1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous - S-10 Forum
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post #1 of 138 Old 07-21-2015, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Hey folks, I am new to this forum, but once I found it I figured you guys might want to see what its happening with my old ratty S10. At some point I might spend the time to fix the cab and bed, as the truck is growing on me. I bought it from the scrapyard for 400$, when my employer's new overlords decided it was junk and they didn't want to pay me to fix it. (I was the fleet mechanic for the old overlords, in addition to my role as electronic service tech)

If it wasn't such a useful thing...



But it is. Installed that "lowering kit" helping my buddy install a pool...didn't find all the great stuff, like I said above:



I picked up some replacement springs. Cost me an hour, and a small pile of scrapmetal. The things you find stashed in farmer's fields never ceases to amaze me.



Camper shell damage:



Hail damage...





This old truck got beat to shit back in 1998, but whenever I find non-hammered parts I try to replace them. Needs a cab and a front driver's fender now, the long bed is a rare thing to find on a long-wheelbase truck in the area that I live in...almost all of the long-wheelbase trucks I've seen have short beds and extended cabs on them. Problem is...the wheel arches are not in the same locations on the bed! Means I have to fix the two dents in the bed side.

Old reliable...this engine has done 200K miles in 22 years. Leaks oil out the stamped steel valve covers like they're not even bolted on, and that shitful A/C compressor has been replaced 4 times, can't get a good one. Replaced the whole A/C system completely the last two go-rounds, compressor seals always fail on the rebuilt ones.



And here's the mock-up assembly I had on the stand before the engine build started:



I just needed a place to set one of the blowers down while I re-arranged the blower shelf, things were getting out of hand with the turbo shelf so I consolidated them all into one shelf.

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post #2 of 138 Old 07-21-2015, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Started working on this thing the other day, I'm unemployed while I work on getting my new business started. I do a little fabrication work for cars...so I got carried away and now this thing is getting an M90 blower. For reasons.

I have a set of mild steel header flanges I cut out on a buddy's plasma table, I used a DXF I found on the internet to do it. It wasn't perfect, as you can see.



They're not particularly well aligned, I believe the flanges were normalized as the other head is slightly different still.







Might do some port cleanup at some point. I do have a flowbench in the corner.



Will be a bit snug up here. Totally workable. This is the tight-tube anyway, the other two will have to snake a bit.



Current plan is a 44.6" tube length, but I don't know if I can get the driver's side tubes under the engine and merged into place in only 44". We shall see.

Guess I should mention that this is a 3.4L bottom end, combined with a pair of 3500 cylinder heads/lower intake/upper intake and a Camaro accessory drive. I will be using the Camaro PCM, and will modify the wiring harness from the Camaro as well-I'm not scared of wiring. Robert Isaar and The Raven/Six-Shooter (I belive he has a truck on here as well) have been quite helpful in working out what parts will work and the tuning of the PCM.

Will get a cam as well-not a big one, but some. Again, for reasons.
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post #3 of 138 Old 07-21-2015, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Had to chop this section off the power steering bracket, only the top left hole in the photo lines up. Would have to drill the head for top right hole, as it's off 15mm, and the bottom hole just has to go anyway to clear the coolant temp sensor.



Need to add a smidge of steel to this power steering pump bracket...no biggie.



Block had to go to the machine shop. All the bores but one cleaned up at a slightly loose 0.0024" over the piston skirt, when the pistons call for 0.0013" as the target clearance. The #1 bore, however...



Didn't make it there. Swapped the pistons out for the cheapest available oversize (+0.75mm) from the same manufacturer. They're Silv-O-Lite hyperutectics, but they're "rebuilders' pistons" and as such are decked 0.030" in compression height-perfect if you had to cut the deck or if you're using a 0.020" thinner head gasket, which is what I need to do to get the heads onto the block-these pistons originally came in the FWD engines that used hard plastic junk that was 0.060" thick, vs the RWD engines that used more traditional graphite composite gaskets that crush down to 0.040" thick. Without decking the pistons, the pistons for use with the alloy heads will just kiss the heads if everything is standard-standard...they wind up at a 0.0" clearance. I'll wind up with the target 9.5:1 compression, 0.030" piston-to-head clearance, and the good, cheap headgaskets.

The destructions that came with the pistons indicate using a 20% bigger top ring gap for them as they are hypereutectic, regardless of the ring manufacturer, but I don't know why. The rings are a relatively inexpensive total seal set with a steel top ring and ductile iron second ring, will give them a call and ask why/why not.

Once the block is back, I'll dummy it up and get the accessory drive on, work out the idler needed to get enough belt wrap on the supercharger drive pulley, as well as the drive ratio. I already have a few quick-swap pulleys, so just need to whip up another hub and that's fixed. I already built all the jigs to shorten the Eaton nosedrive, so that's no big deal. The case will be a new one for me-I haven't done a right-angle entry case before. I think I can cut a solid 4" off the back of the case, raise the intake port up and to the right side of the bay and fit a 65-70mm throttle with no issues. I don't really need a giant throttle on this one-not going to run more than 8-10lbs of boost, target is 6-8lbs.

Worked out that the rocker arms are actually 1.6:1 ratio roller fulcrum units instead of the plus-or-minus 1.52:1 ratio stamped-pivot units that were stock-this is handy. Means that the cam profile that I picked will work out favorably. Cam is 268* at 0.006" lifter rise, 218* at 0.050 lifter rise, and would lift 0.467" at the valve with the 1.52 ratio rocker arms-with the 1.6 arms, that's 0.491"...not a big increase but it's definitely welcome. Will still need custom pushrods-but I needed those anyway, partly because of the headgaskets and partly due to the alloy heads always being on roller-cam engines except for the very early ones. The difference in lifter-height is a lot. I have a set of the "correct" pushrods that would probably work on a stock cam, but they were never a sure thing so it's not a huge deal.
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post #4 of 138 Old 07-21-2015, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

So while I had to be outside with the dog on the 4th of July as per the fireworks-are-freaking-me-the-****-out agreement that dog and I have, I got out the markers and we went and looked at mangleing a blower case. I have *some* room to work, I can cut about 2.5" off the back of the case and bring it around, keep it a 70mm inlet, and it'll work out fine.



The intake manifold is kinda-sorta where it would need to be underneath the blower; I'll skin the top of it off and gut the manifold, I'm still working on intercooler ideas.



The L67 length nosedrive assembly might be pretty close. I might compromise on blower position if it's really close, but if it's off more than half the width of the pulley, I'll re-machine the nose drive same as I did the datto's. I have spare pulleys for the quick change pulley on the datto, so I'll machine another hub and they'll share. I think the datto will need a 3.4" pulley eventually and this truck will need a 3.8 or a 3.6, I have a spare 3.8 and the datto has a 3.6 on it already.



The stock throttle body for the 3500 isn't gonna work..it's drive-by-wire. The stock throttle for the blower engine won't work, as it's **** ugly. However, I think that I can make a Northstar throttle do the job, just gotta look at it hard for a bit and actually acquire one. Also took a closer look at the heads, as they'll get a quick port cleanup and then an expensive-as-**** valve job, considering I'm operating on basically 200$ a month, after the important bills are paid. Stock valve job is a nice 5 angle one, both on intake and exhaust. The chamber has some sharp edges at the end of the valve job top cut, those will be blended but other than that the chamber is done-it's actually a decent job. I am looking into how much bigger the valves can go in the stock seats, as that will let me use the stock valve job angles but push the diameter out, rather than sink the seat down into the head. Sinking the intake seat slightly would let it blend into the chamber better, the top cut would flow out much cleaner, but going too much will screw with the rockers, which are shimmable, but otherwise non-adjustable. Stock valves, blend the throat cut into the port instead of the sharp machined corner right under the short turn (all six are different and very irregular), and profile the guide boss, and these heads are a valve job away from blower service.







I need to make a new battery tray to get the battery moved from the right side of the engine bay over to the left side, then stash a stock airbox out of something over in the old battery location to match up with the engine. The battery job will only take a longer wire to the starter-the other wires are workable. Not that big a job.
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post #5 of 138 Old 07-21-2015, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Did a bit of work on the intake a few nights back-can't really go a LOT further til the block is back in my hands, though.

Started choppin'



The three columns in the middle of the plenum meant I had to use a BFH to break up the top of the casting once it was cut, then start chopping the inside of the plenum clean.

Leftovers...



Dug through the stock shelf and found some aluminum flat, it'll work. Manifold was NASTY inside, coated in tar.



Going to run that through the dishwasher a few dozen times, a trip across the belt sander to clean up the front and I'll weld in a bit to close up that hole, and then the new 10mm thick top plate will get welded in place. Will look something like this all done:



You can see here that I'll have to scallop the top plate to allow the upper intake to bolt to the lower-the M90 blower is almost exactly the same width as the upper intake manifold. I am contemplating just chopping it down to where the bolts currently seat, and welding it on flush. Would be much easier to weld into place, and would solve some other issues, but I would have to buy a longer piece of plate. So that's not gonna happen.



In other areas, there are some things that are tantalizingly close to correct-the nose drive length and the pulley size, namely. Roughly measuring using bits of the accessory drive show the pulley was within 3mm of being correct just stacking things on the table-I have plenty of room to move it that much-and the drive ratio should give me about 6-8lbs of boost without changing anything.

Running low on cash again, so I'll have to haul off some scrap metal to get things turning in the right direction again. Things are workable, if tight.
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post #6 of 138 Old 07-21-2015, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Crap. Just realized this is probably a better fit in the "Drivetrain/Engine" part of the forum...Can a Moderator move it there?
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post #7 of 138 Old 07-21-2015, 11:08 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Welcome! I'm watching this one.

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post #8 of 138 Old 07-22-2015, 07:29 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Sent you a pm regarding a cab
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post #9 of 138 Old 07-24-2015, 12:54 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Nice work and like the detailed pictures & Description!
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post #10 of 138 Old 07-24-2015, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

I am sitting in the shop today, working out how to best cram an intercooler into this thing. It is a TIGHT fit! As it is now, with no intercooler, I'd be limited to 8-10lbs of boost and that is perfectly fine-the T5 trans won't take much more than that and I may break it with just that. Also, there is a small but nonzero chance that I could make the blower fit under the stock hood-this is a BIG advantage. I am not a fan of the cowl hood look.

On the other hand, intercooling is ALWAYS worth power and reliability, and if the blower doesn't clear the hood without it, then there is absolutely no reason to not lift the blower up another 30mm to fit the intercooler in there.

I am leaning towards an intercooled blower more and more the longer I think about it.
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

If you don't, you will always wish you did. Do you wanna tear it back apart later?

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post #12 of 138 Old 07-24-2015, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

The upper intake just unbolts-there would be no issue making multiple revisions of the upper intake.

The castings are 10-15$ at the local parts yard and there seems to be an unlimited supply.
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post #13 of 138 Old 07-25-2015, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Spent some time today picking up some parts in the parts yard, couple wiring bits and connectors, few other bits.

Tonight was spent reworking the supercharger case. Trimmed off the original throttle body flange, started opening up one side of the case.



Here's the case trimmed, marked out and starting to open it up:



Started mocking it up with a section of 3" tubing, getting a feel for how things are going to work out. Will need a bit of welding to get things radiused correctly.



Another look:



Positioned on top of the upper manifold, trying to get an idea of how the throttle body will set. It's a 75mm unit from a Northstar V8.



A couple more hours has this fitted and fixed.
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post #14 of 138 Old 07-29-2015, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Looks like we're gonna do some pie cuts today...I can't find anyone with the aluminum bend I want for the price I want.

Hopefully I'll have the throttle body on the blower this weekend, and the blower at least mocked up on the block (still waiting!)
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

You know the rules: PICS PICS PICS!

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post #16 of 138 Old 08-01-2015, 04:02 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Goofed around some more on this tonight. Here's the intercooler core, and yes, it's not very big. The core area is slightly larger than the supercharger outlet area.





Those inlets are too small-6mm. And it's a 4-pass core, instead of the 2-pass that I thought I was getting.

So, fix the inlets...First thing is to close up the old holes and weld a thick pad of aluminum that I can either drill and tap, or weld a tube onto.



Checking to see how it fits down in the lower half-If I raised it up 5/8" of an inch it will fit absolutely fine. I am pretty sure I know how I'll do this now. Gonna be a lot of drilled and tapped holes...



Had to pull the header jig off the temporary work table so I could mock up the belt drive-I can easily get the supercharger into place where the factory nosedrive will line up. I am VERY tempted to just make a pattern and pour a new casting, that will accept the supercharger mounting plate. This will let me use a bolt-on plate and for FWD or transverse mounted engines, and an un-modified supercharger could be used. For longitudinal applications, though, there isn't any room without chopping up the firewall. The supercharger case would have to be modified.





I did yank that bypass pipe out today. It just isn't going to work for what I need it for and I'm using the CamaroBird bypass in the engine block, all that pipe does is recirculate water to the inlet of the water pump until the engine warms up-basically a thermostatic bypass. Once the engine is up to temperature and the main thermostat starts to open, the bypass pipe gets closed off and forces all the coolant to run through the radiator. This speeds up warmup times and gets the engine into closed-loop faster, which means lower emissions.

I will have to drill and tap for the heater hoses. Should just be one hose from the water pump, and one hose from just behind the thermostat, I would think...

Also just realizing that while the Camaro accessories will simplify belt routing, they also mean giving up the clutch-driven fan of the S10 truck, because it doesn't line up. That sucks. That engine driven fan just will NOT let the engine overheat, no matter what. I do have a Volvo 960 Turbo 16" 2-speed electric fan, though, so and it moves serious, serious air. It had to, to pull air through the A/C core, intercooler, oil cooler, and radiator on the Volvo.

Next on the list of things to fix is the temperature sending unit for the dash gauge. The iron head and aluminum gen2 engines have a port in the corner of the cylinder head, and the computer pulled temperature from the thermostat housing. I am planning to fit the stock LS1 temp sensor in the thermostat housing, and the gauge sending unit will most likely be another LS1 sensor installed into the V6 location, which is in the front of the right cylinder head. I am under the impression that the transfer curves for the two sensors are identical, GM uses the same sensor for oil temp, water temp, intake air temp, etc. Only difference is the two pin sensor needs one pin grounded to the block for the gauge to work.
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post #17 of 138 Old 08-01-2015, 07:09 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Gotta follow this!

1997 SS---Built and Blown

My build thread... http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...ecs-ss-513887/
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post #18 of 138 Old 08-03-2015, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Yep, gonna have to make a 4" cowl hood to clear everything.

Danged intercooler.
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post #19 of 138 Old 08-11-2015, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Found a new cleaner for my aluminum parts-works pretty sweet. Zep Orange Clean, doesn't contain any of the acids or bases that cause the white-powder corrosion on aluminum. Works best for me heated to about 120F, so hot tap-water hot. Literally strips away grease and oil soaked into the pores, but doesn't get real deep-it will NOT replace a bake-out or torch-heating for weld prep. Found that out doing the valve cover, had to weld a 6mm thick plate over an old PCV hole so I can fit a new PCV valve, the original was riveted into place and was a known issue with the engine in its OEM application. By heating the parts up to 200F or so and washing in room-temp Zep, the grease got stripped out to welding-clean. Still didn't remove the intake port tar, but it did convert it to a crispy, flaky carbon-like deposit, that brushed out pretty well.

Since the heads needed a valve job anyway, I set the flow bench up in %Flow and started working on the intake port. I still don't have my calibrated venturis made, so I can only measure gains against the fixed orifice plate. I have what the stock heads flowed on a different bench on a different day, but using a clean valve and clean stock port, on the factory valve job, I set a baseline, then worked the port to produce a fair increase in flow while only removing 2.1CC's of material. Low-lift flow didn't suffer any, flow at 0.250" lift picked up 14%, and flow at 0.500" lift picked up 16%. Port is a little howly at 0.500" lift. At 0.550" lift it is louder, same pitch, and flow only picks up about 4% over stock. At least it didn't loose any! Stock, the port was quiet at all lifts. I did not open the gasket face of the port up any at all, MCSA is unchanged from stock. Mostly reduced and re-shaped the valve guide boss, the rest of the port just needed a little cleaning up of casting flaws around the valve seat. Port hasn't been cartridge-rolled yet, so it's right off the carbide. I didn't nick up the stock seats, so this is all on a stock valve job so far. The combustion chamber needs some attention, lots of sharp edges left over from the factory seat cutter, basically a sharp ring all the way round the valve on the intake. Exhaust valve has a nice smooth cut though, on most of the chambers. I will clean off the sharp edge and that's it for the chamber.







Found out that Comp Cams PN 26986 springs will fit the stock seats/seals/retainers, which is nice. They seem to be a universal spring with a 1" ID and 1.45" OD at the base, and with the 0.650" ID at the top, LS1-style retainers work too. PAC-1286 is the same spring, Scorpion Racing SRP-1286 is the same spring. LS6 springs can be made to fit by using LS spring seats with the ID opened up, plus some 4-cylinder valve seals, but lift is limited to 0.490" before coil bind becomes an issue...I would have thought they would do better than that. Installed height is shorter by 0.060" though so it shouldn't be a surprise. The Comp springs are slightly over budget at this point, but something will have to happen, as the stock springs checked out all over the place for spring rate...out of 12 springs, the deviation from mean was 22%.
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post #20 of 138 Old 09-22-2015, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

I had to order a different USB->TTL converter because the first one I ordered was a brand that won't talk to the GM ECUs, so while I wait on that to show up, I worked on the intake manifold some more. Technically, at this point there is no reason why this intake won't work on ANY 3500 or big-port 3400, as the lower intake doesn't need to be modified at all.

First thing to do is get it cleaned up a bit and start measuring how far off I was with the angle grinder.



It was +/- 40 thou, spent thirty minutes with a file and got it to this point:



Then I welded up this frame, it's 0.750" tall and 0.500" thick bar, and it actually came out pretty square. A little clean-up on the welding and it was ready to be welded to the top of the intake casting.



Yes, I did **** up. The sharp-eyed ones of you will notice that the intake says "front" and the frame says "back". No, it doesn't matter.

The small hole in front was easily filled in, didn't take any photos. The bigger hole in the back I did take some photos of.



I used some 0.213" thick plate that was in the big stack from page 1, it's thicker than the casting but I didn't have anymore of the 0.127" plate I used on the front. It'll be fine.



When I'm not welding on shitty castings, I can go OK with the TIG with a little rum in me. None of that white rum shit, though.



Now that the frame is welded on, I unbolted it from the lower intake manifold and measured how far it sprung during welding. The total out-of-flat was decent, pulled 0.013" total. That's totally workable, I'm gonna run it over to a buddy with a milling machine and have him skim it flat. Yeah, I *could* do it in the shop but the machined face on the bottom is slightly higher than the lowest part of the intake, so I'd have to find two slabs of plate that are parallel and flat, fit them both on the surface plate, and lap the intake against the plates...just more trouble than it's worth. Once the intake is flat and parallel then I'll start drilling and tapping the 20-something holes in the frame on top, that the supercharger plate will be bolted to. Once the plate is bolted down, I'll have to get the heads on the block and the lower intake manifold fitted, and get all the accessory drive bolted up, so I can get the supercharger drive pulley aligned and square. Once that's done and the super is fitted to the top plate, I can start on the headers.

There's no exterior differences between the 3.4L aluminum-headed hybrid I'm building, and the 2.8L iron-headed boatanchor in the truck, aside from the accessory drive. Originally, when the 3.4L engine still had iron heads on it, the exhaust manifolds were identical. I've dummied up the headers in PVC on the truck, so I'm pretty sure I won't have to clearance the truck with the BFH later when I go to bolt the new engine into place. If I have to apply the BFH, well, then I have to apply the BFH.
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post #21 of 138 Old 09-22-2015, 07:04 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Enjoying the machining details. It's like reading something out of Penthouse Forum.

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post #22 of 138 Old 09-26-2015, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

This is the part I'm good at. I'll build this, get it tuned, get it on the SFI injection computer, and get it into the truck.

Then I have to figure out the bodywork-this is built to be a work truck of that guy with the engine affliction, so I'll repaint it a panel at a time, whenever I get them done. White truck, blue-stock interior, but I want to go to bucket seats or a split bench. Will get a new rear bumper, new front bumper, I'd like to find a Bravada grill somewhere. My chrome chevy front end isn't really what I want.

There is a clean white S10 longbed running around town that I've admired for years-it's a 2.8L single-cab, black interior with superdark tint...I'm not big on tint and wouldn't tint mine.

I've also considered doing all of the above to the exterior, and finding a clean 4WD frame and building a psych-clone, the ECU I'm going to be using is fully capable of controlling a 4L60e, the trailblazer SS transfer case can be fitted, and I have two Explorer 8.8 limited slip differentials in the garage already. Only issue is I'd have to figure out a front differential, as I'd want 3.73 gears front and rear.
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post #23 of 138 Old 09-28-2015, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Got the upper intake manifold and supercharger mounting plate drilled, tapped, and countersunk today for the supercharger mounting plate. I may start assembling the engine next week, and just use the camaro oil pan to keep the sump covered and clean until I can buy another S10 oil pan.



Just need the oil pan and to make new pushrods, and that'll have the engine assembled all the way up to the lower intake manifold. That's the stage I need to get to in order to set the belt drive up and the super positioned properly on the manifold. Until I have the supercharger position nailed down, I can't machine for the intercooler core.

Of course I could just dummy everything up...which is the right way to do this.
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post #24 of 138 Old 09-30-2015, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Forgot to do the rocker arm thing today. I'll get around to it...

I did assemble the Tower Of Power today, needed to figure out what to get to make the throttle body fit where it belongs. This may be a wide flat cowl hood when I finally get it on there...

Gonna have to address this problem...



It's possible I'll need to add a little metal to the back of the base plate, but more likely I will need to add a bolt boss to the supercharger case. It's doable.

And this is why. The bypass valve pretty much straddles this screw, there's plenty open area there to flow air through but I'll have to bevel and radius the opening to make airflow smooth, to keep bypass noise down. I didn't do this on the datsun and the bypass valve is ****ING LOUD.



I did get the intercooler core mounted, just gotta work out the tubing inside the intake manifold. May get interesting.



The Tower, minus the cylinder head I didn't need. I may bolt it up tomarrow to level things out, but for what I needed, it was just more bolts.



And this is where I want the throttle body to sit, If I can get it here then I will have absolutely no problem removing the valve cover without unbolting the supercharger. Will take a 135 or 180* 3" aluminum bend, Or I could be a cheap bastard and pie-cut it.



If I were to pie-cut it it would be hours of grinding and sanding inside the bend to get it smooth, so it may be worth it just to get an aluminum bend when I order more exhaust parts.
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post #25 of 138 Old 10-02-2015, 05:58 PM
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Are you using the t5 transmission that came with the truck? I never thought it would hold up to much more than a factory 2.5 or 2.8
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post #26 of 138 Old 10-02-2015, 07:27 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

i had one behind a modded 2.8 and it lasted 3 years. and it was a rebuilt one.

i dont like the t5's in these trucks...

anyway, loving the work.. and pics..
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post #27 of 138 Old 10-02-2015, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

It's a T5...It'll explode at 300ft-lbs, so yeah, it'll probably break.

Don't care much, putting a new bellhousing on a stronger box is a cakewalk.





That's an Aisin AZ6 6-speed to Nissan L-28 conversion bellhousing that I do, above.

Here in my shop, we have to make our own cylinder heads occasionally...





Sometimes you just gotta use the parts you gotta use. LS1 V8 heads cut and welded to fit a Ford 300 inline six engine block.

Transmission is no problem.
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post #28 of 138 Old 10-03-2015, 03:35 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Last two pics= mind blown.

Getting better with every failure



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post #29 of 138 Old 10-05-2015, 01:15 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

^^Same that's pretty crazy. I wish i had that kind of skill

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post #30 of 138 Old 10-06-2015, 08:30 AM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

The head mod is MADNESS...
How about an intake manifold?? That will be even more of a challenge...

S10 addiction:
1)'82 S10, 383, 700R4, Shorty
2) '85 S10, 3.4, 700R4 4x4 stretch cab (Redneck) 3) '90 S10 2.5, 5 speed shorty
4) '91 S10, Built 3.4, 5 speed shorty (Voodoo)
5) '92 S10, 2.5, 5 speed shorty, (Barbie)
6) '83 S10, 327, TH 350, shorty (13.00 best) Sold
7) '92 S10, 2.5 5 speed, Shorty
8) 1979 LUV, Buick 3.8 V6, TH 350 Shorty.
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post #31 of 138 Old 10-10-2015, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Nah, intake manifolds aren't hard. Here's a shot of what the intake manifold for my daily looked like before I installed it, it's bolted to a mock-up engine in the shop:



That's an old Nissan L28, but still an inline six.
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post #32 of 138 Old 10-10-2015, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

So far today, I've sanded down the tops of my pistons to get them to zero deck, they were originally 0.015" out of the hole and that was a little much for me, considering the headgasket is only 0.040" thick.

I still need to set the thrust clearance on the crank, as it's slightly too tight, and gap all the rings, but at that point I'll have the rotating assembly installed into the cylinder block. After that, I need to finish the heads. I have a set of heads that had a valve job done already, I will see if those exhaust valves will fit. If they'll lap in cleanly without tearing up the seats, then I'll be valve stem seals away from assembling the heads. Cam should arrive in a week, so at that point I'm pushrods away from final assembly.
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post #33 of 138 Old 10-17-2015, 03:09 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

This is an awesome build, and your skills are obvious. The only thing I would do different if I was as good as you, is put twin dual cam heads on this engine. Those are dead sexy looking

WIP-'82 S15 LB 350 Vortec, narrowed Ranger 3.55 posi 8.8, mustang gt rear discs, ZQ8 bars, jeep shaft, 2/3 drop. Working on Vortec FI and NV3500 swaps.
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post #34 of 138 Old 10-17-2015, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

TDC heads don't fit anything but the TDC block...

And they don't make as much power as the 3500 heads do.
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post #35 of 138 Old 10-18-2015, 11:23 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Im loving this build, should totally put a 6 speed behind that engine

89 S10 2.5 5 speed 2wd
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post #36 of 138 Old 10-19-2015, 10:22 AM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Looks pretty sweet dude. Any progress on this?

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post #37 of 138 Old 10-20-2015, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

A little. I work out of town monday-friday, so I am only home saturdays and sundays...and sometimes just sundays.

The shortblock is all but assembled, waiting on the cam to show up and a new crankshaft key. Once I have those two items then everything from the heads down can be assembled.

In the meantime, the bottom end is in a bag, the heads are bolted on straight through the bag in the photos below. I am checking clearances and have been working on the throttle body inlet tube.

This is the new threaded hole in the head for the power steering bracket-it's level with the old hole but moves over about 15mm.



It's not blind though, so thread sealant is required here. I will probably just bond in a stud.

The camaro alternator mount already has a blind hole in it that just needs to be drilled through, and it'll bolt up to the GenIII/IV cylinder heads. I'm lucky I had a set of GenII valve covers, because the alternator-to-valve cover clearance is TIGHT.



Really, really tight:



May need some additional clearancing later when all the gaskets get fitted up. Only about 5mm there now, and I'll loose 2mm total when all the gaskets go on.
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post #38 of 138 Old 10-20-2015, 01:58 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

haha I love how tall and skinny these things are with a supercharger

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post #39 of 138 Old 10-20-2015, 08:27 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Holy ****in shit, how did I miss this? That's amazing.
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post #40 of 138 Old 10-20-2015, 08:36 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Definitely a cool build!

Nice Work!

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post #41 of 138 Old 10-21-2015, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Screwed around with this a little tonight.

Managed to cut up some pipe.





Still need to bring the flange down about 20mm and forward 30mm, but it's closer. Also need to make a pair of aluminum v-band flanges. This intake tube is just too long and thin to make an integral part of the blower case, the chances of a vibration-induced fatigue fracture are too great. A simple bracket that bolts to the intake manifold, plus the v-band flanges, would be able to eliminate this problem.

Camshaft showed up today, so saturday or sunday I may fit it up and measure for pushrods.
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post #42 of 138 Old 11-23-2015, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Been pretty busy, but I decided to start on the headers today.

Passenger side first, as it's got the most crap in the way.

Tight, tight, tight on the A/C compressor, not much way around it.



Have to maintain some room from the knock sensor and the crank position sensor on that second tube...CPS is not visible here because the block is bagged.



This enormous starter motor is going away. It's almost as big as the cylinder head. Denso big block mini starter got ordered, and I will mod it if needed to fit. Standard SBC is 153 teeth on the flywheel, but straight-across starter bolts. BBC is 168 teeth, with offset bolts. V6-60 family has offset bolts in the BBC pattern, but a 148 tooth flywheel. I am hoping that I can shim/modify the new starter to work. If not, well, then I just need to build a BBC so I can use this starter.



The wire brush is laying on the two bellhousing bolt bosses, showing me where 1" off the bellhousing is. I will still be able to route pipe within 3/8", this was just a quick way to get me in the ballpark.



Since these header tubes have to be over 40" long, and the total distance they have to travel changes by 11" from front to back, packaging is going to get interesting.







Working on that last tube:



Not quite right yet...



Was kinda overly focused and a bit tired so I forgot to take the rest of the photos. Here's a few shots on my kitchen table, I wasn't going back out to the shop tonight, temperature was too low. It was 38F/3.3C in the workshop for the last few hours.





Tomorrow night I plan to start the other three cylinders, which should be much easier to do, as there is not much on that side. Just have to miss the oil pressure sending unit, and keep them tight to the block and pretty much straight down. Since the local coating shop shut down I have to figure out who I want to coat these, since they're mild steel. I could coat them myself, I've done it before, just have to get the coatings again.
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post #43 of 138 Old 12-03-2015, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Overkilled the shit out of a valve cover notch tonight. Might have to grab another valve cover next time I'm in the yard and do it over, but it's purely cosmetic at this point. The rocker arms have plenty of clearance.

This is a Gen2 valve cover-it doesn't *really* fit on the head. The two bottom valve cover bolts do not line up, and they use a different style of bolt to hold them down. They DO clear the alternator, though.



This is the un-modified Gen3 valve cover, before I started chopping. The black cut line would make it the same height as the Gen2 cover.



Well, now it clears the alternator....I didn't realize at the time I was marking it up that I was taking a BIG chunk. Oh well, it's painted black, and I can't see it from the driver's seat.



Another gratuitous header shot-this time they're on the engine. I still haven't done much with the other side, yet.



Maybe more tomorrow.
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post #44 of 138 Old 12-03-2015, 08:54 AM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Late night moddin' caused a simple mis-measurement on that valve cover?

Getting better with every failure



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post #45 of 138 Old 12-03-2015, 09:40 AM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Awesome project and fab work.

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post #46 of 138 Old 12-03-2015, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

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Late night moddin' caused a simple mis-measurement on that valve cover?
Nah, I just cut along the factory notch, hopefully I don't have to un-notch it. later. It really should have been checked before I cut it, but it's not like I can't just walk into the junkyard and pick up a dozen valve covers for a dollar. These things are everywhere.

What really shits me though is that the driver's side cover is cast in a wrinkle finish, but the passenger side cover only comes cast smooth. WTF GM?? On the same engine, two different cast finishes on the valve covers.
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post #47 of 138 Old 12-03-2015, 06:50 PM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

It just sounded like the shit that gets me. I'll stay in the shop or garage until the wee hours because I can't leave it alone. I'll make some stupid mistake that guarantees I won't get to my intended stopping point and that's when I decide to call it a night.

That's funny about the mismatched valve cover finishes. I can't think of ANY reason for that.

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post #48 of 138 Old 01-18-2016, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

So I haven't forgotten about this, just haven't done much. It is 9 degrees in the shop right now....

I had to bash that valve cover back out to clear the rocker arm for that cylinder, but eh. It'll clear now.

Lower intake is on, taped up, and the exhaust manifold bits are scattered around the shop. I need a few more exhaust bends to do the job but I can get the headers finished up after that.

Pushrods got made, cam is dialed in and blower is mounted.

Still need to make blower idler pulleys and brackets, intercooler lines, and oil cooler lines.

And I need an S10 water pump pulley, I think I have the stuff around to make one but I don't want to. I might borrow the one off my truck and put it back later.
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post #49 of 138 Old 02-05-2016, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

So I've spent a little time on this and gotten to this stage of the game:



A few more bits of tubing bent and a couple of welds will have the intake manifold completely finished, and then it's time to finish up the exhaust manifolds.

Once the exhaust is done, it'll be on to finishing up the belt drive.

So in the mean time, I've started on the wiring harness. I've only had to lengthen a few wires, most of them have been too long actually. I am making plans to fit the 4L60e auto trans later when the manual blows up, the wiring harness already supports it and so does the ECU, so why not? If I didn't have to use the truck regularly for a while I'd convert it to automatic right from the start-but I do use it and thus being able to tune the engine and transmission independently (even when the stock factory auto tune is still in the computer) is a bonus. I am not 100% sure that the transmission control code will enjoy the 2-bar map sensor code, because it hasn't been tested yet. The test vehicle the code was tested on was a turbo-manual, so we're kinda just guessing at the auto control side of things. It *should* still work OK...



Have to add a switched power circuit and a power ground, already have the two sensor grounds and two sensor signals for the O2 sensors. They'll be along the trans wiring harness, as the exhaust runs down that side of the car already. The VSS sensor is also in that section, but someone got to it with snips before I pulled the harness. I have another connector, but I have no idea how much of the wiring was cut out with it, so I'll probably have to add some back once it's in the truck.

Getting down to it, It is starting to feel like I would have a far easier time of things if I just added an "engine" fuse/relay block to source all the switched power from. The truck harness has three fused circuits for the ECU, but the camaro harness has five, plus the one I add for the heated O2 sensors, plus the automatic uses two fuses. Total fused circuits is now up to 9, and while some things (like injector power circuits, they're split) I am ok running from a single fuse, other things (like the torque converter clutch solenoid) I'd prefer to have their own fused circuit.

The interior connectors haven't been too terrible so far-Only one of them is a power circuit, the starter line is superfluous so no worries there, the automatic gear select wiring is nicely seperated out from the dash harness in the Camaro so I just ordered the section of harness from ebay for that, along with the gear selector from a 1994 Oldsmobile Bravada (console shifter in those, "luxury" SUV version of the truck) and now I'm hunting a console from a Blazer or Bravada, (or a bucket seat truck console but those are rare) and some seats and seat brackets from the Bravada or Blazer.

Scope Of Work is creeping up now...I need to hurry up and get this engine in before it gets away from me!
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post #50 of 138 Old 02-07-2016, 12:47 AM
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Re: 1991 S10 Parts Hauler rebuild-turned-ridiculous

Good God man, what is this madness? This thing is beautiful, keep it up!
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