PROJECT: 1995 s10

djremix · 11-21-2008, 11:33 PM

OK so I have way too many pictures to list so we'll start with my cardomain page...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3112414

And continue where cardomain leave off...

Inner fenders removed, change all hard brake lines
(partially) installed shock towers

During destruction

lower arm off...most of it is out!

Testing bag fitment, cut spring pocket

Testing fitment, travel, make sure bag doesn't rub spring pocket...

Still plenty of work to do, obviously, so I'll keep updating as I go along!

tolowinorlando · 11-21-2008, 11:35 PM

looks good so far keep it up man

herseydestin · 11-21-2008, 11:44 PM

i think this is the third thread on this in the last couple of days.

***98LowS10*** · 11-22-2008, 11:27 AM

Looking good so far, but I would do something with the battery tray. If you try to use it like that, the weight of the battery is just going to fold it.

djremix · 11-22-2008, 04:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 98lows10

Looking good so far, but I would do something with the battery tray. If you try to use it like that, the weight of the battery is just going to fold it.

Yeah it's there temporarily...will relocate it...somewhere

djremix · 11-23-2008, 07:30 PM

UPDATE...UPDATE...UPDATE

I did some work today to it but it's so darn cold working outside that I had to quit a bit early but it's progress...

I still need to replace my brake lines on this side and reattach the sway bar...

QUESTION??? Are you guys running with or without sway bars??? I'm not just going front/back I'll also do side/side...

Gearstix · 11-23-2008, 07:36 PM

Are there holes rusted into your frame upfront?

djremix · 11-23-2008, 07:41 PM

Temporarily...lol

llorracs93s10 · 11-23-2008, 07:50 PM

with the shocks relocated there, theere will be on issues of clearnace for the wheels like 20s would there?

djremix · 11-23-2008, 09:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by llorracs93s10

with the shocks relocated there, theere will be on issues of clearnace for the wheels like 20s would there?

Probably with large wheels there might be issues but I'll be running my stock wheels...I like them!

djremix · 11-23-2008, 09:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gearstix

Are there holes rusted into your frame upfront?

I'll weld a plate on there when I get a chance but I've been working on this the last 2 days in 25-30 degree weather... so I'll leave the welding for next spring!

djremix · 04-05-2009, 05:40 PM

OK so now that nice weather is back, I started back on this project...

So far what I did...

Install dehumped lowers that I spent A LOT of time smoothing and painting (courtesy of Kris Dye Fabrication)

Lowered it and tested to see what I would need to cut on the inside so removed the front end and one fender so far...

...and the I cut the inside of the fender...quite a bit. Not sure if it will be enough yet cause I am hitting my heater box now so I have to say bye-bye to my AC and heat...sucks!

I am basically redoing my brakes again...I got some drilled and slotted rotors that I painted to match my spindles and control arms and also painted my sway bar...I know I'm OCD!

These are my latest updates...stay tuned!

There are more pictures here... http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa278/djalain1

blazerida88 · 04-06-2009, 12:44 AM

looks like a good start, that whole trailer fender is not gonna fit in ur fender without hitting the firewall when u go to install it.

and u dont have to lose ur a/c and heat, just mod ur blower box.

do a search

dtilley86 · 04-06-2009, 12:51 AM

whats with the lower control arms?

lee-mill · 04-06-2009, 12:52 AM

mhm finally nice pics of shock install thanks man

djremix · 04-06-2009, 10:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by dtilley86

whats with the lower control arms?

What do you mean about the control arms??? Why did you post them in the hacked thread? Ask Kris Dye about the arms, he made them...they work, they're just not modded to look alike. Sorry if I'm a little OCD. I like my shit to look good as well as function right!

djremix · 04-06-2009, 10:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lee-mill

mhm finally nice pics of shock install thanks man

Thanks, not fully up and running but as soon as I'm done with fenders and heater box, it'll be on the ground, hoping in the next couple weeks. Unfortunately I work outside and I don't have a lot of time to work on it. I will update as soon as I get updates!

dtilley86 · 04-06-2009, 05:03 PM

they dont seem right to me

djremix · 04-06-2009, 06:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dtilley86

they dont seem right to me

Read the hacked thread that you posted my arms in...I said what I wanted about the control arms...done! They work and that's it!

djremix · 04-09-2009, 06:54 PM

Today was a nice day to work outside so I took the truck apart, hood and fenders are now off...

Took heater box off...was thinking of taking it out and keeping it out but my heat and AC work perfectly so...

...I'll mod the heater box instead...

djremix · 04-09-2009, 07:02 PM

So after the heater box was off I lifted the tire up with a jack under control arm to see how high it would go and if it would lay skid but not quite, missing about one inch (that's with no weight on the tires, on the ground) something is preventing it from lifting higher, the truck is lifting up instead. I think my upper ball joint is binding...WHAT DO YOU THINK?

djremix · 04-09-2009, 07:20 PM

Oh and I'm running 225/60/16 on stock wheels if it makes a difference...

***Dragginbody*** · 04-10-2009, 12:58 AM

well the tire calculator says that tire is 26.6 tall.
thats about a 20 with a 245 35 20 tire.

usually anything over 25'' binds the upper balljoints.

***Dragginbody*** · 04-10-2009, 01:02 AM

first things to check is

tie rod hitting frame, notch for them

lower control arm hitting frame anywhere,you have to trim frame where the control arms slide into the frame.

take the bags and cups out, might have to trim cups down.

if all that dont get it laid out, you need to get pie cut upper arms or get tubulars

tohoopty · 04-10-2009, 01:03 AM

your ball joints are in wrong and turn your drivers side tire rod adjuster down a little bit

GET_LOW · 04-10-2009, 07:46 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by tohoopty

your ball joints are in wrong and turn your drivers side tire rod adjuster down a little bit

They look like there in right

unno:

Looks like those joints are pretty new. If you wanted you could get some Power Performance joints and see if those work. They have a lot more range then stock ones do.

djremix · 04-10-2009, 03:40 PM

Everything under there is new including Ball joints, tie rod ends, brake pads, rotors, calipers, lower arms, shock, drop spindle,... can't mess up an upper ball joint it can only go in one way! and I still need to tighten everything down tight after I check all fitments and clearances...

djremix · 04-10-2009, 03:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by GET_LOW

They look like there in right unno:

Looks like those joints are pretty new. If you wanted you could get some Power Performance joints and see if those work. They have a lot more range then stock ones do.

Can you send me some? After all these new parts I have very little cash. I'm not spending another $80 on new ball joints. Can anyone sponsor them for me??? LOL

djremix · 04-10-2009, 03:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Dragginbody

first things to check is

tie rod hitting frame, notch for them

lower control arm hitting frame anywhere,you have to trim frame where the control arms slide into the frame.

take the bags and cups out, might have to trim cups down.

if all that dont get it laid out, you need to get pie cut upper arms or get tubulars

I checked all those clearances already and nothing is rubbing or touching anywhere. Maybe if I put the truck right on the ground and lower it that way with all the weight on the tires, might go all the way down...worth a shot, if not then looks like I'll get tubular uppers! Thanks Kris!

djremix · 04-10-2009, 03:51 PM

So I had a few minutes this morning and I plated my heater box...should be good enough. Blower is about 1/4" from plate can't cut anymore. Sorry about the crappy camera phone pic. Will update again soon!

***Dragginbody*** · 04-10-2009, 05:40 PM

double check the most tricky part of laying out the front of a s10.

right where the control arms slide into the frame. you will have to trim down the lip that will hit the lower control arm.

you cant see it that good until you jack the control arm up very close to the frame.

djremix · 04-10-2009, 09:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Dragginbody

double check the most tricky part of laying out the front of a s10.

right where the control arms slide into the frame. you will have to trim down the lip that will hit the lower control arm.

you cant see it that good until you jack the control arm up very close to the frame.

I checked that too and it's not even close to hitting that...I'm 99% sure it's the ball joint at this point. I spent a good deal of time checking and it's the same on both sides... Tubular arms are on my wish list...

Guys what do you recommend for good and resonably priced tubular upper control arms?

GET_LOW · 04-10-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by djremix

I checked that too and it's not even close to hitting that...I'm 99% sure it's the ball joint at this point. I spent a good deal of time checking and it's the same on both sides... Tubular arms are on my wish list...

Guys what do you recommend for good and resonably priced tubular upper control arms?

SD upper arms. Raw with no BJ or cross shaft are 200 bucks. A pretty good deal. You can mod the uppers really easy. Atleast try, its not liek its gonna cost ya any money.

Tuckin15's · 04-10-2009, 10:12 PM

i really like how you did your arms!

GET_LOW · 04-10-2009, 10:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by STL_DRGN

i really like how you did your arms!

He just painted them dumb ass. Kris Dye cut them up.

cruisinlows10 · 04-10-2009, 10:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by djremix

Oh and I'm running 225/60/16 on stock wheels if it makes a difference...

I am running 225-55-16s and I had to beat back the top of the wheel arch in the cab for tire clearance. That may be holding you up on yours as well.

djremix · 04-10-2009, 11:02 PM

Here are a couple more pix of heater box... about 1.5" til tire hits heater box.

This is as high as it goes and starts binding...tires don't rub anywhere, arms are not hitting anywhere, tie rods are close to frame but don't hit (I can put my hand between tie rod and frame)... Just ordered SD uppers, see if that helps!

djremix · 04-10-2009, 11:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by STL_DRGN

i really like how you did your arms!

Thanks...yeah I just smoothed them out and painted them...

djremix · 04-10-2009, 11:13 PM

GET_LOW · 04-11-2009, 12:00 AM

I would just run it over the top of the blower motor. That should have a good amount of slack in it. I think it comes off the ignition and some wires that go across the back of the tranny.

If you go on the inside on the passenger side. Under the glove box there is a pannel down by your foot area. There is like 4 7mm bolts that hold it in. un screw em and the pannel shoud drop out. There are 2 big connectors that plug into a CPU. Un plug them and the you can feed the wire out of the cab. You could cut each wire and lengthen them if you wanted.

DimePrincess · 04-18-2009, 09:30 AM

Looks great. Working on mine now. Already took TONS of stuff out. Plenty of room. On stock tires for now. Nothin hits. At least you can work on yours in your yard. lol Neighbors dont like it here.

Gimp · 04-18-2009, 10:19 AM

first off nice build so far man, and 2nd i really like how instead of just putting down a little paint where you cut out your pockets you did the whole portion of the frame. spend a little extra time and things look that much better. Nice job!!
ok last where did you get your bolt on shock brace. I like them and I'd like to pick them up too

djremix · 04-18-2009, 11:33 AM

I got my shock relocators from suicidedoors.com

http://www.suicidedoors.com/shock-re...t-shock-mounts

and you'll need the shock studs too if you relocate your shocks on the side of your control arms

http://www.suicidedoors.com/shock-re...ck-stud-button

and the stock shocks won't work either, I used Nissan Hardbody shocks don't remember what year

djremix · 04-18-2009, 11:36 AM

I got some progress done yesterday too...I finally got all my wiring and plumbing done for my air management. I was able to fire everything up and hear the ever popular sounds....PSSSTTTT PSHHHHHHHH...

I have major air leaks at the tank where I have a couple plugs. Need to get that resolved and check all other fittings for leaks I can't hear...

WHAT DO YOU GUYS USE TO SEAL YOUR FITTINGS?
I HEARD TEFLON TAPE TO PASTE TO LOC-TITE TO PERMATEX THREAD SEALER...
WHICH WORKS BEST???

lee-mill · 04-18-2009, 12:07 PM

what kinda metal did u use for the box? and did u just rivet it into the plastic houseing

djremix · 04-18-2009, 12:31 PM

I just used 22GA sheetmetal, made some cardboard templates, cut the sheetmetal and riveted to the plastic stock housing. I still need to seal everything up with caulking and rust proofer inside and out. I'm just waiting for my upper arms to get here to lay my truck out, make sure it doesn't hit the heater box.

dimebaggedmofo · 04-18-2009, 02:38 PM

looks great man, reminds me of the days when i bagged mine!

lee-mill · 04-18-2009, 04:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by djremix

I just used 22GA sheetmetal, made some cardboard templates, cut the sheetmetal and riveted to the plastic stock housing. I still need to seal everything up with caulking and rust proofer inside and out. I'm just waiting for my upper arms to get here to lay my truck out, make sure it doesn't hit the heater box.

ok cool man thanks and one more question how did u cut the blower box with like a dremel?

djremix · 04-18-2009, 04:12 PM

I wasted no time...sawzall

djremix · 04-18-2009, 04:21 PM

Here's what I did today. I fixed a couple air leaks on my tank and one's still leaking a bit but I'm too worried cause that's where my fitting for gauge will go.

I took the truck off jack stands and filled the bags...

Aired out...

Don't mind the oily, dirty undercarriage, the kid that had it before me drove around with a leaking oil pan and was leaking from the front of the engine and the fan would blow oil all over the place...getting cleaned as we speak!

11-21-2008, 11:33 PM	#1
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	PROJECT: 1995 s10 OK so I have way too many pictures to list so we'll start with my cardomain page... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3112414 And continue where cardomain leave off... Inner fenders removed, change all hard brake lines (partially) installed shock towers During destruction lower arm off...most of it is out! Testing bag fitment, cut spring pocket Testing fitment, travel, make sure bag doesn't rub spring pocket... Still plenty of work to do, obviously, so I'll keep updating as I go along!
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-21-2008, 11:35 PM	#2
tolowinorlando white wall member Age: 23 Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,643 Location: toledo oh User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 looks good so far keep it up man
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11-21-2008, 11:44 PM	#3
herseydestin never finished. Age: 24 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 491 Location: N FL User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 i think this is the third thread on this in the last couple of days.
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11-22-2008, 11:27 AM	#4
*98LowS10* Tom@LRD Age: 25 Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,775 Location: Bellingham, Mass User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Looking good so far, but I would do something with the battery tray. If you try to use it like that, the weight of the battery is just going to fold it.
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11-22-2008, 04:09 PM	#5
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by 98lows10 Looking good so far, but I would do something with the battery tray. If you try to use it like that, the weight of the battery is just going to fold it. Yeah it's there temporarily...will relocate it...somewhere
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11-23-2008, 07:30 PM	#6
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 UPDATE...UPDATE...UPDATE I did some work today to it but it's so darn cold working outside that I had to quit a bit early but it's progress... I still need to replace my brake lines on this side and reattach the sway bar... *QUESTION??? Are you guys running with or without sway bars??? I'm not just going front/back I'll also do side/side...*
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-23-2008, 07:36 PM	#7
Gearstix Hmm.. well now.. Age: 17 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 2,213 Location: Alberta, Canada User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Are there holes rusted into your frame upfront?
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11-23-2008, 07:41 PM	#8
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Temporarily...lol
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11-23-2008, 07:50 PM	#9
llorracs93s10 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 6,205 Location: Middletown, DE User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 with the shocks relocated there, theere will be on issues of clearnace for the wheels like 20s would there?
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11-23-2008, 09:30 PM	#10
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by llorracs93s10 with the shocks relocated there, theere will be on issues of clearnace for the wheels like 20s would there? Probably with large wheels there might be issues but I'll be running my stock wheels...I like them!
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11-23-2008, 09:31 PM	#11
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by Gearstix Are there holes rusted into your frame upfront? I'll weld a plate on there when I get a chance but I've been working on this the last 2 days in 25-30 degree weather... so I'll leave the welding for next spring!
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04-05-2009, 05:40 PM	#12
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 OK so now that nice weather is back, I started back on this project... So far what I did... Install dehumped lowers that I spent A LOT of time smoothing and painting (courtesy of Kris Dye Fabrication) Lowered it and tested to see what I would need to cut on the inside so removed the front end and one fender so far... ...and the I cut the inside of the fender...quite a bit. Not sure if it will be enough yet cause I am hitting my heater box now so I have to say bye-bye to my AC and heat...sucks! I am basically redoing my brakes again...I got some drilled and slotted rotors that I painted to match my spindles and control arms and also painted my sway bar...I know I'm OCD! These are my latest updates...stay tuned! There are more pictures here... http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa278/djalain1 Last edited by djremix : 04-05-2009 at 05:47 PM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-06-2009, 12:44 AM	#13
blazerida88 PHAT JOE Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,898 Location: birmingham alabama User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 looks like a good start, that whole trailer fender is not gonna fit in ur fender without hitting the firewall when u go to install it. and u dont have to lose ur a/c and heat, just mod ur blower box. do a search
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04-06-2009, 12:51 AM	#14
dtilley86 Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 360 Location: iowa User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 whats with the lower control arms?
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04-06-2009, 12:52 AM	#15
lee-mill where's my chippy? Age: 20 Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 8,041 Location: staatsburg, ny User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 mhm finally nice pics of shock install thanks man
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04-06-2009, 10:47 AM	#16
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by dtilley86 whats with the lower control arms? What do you mean about the control arms??? Why did you post them in the hacked thread? Ask Kris Dye about the arms, he made them...they work, they're just not modded to look alike. Sorry if I'm a little OCD. I like my shit to look good as well as function right!
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04-06-2009, 10:48 AM	#17
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by lee-mill mhm finally nice pics of shock install thanks man Thanks, not fully up and running but as soon as I'm done with fenders and heater box, it'll be on the ground, hoping in the next couple weeks. Unfortunately I work outside and I don't have a lot of time to work on it. I will update as soon as I get updates!
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04-06-2009, 05:03 PM	#18
dtilley86 Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 360 Location: iowa User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 they dont seem right to me
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04-06-2009, 06:23 PM	#19
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by dtilley86 they dont seem right to me Read the hacked thread that you posted my arms in...I said what I wanted about the control arms...done! They work and that's it!
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04-09-2009, 06:54 PM	#20
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Today was a nice day to work outside so I took the truck apart, hood and fenders are now off... Took heater box off...was thinking of taking it out and keeping it out but my heat and AC work perfectly so... ...I'll mod the heater box instead...
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04-09-2009, 07:02 PM	#21
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 So after the heater box was off I lifted the tire up with a jack under control arm to see how high it would go and if it would lay skid but not quite, missing about one inch (that's with no weight on the tires, on the ground) something is preventing it from lifting higher, the truck is lifting up instead. I think my upper ball joint is binding...WHAT DO YOU THINK?
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04-09-2009, 07:20 PM	#22
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Oh and I'm running 225/60/16 on stock wheels if it makes a difference...
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04-10-2009, 01:03 AM	#25
tohoopty Registered User Age: 26 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 1,996 Location: point pleasant wv User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 your ball joints are in wrong and turn your drivers side tire rod adjuster down a little bit Last edited by tohoopty : 04-10-2009 at 01:07 AM.
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04-10-2009, 07:46 AM	#26
GET_LOW _ Age: 18 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 5,397 Location: GH, MI User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by tohoopty your ball joints are in wrong and turn your drivers side tire rod adjuster down a little bit They look like there in right unno: Looks like those joints are pretty new. If you wanted you could get some Power Performance joints and see if those work. They have a lot more range then stock ones do.
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04-10-2009, 03:40 PM	#27
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Everything under there is new including Ball joints, tie rod ends, brake pads, rotors, calipers, lower arms, shock, drop spindle,... can't mess up an upper ball joint it can only go in one way! and I still need to tighten everything down tight after I check all fitments and clearances...
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-10-2009, 03:43 PM	#28
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by GET_LOW They look like there in right unno: Looks like those joints are pretty new. If you wanted you could get some Power Performance joints and see if those work. They have a lot more range then stock ones do. Can you send me some? After all these new parts I have very little cash. I'm not spending another $80 on new ball joints. Can anyone sponsor them for me??? LOL
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04-10-2009, 03:47 PM	#29
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by Dragginbody first things to check is tie rod hitting frame, notch for them lower control arm hitting frame anywhere,you have to trim frame where the control arms slide into the frame. take the bags and cups out, might have to trim cups down. if all that dont get it laid out, you need to get pie cut upper arms or get tubulars I checked all those clearances already and nothing is rubbing or touching anywhere. Maybe if I put the truck right on the ground and lower it that way with all the weight on the tires, might go all the way down...worth a shot, if not then looks like I'll get tubular uppers! Thanks Kris!
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-10-2009, 03:51 PM	#30
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 So I had a few minutes this morning and I plated my heater box...should be good enough. Blower is about 1/4" from plate can't cut anymore. Sorry about the crappy camera phone pic. Will update again soon!
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04-10-2009, 09:38 PM	#32
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by Dragginbody double check the most tricky part of laying out the front of a s10. right where the control arms slide into the frame. you will have to trim down the lip that will hit the lower control arm. you cant see it that good until you jack the control arm up very close to the frame. I checked that too and it's not even close to hitting that...I'm 99% sure it's the ball joint at this point. I spent a good deal of time checking and it's the same on both sides... Tubular arms are on my wish list... Guys what do you recommend for good and resonably priced tubular upper control arms?
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-10-2009, 09:55 PM	#33
GET_LOW _ Age: 18 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 5,397 Location: GH, MI User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by djremix I checked that too and it's not even close to hitting that...I'm 99% sure it's the ball joint at this point. I spent a good deal of time checking and it's the same on both sides... Tubular arms are on my wish list... Guys what do you recommend for good and resonably priced tubular upper control arms? SD upper arms. Raw with no BJ or cross shaft are 200 bucks. A pretty good deal. You can mod the uppers really easy. Atleast try, its not liek its gonna cost ya any money.
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-10-2009, 10:12 PM	#34
Tuckin15's Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 3,854 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 i really like how you did your arms!
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04-10-2009, 10:22 PM	#35
GET_LOW _ Age: 18 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 5,397 Location: GH, MI User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by STL_DRGN i really like how you did your arms! He just painted them dumb ass. Kris Dye cut them up.
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04-10-2009, 10:35 PM	#36
cruisinlows10 square bodies ftw Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 3,035 Location: virginia User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by djremix Oh and I'm running 225/60/16 on stock wheels if it makes a difference... I am running 225-55-16s and I had to beat back the top of the wheel arch in the cab for tire clearance. That may be holding you up on yours as well.
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04-10-2009, 11:02 PM	#37
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Here are a couple more pix of heater box... about 1.5" til tire hits heater box. This is as high as it goes and starts binding...tires don't rub anywhere, arms are not hitting anywhere, tie rods are close to frame but don't hit (I can put my hand between tie rod and frame)... Just ordered SD uppers, see if that helps!
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04-10-2009, 11:04 PM	#38
djremix 95 S10 Single cab V6 Age: 38 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 820 Location: Derry, NH User is: OffLine	Re: PROJECT: 1995 s10 Quote: Originally Posted by STL_DRGN i really like how you did your arms! Thanks...yeah I just smoothed them out and painted them...
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