How to: Change Clutch 96-2003 2.2 and 4.3 5speed

[ablues10]

Ok this write up is for 96-2003 2.2. 5spd. I think the only diffrence for the 4.3 is the exhaust. Anyway it is basicaly the same. I dont have what size of wrenches /sockets but I will give you a step-by-step on how to change out your Slave cyl, pressure plate, flywheel and clutch disk. I am doing all this from memory so if I forget anything, please forgive me. In the pics you will notice I have a high performance disc, install is exactly the same. You will need the following:

A jack and jackstands or Hydraulic lift if you are lucky.
A transmission jack if you can find one (if not you will need 2 or more people.)
Various sockets and wrenches (metric , 7mm-18mm)
A flathead screwdriver
A bottle of Loctite
Clutch kit-- $200 for stock replacement (pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing "throwout bearing", alignment tool, and release bearing)
Slave cyl-- $60-$75 (it is better to change this now rather than doing this again in a few thousand miles)
2 or 3 bottles of GM syncromesh fluid (DO NOT USE GEAR OIL!!!!!!!) The gm part # is 12345349
A bottle of brakefluid
AND SOME PATIENCE AND SOME BEER.

WARNING: You will be working around fuel lines, DO NOT DAMAGE THEM!

1 Jack up the vehicle to a high enough level to work under the transmission.
A: Place jackstands.
Put all bolts in labled seperate bags like this:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70604&stc=1
2 start by removing the exhaust. 3 bolts on the bottom of the manfold and 3 after the cat.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70600&stc=1
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70601&stc=1

3 Now you must remove the driveshaft. Place a pan under the place where the driveshaft inserts into the transmission.
Remove the 4 bolts and 2 brackets on the diffrental. then the 2 bolts and 2 nuts on the carrier bearing.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70602&stc=1
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70603&stc=1
now slide the driveshaft out of the transmission, be careful not to damage the seal.
Gear oil will run out, its okay.

[ablues10]

4 next disconnect all the clips and brackets that are connected to that transmission, MAKE SURE ALL THE BRACKETS HOLD THE FUEL LINES ARE DISCONNECTED, you will be able to wiggle the lines if they are all disconnected. Disconnect the 02 sensor harness, and the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) harness. DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC LINE THAT IS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION. This is the clutch line. Remove this by using 2 flatheads 180 deg. apart and push the white collar into the cylinder. The line will pop out. DO NOT PULL THIS OUT because you will break it. This may take a second to do, DONT GET FRUSTERATED!

5 Put slight pressure on the flat part of the transmission with the jack.
Remove this bolt on the crossmember: After you remove it jack the transmission up just enough to get the bolt to clear the hole in the crossmember.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70605&stc=1

5. A. The allen wrench is the gear oil drain plug ( I think this is 18mm)
Drain this after you remove the cross member.

6. Now you must remove the crossmember. You must gain access though the outer chassis passenger side holes. An 90 deg. elbow and some tape around the elbow will help alot here.
Remove these bolts:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70607&stc=1

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70606&stc=1

7. Now refer to step 5.a.

8 Lower the transmission slowly and leave just enough pressure to hold it up, let all gear oil drain.
Reinstall plug.

9 Transmission removal
There are 10 bolts total.
Remove the 2 starter bolts. push the starter up and out of the way of the transmission.
Now this is where you will have to get creative. I used a 8in extension and an elbow to get all of the bolts.
There are 2 on the very top (get these first)
The best wat to get to them is to lower the transmission to where it is just hanging there.
After you get them put pressure back on it.
Now get the 2 in the upper middle of each side of the transmission. The one on the passenger side has a nut on the back.
Jack the transmission back up!
BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE LAST 2, remove the support bolts:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70608&stc=1

Now get your friend/friends, or Transmission jack
Remove the last 2 bolts.
Here is the bolt on the drivers side lower edge:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70609&stc=1

9. A. Also in the pic is the clutch bleeder (we will get to this later)

NOW THIS IS DANGEROUS!
2 people should support the transmission and slide it strait back .
Set the transmission on the ground.

[ablues10]

10 Now is an excellent time to install a new slave cyl. This is easy. Look inside the bellhousing and you will see 2 bolts. Remove them and install the new one. It comes with a Release bearing if it is Raybestos.

10. A. If you didnt buy a Slave cyl then, when you look inside the transmission you will see bearing on the end of a spring. That is the release bearing. I just replaced my slave so I am not sure how to get the bearing out of the plastic case, but I do know you will have to.

11 Pressure plate removal:
Warning: When removing the pressure plate there are asbestos present. These will mess up if the dust gets in your lungs.
There are 6 bolts on the edges of the pressure plate. BE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SIZE WRENCH! These bolts strip very easily and are on there tight!
Remove these bolts in a cross pattern (like a tire)
Have a friend hold a Long flathead in the teeth of the flywheel to keep it from turning.
The pressure plate and the clutch disk will come off together.

12 Flywheel removal
Keep the flywheel from turning.
Remove the 6 bolts the same way.

RESURFACE THE FLYWHEEL if you didnt buy a new one
Any machine shop can do it.
YOU MUST DO THIS!
If you dont it will wear out your new clutch FAST!


13 Inside the crankshaft is the pilot bushing. This is in the exact center of where the flywheel goes. I had trouble with mine so I had to cut it out.
I have heard of using a punch or a socket that will just bearly squeeze into the pilot bushing w/ some bearing grease then tap it hard w/ a hammer and the blow will force the bushing out. Dont put the new one in yet!


Here is my old disc, Pressure plate and flywheel:
Note the scorching on the flywheel.
I put roughly 6000 miles on my old one, it went out because I didnt replace the pilot bushing and I didnt resurface the flywheel.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70610&stc=1

Here is my new stuff:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70611&stc=1

Notice the diffrent discs. These are the kind I can get.

[ablues10]

I FORGOT!
You must remove the shifter and inspection plate before you drop the transmission!
Start by sliding the shift boot down until you see a nut inder the shifter. Loosen the nut. Unscrew the shifter. Now you will have to cut some of the carpet in order to gain access to the 12 or so 7mm bolts that hold the boot to the floor. Remove the boot. Now when you lower the transmission after you remove the crossmember, take off the black rubber thing that goes around the shifter, by cutting one side of it.
Now back in the cab, remove the 4 bolts holding the accual shifter on. Then in front of the transmission you will see a piece of sheet metal held on by 4 tiny bolts. All you have to do is remove the 4 bolts, the plate will come out later.
now on the the rest.

[ablues10]

14 Use the Loctite on the bolts first Install the flywheel tha same way you took it off. In a cross pattern.
Torque to 55 ft/lbs on the 2.2
75 ft/lbs for 4.3

15 Put the pilot bushing in to the edge of the crankshaft.
Now put the clutch disc and the pressure plate back on the flywheel, install the bolts just tight enough to hold the pressure plate on. Now put in the alignment tool, going through the pressure plate and lining the splines up . push in all the way. Now Remove one bolt at a time and apply Loctite to a few threads and install in a cross pattern.

Torque to 33 FT/LBS for 2.2
29 ft/lbs for 4.3
Now remove the alignment tool.

16 Install transmission.
Try to get this as strait as possible. It wont go in all the way. You will have to push it in one way and install a bolt. Then tighten it down a little then push it the other way and intall the other side. Then tighten both sides a little @ a time. This will pull the transmission in. Now install the other 4.
Install the 2 support bracket bolts on the bottom of the transmission.

Torque to 35 ft/lbs for both 2.2 and 4.3

17 ADD GEAR OIL (2 bottles)!
Put the shifter back on (4 bolts) Place that foam rubber thing back around the shifter. Jack the transmission back up and install the inspection plate and starter.
Torque the starter bolts to 32 ft/lbs

18 Connect all plugs and install fuel line brackets

19 Install the crossmember
No torque, just tighten the hell out of them.
Lower the transmission back down onto the crossmember and snug that nut.

20 Install the exhauts. Dont forget the donut for the top part of the exhaust!
Tighten these bolts (all 6) for both sides of the exhaust.

21 Install the Driveshaft.
Torque the carrier bearing bolts to:50 ft/lbs

22 install the rest of the shifter,the boot and all that.

Now make sure you dont have any bolts left over.

21 Bleeding the clutch.
You will need 2 people
That little bleeder thing shown here:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...id=70612&stc=1

I think it is 13mm or something. Use a open wrench. Have someone hold the petal to the floor and then open it until a steady streem of fluid runs out. Then close it. Pump the pedal a few times then do it again. It should take less than 5. You will notice the pedal is stiffer.




THE END!
NOW SIT BACK AND ENJOY A BREW!

I just did all of this by memory If I forgot something I am sorry and add it to this write up.

[Generic0]

the transmissions take GM syncromesh fluid not gear oil

[ablues10]

Well I looked that up and I will be damned!
You sure do!
DO NOT USE GEAR OIL!!!!!!!
The gm part # is 12345349

Sorry for the mistake, now I have to go change mine.
Thanks Generic0

[2Bbagged]

my manual tells me that for a 1995 model 2.2 i need to disconnect the fuel lines... is this so... if there is anyway around it, i would like to take that rout... something i dont feel like messing with... also my exhaust is all custom welded so in that case it is possible for me to get the transmission out w/ out removing the exhaust r

[BIGGERISBETTER]

My manual instructed to use automatic transmission fluid.. which im glad i read because i bought gear oil like you said..lol.

[ablues10]

i

Quote: Originally Posted by 2Bbagged

my manual tells me that for a 1995 model 2.2 i need to disconnect the fuel lines... is this so... if there is anyway around it, i would like to take that rout... something i dont feel like messing with... also my exhaust is all custom welded so in that case it is possible for me to get the transmission out w/ out removing the exhaust r

You dont have to completly disconnect the fuel lines! You have to disconnect the clamps holding them to the tranny. As for your exhaust, It needs to come out so you can get to the 2 bolts on that side.

[guhman2002]

i cant for the life of me pull the tranny from the bell housing i didnt unbolt the starter or inspection plate would that be the problem ? i dont know

[greenstizzle]

in the 97 new venture transmition is there a gasket between the transmition and the bell housing took it apart by mistake thinking it was like the older trannys whoops if anybody knows just reply

[guhman2002]

Cody, did a gasket fall out when you took the bolts out? The only seal I know you will need is for your shifter.. someone just has red goop instead of the correct seal.

Hows the clutch venture coming? Make sure to get your flywheel done.

[Xtreme Bax]

hey man do you know anything about changing from an auto trans to a manual trans and the steps that it takes? message me

[442typhoondude]

Mhy 96 ZQ8 didn't slide out or back in at all. You will have to rotate, twist, and turn the tranny to get it to come out. Try to remember the angles you used as they can make it much easier to get back in. I put some minor dents in the floor pan as well to help the transmission clear.

To those who plan on using the Centerforce 2 set up, beware. I had to take a file to the back of the pressure plate as the burs would have torn up the disc instantly. Make sure you check this before you install it. Obviously, you should wipe it clean. I used a rag dampened with paint thinner.

Check your yoke and U-joints while you have the driveshaft out. If your yoke has any gouges, go buy a new one. If you have an old yoke laying around from a TH350, it might fit in to keep the grease from leaking out on the floor. Make sure it is cleaned, and it should slide in easily. If the U-joints don't move easy or feel akward, take your driveshaft to the local driveshatf repair facility.

[99blkx]

i should be tackling this within the next month or so. the clutch is slipping now... sometimes... and i don't wanna spend the 6 or 7 hundred to pay a shop to do it.

thanks for this ahead of time, and wish me luck. a new clutch, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, etc. and a new timing chain and gears. i hope one weekend can hold all that.

[erickrussell]

Thanks for the great post... This has helped quite a bit! Anyone know how much play should be in the Transmission input shaft. Most things I have read say replace the bearing if there is excessive play. How much is too much? Mine moves .125" at the end of the shaft when I wiggle it left to right. Should I pull the bearing?

[tippmann243]

sounds about right, there is going to be some play but most of the slop will be taken car of by the pilot bushing

[monkeymouse]

Great write up, I used this more then my manual lol. Btw the T5 slid out with great ease. Sucks for you NV guys who have to muscel it all around lol.

[TwoBarSupra]

Anyone do a 4WD model. Doing a clutch for a friend and i'm not sure how to get the tranny to drop past the frame. it looks as though I may have to take the transfer case assembly off the tranny but wanted to ask to see if maybe there is an easier way

[FLGatorsRule]

Thanks alot, helped a bunch. The only thing is, my tranny took 4 quarts of syncromesh. And the trans was a (insert bad word here) to get back on! I worked on it for 3 hours then gave up, and worked on it for a long time the next day too.

[erickrussell]

Thank you all! NV transmissions back in. Had to wiggle /jiggle it to get the splines lined up. Man oh man.. I read on another post where you climb under the tranny and push up on the back end with your knees with the bell housing in you face. Its the only thing that worked for me. I hope I dont need to do it ever again.

[ablues10]

Good to hear.
IF ANYONE HAS QUESTIONS FOR ME, P.M. ME

Later!

[dcoleman]

Great write up, I hope I don't have do all that for a while. I do need to bleed my slave though and I can't get at the bleeder. Would you recommend dropping the driveshaft, crossmember and tranny 6 or so inches or should I just install an "access panel" in my floor board under the carpet.

[Flying Bison]

Quote: Originally Posted by dcoleman

Great write up, I hope I don't have do all that for a while. I do need to bleed my slave though and I can't get at the bleeder. Would you recommend dropping the driveshaft, crossmember and tranny 6 or so inches or should I just install an "access panel" in my floor board under the carpet.

the bleeder is on the side of the bellhousing above the clutch linkage

and if ur dropping the trany, remove the 4 bolts holding the dust plate on, i didnt and it took me forever to figure out why the tranny wouldnt slide off

[loudnclear]

Before you buy a Spec Clutch Stage 1 kit, there is something you should know...

I had a very bad experience with Spec Clutch Stage 1 kit, i bought the Spec Clutch Stage 1 kit and i was very happy until then. When i get the clutch kit installed in my truck, i realize that Spec are crap. The Spec company are selling those kits as BRAND NEW and they're NOT new at all. I get the Spec clutch press unbalanced (totally lost), also clutch press is completely refurbished and they aren't new as you might think. The clutch disc is almost new, the asbesto is too rigid and makes vibration also those asbestos are made in mexico (not made in the US as i was thinking). I had to take off the Spec clutch kit and put it in a stock clutch part.

I've spend too much money on handwork because of this poor quality clutch kit and honestly i would never recommend Spec clutch stage 1 kits... You can expect more with a stock clutch part instead Spec, they sucks!!

[klensdime]

i changed my clutch cuz my ringgear went bad and i just wanted to add that u need a 17mm HEX wrench to get the drain plug out to change the oil. Most tool sets dont have this and its about 20$ at sears. just my .02 cents cuz it pissed me off.

[99blkx]

yeah, i posted back in april that i'd be undertaking this project soon, but i will actually begin tomorrow. gonna do it all in my buddy's garage. already have all the parts in the passenger seat.

thanks for the write up!! i'll let ya know how it works out!!

[BadS15v8]

No one posted about the resurfacing your flywheel. Anyone choosing to have your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying a new one need to check how much is going to be surfaced down. It's been resurfaced more than once chances are your going to need a shim for the flywheel.

[blackspyder]

Quote: Originally Posted by BadS15v8

No one posted about the resurfacing your flywheel. Anyone choosing to have your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying a new one need to check how much is going to be surfaced down. It's been resurfaced more than once chances are your going to need a shim for the flywheel.

Yeah had mine replaced a few years back and the clutch never felt right after that now that the slave went out a second time I pulled the flywheel down to discover that the shop didnt shim it so im stuck buying a new flywheel cuz I dont know the amount that was cut off. (well I could figure it out as I used to resurface flywheels but too much hassel for just a guess.)

If you resurface know the amount taken off. A good machine shop will tell you this. shim it exactly right or the clutch will never fully bleed and will wear the slave out prematurely (went through this with the NV4500's as well a couple of times)

[nlazoff]

ummm i used gear oil... what will happen if i dont change it?

[BadS15v8]

Change it ASAP......

[BadS15v8]

Also not ragging on import hunter, but after fighting with my new clutch kit I called the manufactor.

A: A pilot bushing should be a light drive fit into the crank bore.

B: The transmission should slip in freely to mate up with the engine.

If not there is something wrong you should never have to use the moutning bolts to pull the tranny to the engine.

All this info can be viewed here:
The Novak Guide to Clutches, Linkages & Bellhousings

[ablues10]

With a transmission jack it will slide right in place. Laying on you back is another story, especially in gravel.

Any yess the pilot bushing should go in pretty easily. Use grease and a little tap with a socket.

[BadS15v8]

Mine slid right in with me and my brother (240lbs together) on our back with the crossmember still in and the truck still on the ground (No lift only sitting on stock suspension and 31's). Tranny went right in all the way, flush, with no tightning bolts side to side. No problems at all.

[Noremac]

i am taking mine to the shop tommorrow, and it cost me 170 bucks for the clutch kit, 30 for the flywheel, and 100 for labor plus tax... not sure about the slave yet, he is going to check on it, and maybe replace it... no extra labor cost though for it..

[99s10thrill]

Quote: Originally Posted by klensdime

i changed my clutch cuz my ringgear went bad and i just wanted to add that u need a 17mm HEX wrench to get the drain plug out to change the oil. Most tool sets dont have this and its about 20$ at sears. just my .02 cents cuz it pissed me off.

Yes it is the 17mm. I checked my fluid the other day. Luckily I found a set of 3 1/2" drive hex bits at Auto Zone for 7.99. (correct price 9.99, but it was tagged 2 dollars less ) What was difficult for me to find at first was Synchromesh trans fluid. They were out of it at auto zone(actually the first person I talked to told me it was a dealer only deal)

I hope I don't have to replace the clutch for a while, but being that this is my "learning how to drive a manual trans" vehicle.... who knows.

[stephend]

Quote: Originally Posted by erickrussell

Thank you all! NV transmissions back in. Had to wiggle /jiggle it to get the splines lined up. Man oh man.. I read on another post where you climb under the tranny and push up on the back end with your knees with the bell housing in you face. Its the only thing that worked for me. I hope I dont need to do it ever again.

Yeah, the 2.2 trans(NV1500, i think) is much easier to pull than the 4.3 trans(NV3500). I found out the correcect procedure the hard way when i did the clutch on my 96 4.3. I got it out alright but the trans just wouldn't go back in. thats when i decided to read the instructions and learned that you are supposed to take out the body mount bolts and raise the body an inch or two. I know it sounds like a lot of extra work, but it is definitely worth it. I'm going to pull it again in the future because my slave cylinder is leaking now(rats!!! why didn't i change that last time?) and i will definitely lift my body again to do it.

[ctrus]

Quote: Originally Posted by stephend

Yeah, the 2.2 trans(NV1500, i think) is much easier to pull than the 4.3 trans(NV3500). I found out the correcect procedure the hard way when i did the clutch on my 96 4.3. I got it out alright but the trans just wouldn't go back in. thats when i decided to read the instructions and learned that you are supposed to take out the body mount bolts and raise the body an inch or two. I know it sounds like a lot of extra work, but it is definitely worth it. I'm going to pull it again in the future because my slave cylinder is leaking now(rats!!! why didn't i change that last time?) and i will definitely lift my body again to do it.

I'm planning on doing this tomorrow. Was that set of instructions available online? I'm a little reluctant to just unbolt my cab and jack it up without any instructions. But I've done dumber things. Any input would be helpful Thanks.

[stephend]

Quote: Originally Posted by ctrus

I'm planning on doing this tomorrow. Was that set of instructions available online? I'm a little reluctant to just unbolt my cab and jack it up without any instructions. But I've done dumber things. Any input would be helpful Thanks.

I believe i used Mitchell OnDemand (an auto repair program). Its not really that hard to raise the cab. There are six body mounting bolts to remove and a couple brackets at the ends of the front bumper that will need to be unfastened. i used a jack to raise one side at a tim and stuck 2x4s inbetween the frame and body to hold it up about 1 1/2 inches. the hardest part about the job will probably be removing the clutch hydraulic line. push the line in toward the trans, then the white plastic collar at the connection must be pushed in and held, and thee you can pull the line out of the slave cylinder(a little easier said than done). dont worry about spilling any clutch fluid. there is a check valve at the end of the line.

[stephend]

Quote: Originally Posted by klensdime

i changed my clutch cuz my ringgear went bad and i just wanted to add that u need a 17mm HEX wrench to get the drain plug out to change the oil. Most tool sets dont have this and its about 20$ at sears. just my .02 cents cuz it pissed me off.

I found a bolt with a 17mm head and gripped the threaded of the bolt with a vise grip. It beat having to find and then pay for a 17mm allen wrench that i may only use once.

[ablues10]

You dont have to lift up the cab. The upper bolts are real easy to get to if you have a swivel and about 4, 7" extensions.

[Thomm]

ok i will be doing my 2.2 very soon, i have 2 questions before i start, as i have replaced clutches on full size trucks before, when you say that 10 bolts need to be removed (step 9) do you mean 4 on the tranny and 6 on the bellhousing, and will i need to block the motor in the front or rear at all, this is a very good thread thanks

[ablues10]

2 at the very top of the housing 2 in the middle, 2 towards the bottom (one with a nut on the backside), 2 support bolts. And 2 starter bolts.

[ablues10]

No you will not need to block the motor. I am not too sure on a V-6 but you shouldn't have to. It accually comes out easier if you let the motor tilt down.

[monsterjam5000]

is this how i would do it on a 1995 2.2 5speed sonoma

[iLLmexican]

Do you guys recommend a clutch kit to buy, or is it just everything will work the same kinda situation. My truck is starting to make a grinding noise like the gears aren't sticking, specially in first, sometimes in second when I'm switching off the clutch to the gas, It grinds more often when the truck is wormed up. I'm sure its the clutch but not sure which one to buy, any input is greatly appreciate.
-Grisha

[ablues10]

Its the same for any clutch, as for which one it depends what you wanna do with it. I wanted one I could beat the hell out of and it ran me around $300. For a complete stock replacement you can get one at any auto parts store. They should run around $200.

[uniques1029]

i have a problem whit my transmicion i have a hard time shifting gears on my truck and i dont no whats the problem if anyone knows anything please let me know

[MPETESS10]

just for the record
I will never ever do another NV3500 clutch without raising the cab off the frame
I did my first clutch without doing so and it was a 2 day job with 1.5 days spent tryin to get the tranny back into the truck and get the bellhousing bolts tight
the 2nd and 3rd time I did nv3500 clutches I lifted the cab and lemme tell you it makes the job 10 times easier to get it back in
as far as what clutch to use
the most recent time was when I put a 2nd clutch in my truck after the centerforce dual friction grenaded on me after only 25k miles behind a stock V6
I bought a complete kit from autozone which has a "LIFETIME" warranty
which in the clutch world is VERY RARE
because its a wear and tear item
I have had this clutch in for 2.5 years and about 15k and its still doin pretty good
although I dont beat on the truck near as hard as I used to
but I do have a tiny bit of chatter from a dead start but I think that is contamination from a slightly leaking rear main or rear cam seal or dist seal or valve covers
but hey with 175k on it I am surprised it doesnt leak more than it does already so I aint complainin
and I aint fixing it either
the way it is is the way its gonna stay until the engine comes out in favor of something bigger