zhillz's SAS thread

[zhillz]

After yesterday i want my truck done NOW! So **** it, im breakin out the card and going to town.


*IM ORDERING STUFF IN THE NEXT FEW DAYS SO CAN YALL MAKE SURE IM ORDERING THE RIGHT STUFF LOL*

INFO
TRUCK: 98 automatic extended cab s10 with vortec 4.3 4x4


AXLES: High Pinion Dana 44 and 9" from late 70s Bronco



The goal: 10" of lift all spring in front and 35-37s
The setup:
I perfer to run leafs and the axles i got are set up for them so im good to go.
--------more info to come----------


Gears: $385
Part Number: KITFD9D44485R

• 77-84 Ford 9in. Rear and Dana 44 Reverse Front 4.88 Gear Package
• Rear Ring And Pinion Set
• Rear Master Installation Kit
• Front Ring And Pinion Set
• Front Master Installation Kit
• May Require Differential Carrier Case Change Not Included

Locker:
Front- $750
Part Number: OXLOXD44C392H

• Ox Cable Actuated Ox Brand Locker, Dana 44, 3.92 UP 30 Spline

REAR- 9" came with spool
Ok i learned the ratchetin lockers like detriots are locked when you accelerate..Well since i have an automatic wont it always be locked?

Springs: I dont want a harsh ride so im stayin away from fullsize truck springs how about springs from a 79-85 yota? will soa and 5" lift springs get me 10" im not a fan of huge shackles.

Steering:
this is where i dont feel comfortable and need input! i have no steering parts should i get this kit for a 79 bronco its only $60



Part Number: EXPFD400

• Pitman Arm
• 4 in. Drop

When lifted, the drag link attachment point needs to be moved down to reduce link angle, creating the need for a drop pitman arm.; Pitman Arm; 4 in. Drop; Steering correction

Brakes:
Do i need anything special to get my brakes to work on these axles?

The tierod end was cut off my knuckle so i will need 1 new one for sure. When i was searching i was findin people rubbing on the springs leafs and soa. Should i get the highsteer knuckles or flatop w/e they are called.




For the things i listed im ordering from http://www.4wheelparts.com/ because they are local and will save a lot in shipping everything else ill need to find (or you ) the best price.

[ChrisInVT]

[chevyrules05]

Quote: Originally Posted by ChrisInVT

x2

[Tim99Zr2]

do full high steer, or cross over. you could prob buy a tie rod for a D44 but you may need to make your drag link (i dunno if it would be the same length as a bronco or not.

but worry about drive line / steering last.

and im not sure about your brake lines. def need to be long ones. with that much lift.

and i would perfer to run at least a 6" shackle. i think mine are too short.

[Tim99Zr2]

cant wait to see ANOTHER SAS thread, man these keep poppin up! i think we'll need our own section.

[Donahue]

my front shackles are at 5" and they seem to be good. if you are running leafs SOA you are going to have trouble running a ford style steering linkage. they run an inverted T style, where the drag link runs into the tie rod. this is because they are coil and have nothing in front of the axle to get in the way. i would look into getting a flat top knuckle and running it that way with a high steer arm. if you plan on doing any wheeling, make or get made something better than oem linkage. the stock stuff is worthless off road.

also, auto lockers like the detroit are locked in when there is throttle input. when you are just cruising down the freeway there is no real input, just cruising. acceleration is defined by the change in velocity, so basically when you are getting up to speed or braking. this also only applies when the hubs are locked in. i wouldnt say you needed the ox locker, but i will say you will probably never reget it, i wish i had a selectable up front.

one thing i forgot to ask, you say the axles are from a late 70's bronco, does that mean 78 or 79? i assume it does because those are the only broncos that would have come with a Hp44 front. in that case, good luck running leafs up front. you will have to run u-bolts around the radius arm wedges, they cannot be cut off because they are hollow and there is no axle tube under them.

[Merritj2417]

*subscribes

[zhillz]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

my front shackles are at 5" and they seem to be good. if you are running leafs SOA you are going to have trouble running a ford style steering linkage. they run an inverted T style, where the drag link runs into the tie rod. this is because they are coil and have nothing in front of the axle to get in the way. i would look into getting a flat top knuckle and running it that way with a high steer arm. if you plan on doing any wheeling, make or get made something better than oem linkage. the stock stuff is worthless off road.

also, auto lockers like the detroit are locked in when there is throttle input. when you are just cruising down the freeway there is no real input, just cruising. acceleration is defined by the change in velocity, so basically when you are getting up to speed or braking. this also only applies when the hubs are locked in. i wouldnt say you needed the ox locker, but i will say you will probably never reget it, i wish i had a selectable up front.

one thing i forgot to ask, you say the axles are from a late 70's bronco, does that mean 78 or 79? i assume it does because those are the only broncos that would have come with a Hp44 front. in that case, good luck running leafs up front. you will have to run u-bolts around the radius arm wedges, they cannot be cut off because they are hollow and there is no axle tube under them.

Do you know everything? lol you are the man. Yeah they have to be from those years its HP and disk brakes. I was lookin but i need to make measurements but my fram should be a lot more narrow then where the wedges are.

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by zhillz

Do you know everything? lol you are the man. Yeah they have to be from those years its HP and disk brakes. I was lookin but i need to make measurements but my fram should be a lot more narrow then where the wedges are.

the front of the frame is, but where the shackles would go (in a reverse shackle setup like most people do) the frame is much wider. i have my spacing set at 31.5" and my drivers side perch is already up on the diff halfway, and i had to cut a groove for the inside u-bolt, which is larger similar to the way that chevy's come stock. any narrower and the perch would be completely on the diff.

[chevyrules05]

when you get done with yours i am taking a road trip and you can do mine

[Brandon H.]

Very nice man, I dont live to far from ya, let me know if ya need a hand. I have a HP Dana 30 and a ford 8.8 with 4.10's I will be putting in mine soon

[Tim99Zr2]

pssh. so many floridians..

i just put my name in american pavers for a welder / fabricator position. starting 16-20$ / hr.

[zhillz]

Hey im trying to check out and i need to know real quick! What the hell is reverse cut when talkin about the axles and how do i know?

[Donahue]

it basically means high pinion or low pinion. low pinion is regular cut, high pinion is "reverse cut", though that is not a fully correct term, but it gets the job done and people know what you mean.

[zhillz]

I didnt know i couldnt edit my post so i have a lot of BS i would like removed from the first post please.Im not going with the ox for the front im leaving it open.


I ordered most of the stuff tonight!!!


I got 5" leaf springs for a first gen toyota all around with perches shackles and bushings- 800
ordered the 4.88s and extended break lines- 500
Flatop knuckles -500

I guess im waiting till im done to measure stuff to find out what shocks i need.

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by zhillz

I didnt know i couldnt edit my post so i have a lot of BS i would like removed from the first post please.Im not going with the ox for the front im leaving it open.


I ordered most of the stuff tonight!!!


I got 5" leaf springs for a first gen toyota all around with perches shackles and bushings- 800
ordered the 4.88s and extended break lines- 500
Flatop knuckles -500

I guess im waiting till im done to measure stuff to find out what shocks i need.

you spent $500 on flat top knuckles? i dont even have that much in my whole front end.

[zhillz]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

you spent $500 on flat top knuckles? i dont even have that much in my whole front end.

the whole steering setup i didnt want to but my passanger side is ****ed.

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by zhillz

the whole steering setup i didnt want to but my passanger side is ****ed.

tell me more...

[zhillz]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

tell me more...

highsteer arms and new draglink or w/e its called. i need to find a tierod still. These where the cheapest i could find except for sending them off but mine was torched away...

[Donahue]

you went full high steer? did you get new knuckles?

[zhillz]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

you went full high steer? did you get new knuckles?

Yeah thats what was 500 for brand new knuckles

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by zhillz

Yeah thats what was 500 for brand new knuckles

now, have you researched spindles and hubs? likely the new knuckles you have will have a 6 bolt spindle similar to jeep/chevy/dodge, and not like your current 5 bolt spindles that ford uses. now if i remember correctly, if your goal is to run the ford 5 lug pattern, you may need to run a chevy spindle, but a specific one (i think something like the small bearing one) to be able to reuse your ford hubs and rotors. chevy brakes may also be needed. now with all of this, i have been making assumptions that may or may not be true about the parts you bought.

how much do you know about the parts you bought?

[zhillz]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

now, have you researched spindles and hubs? likely the new knuckles you have will have a 6 bolt spindle similar to jeep/chevy/dodge, and not like your current 5 bolt spindles that ford uses. now if i remember correctly, if your goal is to run the ford 5 lug pattern, you may need to run a chevy spindle, but a specific one (i think something like the small bearing one) to be able to reuse your ford hubs and rotors. chevy brakes may also be needed. now with all of this, i have been making assumptions that may or may not be true about the parts you bought.

how much do you know about the parts you bought?

No no no...They are FORD knuckles and have the 5 lug pattern ...

1 x Ford Left Heavy Duty Flat Top Dana 44 Steering Knuckle

[Donahue]

ok, i just want to make sure you werent getting screwed.

[zhillz]

writing down a list so i dont ferget stuff and see if anything pops up.Alrighty i have my request in for days off of work so hopefully then end of the september it will be done!

Parts list i have:
Flattop knuckles -Reid racing

4.88 with install kit - 4wheelparts of Tampa

5" toyota lift springs -Marlin Crawler

hanger kit f&r with crossmember -Marlin Crawler

extended brake lines - Procomp (4wheelparts)

Highsteer arms/tubing 3/4 GM TRE/4"drop pitman arm - 4wdfactory (ordered today)

ubolts and hardware - 4wdfactory

NEED:
the brake lines come in pairs of 2 so i need another set
hubs
break pads
TIRES!
?astro box? idk yet.
lots of paint. Any tips here? I want to do my whole frame and axles i was thinkin rustoleum. The only write up i found used tractor paint and it takes a couple of days to dry so f that.
my 4wd isnt engaging...so ill need to tackle that asap. Perfect timing with the write up Donahue!

[dickeydoo]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

you will have to run u-bolts around the radius arm wedges, they cannot be cut off because they are hollow and there is no axle tube under them.

I thought 79's had a tube in them and the 78's didnt....

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by dickeydoo

I thought 79's had a tube in them and the 78's didnt....

77.5-79 have the poor tubs, but only in the coil sprung axles. anything pre 77.5 is good.

Quote: Originally Posted by zhillz

writing down a list so i dont ferget stuff and see if anything pops up.Alrighty i have my request in for days off of work so hopefully then end of the september it will be done!

Parts list i have:
Flattop knuckles -Reid racing

4.88 with install kit - 4wheelparts of Tampa

5" toyota lift springs -Marlin Crawler

hanger kit f&r with crossmember -Marlin Crawler

extended brake lines - Procomp (4wheelparts)

Highsteer arms/tubing 3/4 GM TRE/4"drop pitman arm - 4wdfactory (ordered today)

ubolts and hardware - 4wdfactory

NEED:
the brake lines come in pairs of 2 so i need another set
hubs
break pads
TIRES!
?astro box? idk yet.
lots of paint. Any tips here? I want to do my whole frame and axles i was thinkin rustoleum. The only write up i found used tractor paint and it takes a couple of days to dry so f that.
my 4wd isnt engaging...so ill need to tackle that asap. Perfect timing with the write up Donahue!

the write up is old, check the date on the first post. i painted my frame/axles with rustoleum and krylon, both with rattle cans. out of the two i would go with the krylon over the rustoleum, because of the better tip. it dries in less than an hour, and that is for a heavy coat.

also, what TRE's did you get? (looking for part numbers)

[4wdjoey]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

also, what TRE's did you get? (looking for part numbers)

the kit uses 3/4 ton chevy TREs.
1 es2234L
1 es2027L
2 es2234R

[Donahue]

ah.

i run (4) 2234R's

[4wdjoey]

...and the pitman arm is reamed to fit the 2027L.

[Donahue]