[Project] SD 5link Install

[AVTekk]

Ok so Im finally doing a 5link install, maybe Ill document some of it so you guys have something to refer back to heh. This is Chris's truck, it was here earlier for front bags.




And this is how far I got in a few hours. Got the two rear crossmembers in, stock spare tire, shock, and gas tank crossmembers taken out, and notch started.

[Rompn]

Looks good so far. Be sure to list any issues you may run into installing the kit.

[cbauer210]

Wooohhhhh!!!! Cant wait to see it done!

[dagreenmonster]

sweet

[Rompn]

Interesting to see that you are installing the notch with the axle still attached to the springs. I would think you would want to fully install the 5 link before welding up the notch. That way you could check where the axle tags the frame and mark that as the center of the notch.

[ENVY22]

yeah post lots of pictures...Mine is going in sometime and it would be cool to refer to some good pictures

[AVTekk]

I already know where the axle centerline is, I do this every day.....

[grndscrpr03]

awesome, i'll be installing a SD 5 link in the next couple months on my buddy's truck. This will be a great heads up for anything that we might encounter during the install.

[FSUnole]

Yeah , we all know you got a busy schedule but this would be a sweet informational thread.

[MeltingPlastic]

haha chris's girl can no longer bitch that he cant drop the rear lol...

[Rompn]

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

I already know where the axle centerline is, I do this every day.....

No doubt man. Just be sure to post up info like that so everyone has a refrence.

[AVTekk]

Ya Ill lay it out, maybe take some more pics tonight..it just gets bothersome since Ive done it so many times, Id rather just work then take all these pictures haha

[Bad94]

Hey dave when you do a notch how far up and back from the notch do you box the frame?

[AVTekk]

Do you mean cutting the frame width to 2.5"? Well its only wider above the axle, so if you go far enough towards the front, its 2.5", and if you go back, its 2.5", so its already taken care of. The strip cut out is usually about 12" long I guess.

Refer to this how-to, starting at post #13..

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f198/install-step-notch-step-by-step-41071/

[Blazinlow15]

Cant wait to see this thing layd out

[thenephilm]

im interested to see how easy it is to install

[s10blaza]

Cool man

[dellrio]

cant wait to see it - Av is one of the best contributors to this forum - cant wait to see pics as this is the kit i plan to install sometime next year and it will be my first bag install ever.

[cab]

cool

[_Sly_]

i agree Av is the shit..

[UpOn1]

I've got SD 5-link as well. It's a very straight forward install. I can't wait until its all done so I can enjoy my new suspension. Jason did an awesome job making this and I appreciate him customing mine for my supra taillights. He has helped me out a lot with my first bag install, along with many of you guys here. thanks to all

[BAGALIZES-10]

yeash i am going to do the 5 link soon here, after i replace my clutch and shit

[jrocker]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rompn

Interesting to see that you are installing the notch with the axle still attached to the springs. I would think you would want to fully install the 5 link before welding up the notch. That way you could check where the axle tags the frame and mark that as the center of the notch.

I don't think avtekk needs any install advice

[Rompn]

Quote: Originally Posted by jrocker

I don't think avtekk needs any install advice

Not giving him any advice. I know he could probably install that notch about a hundred different ways.

[AVTekk]

OK so some real 5-link install info.

The first thing I did was put in the rear crossmember, it will keep the frame from spreading when I cut out the old spare tire crossmember. Its labled as to which side faces the top and rear, and six of the ten bolts line up with the stock bumper bolts; youll have to drill out the other four.




Cut out all of the spare tire crossmember and shock towers. The upper bag moount crossmember is referenced by the bed, you will want to put it right next to where the bed rail sits on the frame. Dont put it too close or itll push the bed forward when you try to put it on. You can also check spacing by bolting up the rear lift arm and make sure the bag mounts are alighned. You will have to drill all of these holes.




Cut out the rivits for the stock crossmember and discard it. The new unit bolts into the same holes, with the provided 'spacer' going under the frame rail before you put the nuts on the bolts. It will help distribute the weight evenly over the rail. You will need to provide an exhaust hanger, and Ive also relocated the charcoal canister to this location. The crossmember uses the stock clip nuts and bolts for the rear gas tank strap.




Dont forget to re-drill the four bolts for the front gas tank strap 3/4"-1" higher, this will move the gas tank above the frame.




Remove the rivits holding the stock leaf hangers and relocate them further back using the supplied template. I believe the measurement is 6-3/4" from the center of the stock rear upper rivit hole to the center of the upper front bolt hole in the new location. The hanger bolts back on with the provide hardware. Dont forget to notch the back of the hanger as shown, otherwise the bars will hit it and stop you from laying.




The axle should have been pulled out by this time, and the factory spring perches removed and ground flat in preparation for welding. Then bolt the diff bracket to the rear end with the wishbone attached.




Now youll have to set the axle at 'ride height' to set the pinion angle so you dont chew up your u-joints. A quick way to do it is set the axle on jackstands where you want it, then use a floor jack under the pinion to rasie and lower the pinion angle at will. The wishbone should be connected, and the axle needs to be the same distance under the frame on both sides.




Most S10s have the tranny pointing down 4-5° (this truck being no exception), and since this is a standard cab with a one piece driveshaft, well have to point the pinion up +/-2° of the amount the tranny is pointing down. Its not too visable here but I set it at 3°.




You can now move on to setting the lower bars in place. Adjust them to 15.5" center to center, and what I do is bolt two axle tabs to the end and tighten them down snug. This will hold them in position for welding, and also keep the spacing you need for the urethane end.




Now bolt the front of the bar into the relocated spring perch, and simply hold the bar with the attached tabs up to the axle. Once theyre sitting flat, throw a couple tacks on them, check them for straightness, then hit it up with a couple stitch welds. I pull the axle back out to finish the welding. DO NOT assemble the tabs onto the lower bar with the bolt head facing the drum. It must face inside to the pumpkin or youll never be able to get the bolt out again.

[cab]

cool

[layinbody31]

Looks great AV, keep up the good work.

What are those spacer things that are on the studs? Are those there b/c he has wires?

[FSUnole]

[saber07]

Thank you Av, this is really nice and helpful :thumbup:

[AVTekk]

Quote: Originally Posted by layinbody31

Looks great AV, keep up the good work.

What are those spacer things that are on the studs? Are those there b/c he has wires?

Ya those are the adaptors..

[Dragginbody]

looking really good man. how much are you charging to install this? just curious.

[Bad94]

Dave im talkign about boxing the frame , like

How come you dont box any of the frame in front and behind the notch?

[AVTekk]

Uh...why would you? What you have pictured there is a c-notch, what I did was a step notch, theres no reason to box anything expect if you want the look of a boxed frame.

[Bad94]

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

Uh...why would you? What you have pictured there is a c-notch, what I did was a step notch, theres no reason to box anything expect if you want the look of a boxed frame.

I know that i posted a notch, I know the difference from a c notch and a step notch. That was the only pic that i have of a boxed frame that has been cut.


The frame would be stronger if you would box alittle in front and behind the notch.

[Rompn]

Quote: Originally Posted by Bad94

I know that i posted a notch, I know the difference from a c notch and a step notch. That was the only pic that i have of a boxed frame that has been cut.


The frame would be stronger if you would box alittle in front and behind the notch.

The frame would be stronger but there is no need to make it stronger. It is pretty beefy after you add in SD's notch. You would just be adding un-needed weight.

[veralow]

[quote=AVTekk]OK so some real 5-link install info.


The upper bag moount crossmember is referenced by the bed, you will want to put it right next to where the bed rail sits on the frame. Dont put it too close or itll push the bed forward when you try to put it on. You can also check spacing by bolting up the rear lift arm and make sure the bag mounts are alighned.

good tip!!! when I first saw that you had already installed the bag mount I thought "what the hell is he thinking, how the hell does he know the bags will line up with the top mount 'right there'"

me personally I think you jumped the gun on that one, but you do have a good reference point with the bed mount. I did mine with the axle at ride height and the lower shock mounts tacked on. But it's no biggie, good progress by the way!!

[AVTekk]

Theyre non-adjustable leverage bars that the bags bolt to..theres only one place to mount the upper bag mount bar, so there isnt really any 'jumping the gun'..

[LilRed95]

looks good Dave :thumbup:

[jrocker]

Hey Avtekk if you get a chance can you measure from the back of the upper bag mount to the back of the frame for me. I am also intalling a 5 link right now an mine measures 16". Thanks.

[AVTekk]

Just bolt the leverage bar to the rear crossmember and make sure its right under the top bag mount..

[suicidedoors.com]

Quote: Originally Posted by jrocker

Hey Avtekk if you get a chance can you measure from the back of the upper bag mount to the back of the frame for me. I am also intalling a 5 link right now an mine measures 16". Thanks.

13-1/8" from the back of the frame to the back of the frame plate on the upper bag x-member.


rock on dave!

[jrocker]

[quote=suicidedoors.com]13-1/8" from the back of the frame to the back of the frame plate on the upper bag x-member.


Thanks Jay.

[Something Different]

Lookin good Dave, now correct me if I'm wrong but Jason's 5-link is all bolt in right? Are you going to bolt everything in or are you going to weld it all.

[Nefarious]

looking good

[jchargu3]

Quote: Originally Posted by Something Different

Lookin good Dave, now correct me if I'm wrong but Jason's 5-link is all bolt in right? Are you going to bolt everything in or are you going to weld it all.

its about 80% bolt in....


The axle tabs HAVE to be welded onto the axle, and i believe the shock tabs need welded on also..

I think after that its all bolt in... i THINK.

[Scrapin S15]

Quote: Originally Posted by jchargu3

its about 80% bolt in....


The axle tabs HAVE to be welded onto the axle, and i believe the shock tabs need welded on also..

I think after that its all bolt in... i THINK.

other then the notch, yep.

[PhatBoy]

i need a thread like this on the super pivot 3 link.....anyone.....

good werk dave

[AVTekk]

Its the same for the 3 link..the crossmembers are bolt on but the lower bar tabs and lever bar tabs have to be welded on..

[cbauer210]

More pics!!!! I cant wait to see the fiished product.......im gonna drag this thing alll the way to north jerz

[jchargu3]

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

Its the same for the 3 link..the crossmembers are bolt on but the lower bar tabs and lever bar tabs have to be welded on..

YOU sir absolutly ROCK.. You, Jason and SlammedDime