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5 Speed Swap How-To

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Old 02-15-2011, 07:57 PM   #1
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5 Speed Swap How-To

This write up is a how-to on how to convert a 98+ s10/ Sonoma 4.3 v6, 2wd, from automatic to manual. This write up is based on my experience and knowledge from doing my own swap on my truck, the truck that I swapped to 5 speed is a 2002 GMC Sonoma, 4.3, 2wd, ext cab. The whole swap took me about 14 hours from pulling the truck into the garage to driving it out, all the info in the write up I learned from reading forums both on s10forum.com as well as s10planet.com. A lot of people say that swapping from auto to manual is too expensive, takes too long and is not worth the trouble; these people are either lazy or don’t know how to do the swap so they say its too hard. This swap is actually pretty simple and straight forward, my buddy and I are 18 and we did it in a weekend, the swap goes smooth with the help of a buddy and the right tools. All info is off the top of my head so if a bolt size mentioned is incorrect I apologize.






Info to know
Although your trucks computer is programmed for an automatic transmission when you install the 5 speed transmission you will still be able to drive the truck although it will set off a whole bunch of check engine codes such as p0785, p1860, p1810, p0758, p0753, p0740. In order to correct the check engine codes you will need to go to your local dealer and get them to re-flash your computer to tell it that the truck is manual. The only wiring required for the whole swap is to wire in the reverse lights from the manual transmission into the automatic transmission harness which is really simple and only requires splicing in two wires. I was surprised to find that even before getting the computer re-flashed the cruise control still worked and you even need to press the clutch pedal in when you start the truck just as if it were stick from the factory. One tip for making the swap easy and headache free would be to place all the nuts and bolts in plastic zip loc bags and label where they came from and how many there were, this will save you time and aggravation upon reassembly. One issue that some people may run into is the issue of the y-pipe from the automatic not fitting properly once the standard transmission is installed, the problem occurs because the new transmission will sit a little bit lower which makes the y-pipe hit the bottom of the transmission. To solve this problem you can either search around for a standard transmission y-pipe or cut out the section of the automatic y-pipe where it hits the transmission and get a new piece of pipe bent to fit and welded in.
Here is a list of the parts that you will need to do the swap:
· Transmission (NV3500 for a 4.3) & (NV1500 for a 2.2)
· Clutch pedal assembly
· Clutch master cylinder (make sure it has the clutch safety switch)
· Clutch line
· Flywheel
· Clutch pressure plate
· Slave cylinder (this is the throw-out bearing)
· Shifter handle
· Shifter boot
· Pilot bearing (GM part #12557583)
· Transmission oil (GM part #12345349, the Canadian part # I believe is 89021808) The NV1500 uses different fluid
· Bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid (this is the fluid used in the clutch master cylinder)
· Reverse harness plug pigtail




Optional parts for the swap:
· Gauge cluster from a 5 speed truck (the kilometers are saved in the cluster NOT in the truck)
· Center console from a 5 speed truck
· Steering wheel shroud from a 5 speed truck or blazer/ jimmy with a floor shifter (get one with a tilt wheel if you have one)
· Floor grommet for the old automatic shifter cable


Tools needed:
· ¼”, 3/8”, ½” ratchets
· Various sockets such as 7mm, 10mm, 11mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm
· Wrenches 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm, and adjustable up to 1 ½ opening
· 2” metal hole saw
· 17mm allen key/ hex head
· Grinder/ cutoff wheel (cut hole in the floor)
· Marker
· Oil pan/ bucket
· Torx bits T-10, T-15, T-20
· Pry bar/ big flat head screw driver
· Extensions for 3/8 and ½ ratchet
· 4 – 6 jack stands
· Metal drill bit 1/8 or next size down
· Clutch alignment tool (should come with a new clutch)
· Creeper
· Air tools (impact gun and air ratchet)
· Channel locks or adjustable pliers
· Flex sockets
· Piece of wood (12 inch piece of 2x4)
· Loctite


Here are a few links that can be used for cross reference:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f13/how-to-change-clutch-96-2003-2-2-and-4-3-5speed-178334/

Step 1
Lifting the truck
Lift the truck with a jack about 1.5 to 2 feet off the ground so that you have enough room to slide under the truck with a creeper as well as having enough room to slide the old transmission out under the frame rail.




Step 2
Installing the clutch pedal
The bracket for the clutch pedal is already there for the 98+ trucks, there are two holes that sit horizontally that the clutch pedal slips into with its spring loaded pins. If you take down the under dash (7mm socket needed) above the pedals you will see the slot that the pedal sits in, it is on the drivers side wheel well beside the brake pedal. You have to squeeze the pins in and push the pedal up into the slot and you will feel the pins lock in.
The clutch safety switch harness that knows when the clutch is pressed is already in the truck there is no need to run wires for the clutch pedal. If your truck has cruise control you will have a 6 pin harness, but if you don’t have cruise control you will have a 4 pin harness (the plug will have purple and brown wires). It is important that when you get the master cylinder it comes with the proper safety switch or else you will have to run to the dealer and get the proper switch which is about $60 CDN and chances are they don’t stock it.
The proper way to set up the pedals would be to replace the brake pedal with one from a 5 speed truck but in order to do that you have to remove the whole dash, the easier way to set up the pedals properly is to get a rubber cover for the clutch peal and cut the brake pedal down to size until the rubber cover fits over the pedal. The other option is to just leave the stock brake pedal the way it is, the only problem is that the clutch and brake pedals are really close together and you may push the brake by accident.




Step 3
Installing the clutch master cylinder
You will need a 2” metal hole saw to cut a hole for the master cylinder to mount to the firewall, there will be a dimple in the fire wall on the engine where you must drill the hole. When drilling the hole you have to cut only through the first layer of the firewall on the engine side and not all the way into the cab, the firewall is made of two pieces of metal sandwiched together, the second layer has a square cut into it which the clutch master cylinder twists and locks into.
In order to get access to the dimple to drill the hole you will need to move both the brake cylinder distributer out of the way along with the under the hood fuse panel (also you must move the cruise control box if your truck is equip with cruise) I believe all of the bolts are 10mm. once you have cut the hole attach the clutch line and run it down to the transmission right under the brake master cylinder, the line should end up on the inside of the driver side frame rail right after the exhaust manifold. Once the line is run feed the clutch master cylinder into the opening that you just drilled, the master cylinder should go in on a 45 degree angle, once all the way in truck the cylinder counter clock wise and it will lock into place.
When the master cylinder arm comes into the cab just simply attach the arm to the pedal by clipping it into place and plug the clutch safety switch harness into the clutch safety switch.







Step 4
Removing the automatic column shifter
Start by removing the under dash as well as the panel right underneath the steering wheel, followed by the steering wheel shroud (7mm socket and either a T-15 or T-20 torx). Once all of the panels are remove it will be easy to access the column shifter, the column shifter is mounted to the column with I believe 3 torx screws. Once the screws are removed you will have to disconnect the key cylinder lock cable (this cable prevents the key from coming out of the ignition when the automatic transmission is not in park) from the shifter (do not disconnect the cable from the key cylinder because it may screw up the key cylinder). Once the cable is disconnected tuck it into the wires running down the steering column, once the cable is tucked away check to make sure the key cylinder still works properly by turning the key to the run position and off again.
With the three screws removed from the shifter the shifter will be loose but still connected to the steering column by a pin located half way down the column, just pop the shifter off the pin and disconnect the shifter cable from the shifter. The next step is to remove the automatic shifter cable which goes from the column to under the carpet where it exits through the floor through a grommet right in front of the drivers’ seat. Once the grommet is removed either insert the new grommet from a 5 speed or take the cable out of the grommet and pop the grommet back in place.








Step 5
Driveshaft removal
First you will want to remove the hanger bearing bolts, I think they are 19mm (I believe only ext cabs have hanger bearings). The hanger bearing it located in the middle of the drive shaft and it sitting on top of a cross member right before where the cab and the bed meet. Next you will remove the four bolts holding the drive shaft to the differential, my truck has a custom driveshaft so it may be different from the stock one, I believe the stock driveshaft disconnects by the four bolts holding on the two u-bolt style clamp things (I have no clue what they are called lol).
Now put an oil pan or bucket underneath where the driveshaft goes into the transmission because it will probably leak out a bit of transmission fluid when you pull out the drive shaft. When the bucket is in place slide the drive shaft out towards the back of the truck and it will pop out of the transmission. It is easiest to remove the driveshaft by sliding it all the way out from the back of the truck over top of the transmission cross member (and the hanger bearing cross member for ext cabs). Once removed set it aside where you won’t be tripping over it.
This is a video I found on YouTube that shows exactly how to remove the driveshaft:






Step 6
Transmission cross member removal
In order to remove the transmission cross member you will have to remove a total of 7 bolts and 1 nut, the one nut will be the one holding the transmission mount to the cross member and I believe the nut is a 15mm. After removing the transmission mount nut you will want to support the transmission with either a jack or jack stand to prevent it from wanting to sag down once the transmission cross member is removed. Next you will want to remove the three bolts located on the driver side frame rail which connect the cross member to the frame rail, there will be 3 bolts, 2 of which I think are 15mm and one 13mm. the two longer bolts on the outer side of the frame rail will have a backup nut on top of the frame rail and will require a backup wrench which is either a 15mm or 13mm.
Once the first 3 bolts have been removed along with the transmission mount nut it is time to remove the four bolts on the passenger side of the cross member, these will be located on top of the cross member and go through the frame rail, they will be 15mm and you will need a backup wrench to stop the bolt from spinning.
When all four bolts are out the cross member should hang down but will not come off because it is still attached to the exhaust y-pipe, it is not necessary to remove the rubber hanger’s just move on to the next step.





Step 7
Exhaust removal
Now that the cross member has been loosened you will need to take the exhaust y-pipe off, it is not necessary to remove the whole exhaust system. Start by disconnecting the co2 sensor (3 of them all together) there will be one on either side of the y pipe where it connects to the exhaust manifold and the last one will be right near the catalytic converter. Next disconnect the flange located after the catalytic converter where it meets the rest of the tailpipe (you will probably need to get a new gasket for the flange, they can be purchased at any automotive parts store or exhaust shop). When I got my gasket I just traced out the flange on a piece of paper and took it into my parts store and they matched it up with one they had.
Now with the flange disconnected the next step is to remove the three nuts holding the y-pipe onto the exhaust manifold on either side of the transmission I believe they are 13mm, this job is made easier by using your impact gun with a long extension and a deep socket if available. Be careful not to lose the little exhaust doughnuts that sit in between where the y-pipe and the exhaust manifold meet. Now the y-pipe and the transmission cross member should come out as one piece.


Step 8
Transmission removal
First you will want to unplug the 4 transmission harness’s, there will two on the passenger side and the other two are on the driver side. Once they are all disconnected you will have to remove a total of 8 bolts that hold the transmission to the motor they should be 15mm. First you will want to remove the top 4 bolts which are a pain in the a**, it will make the job much easier if you disconnect all the body mounts that hold the cab and front end to the frame and then jack up the body off of the frame. MAKE SURE that you disconnect all of the body mounts both on the passenger side and driver side, single cabs will have 6 mounts and ext cabs will have 8 mounts, the mounts on the cab should be 15mm and the two in the front on either side of the radiator should be 18mm. If you don’t disconnect all of the body mounts and jack up the cab off of the frame you will flex the cab and the hood and doors WILL NOT shut properly afterwards. After jacking up the body about 5 – 6 inches you will want to lower the transmission and let it hang, this will make a lot more room for you to get your impact gun with a long extension in there to remove the bolts.
When the top 4 bolts are disconnected continue to remove the last 4, once all of the bolts are removed the transmission will still be attached to the motor by the input shaft, it is not necessary to support the transmission because it will not fall. The last step is to remove the transmission dipstick tube that goes up to the engine bay. To remove the dipstick just simply pry the dipstick tube out of where it goes into the transmission with either a pair of pliers or a flathead screwdriver.
The next step is to remove the transmission cooler lines that go from the passenger side of the transmission to the radiator. I believe that the size of the hex head on the line is an 18mm, get a bucket or oil pan ready to catch any transmission fluid that comes out of the line when you disconnect it. When you have disconnected the lines from the transmission go ahead and disconnect the lines from the radiator, they will go to the same radiator as the engine coolant and connect both at the top and bottom of the radiator on the passenger side, and again I believe the lines have an 18mm hex head.
The final step is to remove the transmission; this can be a bit of a job because the transmission is heavy and awkward to get a hold of. First off you will want to place a bucket or oil pan under where the transmission mounts to the motor because more than likely fluid will pour out of the bellhousing once the transmission is cracked loose. To crack the transmission loose it will take a bit of wiggling the transmission back and forth along with using your pry bar or flathead screwdriver to pry the bellhousing away from the engine. When the transmission is cracked loose let it hang there until most of the fluid has drained out, once most of the fluid had leaked out carefully slide the transmission back towards the back of the truck and lower it to the ground trying to keep it as level as possible so transmission fluid doesn’t leak out of where the dipstick was.





Step 9
Removing the torque converter and flex plate (flywheel)
The first step is to remove the torque converter, which is done my removing the three bolts holding it on to the flex plate; the bolts are located between the flex plate and the engine block (I can’t remember the size of the bolts). When removing these bolts you will have to hold the flex plate from spinning while you try to loosen the bolts, this can be done by using a flat head screw driver propped up from the ground and wedged into one of the teeth of the flex plate. These bolts are extremely tight and can strip easily, I only managed to get one out and had to cut the other two out with a Sawzall (if you do need to cut the bolts out it is easiest to cut the bolts in between the torque converter and the flex plate).
Once the torque converter is out its time to remove the flex plate, this is done by removing the six 13mm bolts that attach the flex plate to the motor. These bolts also can strip easily so be careful (I used and impact gun so the ratchet wouldn’t slip). Once all six bolts are removed the flex plate should come off no problem.









Step 10
Pilot bushing (bearing) install
To install the pilot bearing (GM part #12557583) you will need a hammer and a piece of wood, in the middle of the output portion of the engine where the flex plate was attached to is a hole where you will install the pilot bearing. Place the bearing in the hole ensuring that it is sitting nice and flush, tap the bearing into place with the piece of wood until it sits as far as it can in the hole. You will want to use a piece of wood so that you will not damage the bearing; this bearing is going to be where the input shaft for the 5 speed transmission will sit in.




Step 11
Cutting the shifter hole
This job is made a lot easier by removing the entire carpet in the truck.
When under the truck you will notice there is a spot where there are two layers of metal, this spot is right in the center of the truck in the transmission tunnel. There will be three holes on the first layer of metal this is where you will drill holes in the center of each hole for the shifter boot to mount to. Take your 1/8 drill bit or smaller and drill the three holes, next go inside the cab of the truck and find the three holes (these will be the holes that line up with the rear of the shifter boot) now use you 7mm screws (whatever size you want) and attach the boot to the floor. Once the boot is attached to the floor drill out the remaining holes to mount the shifter boot, when they are all drilled out and the screws have been put in take your marker and trace out the inside of the shifter boot through the opening for the shifter stick. This mark will be what you have to cut out of the floor to allow the transmission shifter to come up through the floor into the cab. Remove the shifter boot and cut out the markings, this is easily done with a cutoff wheel (be mindful of your interior considering there will be sparks flying). It’s not necessary but is a good idea to file down the edges of the hole so you don’t cut your self in the future also it makes for a nice clean job.










Step 12
Flywheel install
If using a used flywheel it is a good idea to get it machined because you have everything apart already and there is no point using a non machined flywheel on a brand new clutch. To install the flywheel just do the opposite of what was done to remove the flex plate, hold the flywheel up in place making sure the centering pin is in the right spot and put in the six 13mm bolts (use Loctite on these bolt or they will come loose). Tighten these bolts in a cross pattern and torque them to 75 ft/lbs for a 4.3 and 55 ft/lbs for a 2.2.




Step 13
Clutch install
I suggest putting in a new clutch and pressure plate because you already have everything apart and it is practical to do it now instead of doing a few months later. To install the clutch you will need a clutch alignment tool (they usually come with a new clutch), clutch and pressure plate. Hold the pressure plate and clutch up against the flywheel and insert your clutch alignment tool to line everything up, one everything is in line you can bolt the clutch to the flywheel using your six 13mm bolts, once again tighten the bolts in a cross pattern and make sure that you use Loctite or else the bolts will fall out. Torque the bolts to 29 ft/lbs for a 4.3 and 33 ft/lbs for a 2.2, some kits will come with a lubricant that is to be put on the input shaft of the transmission, if your clutch kit comes with the lube put it on now. Next just remove your clutch alignment tool and you’re on to the next step.



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Old 02-15-2011, 07:58 PM   #2
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Step 14
Transmission install
Once the clutch is installed it is basically just putting everything back the way you took it out, starting with the transmission. The easiest way to get the transmission back in place it to lie down on a creeper with the transmission resting on your chest and legs with your head pointing towards the front of the truck. With the transmission on top of you and the body jacked up off of the frame you will want to slide the transmission input shaft through the clutch and pressure plate and into the pilot bearing, the trick to this step is getting the teeth on the input shaft to line up with the teeth of the clutch plate. To get the teeth to line up it is easiest to push the transmission into place as someone turns the output shaft of the transmission while it is in gear (this will spin the input shaft and when the teeth line up the transmission should be able to be wiggled into place). Once the transmission input shaft is into the pilot bearing it’s just a matter of wiggling the transmission forward until the bellhousing sits flush with the engine block (you can tighten the transmission mounting bolts in cross pattern tightening each one a little bit at a time to pull the transmission into place), at this point reinstall all of the 8 15mm bolts that hold the transmission to the engine (you will notice that on one of the upper bolts on the driver side there is a bracket that holds the wires for the transmission this bracket has to be mounted with the upper transmission bolt to prevent the wires from falling or sagging).




Step 15
Transmission wiring
There will be two plugs on the standard transmission one will be a speed sensor which will be located on the tail shaft section of the transmission and the other will be a reverse sensor plug which will be on the driver side of the transmission (this sensor is basically a switch and allows 12 volts to flow through it when the transmission is in reverse). The speed sensor will be the same on both the automatic and stick transmission and should just plug in, it will be located on the driver side of the transmission. The reverse plug will need to be wired into the automatic transmission harness; it is just a matter of connecting two wires which is not a big deal at all. To connect the reverse harness you will splice the pink wire from the reverse harness pigtail into the pink wire of the automatic harness in the truck (the trucks harness is the harness that is the bigger of the three remaining harnesses but it is not the round one), the green wire from the harness pigtail will be connected to the grey wire in the trucks harness. The best way to make these connections is to solder and tape the splice, this will prevent the connection from coming lose and will resist the weather and elements.



Step 16
Reinstallation of miscellaneous parts
Lower the cab of the truck on to the frame and tighten all of the body mounts back up including the two on the front of the truck on either side of the radiator.
Reinstall these parts just as you took them out
- Exhaust (be sure to reconnect your o2 sensors)
- Transmission cross member
- Driveshaft



Step 17
Filling the transmission with oil
The next step is to fill the transmission with oil, but these transmissions take a special type of oil called synchromesh if you don’t use the proper oil you can kill your transmission. At first I used GM synchromesh from the dealer but was not happy with it and decided to run Royal Purple Synchromax which I found to be much better. To fill the transmission with oil you will want to take a 17mm Allen key and take out the top oil plug located on the passenger side of the transmission and fill the transmission with oil until it sits just at the bottom of the fill plug. The best way to fill the transmission is to use a bottle with a curved tube coming out of it almost like a hamster water bottle, this will make in easier to get to the award position of the transmission fill plug. To be safe you will want to get 3 Quarts of oil, you will use about 2 and a quarter bottles to fill the transmission to the point where it should be.

Step 18
Clutch line connection and bleeding
This is the last step of the swap and is quite simple, to connect the clutch line to slave cylinder (throw out bearing) it just a matter of pushing the line into the connector on the slave cylinder which is located on the driver side of the bellhousing, the line should just click into place and not be able to be pulled out by giving it a little tug. After the line is connected open the clutch fluid reservoir and fill it about ¾ of the way with DOT 3 brake fluid. Lastly its time to bleed the clutch, do this by opening the bleeder valve (which is 13mm) and having someone hold the pedal to the floor until a steady stream of fluid runs out. Then close it. Pump the pedal a few times then do it again. It should take less than 5. You will notice the pedal is stiffer. Once you are positive all of the air is out of the line fill the reservoir back up ¾ of the way and you are ready to go for a drive.


Old 02-15-2011, 11:18 PM   #3
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

bad ass...... This is some usefull info. Someone sticky this!
Old 02-16-2011, 12:24 AM   #4
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

wow very VERY nice install congrads!!!
Old 02-17-2011, 11:54 PM   #5
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

What size bolts are for the clutch plate to flywheel. I wanna say they are 3/8x16 or 24. as soon as i get another vehicle i will also be doing the swap on my 94 to 4x4 5spd. Great how to by the way.
Old 02-18-2011, 12:33 AM   #6
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Awesome bro! Got myself a trans so far... currently saving for the rest. Glad someone finally sat down and got everything together thats needed and into a how-to! Great write up!
Old 02-18-2011, 10:30 PM   #7
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by Tim89
What size bolts are for the clutch plate to flywheel. I wanna say they are 3/8x16 or 24. as soon as i get another vehicle i will also be doing the swap on my 94 to 4x4 5spd. Great how to by the way.
I think they are 13mm, but its has been a while since i did the swap
Old 02-22-2011, 04:06 AM   #8
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

instead of getting the ecu reflashed by gm, is it possible to use the ecu out of the 5 speed donor truck? would both trucks have to be vortec?
Old 02-22-2011, 10:03 AM   #9
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by supora
instead of getting the ecu reflashed by gm, is it possible to use the ecu out of the 5 speed donor truck? would both trucks have to be vortec?
I would say ya both motors would probably need to be the vortec, as far as swapping the ecu deathphoenix99 would probably be the guy to talk to he knows a bit about electrical.
Old 02-22-2011, 11:04 AM   #10
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

You can swap the ECU's if they are the same year, although I believe you'll have to swap the BCM as well on 98+. There have been guys who have swapped the 98+ ECU into the 96-97 trucks as well, but you have to repin the connectors. There's a thread stating how to somewhere. And I believe you have to have 98+ tuned to be swapped into 96-97.
Old 02-22-2011, 11:07 AM   #11
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

roughly how much $$ did the swap out cost? I have 97' auto, and have been dying for a manual
Old 02-22-2011, 03:16 PM   #12
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by aosparks
roughly how much $$ did the swap out cost? I have 97' auto, and have been dying for a manual
well i bought a parts truck for 1000 bucks but found out the tranny was screwed when i took it out, so a new tranny was 800, the new clutch and slave cylinder was 400 ish and oil, DOT3 fluid and other little parts was about 60. So in total around 2400
Old 03-01-2011, 07:19 PM   #13
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Is the reverse harness plug the same on the NV1500's as the 3500? I found a reverse plug pigtail from a 2.2 truck, but I cant find one from a 4.3 without buying the whole body harness.
Old 03-03-2011, 05:58 PM   #14
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Not sure if it is the same plug but if you post a pic i might be able to tell you.

A little update on the computer side of the swap... so i just spent 118 bucks for the dealer to tell me that they cannot program my BCM to 5 speed

These are my options:

1. Remove my check engine light bulb (wont matter if its there or not because a new error code would not trip the light because its already on)

2. Swap the BCM from my 5 speed donor truck (not sure if it will work, also it might mess around with the GM passlock security so i will have to do a bit of research)

3. Just live with the light on
Old 03-03-2011, 07:17 PM   #15
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

If the codes arent affecting the shifting of the truck or how it runs I'd just take the light out. Mine stays on anyways because i have no cat so thats what i'll do.
Old 03-03-2011, 07:21 PM   #16
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

And im having a hard time finding what dimple your talking about drilling for the master being that there are like 5 in a small spot. I snapped a pic, used paint and put a different color dot in each dimple i think it could be... im really thinking its the lowest one... or the brown one in my pic.
Old 03-03-2011, 10:18 PM   #17
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

I'm pretty sure it is the lowest one in the pic. If you wanna double check just to make sure it is the right dimple you can take a punch and tap a little dent in the firewall from the inside of the truck where the square cutout is for the master cylinder assembly to go through the firewall.
Old 03-04-2011, 03:24 AM   #18
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

True, didn't think about that. Are the 2 layers of metal layed right on top of eachother or is there some space between the 2 layers? When i was feeling around i saw a circle cut into the foam/rubber heat shield stuff and i could kinda make out a square in the metal but it felt like the layers of metal were right on top of eachother so there was really no definative square i could feel..
Old 03-04-2011, 12:38 PM   #19
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Ya that's the square I'm talking about, there are two layers of metal right on top of each other, but the square is cut out of one of the layers so the inside of the square is only one layer of metal.
Old 03-04-2011, 10:16 PM   #20
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Sweet, yeah i finally found it! Got my Master mounted and im just waiting on my pedals and clutch now...
Old 03-04-2011, 10:22 PM   #21
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Sick post some pics when your all done
Old 03-04-2011, 10:41 PM   #22
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Definately going to man!
Old 03-04-2011, 11:03 PM   #23
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

...if anyone needs any parts, i am parting out a 2.2 5pd.
Old 03-04-2011, 11:47 PM   #24
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

The swap can be done cheaper if you look around I just bought a used nv3500 for $200 off ebay with a new slave cylinder in it. I purchased the master cylinder, clutch pedal and brake pedal for just under $30 shipped from another member. I just need a clutch, flywheel and blazer 5spd console yet. Also on the ecm issue I believe you can get another ecm for a 5spd of the same year and just get it programmed with your vin# I have been doing some research and looking into it. Will let you know if I find out anymore on the ecm.
Old 03-04-2011, 11:54 PM   #25
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Oh I also picked up a manual cluster from the u pull it for like $20 and I still need the clutch fluid line. I also have for sale if anyone is interested another nv3500 out of an older S10 which has the shifter towards the front of the case unlike the newer ones where it is near the rear of the case. Along with the transfer case, the clutch pedal setup and master cylinder. I can send pics if anyone is interested pm me.
Old 03-06-2011, 12:22 PM   #26
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Clutch pedal price?
Old 03-06-2011, 12:33 PM   #27
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by XDime99
Clutch pedal price?
just the clutch pedal? or the whole assembly?
Old 03-07-2011, 07:58 AM   #28
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Just a pedal.
Old 03-08-2011, 01:21 AM   #29
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

how do you remove the just the clutch pedal from the donor
Old 03-08-2011, 02:26 AM   #30
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by 01BlazerSS
The swap can be done cheaper if you look around I just bought a used nv3500 for $200 off ebay with a new slave cylinder in it.


WHAT?!



every time i've looked they are over 500 WITH 500 core charge...


btw VERY nice write up, just wish ur photo's were better but thats with ur phone isn't it?

big help for me since i'm going to be doing this soon as well
Old 03-08-2011, 03:10 PM   #31
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by hubbadub
how do you remove the just the clutch pedal from the donor
You have to remove the dash to get access to the spring loaded pins that lock the clutch pedal into place. When the dash is removed just squeeze the pins on either side of the pedal and the pedal should slip out of the channel that it sits in.
Old 03-09-2011, 08:17 AM   #32
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

thanks someguy. i did the whole swap yesterday except for the pedal and clutch master in about 8 hours. i ran into a really good deal and paid only $200 for trans slave cylinder clutch master and flywheel
Old 03-10-2011, 03:44 PM   #33
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

can u guys post some pics detailing your clutch pedal install?
Old 03-15-2011, 11:37 PM   #34
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by hubbadub
thanks someguy. i did the whole swap yesterday except for the pedal and clutch master in about 8 hours. i ran into a really good deal and paid only $200 for trans slave cylinder clutch master and flywheel
i ended up using a 94 pedal with some modification and it works perfectly. i removed the pedal from the bracket and made some slugs out of bar stock and bought a spring from the hardware store put the spring in the center of where the bolt went thru and ground down the slugs to fit the holes and it popped right in
Old 06-23-2011, 08:29 PM   #35
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

i bought my pedals for 19.50 but mine is the whole assembly with master from a 94.
Old 07-15-2011, 02:27 PM   #36
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

I just finished putting in a NV3500 in my truck, only real issues I had was my y-pipe no longer fit, speedo plug from at was not the same on the mt, and I had to twist the yellow and purple wires from the at plug together for neutral safety switch. Clutch pedal was easy enough just a pita to get to.
Old 12-11-2011, 12:01 AM   #37
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by The Smitty
I just finished putting in a NV3500 in my truck, only real issues I had was my y-pipe no longer fit, speedo plug from at was not the same on the mt, and I had to twist the yellow and purple wires from the at plug together for neutral safety switch. Clutch pedal was easy enough just a pita to get to.
I have the 2000 blazer 4x4 4dr, hopefully doing the swap tomorrow. Still unsure of how the clutch safety switch needs to be spliced in. What wires on my harness do i need to tie into? Im using my stock harness form the auto.. the donor truck i pulled parts from was a 2000 s10 4x4 w/ cruise control and the NSS still only has 4 wires??? Any Ideas?
Old 12-13-2011, 08:40 PM   #38
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

On my truck, the plug for the switch was already hanging under the dash... it was right up by the driver kick panel. What year is your truck? Look for either a 4 prong square plug if it has no cruise control, and a 6 pin long oval connector if it has cruise.
Old 12-14-2011, 01:53 AM   #39
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

When I did my 4.3 auto to lsx t56 I could only find a black 4prong connector under the dash with purple wires I jumped I think a &c pins to get it to crank. Mine has cruise so it took me forever trying to find a long 6 pin connector before I tried the 4 pin one.
Old 12-14-2011, 09:46 PM   #40
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

So, wait? Your truck has cruise.... but it had the 4-prong connector? Interesting...
Old 12-15-2011, 02:45 AM   #41
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Yep has cruise control and I jumped pin a&c in a black square 4 pin plug. Have about 1000miles on the swap so I know it works.
Old 12-15-2011, 02:47 AM   #42
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

There is a white straight 6 pin plug near the back 4 but didnt have the correct wire colors or pin letters that my service manual said to jump.
Old 01-05-2012, 07:21 PM   #43
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

ok i did the sawp on my 1996 chevy s10 and i found a 1999 chevy s10 with a 5 speed in it can i take the ECM from the 1999 and put it in the 1996 they both look the same im just wondering because 1996 was like the first year obd2

please help me if you can
Old 01-08-2012, 01:25 PM   #44
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

I have a 1993 s10 blazer 4.3l 2wd with a 2 door. In this guide how close would the swap be if i were to follow it? Like if i got the parts out of a truck of around the same year.
Old 01-25-2012, 03:23 AM   #45
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Angry Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Finally finished my swap, everything went off without a hitch, but.... I seem to have some sort of problem. Weather it be electrical or fuel related, i dont know. here's my specs: 2000 blazer 4 door 4x4 4.3 with a nv3500 from a 2000 GMC sonoma ext cab 4x4 4.3. got everything put back in their respective places, checked the reverse lights, gauges (manual gauges). Everything looks fine and then I push in the clutch to go to start the damn thing it fires up for about 2-3 seconds and immediately dies. Over and over again with the same results. When it fires up the throttle can be pressed and it wont respond, it just quits. I dunno where to start with the troubleshooting. will a OBD2 scanner help narrow it down? I'm over it just want it to run! Any ideas? Please.
Old 01-25-2012, 04:41 AM   #46
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Nice writeup. Very in depth
Old 01-25-2012, 09:30 AM   #47
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Quote: Originally Posted by hockeytemper
Finally finished my swap, everything went off without a hitch, but.... I seem to have some sort of problem. Weather it be electrical or fuel related, i dont know. here's my specs: 2000 blazer 4 door 4x4 4.3 with a nv3500 from a 2000 GMC sonoma ext cab 4x4 4.3. got everything put back in their respective places, checked the reverse lights, gauges (manual gauges). Everything looks fine and then I push in the clutch to go to start the damn thing it fires up for about 2-3 seconds and immediately dies. Over and over again with the same results. When it fires up the throttle can be pressed and it wont respond, it just quits. I dunno where to start with the troubleshooting. will a OBD2 scanner help narrow it down? I'm over it just want it to run! Any ideas? Please.
Sounds possibly like it could be a factory security issue i had a similar thing happen to my 99 jimmy when the battery kept going dead. Try leaving the ignition in the on position for 10 minutes and then turning it off, then go ahead and try to start the truck. It worked for me.
Old 01-25-2012, 10:30 AM   #48
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

This is an awesome wright up someone has neeeded to do this for a long time!!
Old 01-25-2012, 10:52 AM   #49
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Heres another question! on a 96 ss is there gona already be a spot for the clutch pedal also?
Old 02-21-2012, 11:06 AM   #50
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Re: 5 Speed Swap How-To

Awesome writeup, should be doing this on a 2wd 4.3 Xtreme soon
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