thing. mine says Delphi. i felt cool air coming from it when i had a charge on the system. is that important? please tell me. because i might have to fix it. '

thanks for your help every one.

Yogi · 08-15-2008, 01:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992

ok if i have a leak at the compressorlike i said earlyer that means that my freon is leaking out. so do i need to get my system vacuumed out still. is that right .
and here is my master plan

1) make sure system is drained

2) replace compressor.isn't it just 4 bolts and it pulls right off after you disconnect the 2 wired connectors and serpentine belt from it

3)replace the accumulator/dryer. it has a hose on either side of it disconnect those and unbolt the bottom and that's it.

4) i would like to if i am supposed to replace the orifice tube give info on it if it is crucial if not i will leave it because a
shop would charge a but load.

5) and then replace the compressor and put serpentine belt back on it. and replace the accumulator/dryer and put the 2 hoses back on it.

6) then i will get it all vacuumed and sealed at a shop and get the oil put in it recharged and it will work i hope.

if i left any thing out tell me. and i do have a question. ok when looking from the front on the truck at the engine bay . look at the accumulator/dryer and follow the tube that goes to the fire wall. it goes to a black box thing. mine says Delphi. i felt cool air coming from it when i had a charge on the system. is that important? please tell me. because i might have to fix it. '

thanks for your help every one.

Replacing the orifice tube is critical on a comp. replacement. Most parts stores won't warranty the comp. unless u buy an OT and an accumulator. It's easy to get to once you have the accumulator out of the way.

Like I told you b4, you need to plug the cold air leak.

noom14921992 · 08-15-2008, 01:52 PM

ok i will plug the cold air leak and then i will look in my repair Manuel to replace the OT. thanks again

Yogi · 08-15-2008, 06:03 PM

No prob.

MikeInCtown · 08-24-2008, 10:45 PM

Lots of compressors available out there if you don't want to buy new. People sell them here all the time for $50-$100. You will need the new accumulator. Mine cost me $30 today at Autozone. The orifice tube OE is $2. You can get a fancy one for like $20 if you want and supposedly works better, but you don't really need it. Get an o-ring kit. I picked up a correct one from Autozone for $5 and it has all the sizes I need for my whole system. (my leak was at the connection from hoses to compressor) The can of flush was $15 also at Autozone.

I picked up guages at Harbor Freight for $35 or so and finaly opened them earlier today. They are really nice looking and use the same hoses/fittings as the really expensive brands. Only question now is wether I use the so called super freon that supposedly works better, but it also contains some of the stop leak, which I really don't want.

Oh, and can I add the oil into the compressor and then vacuum out the system? (now that I think about it, I vacuum out home systems and they have oil in them that never gets sucked out. duh.)

08-12-2008, 05:35 PM	#1
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	a quick a/c ? ok i know their are a but load of questions about 4wd. and a/c. i know this but i did want to ask one thing. i read the the blazers computers would turn off the compressors if it sensed that there was a low or small or no freon left in the system do to a leak. ok so my compressor does not come on and i know a person can "jump" there compressor to make sure it works. but i was wondering if there was a way to just like pull a fuse and leave it out for an hour and the computer will reset or some thing like that. is there any thing like that. i really just needed to know if my compressor is still good or do i need a new one.thanks and i will leave you all alone to post at your own time
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-12-2008, 06:31 PM	#2
ZQ8 Blazer ZQ8 Blazer Age: 26 Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 8,723 Location: Western, Ky User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Do you see black oily residue around any of the lines, accumulator, compressor etc? Mine was VERY low on freon if not completely out and it still worked, just kicked on and off a lot when I ran the A/C. Is the check engine light on (I don't even know if there's a code for a bad A/C)? To reset the computer you could unplug the battery cables for 10 min. Sounds like the clutch is out or the wire that engages the clutch is cut somewhere.
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08-12-2008, 06:36 PM	#3
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? It's not the PCM that shuts down the compressor, it's the low pressure switch. The LP switch is located on the side of the accumulator (that aluminum cylinder on the firewall side of the a/c). If you need to bypass the switch, just unplug it and put a jumper wire across the terminals of the wire and the comp should run.
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08-12-2008, 10:06 PM	#4
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? i do know of the jumping method. but could some one post up a picture?
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08-13-2008, 01:41 AM	#5
The Crispy One Project Low Flame: Begun Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Daytona Beach User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? I actually just had this happen to me. You pull off the the plug on the accumulator (shiny cylinder on the pass side of the engine. With a paper clip jump the terminals on the wire side of the connector. If this turns your ac system on then you need an AC accumulator cycling switch, Advance Auto has them, I forgot how much I paid, I think it was $15. It takes all of 2.5 minutes to do.
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08-13-2008, 01:48 AM	#6
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? thanks so just to make sure to make sure i know what you were talking about. i will unplug the connector to the accumulator and put a paper clip in the wire that would have the power/signal to the sensor and connect the prongs or what not. i think i know what you mean just was clarifying . thanks
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08-13-2008, 11:36 AM	#7
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992 i do know of the jumping method. but could some one post up a picture? What year is it? S10 or Blazer or ...?
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08-13-2008, 12:55 PM	#8
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? it is a 1998 and it is a blazer 4wd. 4dr. i jumped it and the compressor came on. i felt the air from the vents and it felt cold. i am going to the store to buy a charge gauge and a recharge kit. depending on how much charge i have how many oz. will i put in or how much charge. i think i read that the systems max oz. charge is 12 oz.? is that right so does that mean dont get a 24oz. can and put it all in there.i think i will get a gauge and check the charge. then a can of dye and find the leak. is there any thing else i forgot. or is this every thing add any thing you think i might need to know thanks so much
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08-13-2008, 01:17 PM	#9
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? There should be a sticker on the evaporator housing that tells you how much. Mine says 1 lb. 12 oz. check yours to be sure. You have 2 choices: 1) Let all of the refrig. out and recharge with the correct amount, or 2) Use the Mickey Mouse gauge that comes with a recharge kit and fill it until it's in the green zone on the gauge. Good luck!
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08-13-2008, 01:42 PM	#10
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? ok i will go get a recharge kit. recharge it . if i get the kit that has a dye do i have to have a yellow glasses.\ or something like that. and is there a place that leaks more than others. and i will jump it a gain to recharge it but once i get the level to normal i can plug the sensor wire back to the accumulator correct?
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08-13-2008, 02:09 PM	#11
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992 ok i will go get a recharge kit. recharge it . if i get the kit that has a dye do i have to have a yellow glasses.\ or something like that. and is there a place that leaks more than others. and i will jump it a gain to recharge it but once i get the level to normal i can plug the sensor wire back to the accumulator correct? Correct. Evaporator and compressor are prone to leak. Also check all connections. Leaks usually leave some oily residue, too. IDK about the dye and the glasses. Maybe someone else can chime in.
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08-13-2008, 02:58 PM	#12
The Crispy One Project Low Flame: Begun Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Daytona Beach User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Hey man, if you're compressor came on, and it felt cold, why are you getting a recharge kit? Don't get me wrong, always good to have ice cold AC, but the fact that its blowing cold leads me to believe its the cycling switch, as was the case in mine. As for the dye, it is introduced into the ac system and a leakdown test is performed with the system closed (normal operation) You will need UV glasses, or a UV light to see where the leak is coming from. Some compressor oils already come with this dye mixed in.
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08-13-2008, 03:17 PM	#13
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? ok i am going to run it for a few minuets and see if it gets cold. if it just felt cold and it was not(but it was 100 when i checked it so it was cold) and i dont have much freon/oil in the system how long could i run it to see if it gets cold before i hurt the compressor?
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08-13-2008, 03:47 PM	#14
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Does the compressor come on at first when you start the a/c? If you are getting cooling then the pressure should be 60-70 psi at rest with the system off and the switch should be closed. Then, with an undercharged system, when you turn the a/c on the compressor sucks down the low side pressure to the switch opening point (approx 22 psi) and the comp. shuts off. With a partial charge, the pressure will then slowly rise to the switch closing point, the switch closes and the compressor restarts again. The comp. continues to cycle as the low pressure rises and falls, but the air never gets cold. If you can jumper the wires for the switch, start the comp. and cool the system, then your system is at least partially charged, and the comp. should cycle. If it will cool but the comp. will not cycle when the switch is hooked up, you may have a bad LP switch. You really need a gauge to test properly, but if you don't have a gauge you could try replacing the switch and see if that solves your problem. Last edited by Yogi : 08-13-2008 at 03:48 PM.
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08-13-2008, 03:47 PM	#15
The Crispy One Project Low Flame: Begun Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Daytona Beach User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? It should take no more than 60 seconds to get nice and cool. If it doesn't then get the recharge kit, and the switch.
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08-13-2008, 10:16 PM	#16
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? ok. i have the results. i got a gauge and i tested the psi. whith the compressor off and the psi. was 0. and then i put in a 18oz. can of R-134arefrigerant with oil. and it took it up to 45 psi. and when the compressor is off now that i recharged it it is at 100psi. .my system says that a full system takes 1ld. 12 oz. or 28 oz. and i put in 18oz. and the psi is 45 witch on this gauge it says it full. what to do. and i do have a hising/leak at the compressor. if looking at it from the top the first low point it leaks out. if it does not make sense sorry. and the 2 pipes that go in to the compressor when on get as hot as hell and fire. i cant make heads or tales of it. please tell me what you all think thanks to all
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08-13-2008, 10:48 PM	#17
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? could not edit so this is what i need to say the compressor does not cycle and it would only get cool not cold. not cold enough to mention .
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08-13-2008, 11:35 PM	#18
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? still no edit so i have to put this also edit: my compressor leaks from underneath it . i guess i will just need a new one unless i can get mine refurbished?
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08-14-2008, 12:04 AM	#19
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Just get a new one.
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08-14-2008, 03:30 PM	#20
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? i was thinking that i could buy the $180 compressor and install it my self with a friend(after i evacuate the old freon with one of those rent units) and then i could get a $30 dryer/accumulator and in stall it myself. and then reconnect all the fittings and make sure they are all good. and then use a rent unit vacuum to get all moister and stuff out. then but the kits of freon from the auto parts store $30 will fill it up. and so that give me a grand total of $240. i could do all that. what do you all think
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08-14-2008, 04:03 PM	#21
96Dropped-dime NOBAMA NOBAMA Age: 24 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 636 Location: Memphis Tn User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? When you say under the comp do you meen behind the pully/clutch or the casing??
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08-14-2008, 04:43 PM	#22
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? i mean that it leaks where the 2 parts are put together. and its not like it pours out. it is more like a sizzle. but i really need an a/c
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08-14-2008, 04:55 PM	#23
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992 i was thinking that i could buy the $180 compressor and install it my self with a friend(after i evacuate the old freon with one of those rent units) and then i could get a $30 dryer/accumulator and in stall it myself. and then reconnect all the fittings and make sure they are all good. and then use a rent unit vacuum to get all moister and stuff out. then but the kits of freon from the auto parts store $30 will fill it up. and so that give me a grand total of $240. i could do all that. what do you all think I believe that you will need a gauge set to hook up the vacuum pump properly. And, when a compressor is replaced, SOP is to flush the system with solvent and blow it out with air. Other than that, it looks like you have a good plan. Last edited by Yogi : 08-14-2008 at 04:57 PM.
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08-14-2008, 05:17 PM	#24
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? and i could let a shop do some of the stuff that i cant really do like that.is freon gas or a liquid? and i know i can rent the vacuum thing and can vacuum it out once i replace the compressor but does the system have to be flushed and all that. i know you dont want moister in it though. but i think i will do it all and save some money
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08-14-2008, 05:22 PM	#25
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Another part that needs to be replaced is the orifice tube. You can inspect the old orifice tube for trash and get an idea of how bad (dirty) it is and, if it is clean, you could take a chance and skip the flush. Don't skip the orifice tube though. Don't pay the shop. Invest in some gauges and do the work yourself. Last edited by Yogi : 08-14-2008 at 05:24 PM.
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08-14-2008, 05:28 PM	#26
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? i have heard of the orifice tube but i dont know witch one it is what is it? well i do kinda know but i read that i might need a special tool to remove it is that right? and i don't know if this matters but the accumulator is connected to some sort of box like thing connected to fire wall and it felt like some cold air came from it. is that normal do i need to put some silicon to plug it? Last edited by noom14921992 : 08-14-2008 at 05:37 PM.
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08-14-2008, 05:47 PM	#27
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? i could not edit my post and i wanted to ask what is the likely hood of me having to replace the tubing /hose that go from accumulator to the compressor they look good to me and they don't leak
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08-14-2008, 05:57 PM	#28
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992 i have heard of the orifice tube but i dont know witch one it is what is it? well i do kinda know but i read that i might need a special tool to remove it is that right? and i don't know if this matters but the accumulator is connected to some sort of box like thing connected to fire wall and it felt like some cold air came from it. is that normal do i need to put some silicon to plug it? It is a tube with a small orifice that regulates the flow of liquid refrigerant. As the liquid passes through the OT, the pressure drops significantly and the liquid vaporizes (boils) and absorbs heat which reduces the temperature and produces the refrigeration effect. The OT is located in the high pressure line at the tubing joint where the line enters the evaporator case. I have heard of a special too to pull the OT but a pair of long nose pliers usually works. Plug the cold air leak.
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08-14-2008, 05:58 PM	#29
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992 i could not edit my post and i wanted to ask what is the likely hood of me having to replace the tubing /hose that go from accumulator to the compressor they look good to me and they don't leak Not likely. Hoses usually last a long time.
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08-14-2008, 06:14 PM	#30
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? i am going to start this week end and i will be coming back to here a lot as run into road blocks and will need advice. and i will keep you all up to date and thanks a lot yogi and i will be asking you a few things as they come if that is all right. thanks to all and hope to have an a/c before i don't need it
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08-14-2008, 06:16 PM	#31
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? No prob. Just please, no PMs - ask all you want in the forums.
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08-14-2008, 06:23 PM	#32
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? deal and thanks
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08-15-2008, 01:12 PM	#33
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? ok if i have a leak at the compressorlike i said earlyer that means that my freon is leaking out. so do i need to get my system vacuumed out still. is that right . and here is my master plan 1) make sure system is drained 2) replace compressor.isn't it just 4 bolts and it pulls right off after you disconnect the 2 wired connectors and serpentine belt from it 3)replace the accumulator/dryer. it has a hose on either side of it disconnect those and unbolt the bottom and that's it. 4) i would like to if i am supposed to replace the orifice tube give info on it if it is crucial if not i will leave it because a shop would charge a but load. 5) and then replace the compressor and put serpentine belt back on it. and replace the accumulator/dryer and put the 2 hoses back on it. 6) then i will get it all vacuumed and sealed at a shop and get the oil put in it recharged and it will work i hope. if i left any thing out tell me. and i do have a question. ok when looking from the front on the truck at the engine bay . look at the accumulator/dryer and follow the tube that goes to the fire wall. it goes to a black box thing. mine says Delphi. i felt cool air coming from it when i had a charge on the system. is that important? please tell me. because i might have to fix it. ' thanks for your help every one.
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08-15-2008, 01:21 PM	#34
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,093 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? Quote: Originally Posted by noom14921992 ok if i have a leak at the compressorlike i said earlyer that means that my freon is leaking out. so do i need to get my system vacuumed out still. is that right . and here is my master plan 1) make sure system is drained 2) replace compressor.isn't it just 4 bolts and it pulls right off after you disconnect the 2 wired connectors and serpentine belt from it 3)replace the accumulator/dryer. it has a hose on either side of it disconnect those and unbolt the bottom and that's it. 4) i would like to if i am supposed to replace the orifice tube give info on it if it is crucial if not i will leave it because a shop would charge a but load. 5) and then replace the compressor and put serpentine belt back on it. and replace the accumulator/dryer and put the 2 hoses back on it. 6) then i will get it all vacuumed and sealed at a shop and get the oil put in it recharged and it will work i hope. if i left any thing out tell me. and i do have a question. ok when looking from the front on the truck at the engine bay . look at the accumulator/dryer and follow the tube that goes to the fire wall. it goes to a black box thing. mine says Delphi. i felt cool air coming from it when i had a charge on the system. is that important? please tell me. because i might have to fix it. ' thanks for your help every one. Replacing the orifice tube is critical on a comp. replacement. Most parts stores won't warranty the comp. unless u buy an OT and an accumulator. It's easy to get to once you have the accumulator out of the way. Like I told you b4, you need to plug the cold air leak.
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08-15-2008, 01:52 PM	#35
noom14921992 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: a quick a/c ? ok i will plug the cold air leak and then i will look in my repair Manuel to replace the OT. thanks again
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