aluminum driveshaft/ single piece

[zerogravity58]

No exteneded cab s10's came with a one piece driveshaft. Only the reg cab ones came with it.

[gmc52789]

i no i didnt say it was a single but was wondering if one could be put in or any way to fix mine it has the consivelocity in the rear special for that year and make dealearship wants 1200 for a new one. anyone no what im talking about? the part i busted is the rear yold that bolts to the diffrential.

[zerogravity58]

special for that year? i dont know about that. Pull a driveshaft out of an older extended cab and take the yolk off the rear with it.

[gmc52789]

there diffrent the one i have has a constintvalocity joint in the rear.

[zerogravity58]

Thats what im saying. All the exteneded cab driveshafts are the same length if i remember correctly. So you can get a driveshaft out of an older S10 and do the swap. Then you can get rid of that joint. All it is is a double U-joint. They added this because they have alot of problem with loaded s10's and the pinion angles and vibration. So the joint was supposed to solve that but it doesnt really do nothing.

[s1043]

Quote: Originally Posted by zerogravity58

No exteneded cab s10's came with a one piece driveshaft. Only the reg cab ones came with it.

not true extended cab ZR2s came with one piece alum. shafts...

[rxforspeed]

ATTENTION-the 4x4/4WD S-10 extended cab driveshafts won't fit a 4x2/2WD S-10 extended cab truck. The 4WD trucks are equipped with a transfer case between the tranny and driveshaft, reducing the overall length of the shaft!

Oops-this thread's older than I thought it was. Anyway, a quick fix for a busted constant velocity/dual-cardigan two-piece driveshaft would be to swap in an older or newer extended cab 2WD two-piece driveshaft AND the pinion yoke if it differs between the two. You'll save a LOT of money by sticking with the most common parts from the non-CV shafts then paying upwards of a grand for a replacement from the dealer. I'd be willing to bet that most of the '98 CV shafts from your local salvage yard are already gone because of their rarity. It would be possible to change out the shaft AND the pinion yoke for a quick fix, or even go the aluminum route that this thread's based on which requires removing your carrier bearing crossmember, cutting a section of floor out of the rear of your cab, and welding in a clearance tunnel to prevent your pretty aluminum shaft from contacting the underside of your cab and rendering it useless (aluminum is MUCH more pliable than steel, meaning that almost ANY small scrape, nick, or cut will probably throw it out of balance and ultimately lead to complete failure). You'll also have to pay a driveshaft shop around $100 or more for modification of the full size truck's aluminum shaft to fit between your mini truck's tranny and axle, on top of the cost of the used shaft from the junk yard. The single piece shaft is more suspectible to vibration and noise from improper pinion angles throughout the range of suspension travel due to the length and geometry of all the related components. To make a long story short, if you don't feel like undertaking a major task and cutting up your truck (and if you don't have a welder or can't weld), then just stick with the stock-style two-piece shaft. Pinion angles are critical to the life of u-joints, pinion bearings, carrier bearings, and tranny output shafts and bearings. If you don't know what you're doing, buy all of your suspension components in a COMPLETE KIT or better yet, pay a reputable shop or fabricator to perform your modifications. You'll save time, money, and a LOT of headaches in the long run!

-Adam Collins

[joshuaT]

Quote: Originally Posted by zerogravity58

this is for all of you ext cab guys who want an one piece driveshaft or for you standard cab guys who want to switch to aluminum. While i was in the process of building my truck i want to ditch the 2 piece shaft and put in a single piece steel. While i was thinking about this i found out that newer 2500 chevy pickups come with 4" aluminum driveshafts. for $50 i went and took one out of one in a junkyard. The driveshaft is about 68 1/2" long and will have to be cut down for almost everbody. I had to take 4" off mine. I just wanted to let everyone know that if you want to change to a single piece or upgrade you can pull one out of this truck and have it shortened for a few bucks. The rear U joint fits both the 8.5 and 7.5, the only thing you will have to do is have the tranny yokes changed. These shafts are strong with all welded joints (some have crimped ends)
Just wanted to let everyone know. Pm me if you have any questions.

So any newer truck comes with the aluminum shaft or were there specific 2500's that had them? Might find one for my blazer.

[zerogravity58]

some 1500's may come with them not sure but i do know some 2500 come with them. My 2500 has steel shafts but i know a few people who have aluminum.

[zerogravity58]

Quote: Originally Posted by rxforspeed

ATTENTION-the 4x4/4WD S-10 extended cab driveshafts won't fit a 4x2/2WD S-10 extended cab truck. The 4WD trucks are equipped with a transfer case between the tranny and driveshaft, reducing the overall length of the shaft!

Oops-this thread's older than I thought it was. Anyway, a quick fix for a busted constant velocity/dual-cardigan two-piece driveshaft would be to swap in an older or newer extended cab 2WD two-piece driveshaft AND the pinion yoke if it differs between the two. You'll save a LOT of money by sticking with the most common parts from the non-CV shafts then paying upwards of a grand for a replacement from the dealer. I'd be willing to bet that most of the '98 CV shafts from your local salvage yard are already gone because of their rarity. It would be possible to change out the shaft AND the pinion yoke for a quick fix, or even go the aluminum route that this thread's based on which requires removing your carrier bearing crossmember, cutting a section of floor out of the rear of your cab, and welding in a clearance tunnel to prevent your pretty aluminum shaft from contacting the underside of your cab and rendering it useless (aluminum is MUCH more pliable than steel, meaning that almost ANY small scrape, nick, or cut will probably throw it out of balance and ultimately lead to complete failure). You'll also have to pay a driveshaft shop around $100 or more for modification of the full size truck's aluminum shaft to fit between your mini truck's tranny and axle, on top of the cost of the used shaft from the junk yard. The single piece shaft is more suspectible to vibration and noise from improper pinion angles throughout the range of suspension travel due to the length and geometry of all the related components. To make a long story short, if you don't feel like undertaking a major task and cutting up your truck (and if you don't have a welder or can't weld), then just stick with the stock-style two-piece shaft. Pinion angles are critical to the life of u-joints, pinion bearings, carrier bearings, and tranny output shafts and bearings. If you don't know what you're doing, buy all of your suspension components in a COMPLETE KIT or better yet, pay a reputable shop or fabricator to perform your modifications. You'll save time, money, and a LOT of headaches in the long run!

-Adam Collins

I just saw this post. Yea you do have to modify the floor as stated before. I never said this was easy or a 10 minute fix. Also before you say about pinion angles and one piece shaft and all this other crap. What do you think the fullsizes have? i had the shaft CUT to put it in my truck. Fullsize truck run longer single piece shafts then any s10 would ever run. If the 2 piece shaft was such a great thing then all trucks would have them. The biggest thing is modifing the floor. Having the shaft cut and all is simple. Getting the pinion angle is simple. I went 10.5's @130 MPH on this setup for 4 straight years. So dont tell me what will work and what wont. This shaft had plenty of street miles and countless 1/4 mile passes on it. If you dont want to do it then dont i could care less. Some people might want to take the job on. Its not really that hard.

[rixtrix1]

Quote: Originally Posted by zerogravity58

This is true you do have to clearance the floor as stated above...plus if you hit the aluminum and dent it then you are pretty much done..Im running a single piece 5" and my truck is lowered 4" all the way around and i havent had any problems with it. With a single piece over a 2 piece there is less drivetrain loss. I dont understand how a car is to fast for a single piece driveshaft?

Too Fast means that due to the design and metalllurgy of driveshafts, there is a design limitation on how long one can be for a certain RPM, without the rotational harmonics of a u-joint causing it to fail. Everytime a u-joint rotates 90 degrees, it acts like the differential in a rear axle. The trunnion(cap) on the inside of the angle slows down and the outside one has to speed up. As the RPM gets higher( and there is a limitation on the length of the driveshaft, too), one gets closer to exceeding the modulus of elasticity of the design and the shaft distorts, twists or breaks. Ever see a long delivery truck , or a school bus, with a one piece driveshaft. The loading on the individual pieces is much lower than if it was a one iece shaft. This is why the new Mustangs(UGH!)have a two piece shaft. Clearance is an issue, but so is reliability, as long as the shaft angles are correct, a 2 piece is great.

[rmason256]

I am running a aluminum shaft out of a trailblazer in a 1st gen regular cab and short bed. the shaft was the about the same size as the factory one. Maybe a half to a inch shorter which is good for lowered trucks. Did not have to cut just installed. works great

Robert

[RazorS10]

Quote: Originally Posted by zerogravity58

no if they shorten it and its out they can rebalcne them. it cost me like $125 to have it shortened with new U joints.

What year truck did you get the driveshaft out of?

[zerogravity58]

i pulled it out of a wrecked 02 chevy 2500HD

[fbodyguy86]

my dad has a 2500 and he needed a new driveshaft for (caps were messed up on the rear)and took it to a driveshaft shop around here they said they couldnt do it on those bigger (4in) shafts cause they have an internal torque tube and wouldnt be able to rebalance the shaft once it was rewelded back together or they couldnt weld the inner tube back on or something so he got one at a salvage yard for $60

george

[joshuaT]

So by doing this alloy mod what increases will I get? How much lighter is it overall? I want to make my blazer a little lighter due to my speakers and box.

[chadzx11]

Guy at work has an 03 regular cab long bed with a 2.2. One piece aluminum drive shaft. Is this the same length as an extended cab drive shaft? That long ass frame looks wierd with no crossmember.

[ineedboost]

Quote: Originally Posted by zerogravity58

this is for all of you ext cab guys who want an one piece driveshaft or for you standard cab guys who want to switch to aluminum. While i was in the process of building my truck i want to ditch the 2 piece shaft and put in a single piece steel. While i was thinking about this i found out that newer 2500 chevy pickups come with 4" aluminum driveshafts. for $50 i went and took one out of one in a junkyard. The driveshaft is about 68 1/2" long and will have to be cut down for almost everbody. I had to take 4" off mine. I just wanted to let everyone know that if you want to change to a single piece or upgrade you can pull one out of this truck and have it shortened for a few bucks. The rear U joint fits both the 8.5 and 7.5, the only thing you will have to do is have the tranny yokes changed. These shafts are strong with all welded joints (some have crimped ends)
Just wanted to let everyone know. Pm me if you have any questions.

Which yolks did you have to change? I would prob have to change my yolk in my rear, its a stupid 4 bolt flange. If I got a shaft out of a truck that already had a 4l60e I should be good with the front yolk. Where did you get your shaft cut at? Im in DE cant seem to locate a place , but I'm right on the MD/DE line.

[dimerunner88]

btw alot of the OBS fullsizes had aluminum shafts aswell,mine has the 4 inch one.

[RazorS10]

Quote: Originally Posted by zerogravity58

no if they shorten it and its out they can rebalcne them. it cost me like $125 to have it shortened with new U joints.

Whats the stock lenght of a stock 2 piece driveshaft?

[zerogravity58]

im not to sure what the stock length is. Its been awhile and i cant remember

[RazorS10]

If i cant get a one piece its no need to do my swap.

[RazorS10]

i have an 03 zq8 5spd

[supercharger01]

I have a 2 piece driveshaft on my '91 standard cab long bed would i have any clearance issues if i got an aluminum drive shaft from a newer full size?

[idriz]

any one have pics of there drive shafts and notches in the cab?? thanks

[AnnDee4444]

I'm dropped 3-4" in the rear. The scratches on the driveshaft were from testing (too soft of a spring and shock combo) and occured under WOT, so it's probably a tad bit unbalanced.

Note the big-ass notch i had to put in the subframe and the hammered section of the rear cab. Also I had to cut the cab floor parallel to the driveshaft, directly above it.

I'm still having pinion angle issues, but the entire shaft weighs 17lbs vs. the 45lbs stock... I think it did more for power than pulleys, intake, or headers (mmm rotational inertia) but was offset by my wheels .


oh and the notch is an old section of pipe that I cut up

[S15vortecpwr]

sorry did not read the entire thread about the driveshaft. just skimmed thru it

I was looking thru the newest 4x4 offroad mag and seen that IEDLS.COM has an advertisement for 1 piece aluminum DS that replace the 2 piece dual cardon shafts. went to their website, and no info on that shaft or any other DS.

[ridered600]

Yep, i'm digging this thread from the grave. Hit the boneyard this morning and found an '01 ZR2 ext. cab aluminum driveshaft.

I have an '01 ZQ8 reg. cab 5-spd. I didn't see an answer to this, but has anyone done this swap yet. Direct fit (??) or cut/weld?

Thanks in advance.

[2separate]

Pardon me cause this is old shit, but with the cardan rear half I still could never seem to dial in and be vibe free. I found a way lighter driveshaft from the wreckers just to see if ditching the cardan would help. Cost me $150 to shorten/ balance with new joints, even the slip yoke had the same splines.
Well....after swapping pinion/yoke flange I took it for a boot and just as I get to 20ks it shakes rattles and rolls up until about 40k.....but there's never vibration pushing 80-120k at any height, like the cardan did...for me.
I purchased Jagsthatrun...2pc alighnment kit and did my best to align this thing with a silly string. After all this typing and the actual work involved, at full ride height there's no vibes at any speed except when it's an inch off the ground and then it pulls an elvis on me. then goes away.
Ok......thanks.

[darkpunk]

Sorry for digging this old thread up again!!

I removed my 2 piece driveshaft brought it to a local shop to have them press out the u joints and remove the cv ball.....in this whole process they snapped the ears off between the flange and the front u joint!!!! So we were thinking of getting a aluminum shaft instead of that piece of artwork. My truck is not lowered! if anything i will lift it will a 5' aluminum shaft work for me? I got bigger tires on right now but im going to install my 2' lift springs and lift the back with shackles. What do you guys think?

Matt

[More Displacement]

Know this thread is old but if anybody wants to know I took a couple of minutes to go on summitracing.com and they sell driveshaft yokes for 22 bucks a piece 50 bucks plus whatever the tube would cost. Then just go have it balanced. Probably get it done for under $200. They fit on a 3 inch tube so 2 inchs skinnier shaft should help with the floor and carrier crossmember support clearences. You can also buy a trans yoke for 60 bucks, new yoke and you know what type of you joint to use. Not sure about the axle yoke tho. Maybe one for the 8.5 axle but didnt find one for the 7.625 or 7.5. Think the axle yoke was around 70 bucks. Not bad, build a whole new driveshaft for around 350 bucks.