Drum to Disc brake rear end swap how-to!

[eelding]

i have a 99 blazer rear disc with a bad crown and pinion , i have a rear end from a 93 jimmy same ratio but it has drums , if i understand i can switch my discs over to the jimmy rear and everything bults up

[Dranko]

I'm getting ready to do this swap very soon so how exactly to you connect the rear brake lines to the master cylinder?

[rlith]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dranko

I'm getting ready to do this swap very soon so how exactly to you connect the rear brake lines to the master cylinder?

Same way it's connected now. That said, we discovered in just swapping the parts over you will need to move the flanges in about 3/4"

[BusinessMan_24]

Stock Rear End with disc brake conversion & working e-brake.

If any one wants detailed instructions on how I did mine with a list of parts let me know. It cost around $300 for all parts except rotors and pads.

[fordktpjoe]

Quote: Originally Posted by BusinessMan_24

Stock Rear End with disc brake conversion & working e-brake.

If any one wants detailed instructions on how I did mine with a list of parts let me know. It cost around $300 for all parts except rotors and pads.

Well heck yeah man! give up the details!

[BusinessMan_24]

This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2

Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rearend/axle flange)

2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)

3. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)

4. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I prefered braided)

Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lugnuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jackstands. Remove wheels.

2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.

3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and hace the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside of 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)

4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.

3. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.

[BusinessMan_24]

This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2 with stock rear end.

Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rear end/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper pads
4. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
5. Axle seals which are around $5 each
6. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I preferred braided)
7. New wheel studs for the rear which I believe are $1-$2 each. (I recommend replacing while axles are out)

Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and have the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement studs from any automotive store are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate, master wheel cylinder & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
5. Replace your axle seals while the axles are out and check your bearings (replace bearings if needed).
6. Test fit your caliper bracket from www.scarebird.com. Drill any necessary holes in bracket to mount it securely to rear end. (I had to use a die grinder and take a bit out of the middle of the bracket to make it sit properly against the rear end before drilling necessary holes for mounting.)
7. Once bracket is mounted securely and axle seals are replaced then reinstall axles. Push axles all the way in & reinstall C clip then pull the axle out locking it in place. Install center pin and center pin bolt.
8. Make sure no debris went in the rear diff if left uncovered while axles where out getting machined. Reinstall rear differential cover and fill back up with 80W-90 gear lube (I used 80W-90 Vavoline Gear Lube) through fill plug located at the front right of the rear end (when looking at the back of it front right). Fill up to the bottom of the plug which I believe is around 2-2.5 qts.
9. Install rotors, calipers & pads. (Calipers are from the rear of a 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado and bolt right to brackets with factory caliper bolts)
10. You will need a longer E-brake cable if you are planning on using the e-brake. The cable connects to a e-brake lever on the rear of the calipers.
11. Reconnect brake lines and fill up the master cylinder then bleed the brakes.
12. Go for a test drive and make sure everything is working properly.

[Tinner]

I knew that this could be done without changing rearends, thanks guy for the post and so simple to follow. I didnt mind changing the rearend just thought it was a more of a PITA going to a junck yard looking for the right rearend and making sure the gears were the same, and being sure that you are not buying someone elses headache, ie: broken or worn out rear gears.

[toy_racer_17]

ok read whole thread and didn't see an answer to my question not saying it wasn't discussed but i missed it. anyway, i have a bent axle and i have swapped just the brakes from drum to disc with factory 8.5 rear. i have things spaced out and don't like it. i am going to order new axles and was wondereing if anyone knew exactly what the spacing is so i can just change the overall length of the new axles. like from flange to bearing. can someone help or is this a waste of time. if someone doesn't think this will work please let me know and why. thanks.

[cincystepside00]

so i'm about to do this swap on a 00' 2wd s10, if i were to find a 00' Blazer rear end with disk brakes it should swap no problems or would their be extra work involved? sorry to ask a dumb question but this will have to be a weekend at the most and don't really want to get into it and not have everything i need. thank again all

[PSYKO_Inc]

Quote: Originally Posted by BusinessMan_24

This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2 with stock rear end.

Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rear end/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper pads
4. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
5. Axle seals which are around $5 each
6. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I preferred braided)
7. New wheel studs for the rear which I believe are $1-$2 each. (I recommend replacing while axles are out)

Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and have the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement studs from any automotive store are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate, master wheel cylinder & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
5. Replace your axle seals while the axles are out and check your bearings (replace bearings if needed).
6. Test fit your caliper bracket from www.scarebird.com. Drill any necessary holes in bracket to mount it securely to rear end. (I had to use a die grinder and take a bit out of the middle of the bracket to make it sit properly against the rear end before drilling necessary holes for mounting.)
7. Once bracket is mounted securely and axle seals are replaced then reinstall axles. Push axles all the way in & reinstall C clip then pull the axle out locking it in place. Install center pin and center pin bolt.
8. Make sure no debris went in the rear diff if left uncovered while axles where out getting machined. Reinstall rear differential cover and fill back up with 80W-90 gear lube (I used 80W-90 Vavoline Gear Lube) through fill plug located at the front right of the rear end (when looking at the back of it front right). Fill up to the bottom of the plug which I believe is around 2-2.5 qts.
9. Install rotors, calipers & pads. (Calipers are from the rear of a 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado and bolt right to brackets with factory caliper bolts)
10. You will need a longer E-brake cable if you are planning on using the e-brake. The cable connects to a e-brake lever on the rear of the calipers.
11. Reconnect brake lines and fill up the master cylinder then bleed the brakes.
12. Go for a test drive and make sure everything is working properly.

Thanks for the info! I'm looking at the possibility of the Scarebird/Eldorado swap myself. Do you happen to have the info for the braided hoses and E-brake cables that you used for this swap (i.e. manufacturer, part number, etc.)? Also how much was the braking improved over the stock drums?

[Low97Noma]

I recently just got a G80 rear out of a 97 Old. Bravada AWD (im pretty sure bravadas come in AWD, as this was jsut a chassis, no body and i know it's a locked rear as i took it apart at my shop and replaced seals and cleaned everything up) but it is going into a 97 S10 Xcab 2wd, and ive heard that 4x4 blazer G80 rears are 2inches wider than my stock 2WD axel and im running the 1st Style ZQ8 wheel on my truck, will this become a problem? thanks.

[MARS2878]

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith

EMERGENCY BRAKE INSTALLATION..

From the center of the body you will see a bracket where your pedal cable and your ebrake cables. From the bracket to the backing plates, those 2 cables will need to be replaced ($23.00 per side at the dealer) as the drum style has different ends and won't work with the new setup.. (This is only for 95 to current, 94 and below have a completely different cabling system so you would have to figure out on your own on how to go about making the ebrake work)

ANYBODY FIGURE THIS OUT YET??
I HAVE A '93 BRAVADA WITH REAR ABS & DRUMS (G80 / GT4)
I HAVE A DISC REAR END (G80 / GT4) OUT OF A '98 BRAVADA WITH 4-WHEEL ABS.
I NEED HELP WITH THE E-BRAKE CABLE ISSUE.

[MARS2878]

My Other Question Is About The Booster.
The Rpo For The Booster In The '93 Is:
Jm3 - Brake, 240mm Tandem, High Flow.
The Rpo For The Booster In The '98 Is:
Jc1 - Brake, "vac Power, 4-wheel Disc, 5,500lbs.
What's The Difference, Which Is Better, Do I Need To Swap It Out? Also When I Do The Rear End Swap To Disc?

[XtremeLS199]

Very nice...I have a 99 S10 Xtreme and am looking to do this same kinda of conversion on the rear of my truck. I dont plan on replacing the entire rear end like you have, but I found a disc brake kit off of a 99 blazer that someone has for sale. However, my question is this. I can easily replace the drum brake set up for that of the disc brake set up as found on the blazer. It is a bolt on job. Once I have this done, I am thinking that replacing the proportioning valve at the master cylinder may be in line or using some sort of aftermarket valving to properly feed fluid to the discs at the rear. I dont think the stock wheel cylinders require as much pressure as the discs would. Any feedback on this or does anyone think that the stock proportional valve is adequate?

[rxforspeed]

What's this about using Camaro/Firebird parts? Somebody mentioned a rear disc swap with parts from an F-body, but what do you need? Sounds like some 1/4" spacers for the backing plates, but what will fit? BTW-thanks for the "how to" with your method, BusinessMan. I'm still trying to weigh my options before I decide which route to take...

-Adam Collins

[King_Ice_Flash2]

Does anyone know if the blazer and the pickup parking brake cables are the same? Otherwise, do I need to find a different length intermediate cable for the parking brake? Mine didn't fit with the rear end cable from a blazer (Too short)

[1BadElky]

Quote: Originally Posted by King_Ice_Flash2

Does anyone know if the blazer and the pickup parking brake cables are the same? Otherwise, do I need to find a different length intermediate cable for the parking brake? Mine didn't fit with the rear end cable from a blazer (Too short)

reg cab= 2D Blazer
ext. cab= 4D Blazer
reg cab long bed= ?
crew cab= ?

[King_Ice_Flash2]

The cables came off a 4 door blazer, and are going onto a long bed S10. The drum cables are the same between the shortcab and the long bed. They use a short piece of cable that goes between the cable that attaches right before the equalizer.

If they are not the same, does anyone have the part number so I can order new ones?

[MARS2878]

Quote: Originally Posted by MARS2878

ANYBODY FIGURE THIS OUT YET??
I HAVE A '93 BRAVADA WITH REAR ABS & DRUMS (G80 / GT4)
I HAVE A DISC REAR END (G80 / GT4) OUT OF A '98 BRAVADA WITH 4-WHEEL ABS.
I NEED HELP WITH THE E-BRAKE CABLE ISSUE.

ANYONE??

[262X02]

I haven't figured the e-brake thing out either but i'm thinking of just taking the whole parking brake assembly from a 98+ camero and mocking it up to work with my x-cab.

[andrew69_04]

are 7.5 axles and 8.5 axles the same? I have located a 7.5 disc rear out of a 99 blazer. i have a 8.5 in my 03 s10 now. wanting to upgrade the brakes on the 8.5 but dont want to be shimming the backing plate. if i could use the 7.5 axles in teh 8.5 rear then everything would be simple.

[dart_06]

Quote: Originally Posted by BusinessMan_24

This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2 with stock rear end.

Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rear end/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper pads
4. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
5. Axle seals which are around $5 each
6. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I preferred braided)
7. New wheel studs for the rear which I believe are $1-$2 each. (I recommend replacing while axles are out)

Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and have the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement studs from any automotive store are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate, master wheel cylinder & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
5. Replace your axle seals while the axles are out and check your bearings (replace bearings if needed).
6. Test fit your caliper bracket from www.scarebird.com. Drill any necessary holes in bracket to mount it securely to rear end. (I had to use a die grinder and take a bit out of the middle of the bracket to make it sit properly against the rear end before drilling necessary holes for mounting.)
7. Once bracket is mounted securely and axle seals are replaced then reinstall axles. Push axles all the way in & reinstall C clip then pull the axle out locking it in place. Install center pin and center pin bolt.
8. Make sure no debris went in the rear diff if left uncovered while axles where out getting machined. Reinstall rear differential cover and fill back up with 80W-90 gear lube (I used 80W-90 Vavoline Gear Lube) through fill plug located at the front right of the rear end (when looking at the back of it front right). Fill up to the bottom of the plug which I believe is around 2-2.5 qts.
9. Install rotors, calipers & pads. (Calipers are from the rear of a 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado and bolt right to brackets with factory caliper bolts)
10. You will need a longer E-brake cable if you are planning on using the e-brake. The cable connects to a e-brake lever on the rear of the calipers.
11. Reconnect brake lines and fill up the master cylinder then bleed the brakes.
12. Go for a test drive and make sure everything is working properly.

will this work on 98+ dimes??

[King_Ice_Flash2]

Quote: Originally Posted by andrew69_04

are 7.5 axles and 8.5 axles the same? I have located a 7.5 disc rear out of a 99 blazer. i have a 8.5 in my 03 s10 now. wanting to upgrade the brakes on the 8.5 but dont want to be shimming the backing plate. if i could use the 7.5 axles in teh 8.5 rear then everything would be simple.

No, the 7.5 axle shafts will not fit in the 8.5" rear.

[Kovz]

I have a 97 2wd rearend in my truck with 3:08 gears and an open diff.
I bought an 01 2wd blazer rearend to put on my truck. it is a 3:42 gears with limited slip posi and disk brakes.

How do i get the driveshaft from my 97 to bolt up to the 01 diff?

My 97 diff:


The 01 diff:


thank you for the help. please answer asap as i have the truck apart right now and need to know...

[sockjock]

Well I'm not a pro on the subject, but it appears you'll have to unbolt the yoke off the new rear and swap your setup onto it. I don't know if unbolting the yoke may affect pinion settings but that looks like what must be done so your driveshaft and double universal setup will bolt up. Hopefully one of the other members who is in the know will chime in with a definite answer for you.

[Kovz]

yes, i believe you are correct. I went and stopped by my mechanic and he told me that you can swap the yokes. there is a crush sleeve in there and when you tighten the pinion seal you have to be very careful not to overtighten it. i am just going to take both rearends up to their shop tomorrow and he said he will swap them for me in 5 minutes... and he's not gonna charge me anything so that is a plus! I'll update after tomorrow. thanks for the answer!

[sockjock]

No problem. I knew about the crush sleeve but I wasn't sure how loosening the pinion and retightening it would affect pinion depth setting.

[96Dropped-dime]

DAMN GOOD THREAD gonna have to do this swap my self soon

[Kovz]

well i took the rearends to my mechanic today and he swapped the yokes, no problem at all. i bought a new pinion seal for it and he made sure to tighten it enough, but not overtighten it to crush that sleeve. so all is good! and the project continues!!!!

[jarrodh]

hey, does anyone know if a disk rear end from a second gen 2wd will fit in a drum 2wd first gen..(width,d-shaft issues, and leaf mount wise)

i need to get some better gears, and also would like disc brakes..

if it will fit, is there one i should look for thats stronger..

[Weldorguy]

Hey guys I found this linky here that shows how to do it down to 1986 s10


http://www.locostusa.com/forums/view...296263 ffaa31


Best Regards and Always smiling

Weldorguy

[BLAZIN1990]

yes i know for sure that a 2nd gen rear end will bolt right up to a first gen with no problems as long a the axel housings are the same i did this on my 90 blazer and it was cake just simply swap the whole deal

[ChopperCharles]

Quote: Originally Posted by Lenny95NeoN

[Message cliff notes:]
[ABS will Work fine as long as the axle ratio's are the same as stock.]


The other problem probably won't affect you. The older drum brake hub is slightly (like milimeters) larger than my original one, so it was extremely tough for me, and everybody else matter of fact, to get the 2wd aluminum wheels on and off. Especially getting them off.

5 minutes per wheel with a dremel loaded with a sanding wheel will make those later rims fit on the earlier hub. You have to take off just a few thousandths. Worked like a charm for me. I also paint the hubs with anti seize before installing the wheel.

Charles.

[PimpingA1997Jimmy]

wishing there was somone with the mechanic skills close to me in cleveland i would love to do the swap for read disks i hate these drums but im not in any condition to do the work on top of not having any tools
I just had surgery on my Knee so could not do any of the work if there is anyone who might be intrested in the area that knows how to do this and might help and have tools
I can pay a little money for the help and can help out with what i can
anyone in the cleveland area that would be up for this perhaps

[greythorn3]

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith

Well I got the new rear end in! I had wanted disc brakes for a long time, I came across a good deal on a g80 (limited slip posi) rear w/ disc brakes from a 99 blazer. It only had 33k on the rear and I got it for $180.00 bux! YAY.... So I finally get around to installing it this weekend with the help of Grappler...(Thanx once again bud)...

The install is fairly straight forward: (see notes at the end of this page): So I started by picking up the rear at my local wrecking yard. It's been sitting in mud for almost a year (the back end of the blazer it was on had no wheels and it's a messy yard)...

Here is the rear...As you can see there is a lot of surface rust...



Fortunatly the emergency brake shoes were in good shape as seen here...


Grappler taking a break before the installation... (see ending notes)



The dust shields were toast (rusted and bent) so I pulled the diff cover, then the axels and put new ones on.. In this pic you can see on the left side how bad they were banged up... on the right side I had already removed the dust shield...I also took the opprotunity to change the diff fluid... Sprayed out the casing with 2 cans of brake clean, let dry, then added Valvoline Durablend (dino/synthetic mix) 80/90 weight gear oil.



I used a wire wheel on an air rotary tool to get any scaling and debri (i.e mud) off of the casing. I then used a spray on rust inhibitor/converter/primer and let it sit overnight. (actually a couple of days because I couldn't get back to it). I then put on 2 coats of Rustolium Black w/ hammered finish on to it. This gives the benifit of being less rusty later on (gads I hate salt) and it actually looks good. I may do my whole frame in the stuff.

Here's a pic of it when it was half painted. You can see on the right the finished product while on the left it's still bare. Definatly an improvement.



I then cleaned up the calipers. Ground out the dirt and grease on the calipers themselves (aluminum, not iron, very light weight!) then cleaned and painted the actual caliper frame in the same color as I painted the rear itself.

In this pic I had test fitted the newly cut rotors and the calipers.... They came out very well...



rear side...



Once the new rear was finally ready for installation we of course had to pull the old one... This was simply a matter of diconnecting the vent hose, brake line T, emergency brake lines, u-bolts, drive shaft. Remember when you pull the u-joint, run some tape around both the end caps so they don't fall off when manuervering the shaft around.


Then we jacked it up and slid it out lengthwise....

My baby don't got back...



Here is the old rear in all it's glory (and salt)



Installtion is the same as extraction, just in reverse....

Grappler taking a break before the installation...



Without Caliper but with caliper frame: Note.. I took the opprotunity to install red polyeurethayne bushings on my swaybar to replace the OEM 10 year old rubber bushings....



With full caliper installed.


Angle 2


Finally when you've reattached all your brake lines, simply bleed all the air out of the calipers and lines. Test drive, enjoy!!!!



Some notes and conclusions:

Overall this is not a difficult swap. If I had been less concerned about the type of rear I was getting (g80) there is actually an easier way to do this. The above will work on 84 to current... This will also work... If you want to add OEM stock disc brakes to your EXISTING drum rear without changing the whole rear you would only need the following....

All 98 and up parts (these will work all the way down to 86)

Backing plates (27.00 per side )
Calipers (30.00)
Caliper frames (20.00)
Pads ($20.00)
Discs (36.00 per side at advance auto parts)
OR a loaded caliper from Advance autoparts (includes frame, pads, calipers, bolts, et-al)
Stock bolts
Dust shields (12.00 per side at the dealer)
Brake lines to the caliper...($15.00 each)

Simply remove your old shoes and the backing plates, install the new backing plates then the calipers, etc... Bleed and go...


EMERGENCY BRAKE INSTALLATION..

From the center of the body you will see a bracket where your pedal cable and your ebrake cables. From the bracket to the backing plates, those 2 cables will need to be replaced ($23.00 per side at the dealer) as the drum style has different ends and won't work with the new setup.. (This is only for 95 to current, 94 and below have a completely different cabling system so you would have to figure out on your own on how to go about making the ebrake work)



Definatly better stopping power than with my drums, the overall upgrade was well worth it. Overall time was about 4 hours (this included breaks and what not)

why cant i see any pictures?

[xtreme_xplod]

Quote: Originally Posted by greythorn3

why cant i see any pictures?

Because the pictures have been deleted from whatever sight was hosting them. This is an old thread.

[chargedextreme]

ok so for my 2000 s10 pickup extended cab i would need the parking brake cables from a 4 door blazer?

[rlith]

Quote: Originally Posted by chargedextreme

ok so for my 2000 s10 pickup extended cab i would need the parking brake cables from a 4 door blazer?

You could use that or the one from a long bed 4x4 pickup

[creamydime]

ok question so iv been lookin into this and on the 4x4 rear discs the rotors are different than a 2wd rotor so if a 2wd rotor was used with all the 4x4 backing plates would the flange still need to be moved?

[rlith]

Quote: Originally Posted by creamydime

ok question so iv been lookin into this and on the 4x4 rear discs the rotors are different than a 2wd rotor so if a 2wd rotor was used with all the 4x4 backing plates would the flange still need to be moved?

The flange doesn't have anything to do with that. If the backing plate cannot be moved back 3/4 inch, then the bracket that holds the caliper won't fit right with the disc on

[chargedextreme]

what are we talking about hear about backing plate

[chargedextreme]

so i got the swap off a 8.5 rear im putting it on a 7.5 rear. how big of a spacer am i going to need to aline the caliper mount up right with the rotor. i made 1/4in thick spacers and now it looks like i need to make 3/8 spacer instead , am i right?

[Petro]

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith

The flange doesn't have anything to do with that. If the backing plate cannot be moved back 3/4 inch, then the bracket that holds the caliper won't fit right with the disc on

Why would the backing plate need to move back 3/4 inch? THERE is no need to cut , weld , or anything!!! The drum brake rearends are 48" backing plate to plate..With that said the disc rears are 48.5"...So about a 1/4" spacer needs to be made to line the caliper up with the rotor..check out this thread:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f14/al...brakes-390664/


Oh and this thread needs to be cleaned up. There is a lot of wrong info in the earlier posts...

[chargedextreme]

maybe i didnt word it right i made that 1/4 spacer and it is not right it needs a 3/8 spacer to fit it just right

[caron1345]

I have a 2002 S10 2 wheel drive 4.3l with stick shift and drum brakes, Would the rear axle out of a 2002 S10 that is 4 wheel drive 4.3l and automatic with disk brakes. bolt right up to my truck?

[Petro]

The 4WD rear is 4.5" wider than the 2wd 54.5"WMS rear...It will bolt in no problems but the 2wd offset wheels will stick out past the fender...

[mrriverajr]

great write up.

[killyaself]

any info on the ebrake situation?? getting ready to swap 2nd gen disc rear for stock 1st gen drum rear..
mine is a 1st gen 2dr blazer, disc rear is also a 2dr but 2nd gen blazer..

thanks-shane

[Wrkn prgs]

Just to recap here.. it would be okay to swap out a '96 S10 rear end with a 98+ 2wd Blazer rear end without any fitment issues? The truck is body dropped too, so I don't want a wider rear end.