Thanks BAD. I looked everywhere, Oreilly's, Autozone and Advanced and all of them said they couldn't get one. I have an 88 S-10 SB 2WD with a 2.5. The line was flex, and metric, so finding an exact replacement wasn't going to happen.
1. I bought 24" of 1/4" for $6.
2. Then took the fittings off of the old line and ran a drill through them, 17/64".
3. Cut the new line at the end and slide on the old, drilled out fittings.
4. I put the cut end in the flaring die and ran a drill through it to get rid of the burr, then flared the end to 45 degrees. (I always lube the nipple before flaring)
5. I put one end in the slave and got the bend in the general direction of the master.
6. About four or five inches away, i wrapped the tubing around a 1" socket I held with a vice and made one revolution. This will give it some spring for movement. For example, look at your brake lines coming out of the master cylinder.
7. Bend it slightly to fit onto the master and tighten it up.
8. Bleeding is a pain in the ass. Pump-Hold-crack the bleeder-tighten the bleeder-repeat. It's a pain because you have to do it so many times.
Pro-tip......fill the reservoir and crack the bleeder until you see clear fluid. This takes a while but it always works on non-powered systems. I bleed the brakes on my racecars like this all the time. Wait about ten minutes before you tighten the bleeder and start the pump hold bleed precess.
ALSO!!!!! DON'T LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START ALL OVER! AND USE LOTS OF PENETRATING OIL!
disclaimer: as with anything, there are several ways to come to the same result. your transmission may be different, like BASS15v8's was. my lines were bigger than 3/16" I had to use 1/4 inch line to get the fittings to work. If you have questions, e mail me at email@example.com
. I'll be glad to help you.