How to: Change Clutch 96-2003 2.2 and 4.3 5speed

[wtbman]

Replacing my clutch in a 1998 Chevy S-10 was a nightmare. I would definetely raise the body if I did it again because the tranny hits the bottom of the body. Probably why so many people have trouble getting it back on because the motor tilts back up. We got it up by prying the engine down and shoving the tranny back on. Now to make things worse I didn't know you should replace the slave cylinder and now the shop is telling me that is why I can't shift well. 2 days of work with my Uncle completely wasted since it would have cost the same to have them replace it all. Now I don't have time to pull it apart again. To top off my day of bad news I got a giant rock chip in my windshield...

[sir dragsalot]

is it any harder to do change a clutch on a 94 dyme that has been bodydropped traditional

[sir dragsalot]

is it any harder to do change a clutch on a 94 dyme that has been bodydropped traditional

[Psychropod]

Quote: Originally Posted by BadS15v8

Mine slid right in with me and my brother (240lbs together) on our back with the crossmember still in and the truck still on the ground (No lift only sitting on stock suspension and 31's). Tranny went right in all the way, flush, with no tightning bolts side to side. No problems at all.

I'm assuming that your truck is a 4x4, because it's sitting on 31's. Am I correct? It's possible that it's easier on a 4x4 truck.

[colgate10]

I just did the clutch on my 98 2.2 manual


1. You do not have the remove the shifter from the cab. There are four bolts holding the shifter down, you can reach them from underneath the truck after the crossmember is out of the way. Taking that shifter boot off from the cab was NOT NECESSARY!!

2. Make sure your new slave is the right height and dimension. (I found out the hard way!)
3. Tie up that clutch pedal, DO NOT let anything depress it and let air into the system!
4. Bleed, bleed, bleed. Its better to take your time and bleed it good once than be stranded on the road because your hurried!

This is coming from someone who assisted and took the time to observe!

[tsayyote]

Thanks for the write up. It worked for me up until I had to get the 2 top tranny bolts. It took me about 30 min to break the driver side loose but with all the fuel lines and crap in the way on the passenger side, I couldn't get the damn thing loose. Had to have it towed to a mechanic.

Of course the bolt size of the tranny to engine bolts is 18mm, which didn't come in my set of sockets. Go figure.

[tntmafias10]

thanks guys this has been tons of help. Right now im preparing my truck to take out the 2.2 and finding a donar to swap it in. And I was also going to just pull the engine with the tranny out, but after reading all your guy's posts i think ill reconsider.

[Reed]

Hi guys, I"m a first time poster here and just wanted to to say thanks for all the info. Very informative.

I recently bought a '97 2.2l w/ 170k mi with a bad clutch. I did not have to buy a manual thanks to S10 Forums.

Anyway, I just got the trans on the ground in about 3 hours by myself. Boy, This was a little tougher than i anticipated even after reading this whole thread. The worst was disconnecting the wiring harness and getting to the upper bell housing bolts. But with a little effort I got them off in no time.

A few things that really helped were:

Someone mentioned not taking off the shifter boot to take off the shifter. I have to totally agree. It was really easy to take off the shifter from under the car.

Someone else said to use a pair of vise grips and a 17mm hex head bolt if you don't have a 17mm Allen socket. Well, I could not find my 17mm oil plug socket but i had plenty of 17mm hex bolts. I did use a small pipe wrench on the hex bolt instead of Vise Grips.

For the bell housing bolts I used a 1/2 drive breaker bar with about a 1.5 foot worth of extensions and a 18mm wobble socket

Did i mention I hate 18mm tools and how there is no American equivalent
I almost forgot to ask, /what is the average life of a Slave Cylinder? Mine is not leaking, but i am on a budget and I really don't have the extra cash to get the slave cyl. Do you guys think i could get away with not changing it or will it just bite me in the ass later?

Anyway, Just want to say thanks and to share my story.

Reed

[MPETESS10]

IT WILL BITE YOU. on my 4.3 I did the clutch at 107k and the slave went 15k later. I just did a clutch on my truck again (long story) 2 years ago at 169k and now with only 11k on the new clutch the slave is starting to act up again.

do it now and save the headache

[Reed]

Quote: Originally Posted by MPETESS10

IT WILL BITE YOU. on my 4.3 I did the clutch at 107k and the slave went 15k later. I just did a clutch on my truck again (long story) 2 years ago at 169k and now with only 11k on the new clutch the slave is starting to act up again.

do it now and save the headache

Ya, I went to the parts store and got one, Will be stabbing it tomorrow. Thanks for the input.

Reed

[redtruckagogogo]

3 quarts of syncromesh, NV1500 transmission,96 and up.

[cb_s10]

just did my slave cylinder on my 99 s10 2.2..they guy i got it from did a clutch recently but no slave...so i had to replace it...was actually pretty easy

[AdamRice]

I have to replace the clutch on my 1995 S10 with a 4.3L.

Is the procedure that much different, because I think the 95 has the Borg Warner T5, but all of you are referring to a NVxxxx transmission.

[ablues10]

I think in 96 they started to put the NVG n the v-6s. It shouldnt be all that different though. Not sure on the torque specs.