U-Joint replacement?? - S-10 Forum
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post #1 of 64 Old 04-14-2006, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Question U-Joint replacement??

Hi all.

I haven't done one on an S-10 before but.......

Is changing the U-Joint at the rear-end easy?

It's giving a good squeak as it rotates these days (forward and reverse).

I thought I'd do it.

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post #2 of 64 Old 04-14-2006, 01:21 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Depends on whether you have the type that's held on with clips or the type that's held together with the nylon adhesive. If its the latter, you'll need a torch (minimum MAPP) and a joint press. If you think you can pound it out using a socket and hammer, think again.
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post #3 of 64 Old 04-14-2006, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Re: U-Joint replacement??

ppap,

Yep. I just took a better look and it looks stock, w/no clips. Looks like a dealer
job this time. Thanks.
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post #4 of 64 Old 04-15-2006, 10:38 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I've already been raped this week. I feel your pain.
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post #5 of 64 Old 04-15-2006, 06:03 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

i am doing some righ now on my truck... there is some plastic crap in there that holds them in.. you need to heat it up to get them out
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post #6 of 64 Old 04-15-2006, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Question Re: U-Joint replacement??

Yeah, but do you have to uset the same "adhesive" or does it hide the clip groove?

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post #7 of 64 Old 04-17-2006, 01:13 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

The replacement universal joint has grooves that are machined into the bearing cups. once the cups are pressed into position retaining clips are inserted into the grooves to keep them from backing out
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post #8 of 64 Old 04-17-2006, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by old s-10 owner
The replacement universal joint has grooves that are machined into the bearing cups. once the cups are pressed into position retaining clips are inserted into the grooves to keep them from backing out
I know how they are supposed to function, it's that the OEM driveshaft has the U-joint currently "flush" with the driveshaft housing. Actually the Cups of the OEM U-joint are just slightly outside of flush. So I didn't know for sure if the replacement cups would be set inside the outer edge of the housing and IF there was a ring-groove where the clips would fit.

I just bought the truck anyway and the dealer is going to fix it "comp" anyway. I just thought I'd do it myself to become "in touch" with the new vehicle...lol
At just a $11 part, I thought it'd be ok. I'll let the dealer do it and go from there.
Besides, I've got my only other car in a shop getting an engine replaced. Can't afford to have the truck disabled for more than a few hours right now.

Thanks.
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post #9 of 64 Old 04-17-2006, 10:20 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

The plastic crap is somewhat of a pain, but if you have a torch handy, its not too bad. I think I did all 3 of mine in about 2 hours (and alot of swearing )

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post #10 of 64 Old 04-18-2006, 02:27 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Mine take me half an hour to change. I would do it your self if you have a sleg hammer, a large socket.

Mark drive shaft and yoke.
Just take off the U-joint using a 7/16 wrench.
Slide the drive shaft out off tranny.
Remove retainer clips with flat screw driver.
Set the drive shaft on the large socket.
Remove U-joint.

Cy
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post #11 of 64 Old 04-18-2006, 02:06 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by scys
Mine take me half an hour to change. I would do it your self if you have a sleg hammer, a large socket.

Mark drive shaft and yoke.
Just take off the U-joint using a 7/16 wrench.
Slide the drive shaft out off tranny.
Remove retainer clips with flat screw driver.
Set the drive shaft on the large socket.
Remove U-joint.
Cy
You don't have the nylon adhesive type of u-joint. If you tried this method on it, you'd lose your hearing and damage the ears on the driveshaft.
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post #12 of 64 Old 04-19-2006, 03:39 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Good luck with that.

I'm glad I have the one with retainer clips. Even though I have to change them every 10 000 km.

Cy
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post #13 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 08:53 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by ppap
You don't have the nylon adhesive type of u-joint. If you tried this method on it, you'd lose your hearing and damage the ears on the driveshaft.
This is TRUE

I wish I had researched U-Joints before just jumping on them thinkin....ahhhh a few C-Clips and I will be done.


Nylon Injected will not come out with a hammer and socket...if they do YOUR VERY lucky.

I bent my 50yr old vise.

I tried a good size arbor press at my work.

I drilled the nylon nipples hang out of the u-joint and repeated the last step.

I took it up to the machine shop at my work and tried the 10k lb press HANGING on it.

Then a bell rang off in my head.

MELT THE EFFIN NYLON

One of the machine shop guys had mapp gas. I heated them up...the nylon oozes out of the holes like the black worm fireworks you light when I was a kid.

Back on the 10k press....LIKE BUTTA....slide right out now!

Cool down the drive shaft with come H20 and reinstalled the new ones.

The other thing that pissed me off was breaking the ujoint free from the rear end....I ended up using a pry bar then it broke free and jambed my elbow into a bolt under the truck, cutting it, then having the shaft wack me in the head

After that...I knew the rest of the night was going to be hell.
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post #14 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 09:01 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

So a propane torch will not get it huh??

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post #15 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 09:09 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95projectS-Dime
So a propane torch will not get it huh??
it takes some patience, but yes, it will work. people will tell you it wont, but i've done it. it works, you just gotta take your time and heat all the way around the hole. But for the price of a can of mapp, it will make your life alot easier. one more thing to add.... dont stand in front of the little holes when your doing it. Sometimes, if the little peg looking things get stuck in there pretty good, it will build a decent amount of pressure before it shoots molten hot nylon everywhere.

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post #16 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 09:14 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Where do I get the mapp gas at?

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post #17 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 09:21 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

any hardware store, possibly auto parts store should have it, TSC, harbor freight, etc.

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post #18 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 09:27 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I have to go to TSC in the morning to get some fence , so I will look then . Thanks for the info and the tip . But I will get burned , that is just my luck..lol

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post #19 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 11:17 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

wally world even has mapp

Yes good tip on the nubs flyin' out !

I had drilled my out in the previous atempts of removal..lol
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post #20 of 64 Old 05-20-2006, 02:08 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Whatever happens replace with Spicer u-joints so you don't have
to mess with it again for some time...
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post #21 of 64 Old 05-25-2006, 08:53 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Hey, the one thing I have learned is that with most u-joints there is an easy way and a median method. Take the driveshaft OUT. Buy the best you can get, i have no opinions, but spicer has always been good.

Then load this in the back of moms car and take it to the machine shop. They've got all the tools they need. No dealer visit needed. Charge at machine shop is for ujoint work only not removing and installing driveshaft. The lazy mans way of still saving money.
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post #22 of 64 Old 05-27-2006, 07:21 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Here is a link that you might interesting when it comes to changing
out u-joints with nylon insert locks..
http://www.thrashdriveshaft.com/q_an...veshaft.%20Why
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post #23 of 64 Old 05-27-2006, 10:49 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

lol thats really funny. best lessons are hard learned, or you could have asked, someone telling you to use a torch to melt the nylon would ave saved a ton of time

Yea my trucks got a few mods
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post #24 of 64 Old 05-27-2006, 11:23 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

ya but that link states NOT to melt them
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post #25 of 64 Old 05-30-2006, 05:21 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

and it says they need to be re balanced lol.... some people are just trying to take your money from you, thats all there is to it.

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post #26 of 64 Old 05-30-2006, 05:25 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Hmmm. I have straps, takes me about 15 min or less to change it out.... I do have a lot of expiriece changing them though I bust the shit out of them all the time, Knocking 2-3 ears off at a time..

Actually, I carry an extra one in the truck at all times, and the required tools to do it..LOL

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post #27 of 64 Old 10-09-2008, 03:46 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I'm just starting to get into my truck and how to repair things. So i have a split drive-shaft. And my center u-joint and rear u-joint just got replaced. I was told that my front u-joint didn't need to get replaced. My question is...
Having had the other two u-joints replaced...would it be a wise move to replace the other....or wait it out until i hear or see signs of it needing replacement? With that, would anyone recommend me getting my center bearing replaced on the driveshaft?

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post #28 of 64 Old 10-15-2008, 04:07 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by drizhosszle View Post
I'm just starting to get into my truck and how to repair things. So i have a split drive-shaft. And my center u-joint and rear u-joint just got replaced. I was told that my front u-joint didn't need to get replaced. My question is...
Having had the other two u-joints replaced...would it be a wise move to replace the other....or wait it out until i hear or see signs of it needing replacement? With that, would anyone recommend me getting my center bearing replaced on the driveshaft?
i was gonna ask the same question. can anyone answer him^^^

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post #29 of 64 Old 10-15-2008, 04:25 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I carry an extra rear U-Joint with me whenever I drive my truck... At this point, I can change an S-series U-join, on the side of the rode in 10 mins...lol

Seriously, Im not joking

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post #30 of 64 Old 10-16-2008, 02:11 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fast4by View Post
I carry an extra rear U-Joint with me whenever I drive my truck... At this point, I can change an S-series U-join, on the side of the rode in 10 mins...lol

Seriously, Im not joking
Sooo.....what would you say about MY u-joint situation?

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post #31 of 64 Old 10-16-2008, 05:48 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I paid a shop to heat up the u-joint and remove the old one. Then I used a dremel with a SANDING drum to clean out the rust and adhesive in the holes. Don't use a grinding wheel, it's too aggressive. Lightly sand out the rust until you get bare shiny metal. The new u-joint should slide right in without the use of a press. Mine replacement u-joint had the internal clips which keep everything from falling out. Get a u-joint with a zerk fitting and grease it regularly, and it will last forever.

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post #32 of 64 Old 03-10-2009, 08:48 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I have never changed one and I have been unable to find a writeup that walks you through it step by step. Is there one anywhere, preferably with pics?

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post #33 of 64 Old 03-10-2009, 10:15 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I just replaced mine this weekend..should've taken pics and stuff oh well...it's mainly just a pain in the ass trying to get the old ones out...GMs nylon injection process is garbage...I used a torch to heat up around the u-joint and the nylon would eventually get hot enough and start pouring out of the hole..after as much as I thought would come out I placed a socket on top on the u-joint and pounded it out..it takes a lil while but it will come out..just have to be careful not to damage the shaft or yokes...the new ones went right on no problem snap the clip on, grease up and go...
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post #34 of 64 Old 03-10-2009, 11:59 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

If you heat it from the backside, let that boil in there, and slowly work your way to the hole, the caps will usually pop out (and by pop I mean fly across to the other side of the shop!). Just don't stand in the way if you choose this method.
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post #35 of 64 Old 03-11-2009, 12:55 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petro View Post
I used a torch to heat up around the u-joint and the nylon would eventually get hot enough and start pouring out of the hole
Did you use a regular cutting torch or MAPP gas? I have a small propane torch, but read about using the MAPP gas. Lowes has it for like 6 bucks. Now the hole that the nylon comes out is the one with the little plastic type peg sticking out right? Also, what kind did you get? I called NAPA to check on them and axle bearings. They said I needed to know what size ring gear I have for the bearings and I'm not sure. Also, they said there is a variation on the u-joints so I'm not sure which to get. I have all my RPO codes and I'm going to decipher them tomorrow, but I don't know if ring gear size is in there or not.

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post #36 of 64 Old 03-11-2009, 05:04 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drjeffro View Post
Did you use a regular cutting torch or MAPP gas? I have a small propane torch, but read about using the MAPP gas. Lowes has it for like 6 bucks. Now the hole that the nylon comes out is the one with the little plastic type peg sticking out right? Also, what kind did you get? I called NAPA to check on them and axle bearings. They said I needed to know what size ring gear I have for the bearings and I'm not sure. Also, they said there is a variation on the u-joints so I'm not sure which to get. I have all my RPO codes and I'm going to decipher them tomorrow, but I don't know if ring gear size is in there or not.

I just used a small propane torch...Yes the hole the nylon comes out of is the one with the plastic type peg sticking out..The name of the u-joint was materpro..and they had a precision brand..spicer would be best IMO..you have a 7 5/8 ring gear but that doesn't really matter...measure the cap size yourself...I bought mine at Oreilly's along with a new complete center support bearing..Just told them the year, make, model and they had it all in stock..
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post #37 of 64 Old 03-11-2009, 12:16 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I appreciate it. I will do some measurements today.

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post #38 of 64 Old 05-13-2009, 08:27 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petro View Post
I just used a small propane torch...Yes the hole the nylon comes out of is the one with the plastic type peg sticking out..The name of the u-joint was materpro..and they had a precision brand..spicer would be best IMO..you have a 7 5/8 ring gear but that doesn't really matter...measure the cap size yourself...I bought mine at Oreilly's along with a new complete center support bearing..Just told them the year, make, model and they had it all in stock..
Would it be possible to drill it out, maybe with a strong bit that's the same diameter as the hole?

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post #39 of 64 Old 05-13-2009, 08:34 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

that small hole is where it is injected and it goes all around the joint, just drilling that end out won't do a thing for you, it has to be heated and melted out.
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post #40 of 64 Old 05-13-2009, 08:43 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

What the above post said...there is a small groove on the inside of the yoke where the injected nylon stays..must be melted and beat/pressed out...

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post #41 of 64 Old 09-28-2009, 10:08 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Just did my rear u-joint today. '02 S-10 4wd 92,000 mi. Thanks to all the posts, I felt confident enough to tackle it. It was squeaking really bad. Only when moving, not in neutral or park. Took about 2 hrs. Most time spent finding right combonation of tools for the job. Wasn't a bad job, at all. If anyone wants specific info from my experience, let me know. I would like to know if anyone knows how much a garage would charge for the same job. Just curious. Hats off to everyone who left a post!
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post #42 of 64 Old 09-29-2009, 10:12 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I just did my rear u-joint yesterday it also had the nylon injection. Just be careful when heating them because I found out when you get it to hot it will blow the seal apart in the u-joint. It will scare the crap out of you if you are not expecting it. Also if you use the Duralast u-joints be aware that the clip does not go in the hole where the old u joint sat. The clips actually go to the inside of your new joint.

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post #43 of 64 Old 02-20-2010, 12:46 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I know this is an old thread. Does anyone have the torque specs for the rear u-joint bolts. 2003 2.2 5 sp single shaft.
Thanks
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post #44 of 64 Old 02-20-2010, 01:04 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

My bad. I forgot i posted this already. I don't seem to be able to edit or remove my post. Sorry. Could a Mod remove the post above this one and this one? Thanks.

Last edited by nstoolman1; 02-20-2010 at 01:08 PM.
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post #45 of 64 Old 03-16-2010, 04:03 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Make sure whenever you work on a car it is on a 100% flat grade. I have seen a shock tower embedded in the skull of a person who was working on a hill (for more room under the vehicle) and forgot to chock the tires and set the e-brake. When he knocked off the shaft, the vehicle (which was held in place by the parking pin in the trans which holds the shaft of which olds the rear axle from moving, etc.) drove the shock tower into his brain and subsequently made it the last repair of his life.

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post #46 of 64 Old 03-17-2010, 05:12 AM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

^^sweet

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post #47 of 64 Old 03-21-2010, 12:35 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I've got a situation with my 01 blazer (~150k miles) and I'm kinda torn between replacing the wheel bearing on the front right or if it may be the u-joints on the drive-shaft going bad.

(Situation)
When backing up, there is a slight squeaking as if the brake pads' squealer tabs are rubbing against the rotor. Pads are at or above 60% life left without any abnormal wear. The noise seems to come from the front end.

Then, and this may be a separate issue, sometimes upon acceleration (only under load), there is a metallic clicking noise. The noise gets worse if kept under accel, but seems to go away while coasting. If the noise starts, it's usually under 20mph and will continue until after around 50mph when it goes away.

(Begin Diag)
I removed the right front wheel, caliper, and rotor and spun the hub by hand. It makes a sound as if the brake pads were dragging against the rotor. Not horrible, but noticeable, and the hub doesn't spin with much freedom. I'm not really familiar with what it would feel like new, so I'm kind of in the dark.

Sorry for the novel, but hopefully it's enough specifics that someone will be able to steer me in the right direction

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post #48 of 64 Old 03-22-2010, 01:03 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I would try pulling the hub and spinning it without the axle being involved next.

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post #49 of 64 Old 04-07-2010, 01:30 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

I'm trying to do the U-joint replacement. However, I can't get the drive-shaft to slide forward so I can drop it out. It's a '97 5spd single shaft. I removed the two half-moon caps from the rear u-joint but the drive-shaft won't slide forward. I thought it should slide easily, how much force should it take? Does this mean my slip joint at the transmission is seized up? (It drove fine before I started this project, it was just making a squealing noise under load)
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post #50 of 64 Old 04-07-2010, 07:02 PM
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Re: U-Joint replacement??

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaintRush View Post
(Situation)
When backing up, there is a slight squeaking as if the brake pads' squealer tabs are rubbing against the rotor. Pads are at or above 60% life left without any abnormal wear. The noise seems to come from the front end.
I had the same noise from my rear, but only when backing up. Unfortunately, it only lasted about 3 days before my the U joint locked completely up. Now I have to replace the rear pinion and bearing. Hopefully nothing else in the rear end (I haven't opened it yet).

Anyway, back on topic. I changed the nylon U joint using a small propane torch, socket, vise, and sledge. The propane torch takes a while to get it hot enough, but it will work.

cb10204, is the ujoint loose? Sometimes they're in there pretty good. I've had to pry them pretty hard before they pop out of their seats on the pinion.
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