SD UCA shims

pearldrop · 11-06-2009, 05:05 PM

Does anybody have a good guess on how many shims I should use on the upper control arms? (Suicide Doors arms)

Of course, I should get an alignment to get it completely correct, but while I am still mocking everything up, I want to get the camber somewhat close to what it should be to make sure everything fits right. I know I will be tearing it apart again for paint before I get a final alignment.

colbye32 · 11-06-2009, 05:41 PM

when you remove the factory arms or whatever your running now, put the same amount back in just like they came out.. it will be close, but you don't need to drive it long like that, you can wear your tires very quickly

Geat · 11-06-2009, 05:46 PM

I wouldnt run any shims at all to be honest. It will get a lot more of neg camber. If your not really going to be driving it, you can eyeball the toe on it. Or use a long string tie it to the back of your wheel, wrap it around and pull it out really far. (farther the better) When you do this make sure the string is just barley touching the front of the tire (if you were sitting in the truck point of view). Do this to both wheels and measure the distance between the strings.

pearldrop · 11-06-2009, 05:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Geat

I wouldnt run any shims at all to be honest. It will get a lot more of neg camber. If your not really going to be driving it, you can eyeball the toe on it. Or use a long string tie it to the back of your wheel, wrap it around and pull it out really far. (farther the better) When you do this make sure the string is just barley touching the front of the tire (if you were sitting in the truck point of view). Do this to both wheels and measure the distance between the strings.

Thanks for your input.

No shims would give me less negative camber.

I took the shims out three years ago and lost the piece of paper that I wrote it on.
So I just want to get it back in the ballpark. Right now I'm only running a couple shims and it is definitely not enough negative camber. I go positive right about where the tire is even with the fender. So I have less than 1/16 inch clearance.

This is on modified stock control arms. I'm just about to put the SD arms in and wanted to get it somewhat close to where it will be after an alignment.

I don't even plan on driving it until I go in for an alignment, but I have a lot of other work to do before then.

I just hope somebody who has the arms and has been aligned could tell me how many shims they are running.

Geat · 11-06-2009, 06:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop

Thanks for your input.

No shims would give me less negative camber.

I took the shims out three years ago and lost the piece of paper that I wrote it on.
So I just want to get it back in the ballpark. Right now I'm only running a couple shims and it is definitely not enough negative camber. I go positive right about where the tire is even with the fender. So I have less than 1/16 inch clearance.

This is on modified stock control arms. I'm just about to put the SD arms in and wanted to get it somewhat close to where it will be after an alignment.

I don't even plan on driving it until I go in for an alignment, but I have a lot of other work to do before then.

I just hope somebody who has the arms and has been aligned could tell me how many shims they are running.

Yea, thats what I meant. Less camber with no shims.

I have no shims in mine, drop spindles. Front is not layd out yet though.

Geat · 11-06-2009, 06:22 PM

Went out in the garage and took this real quick. Locked up, UCA's hitting frame. Dustpan for camber reference.

Hope this helps ya.

pearldrop · 11-06-2009, 06:37 PM

If I was to take out the shims completely my tires would hit the fenders. When you bodydrop it, the fenders sit right at where the tire/wheel is most vertical.

I don't know how your caster is okay with no shims at all. The front bolt usually has more than the rear.

BTW: I love those wheels.

Geat · 11-06-2009, 06:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop

If I was to take out the shims completely my tires would hit the fenders. When you bodydrop it, the fenders sit right at where the tire/wheel is most vertical.

I don't know how your caster is okay with no shims at all. The front bolt usually has more than the rear.

BTW: I love those wheels.

Yea, the guy said it was alright where it was at. Im pretty damn close to the fenders right now because of spacers. I snag them all the time.

blazerida88 · 11-06-2009, 08:56 PM

if it mock up just throw enough in to clear the fenders, i just put my sd's on and im running 22's and i have to have a decent amount to clear the fenders and not hit them. i have drop spindles too.

mine have a good bit of camber and still just barely clear the fenders

blazerida88 · 11-06-2009, 08:56 PM

i am in mock up also though, i havent had it aligned

pearldrop · 11-06-2009, 09:01 PM

I will probably just put enough in to clear the fenders. I just hope that I have enough clearance in my firewall tubs for the extra camber. I almost wish I had made my tubs bigger so I could run stock spindles.

blazerida88 · 11-06-2009, 09:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop

I will probably just put enough in to clear the fenders. I just hope that I have enough clearance in my firewall tubs for the extra camber. I almost wish I had made my tubs bigger so I could run stock spindles.

yea i made my tubs pretty big, passenger side has a ton of room, and the driver side i tubbed it to be a couple inched from the brake pedal inside

NickZigaitis · 11-07-2009, 03:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Geat

Yea, thats what I meant. Less camber with no shims.

I have no shims in mine, drop spindles. Front is not layd out yet though.

Do you have any idea what the hell you're even talking about? And.....you're 25 miles high in the air compared to a body drop. Totally different picture for starters.

Geat · 11-07-2009, 07:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

Do you have any idea what the hell you're even talking about? And.....you're 25 miles high in the air compared to a body drop. Totally different picture for starters.

'

Where in his original post did he specify on a body dropped truck?

Please show me.

You fail yet again on trying to call me out. Good try though, better luck next time.

mr. steve · 11-07-2009, 09:18 PM

a truck thay lays frame, is the same as a bodydropped truck as far as supsension is concerned

NickZigaitis · 11-08-2009, 12:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by mr. steve

a truck thay lays frame, is the same as a bodydropped truck as far as supsension is concerned

No shit............Exactly.

NickZigaitis · 11-08-2009, 12:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Geat

'

Where in his original post did he specify on a body dropped truck?

Please show me.

You fail yet again on trying to call me out. Good try though, better luck next time.

Hope you posting an ass-hat for yourself. I follow with my original statement............ass-hat............do you know what the hell you're even talking about. Laying frame is laying frame, BD or not. You'll need shims sweetheart unless you want fvcked up tires.

NickZigaitis · 11-08-2009, 12:34 PM

To the original Poster...........

I've got 2" drop spindles and 18's up front. I have probably 1/2" worth of shims on the fronts. When laid out it gives me about 4-5* of camber. When fully lifted the camber is zero'd out. You do have to watch your toe-in/toe-out during the suspension stroke. More toe-in when lifted, toe-out when laid.

For an alignment you can go the old school way and measure front/back wheel spacing of the front tires.

1) Straighten the steering wheels to center.
2) Pick the front tire that appears closest to "straight" in relation to the steering wheel.
3) Measure distance between tires from the front and rear aspect of the tire.
4) Adjust tie-rods till both front and back measurements are equal.

Geat · 11-08-2009, 01:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

Hope you posting an ass-hat for yourself. I follow with my original statement............ass-hat............do you know what the hell you're even talking about. Laying frame is laying frame, BD or not. You'll need shims sweetheart unless you want fvcked up tires.

How am I going to need shims when I have my truck aligned at ride height? How is it going to fvck up my tires when it is aligned correctly at my ride height? Laying frame is laying frame body dropped or not yes, but what about fender clearances? That would be the only time you would need shims if you can get your truck aligned right with no shims in it.

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

My apologies. Had a rough ass day yesterday. Dodge a huge layoff sucessfully and I was hair triggered. Sorry. Have a good one.

Go ahead and blame your thought process on your bad day at work.

Maybe your anger has a detrimental affect on your english "you posting an ass-hat yourself?" What does this mean?

Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop

This is on modified stock control arms. I'm just about to put the SD arms in and wanted to get it somewhat close to where it will be after an alignment.

I don't even plan on driving it until I go in for an alignment, but I have a lot of other work to do before then.

I just hope somebody who has the arms and has been aligned could tell me how many shims they are running.

Also do you even have sd.com control arms? Nick?

NickZigaitis · 11-08-2009, 01:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Geat

How am I going to need shims when I have my truck aligned at ride height? How is it going to fvck up my tires when it is aligned correctly at my ride height? Laying frame is laying frame body dropped or not yes, but what about fender clearances? That would be the only time you would need shims if you can get your truck aligned right with no shims in it.

Go ahead and blame your thought process on your bad day at work. Maybe your anger has a detrimental affect on your english "you posting an ass-hat yourself?" What does this mean?

Dude are you serious? You never get your ride height dialed in each time you jump in it that you are within the tolerance required for proper alignment. If you are able to hit the psi you aligned it at each time you lifted, I'm going to call bs. There is always that need to tip-tap each front to adjust it to track straight.

Seriously, if you couldn't figure that out vvvvvv, we got more problems then your fvcking advice.

"Hope you're posting an ass-hat for yourself"

In case you're slower than the rest.....This means if you're going to call someone an ass-hat.......don't be one yourself.

Jesus the fvcking young bucks these days.................fvcking amaze me.

Good luck..........Done with this shit.

Geat · 11-08-2009, 02:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

Dude are you serious? You never get your ride height dialed in each time you jump in it that you are within the tolerance required for proper alignment. If you are able to hit the psi you aligned it at each time you lifted, I'm going to call bs. There is always that need to tip-tap each front to adjust it to track straight.

Seriously, if you couldn't figure that out vvvvvv, we got more problems then your fvcking advice.

"Hope you're posting an ass-hat for yourself"

In case you're slower than the rest.....This means if you're going to call someone an ass-hat.......don't be one yourself.

Jesus the fvcking young bucks these days.................fvcking amaze me.

Good luck..........Done with this shit.

Its called repetition. My front end is always +/- 3 PSI where I got it aligned at. Yes the height will change with temperature, but its called a bagged truck it will never be right. Just one of the trade offs of owning one.

Correct English is a plus, sorry if I understand your jibber jabber.

Sorry that I know what I'm talking about, dont blame it on my age.

Anyway back on topic, I tried to help you man. Its always an idiot that ruins it for the rest.

NickZigaitis · 11-08-2009, 02:13 PM

You're an expert.............Forgot about that, lol

lol, "Sorry that I know what I'm talking about"

***98layinframe*** · 11-08-2009, 02:37 PM

I almost feel dumber for reading this argument... its physically impossible to have the truck within camber spec throughout the entire travel range with stock s10 front components.

Every time you hit the switch theres an extremely good chance your not truely within "spec" for your alignment. Yes as long as the truck was realigned at a certain height it will be close enough to spec that everything will work fine and track correctly. It may look correct with your eye, but i can bet ya if the truck was connected to the alignment table.. it would be way out.

lownick · 11-08-2009, 02:37 PM

every ****in thread anymore, just a bunch of bitching.

pearldrop · 11-08-2009, 03:21 PM

Wow. I think this is why I've been on this site every day for 4 years, yet only have a few posts.

I appreciate everybody's help. But since I know running know shims isn't an option for me I will have to go with Nick's suggestion and try about 1/2 inch of shims.
I probably could have figured out what to use myself. It is a compromise between fender clearance and running to much negative camber.

I just wish I could figure out how many shims should be on the forward post versus the rear post to get the caster somewhat right.

NickZigaitis · 11-08-2009, 03:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop

Wow. I think this is why I've been on this site every day for 4 years, yet only have a few posts.

I appreciate everybody's help. But since I know running know shims isn't an option for me I will have to go with Nick's suggestion and try about 1/2 inch of shims.
I probably could have figured out what to use myself. It is a compromise between fender clearance and running to much negative camber.

I just wish I could figure out how many shims should be on the forward post versus the rear post to get the caster somewhat right.

The last I remember from research, a 1/8" thick shim equaled 1* of chamber change. I have 4 shims in per side and have about 4-5* of chamber.

pearldrop · 11-08-2009, 04:53 PM

Thanks Nick.
I just threw in the SD upper to see if it makes any difference in lift and I ended up with one inch less lift than my pie cut stocks.
But that is because they hit the brake line bracket and the stocks didn't.

So I hope I can gain more than an inch extra lift when I relocate it. That was the reason for trying the SD's anyway, to try and get some more lift.

I had 27 inches to the fender lip with the front locked up on 255/35/20s. So I don't have much room to turn.

On another note, I finally got to work on my bed yesterday so I want to show it off to somebody..

NickZigaitis · 11-08-2009, 05:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop

Thanks Nick.
I just threw in the SD upper to see if it makes any difference in lift and I ended up with one inch less lift than my pie cut stocks.
But that is because they hit the brake line bracket and the stocks didn't.

So I hope I can gain more than an inch extra lift when I relocate it. That was the reason for trying the SD's anyway, to try and get some more lift.

I had 27 inches to the fender lip with the front locked up on 255/35/20s. So I don't have much room to turn.

On another note, I finally got to work on my bed yesterday so I want to show it off to somebody..

Damn man, the bed looks good. Got any more build pics on it? I'm about to start the body drop of the bed now.

wirenut · 11-08-2009, 05:53 PM

dang chris that bed work is beautiful i shoulda asked you for help on the blazer mine looks like a turd compared to that.

S10dude · 11-08-2009, 06:16 PM

that bed is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

pearldrop · 11-08-2009, 06:57 PM

Thanks guys. I have a bunch of pics but I haven't posted them anywhere yet.

I originally bodydropped the bed just like everybody else by cutting down the sides, but I was never happy with the way it looked, so I just kept cutting.

In the end I built a framework out of 3/4 x 3/4 square tubing and plated over that.
The only thing original now are the bedsides.

Slammed91dime · 11-08-2009, 06:59 PM

Geat, clean out your pm box

***98layinframe*** · 11-09-2009, 02:44 AM

wow yeah that bed is beautiful!

why dont you just raise your truck up about mid travel range... id guess about 4" from the ground ride height, and set your camber at that height. Just go until the wheel is at 90*. that will give you an idea where to go from there with the shims.

NickZigaitis · 11-09-2009, 10:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 98layinframe

wow yeah that bed is beautiful!

why dont you just raise your truck up about mid travel range... id guess about 4" from the ground ride height, and set your camber at that height. Just go until the wheel is at 90*. that will give you an idea where to go from there with the shims.

Bingo...........Thats exactly what I did.

If you take accurate dimensions on the camber and alignment, you won't need to get an alignment from a shop. I've got enough painted stuff under the hood that I'm not having a tool dropping moron touch my shit. But that just me. Manual alignments went on for yearrrrrrs before electronic stuff came out

JohnnyDigits · 11-09-2009, 11:33 AM

I have two .16 and two .32 shims in both front posts and one .16 and two .32 shims in the rear posts. I'm runnin 18's, SD arms, drop spindles and layin frame if that makes any difference. I set my truck to desired ride height and put a bunch in and kept removing them until I was good. I haven't taken it to a shop with fancy alignment tools, I measured it the olskool way with a string and chalk marks. I haven't had any tire wear problems in the past 1000 or so miles.

11-06-2009, 05:05 PM	#1
pearldrop Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Mount Vernon, WA User is: OffLine	SD UCA shims Does anybody have a good guess on how many shims I should use on the upper control arms? (Suicide Doors arms) Of course, I should get an alignment to get it completely correct, but while I am still mocking everything up, I want to get the camber somewhat close to what it should be to make sure everything fits right. I know I will be tearing it apart again for paint before I get a final alignment.
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11-06-2009, 05:41 PM	#2
colbye32 Laying hard on zq8s! Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,699 Location: Conyers Ga User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims when you remove the factory arms or whatever your running now, put the same amount back in just like they came out.. it will be close, but you don't need to drive it long like that, you can wear your tires very quickly
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11-06-2009, 05:46 PM	#3
Geat Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,528 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims I wouldnt run any shims at all to be honest. It will get a lot more of neg camber. If your not really going to be driving it, you can eyeball the toe on it. Or use a long string tie it to the back of your wheel, wrap it around and pull it out really far. (farther the better) When you do this make sure the string is just barley touching the front of the tire (if you were sitting in the truck point of view). Do this to both wheels and measure the distance between the strings.
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11-06-2009, 05:57 PM	#4
pearldrop Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Mount Vernon, WA User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by Geat I wouldnt run any shims at all to be honest. It will get a lot more of neg camber. If your not really going to be driving it, you can eyeball the toe on it. Or use a long string tie it to the back of your wheel, wrap it around and pull it out really far. (farther the better) When you do this make sure the string is just barley touching the front of the tire (if you were sitting in the truck point of view). Do this to both wheels and measure the distance between the strings. Thanks for your input. No shims would give me less negative camber. I took the shims out three years ago and lost the piece of paper that I wrote it on. So I just want to get it back in the ballpark. Right now I'm only running a couple shims and it is definitely not enough negative camber. I go positive right about where the tire is even with the fender. So I have less than 1/16 inch clearance. This is on modified stock control arms. I'm just about to put the SD arms in and wanted to get it somewhat close to where it will be after an alignment. I don't even plan on driving it until I go in for an alignment, but I have a lot of other work to do before then. I just hope somebody who has the arms and has been aligned could tell me how many shims they are running. Last edited by pearldrop : 11-06-2009 at 06:03 PM.
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11-06-2009, 06:16 PM	#5
Geat Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,528 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop Thanks for your input. No shims would give me less negative camber. I took the shims out three years ago and lost the piece of paper that I wrote it on. So I just want to get it back in the ballpark. Right now I'm only running a couple shims and it is definitely not enough negative camber. I go positive right about where the tire is even with the fender. So I have less than 1/16 inch clearance. This is on modified stock control arms. I'm just about to put the SD arms in and wanted to get it somewhat close to where it will be after an alignment. I don't even plan on driving it until I go in for an alignment, but I have a lot of other work to do before then. I just hope somebody who has the arms and has been aligned could tell me how many shims they are running. Yea, thats what I meant. Less camber with no shims. I have no shims in mine, drop spindles. Front is not layd out yet though.
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11-06-2009, 06:22 PM	#6
Geat Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,528 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Went out in the garage and took this real quick. Locked up, UCA's hitting frame. Dustpan for camber reference. Hope this helps ya. Last edited by Geat : 11-06-2009 at 06:27 PM.
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11-06-2009, 06:37 PM	#7
pearldrop Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Mount Vernon, WA User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims If I was to take out the shims completely my tires would hit the fenders. When you bodydrop it, the fenders sit right at where the tire/wheel is most vertical. I don't know how your caster is okay with no shims at all. The front bolt usually has more than the rear. BTW: I love those wheels.
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11-06-2009, 06:54 PM	#8
Geat Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,528 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop If I was to take out the shims completely my tires would hit the fenders. When you bodydrop it, the fenders sit right at where the tire/wheel is most vertical. I don't know how your caster is okay with no shims at all. The front bolt usually has more than the rear. BTW: I love those wheels. Yea, the guy said it was alright where it was at. Im pretty damn close to the fenders right now because of spacers. I snag them all the time.
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11-06-2009, 08:56 PM	#9
blazerida88 PHAT JOE Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,733 Location: birmingham alabama User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims if it mock up just throw enough in to clear the fenders, i just put my sd's on and im running 22's and i have to have a decent amount to clear the fenders and not hit them. i have drop spindles too. mine have a good bit of camber and still just barely clear the fenders
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11-06-2009, 08:56 PM	#10
blazerida88 PHAT JOE Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,733 Location: birmingham alabama User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims i am in mock up also though, i havent had it aligned
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11-06-2009, 09:01 PM	#11
pearldrop Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Mount Vernon, WA User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims I will probably just put enough in to clear the fenders. I just hope that I have enough clearance in my firewall tubs for the extra camber. I almost wish I had made my tubs bigger so I could run stock spindles.
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11-06-2009, 09:06 PM	#12
blazerida88 PHAT JOE Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,733 Location: birmingham alabama User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop I will probably just put enough in to clear the fenders. I just hope that I have enough clearance in my firewall tubs for the extra camber. I almost wish I had made my tubs bigger so I could run stock spindles. yea i made my tubs pretty big, passenger side has a ton of room, and the driver side i tubbed it to be a couple inched from the brake pedal inside
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11-07-2009, 03:07 PM	#13
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by Geat Yea, thats what I meant. Less camber with no shims. I have no shims in mine, drop spindles. Front is not layd out yet though. Do you have any idea what the hell you're even talking about? And.....you're 25 miles high in the air compared to a body drop. Totally different picture for starters.
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11-07-2009, 07:58 PM	#14
Geat Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,528 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis Do you have any idea what the hell you're even talking about? And.....you're 25 miles high in the air compared to a body drop. Totally different picture for starters. ' Where in his original post did he specify on a body dropped truck? Please show me. You fail yet again on trying to call me out. Good try though, better luck next time. Last edited by Geat : 11-07-2009 at 07:59 PM.
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11-07-2009, 09:18 PM	#15
mr. steve Registered User Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 429 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims a truck thay lays frame, is the same as a bodydropped truck as far as supsension is concerned
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11-08-2009, 12:26 PM	#16
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by mr. steve a truck thay lays frame, is the same as a bodydropped truck as far as supsension is concerned No shit............Exactly.
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11-08-2009, 12:28 PM	#17
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by Geat ' Where in his original post did he specify on a body dropped truck? Please show me. You fail yet again on trying to call me out. Good try though, better luck next time. Hope you posting an ass-hat for yourself. I follow with my original statement............ass-hat............do you know what the hell you're even talking about. Laying frame is laying frame, BD or not. You'll need shims sweetheart unless you want fvcked up tires.
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11-08-2009, 12:34 PM	#18
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims To the original Poster........... I've got 2" drop spindles and 18's up front. I have probably 1/2" worth of shims on the fronts. When laid out it gives me about 4-5* of camber. When fully lifted the camber is zero'd out. You do have to watch your toe-in/toe-out during the suspension stroke. More toe-in when lifted, toe-out when laid. For an alignment you can go the old school way and measure front/back wheel spacing of the front tires. 1) Straighten the steering wheels to center. 2) Pick the front tire that appears closest to "straight" in relation to the steering wheel. 3) Measure distance between tires from the front and rear aspect of the tire. 4) Adjust tie-rods till both front and back measurements are equal.
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11-08-2009, 01:21 PM	#19
Geat Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,528 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis Hope you posting an ass-hat for yourself. I follow with my original statement............ass-hat............do you know what the hell you're even talking about. Laying frame is laying frame, BD or not. You'll need shims sweetheart unless you want fvcked up tires. How am I going to need shims when I have my truck aligned at ride height? How is it going to fvck up my tires when it is aligned correctly at my ride height? Laying frame is laying frame body dropped or not yes, but what about fender clearances? That would be the only time you would need shims if you can get your truck aligned right with no shims in it. Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis My apologies. Had a rough ass day yesterday. Dodge a huge layoff sucessfully and I was hair triggered. Sorry. Have a good one. Go ahead and blame your thought process on your bad day at work. Maybe your anger has a detrimental affect on your english "you posting an ass-hat yourself?" What does this mean? Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop This is on modified stock control arms. I'm just about to put the SD arms in and wanted to get it somewhat close to where it will be after an alignment. I don't even plan on driving it until I go in for an alignment, but I have a lot of other work to do before then. I just hope somebody who has the arms and has been aligned could tell me how many shims they are running. Also do you even have sd.com control arms? Nick? Last edited by Geat : 11-08-2009 at 01:26 PM.
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11-08-2009, 01:32 PM	#20
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by Geat How am I going to need shims when I have my truck aligned at ride height? How is it going to fvck up my tires when it is aligned correctly at my ride height? Laying frame is laying frame body dropped or not yes, but what about fender clearances? That would be the only time you would need shims if you can get your truck aligned right with no shims in it. Go ahead and blame your thought process on your bad day at work. Maybe your anger has a detrimental affect on your english "you posting an ass-hat yourself?" What does this mean? Dude are you serious? You never get your ride height dialed in each time you jump in it that you are within the tolerance required for proper alignment. If you are able to hit the psi you aligned it at each time you lifted, I'm going to call bs. There is always that need to tip-tap each front to adjust it to track straight. Seriously, if you couldn't figure that out vvvvvv, we got more problems then your fvcking advice. "Hope you're posting an ass-hat for yourself" In case you're slower than the rest.....This means if you're going to call someone an ass-hat.......don't be one yourself. Jesus the fvcking young bucks these days.................fvcking amaze me. Good luck..........Done with this shit.
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11-08-2009, 02:01 PM	#21
Geat Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,528 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis Dude are you serious? You never get your ride height dialed in each time you jump in it that you are within the tolerance required for proper alignment. If you are able to hit the psi you aligned it at each time you lifted, I'm going to call bs. There is always that need to tip-tap each front to adjust it to track straight. Seriously, if you couldn't figure that out vvvvvv, we got more problems then your fvcking advice. "Hope you're posting an ass-hat for yourself" In case you're slower than the rest.....This means if you're going to call someone an ass-hat.......don't be one yourself. Jesus the fvcking young bucks these days.................fvcking amaze me. Good luck..........Done with this shit. Its called repetition. My front end is always +/- 3 PSI where I got it aligned at. Yes the height will change with temperature, but its called a bagged truck it will never be right. Just one of the trade offs of owning one. Correct English is a plus, sorry if I understand your jibber jabber. Sorry that I know what I'm talking about, dont blame it on my age. Anyway back on topic, I tried to help you man. Its always an idiot that ruins it for the rest. Last edited by Geat : 11-08-2009 at 02:02 PM.
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11-08-2009, 02:13 PM	#22
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims You're an expert.............Forgot about that, lol lol, "Sorry that I know what I'm talking about"
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11-08-2009, 02:37 PM	#24
lownick Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 453 Location: SoCal User is: Online	Re: SD UCA shims every ****in thread anymore, just a bunch of bitching.
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11-08-2009, 03:21 PM	#25
pearldrop Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Mount Vernon, WA User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Wow. I think this is why I've been on this site every day for 4 years, yet only have a few posts. I appreciate everybody's help. But since I know running know shims isn't an option for me I will have to go with Nick's suggestion and try about 1/2 inch of shims. I probably could have figured out what to use myself. It is a compromise between fender clearance and running to much negative camber. I just wish I could figure out how many shims should be on the forward post versus the rear post to get the caster somewhat right.
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11-08-2009, 03:53 PM	#26
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop Wow. I think this is why I've been on this site every day for 4 years, yet only have a few posts. I appreciate everybody's help. But since I know running know shims isn't an option for me I will have to go with Nick's suggestion and try about 1/2 inch of shims. I probably could have figured out what to use myself. It is a compromise between fender clearance and running to much negative camber. I just wish I could figure out how many shims should be on the forward post versus the rear post to get the caster somewhat right. The last I remember from research, a 1/8" thick shim equaled 1* of chamber change. I have 4 shims in per side and have about 4-5* of chamber.
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11-08-2009, 05:07 PM	#28
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by pearldrop Thanks Nick. I just threw in the SD upper to see if it makes any difference in lift and I ended up with one inch less lift than my pie cut stocks. But that is because they hit the brake line bracket and the stocks didn't. So I hope I can gain more than an inch extra lift when I relocate it. That was the reason for trying the SD's anyway, to try and get some more lift. I had 27 inches to the fender lip with the front locked up on 255/35/20s. So I don't have much room to turn. On another note, I finally got to work on my bed yesterday so I want to show it off to somebody.. Damn man, the bed looks good. Got any more build pics on it? I'm about to start the body drop of the bed now.
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11-08-2009, 05:53 PM	#29
wirenut MiniTruckin Nerd Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 575 Location: Sumner User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims dang chris that bed work is beautiful i shoulda asked you for help on the blazer mine looks like a turd compared to that.
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11-08-2009, 06:16 PM	#30
S10dude workin it ! Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 11,029 Location: Sacramento,Ca. User is: Online	Re: SD UCA shims that bed is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet
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11-08-2009, 06:57 PM	#31
pearldrop Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Mount Vernon, WA User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Thanks guys. I have a bunch of pics but I haven't posted them anywhere yet. I originally bodydropped the bed just like everybody else by cutting down the sides, but I was never happy with the way it looked, so I just kept cutting. In the end I built a framework out of 3/4 x 3/4 square tubing and plated over that. The only thing original now are the bedsides. Last edited by pearldrop : 11-08-2009 at 06:59 PM.
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11-08-2009, 06:59 PM	#32
Slammed91dime Registered User Age: 18 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 7 Location: Rockwood, TN User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Geat, clean out your pm box
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11-09-2009, 10:57 AM	#34
NickZigaitis I Like Fire....HaHaHa Age: 79 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 4,868 Location: God Damn Garage, STL User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims Quote: Originally Posted by 98layinframe wow yeah that bed is beautiful! why dont you just raise your truck up about mid travel range... id guess about 4" from the ground ride height, and set your camber at that height. Just go until the wheel is at 90*. that will give you an idea where to go from there with the shims. Bingo...........Thats exactly what I did. If you take accurate dimensions on the camber and alignment, you won't need to get an alignment from a shop. I've got enough painted stuff under the hood that I'm not having a tool dropping moron touch my shit. But that just me. Manual alignments went on for yearrrrrrs before electronic stuff came out
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11-09-2009, 11:33 AM	#35
JohnnyDigits Low Class Age: 29 Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 218 Location: NC User is: OffLine	Re: SD UCA shims I have two .16 and two .32 shims in both front posts and one .16 and two .32 shims in the rear posts. I'm runnin 18's, SD arms, drop spindles and layin frame if that makes any difference. I set my truck to desired ride height and put a bunch in and kept removing them until I was good. I haven't taken it to a shop with fancy alignment tools, I measured it the olskool way with a string and chalk marks. I haven't had any tire wear problems in the past 1000 or so miles.
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