replacing motor mounts - S-10 Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-09-2009, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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replacing motor mounts

How hard is it to replace the motor mounts in a 1st gen?
It's a 2wd - 4.3L v6.
Any tips or tricks that may help me get this done?


I did my Saturn last month, but that one is right on top, not underneath the engine...really easy, and there was even a video on Youtube with someone doing it...I'm guessing the ones on my truck are not going to be that simple and straightforward...

If I attempt this, I'll be doing it in my garage w/ nothing but a simple set of hand tools, floor jack and jack stands...step by step instructions would be great, but I'll take any/all information I can get.

I posted this in the 4.3 forum, but threw it here as well since I have a 1st gen...Thanks in advance...


91 GMC Sonoma 4.3 V-6 Auto...bone stock
ext. cab

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post #2 of 10 Old 05-09-2009, 04:15 AM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

Well at least you have a 4.3 so it should be much easier than say a 2.8 as for those you need to go through the control arm opening.

The mounts for the 4.3 should be on a perch that sits off the frame a bit. If you have an engine hoist you could use it too lift up the motor a bit once the main bolts are removed.
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-09-2009, 04:47 AM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

Before you raise the engine to get clearance to remove the mounts, take the distributor cap off and move if forward a bit so that you don't break it when you raise the engine. It's already close to the firewall.
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-09-2009, 08:00 AM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

yeap cap and rotor will give you a little more room, also a piece of wood like a 2x4 about a foot long place it on something solid like the trany bell housing with a jack under it to jack the motor up a little after you take the bolts loose on the motor mounts

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post #5 of 10 Old 05-10-2009, 01:00 PM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

No perch on mine when I did em. MAJOR PITA. I did find
one slot on the left side crossmember that allowed me a
bit of room to get a wrench in there to hold the nuts while
I unbolted the pad mount, but on the right side I had to
open up the cross member to access those nuts. For me
it was a job. I installed ply mounts in it so I wouldn't
have to ever change them again, but wish they didn't
vibrate the engine so much through the frame.

JTR is suppose to make a really nice rubber/poly mount ?

Anyway it's not fun.
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-10-2009, 07:29 PM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

My driver side mount is broken, made it hard to get third gear during hard acceleration. I bought new mounts and then decided it looked like more work than it was worth to replace them. I just rigged up a limiting cable for the driver side of the motor to keep the mount from separating. Works like a charm and is holding up just fine.


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post #7 of 10 Old 05-10-2009, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: replacing motor mounts

Thanks for the replies so far...now, where to purchase the mounts...I'm thinking the poly mounts, or at least heavy duty (not OEM) replacements...everything points to this being a PITA job, so I'm pretty sure I'm only gonna want to do this once.

Links??? (for JTR mounts) or other polyurethane or HD mounts.

91 GMC Sonoma 4.3 V-6 Auto...bone stock
ext. cab

Want a good body? Work at it. Want to be a success? Work at it. Want to be truly exceptional? Be a touch insane...
You need a little bit of insanity to do great things."
- Henry Rollins
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-11-2009, 02:17 AM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

jagsthatrun.com (jtr). Its an S10 to V8 (and other vehicles) conversion site.
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-11-2009, 02:47 AM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

So you guys don't have that stand for the 4.3's mount? I never payed any attention to other 4.3 s trucks I worked on to see if they had that or not. That stand offsets the mounts like JTR's engine brakets offset the motor for use with the 2.8 rubber mounts.

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post #10 of 10 Old 05-13-2009, 09:04 AM
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Re: replacing motor mounts

Thats only in the blazer chassis.
Oh, forgot to say, if the mounts are sagging and the oil pan is sitting on the frame, then it will be a bitch to do ,The heat sheilds are in the way,and its almost impossible to get a socket on the bolts because they are covered up by the worn out mount.


Last edited by s10-den; 05-13-2009 at 09:06 AM.
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