I finally got my posi!

[ChrisInVT]

Straight out of an F-Body

It's a series 3 so my 4.11's will go on there without a spacer

I put that bolt back in where it's supposed to go, now it just needs a bit of a cleaning.

Not bad for $90 shipped, although I don't have a clue where that c-shim thing goes...

[lt1s10onair]

thats a c-clip... thats what holds the axles in... after you pull the cover, and ur brakes, you remove the 8mm bolt that holds in the cross pin... then push the axle shafts inward and it exposes the c-clips... pull the clips out with a magnet, and ur axles come right out

[ChrisInVT]

Can ya tell I've never messed with a carrier before?

[King_Ice_Flash2]

Yeah, you probably don't want to forget that clip. From what I can tell, it won't end well.
Also, please replace that threaded pin when you re-install it.

Is it an Auburn?

[MINTSICK]

You're going to replace the carrier bearings/races with new bearings right?

[King_Ice_Flash2]

I was more concerned with him working with the crush sleeve and shims to get the gear mesh and pre-load correct.

[MINTSICK]

Quote: Originally Posted by King_Ice_Flash2

I was more concerned with him working with the crush sleeve and shims to get the gear mesh and pre-load correct.

It needs all of that yes, but if those carrier bearings are junk all of that won't matter. Cheap insurance to put fresh bearings/races when possible.

[tippmann243]

this is gonna end in disaster.

he dosent even know what a c clips is, so he prolly dont know how to set up pinion preload and or backlash.

[King_Ice_Flash2]

Quote: Originally Posted by tippmann243

this is gonna end in disaster.

he dosent even know what a c clips is, so he prolly dont know how to set up pinion preload and or backlash.

Don't discourage him...

[tippmann243]

Quote: Originally Posted by King_Ice_Flash2

Don't discourage him...

k ill just sit here and wait for the "my rear end howls" thread

[lowxpectationz20]

i did one not too long ago in an 8.5 i found a nice little how too, but not sure where i found it. this one is pretty helpful too, but you may want to enlist some help of somone whos done it before. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...all/index.html

[King_Ice_Flash2]

I was hoping more for a "my rear end locked up and sent drive shaft shrapnel into my gas tank thread."

[lowxpectationz20]

nah i wont let that happen if i have to sit on the phone and explain it step by step. over and over..atleast ill try real hard to not let it happen haha!

[NotaDime]

Quote: Originally Posted by King_Ice_Flash2

I was hoping more for a "my rear end locked up and sent drive shaft shrapnel into my gas tank thread."

[lowxpectationz20]

man are you guys more or less telling this guy hes going to fail before he even trys? Why not try to help him out? If you dont know how to do it, then dont post. a rear end is an expensive thing to **** up.

[tippmann243]

Quote: Originally Posted by lowxpectationz20

man are you guys more or less telling this guy hes going to fail before he even trys? Why not try to help him out? If you dont know how to do it, then dont post. a rear end is an expensive thing to **** up.

ive done gear setups. they arent bad. i did the gears in my 8.5 in the truck in an hour.

but this guy obviously has no clue what he is doing. if he dont know what a c clip is and what its for how is he going to be able to set the pinion preload or know that its a rotational reading, meaning the reading needs to be taken while the torque wrench is spinning. also how is he going to know how tight to preload the carrier bearings and how to properly shim it to get the gear mesh/backlash correct?

im not trying to be an ass hole but ive had to many people come into my shop asking me why there rear end howls after they replaced the carrier bearings. or why there is slop in the pinion after they replaced the pinion seal. or why an axle fell out when the used parts form 3 different rear ends to make a good one from their truck. or people dont understand why after they had the rear end together and apart 5 times that once it was right after 500 miles it howled like crazy since the pinion nut backed off.

[lowxpectationz20]

you are correct but with the right amount of reasearch he could do it. i belive anyone can if they pay close enough attention to the small details in doing there research. thats how i figured it out. id never done it before, and I havent had any issues yet, but i also had all the proper tools, and all the time in the world to fallow instructions step by step.

[King_Ice_Flash2]

I would say a good 75% of auto shops won't even touch a rear end. Swapping just the carriers isn't a big deal, usually you don't even have to shim them, but gears get pretty tough and require some specialized equipment, like a dial indicator and a very fine torque wrench.

I also give you a whole lot of credit for your patience.

[tippmann243]

Quote: Originally Posted by King_Ice_Flash2

I would say a good 75% of auto shops won't even touch a rear end. Swapping just the carriers isn't a big deal, usually you don't even have to shim them, but gears get pretty tough and require some specialized equipment, like a dial indicator and a very fine torque wrench.

I also give you a whole lot of credit for your patience.

its hit and miss. ive seen people replace an open carrier for a posi unit andjust throw it in there and have the backlash be within spec.

then ive seen people replace carrier bearings and the gear mesh is so tight you cant even turn the pinion by hand.

you are correct most shops wont touch a rear end especially a 7.625. the way the gears are cut/manufactured for them make them super sensative. the 4.56's i put in my 10 bolt howled on the coast side of things at highway speed. my mesh was perfect and the backlash was dead nuts on. but there was nothing i could do about it.

[lowxpectationz20]

Quote: Originally Posted by tippmann243

its hit and miss. ive seen people replace an open carrier for a posi unit andjust throw it in there and have the backlash be within spec.

then ive seen people replace carrier bearings and the gear mesh is so tight you cant even turn the pinion by hand.

you are correct most shops wont touch a rear end especially a 7.625. the way the gears are cut/manufactured for them make them super sensative. the 4.56's i put in my 10 bolt howled on the coast side of things at highway speed. my mesh was perfect and the backlash was dead nuts on. but there was nothing i could do about it.

4.56s in the 7 .625 was probably a blast! haha. I am really considering holding onto that 8.5 ive got. Its gota 2.56 gear in it, but its posi, and it would sure cure my highway issues with the 3 speed. I cant stand the 65 mph at 3100 rpms.

[Mitch]

Quote: Originally Posted by tippmann243

k ill just sit here and wait for the "my rear end howls" thread

OMG

haha . Perf!

[camaro1]

everyone needs to start somewhere, i would suggest you do a lot of reading up on gear installs figure out all the tools you will need before you start the project

this is the min tools you will need to do a correct gear install:

-shop press
-bearing splitter
-dial indicator (.001")
-slide calipers
-beam style inch pound torque wrench
-good 1/2" impact
-air hammer with blunt/pointed end
-gm yellow gear marking compound(i have found this to be the best)
-bearing race driver set
-pinion depth tool(if you want to get pinion depth correct the first time)


get all your new bearings installed on the carrier, and press a new large pinion bearing on your pinion gear using the factory pinion shim that came off your old pinion gear to start with

-remove the pinion bearing races from the housing and drive in new races
-install the small pinion bearing and seal to the housing
-install the pinion gear with new crush washer, set pinion bearing pre-load to 15-20 inch#'s(if using a pinion depth tool, hold off on the crush washer till you get it set perfect, then install the crush washer)
-set pinion depth(i use a pinion depth tool if the gears have the pinion depth or installed depth marked on them) or wait and use the pattern to determine pinion depth
-install and keep case bearing pre-load and keep backlash in spec set ring gear backlash to .005"-.008"
-get a good gear pattern and remove everything and start over if your pattern is not correct

i have been doing ring and pinion installs for 16 years now and have fixed many peoples messes after they tried to do it themselves,

also a crush washer is a 1 time use only

[sdimedragginbody]

rear ends are not bad as long as you know somewhat what you are doing.... i leatned from our drag car and watching my dad set one up.... as long as you got the right tools to work with and to check your lash it is not bad man.... but if it is your first one i would say take it to someone and have them explain/show you about one and learn.... i tought my buddy on his 02 TA WS6 how to do one and he is very happy..... oh and i only see one c-clip.... you need two... one for each axel....


dont rush it because if you do you will just have to do it over again.... or if you like wining....

[Svtzx555]

I don't have much experience with rear ends, but I thought if you just threw in a carrier that most likely nothing would change. I know its still a good idea to check the backlash afterwards, but this is why I had the rear end guy at work build my 8.8.

[ChrisInVT]

Holy shit, some assholes really came outta the woodwork here.




I thank the guys willing to shell out some advise though, it's appreciated.

This won't get installed for some time, I can guarantee that it's more than likely going to sit in my garage for a few months before I decide to have it put in. When it's time to put it in, I more than likely won't be doing all the work, but will be assisting in the install.

I've never touched a rearend before, so I'm not sure I want to start experimenting with this one. I don't mess with transmissions either, other than the occasional fluid and filter change.