[HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 02:20 PM

If you have a bagged s-series, you know theres that pain in the ass triangle plate on the drivers side (both sides on newer blazers) with bolts hanging down that not only hold you up from laying frame but get caught on everything and end up getting completely destroyed. Well these bolts hold your transmission crossmember in the frame, so tearing them up isnt the best idea for the integrity of your truck.

What people typically have done in the past is got in there with a big ass drill bit or die grinder and just tear up the holes in the frame, trying desperately to widen them enough to slide the bolt heads up as well fit a socket on them to tighten em down. This method sucks, mainly because the areas surrounding the holes in the frame are reinforced with steel so it doesnt collapse.

What I have been doing for quite some time is using allen key bolts. You only need to drill out the first outer layer fo the bottom frame rail, then just stick the allen bolt in and youre done. This howto will show you just how easy it is.

Heres the plate that I'm talking about. The small 13mm bolt on the crossmember itself is not needed and not replaced. The other two bolts on the frame are what we will be modifying. Most S10s have the bolts facing down with threads sticking even further below the frame however this blazer has them pointing up. It doesnt matter either way.

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 02:22 PM

Remove the small 13mm bolt from the crossmember, as well as the two longer bolts from the frame. Most of the time the head of the bolt is 13mm and the nut is 15mm but I've come acorss some nuts being 13mm as well. At this point we can see where we need to operate, the bottom frame rail.

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 02:27 PM

Get a 9/16" or 5/8" drill bit and drill out the two holes in the bottom of the frame. I prefer to use a step bit or unibit, it cuts a lot faster and is much shorter than a standard bit.

The idea here is to just drill out the bottom of the rail. Once you drill it large enough you will see the reinforcements inside the frame and the edge of the hole will be even with them. However the hole only needs to be 9/16" to get the bolt in there so as long as you go that big youre good. The top of the frame rail has the same design, and that is left alone because the shoulder of the bolt will use that lip to hold the crossmember in place.

Here are the holes drilled out and a cross section diagram of the frame showing how its built and what youre trying to achieve.

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 02:31 PM

This is what youll need to pick up from the hardware store.

2 - 3/8"-16 Socket head Allen key bolts, 1-1/2" long
2 - 3/8"-16 nuts
2 - 3/8" flat washers
2 - 3/8" lock washers

The head of these bolts uses a 5/16" allen key. Make sure to buy socket head bolts because the button heads are much too wide to fit inside the frame.

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 02:35 PM

Stick a bolt on the head of the 5/16" allen key and feed it up into the frame. Place a flat washer, then lock washer and finally the nut onto the threads of the bolt and hand tighten. Do the same for the other side. Get a short 9/16" socket with 3/8" drive ratchet and tighten them down snug. If you cant hold onto the allen key to get it tight enough, employ the use of some pliers or something. The allen keys that fold up are useful in this situation because they have the longer handle.

And thats it. Some s-series still have other issues with the crossmember itself being too low, but just about all of them have this problem with this plate and know you know how to fix it.

rcmaniac · 08-10-2005, 02:42 PM

Nice how - to dave!

Sucks that im one of the unlucky ones that has the x member that hangs below the frame on the passenger side :-/

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 02:49 PM

true, but even if you buy a replacement crossmember from devious, they give you long button head bolts that sit on the outside of the frame, and thats crap..youd still have to do this mod heh.

dawgnutz · 08-10-2005, 03:14 PM

That's dope man!

My truck is a 97', and the plate is spun 180 around and the bolts are sheared off at the frame rail.

I have to send it in to get some clutch work done , and I was worried about this , if they would charge me extra to fool with it. Now I should be able to do this and not have to worry.

Thanks man.

rcmaniac · 08-10-2005, 03:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

true, but even if you buy a replacement crossmember from devious, they give you long button head bolts that sit on the outside of the frame, and thats crap..youd still have to do this mod heh.

IMO, that devious x member is a joke.. Even though it fits better than you said it did..

Its not worth the price. Your better off making your own, and it's not all that hard.. if you can weld.. (i dont, yet..

)

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 03:30 PM

ya it fit terrible for me, maybe they dont build them on jigs and mine was off or something. its not too bad a price tho, esp since no one else makes it hah

whitedime · 08-10-2005, 03:37 PM

i made a similiar how to, but im not surprised it never got made into a sticky. :/

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 03:39 PM

ya did? this one isnt a sticky either..

~~Phildo~~ · 08-10-2005, 04:03 PM

nice dave. the cross section is good, helps a lot to understand things.

and yeah, mark made one, but it wasn't as detailed.

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 04:23 PM

oh werd, it was this one..

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/how-to-remove-tranny-x-member-triangle-185708/

that method works as stated, but IMO this one is better, and its a lot easier to do with tools that are more common to the driveway mechanic. ive tried the grinding/drilling method to make a normal bolt to fit in there and man it sucks big time which is why i came up with this.

sik4door · 08-10-2005, 04:53 PM

so by doing this its not gona make that crossmember week ? because the bottom support was removed

***AVTekk*** · 08-10-2005, 05:32 PM

nope, that piece isnt needed.

BIGGERISBETTER · 08-10-2005, 10:21 PM

pretty damn creative .. how to's kick ass

whitedime · 08-11-2005, 08:14 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

oh werd, it was this one..

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=185708

that method works as stated, but IMO this one is better, and its a lot easier to do with tools that are more common to the driveway mechanic. ive tried the grinding/drilling method to make a normal bolt to fit in there and man it sucks big time which is why i came up with this.

yea i dont know i only had this little cambell hausfield grinders with a grinding bit for me it was really easy but what ever works.

dagreenmonster · 08-11-2005, 11:37 AM

good stuff, im going out there right now to go do this mod

Low99Sonoma · 08-11-2005, 03:06 PM

Good ass HOW TO. Props.

projo198 · 08-11-2005, 04:10 PM

Been meaning to do this, now that I have a garage looks like I'll be hooking it up this weekend. Thanks for hooking us up with the process and bolt and nut specs Dave!

dagreenmonster · 08-11-2005, 05:24 PM

man that was easy, took like 10 minutes to do....only thing that sux now is i guess i never notched my l.c.a enough for the frame, so i gotta take some more out of it

***AVTekk*** · 08-11-2005, 05:32 PM

layinsdm · 08-26-2005, 06:04 PM

well I drug though mine already and I am going to just weld it in tomarrow

***AVTekk*** · 08-26-2005, 06:10 PM

well thats pretty ignorant..oh ya i forgot, you have one of those 500,000 mile trannys that never need to be serviced

dawgnutz · 08-26-2005, 07:36 PM

Thanks for Bringing this back up, Now I gotta go get the goddies to do it!

layinsdm · 08-28-2005, 02:00 PM

OK mister AVtekk truck god do you have a better Idea. I have no bolt left in it, what was sticking out is gone and the rest is where I couldnt get to it and I needed a quick fix so it wouldnt fall out.

***AVTekk*** · 08-28-2005, 02:19 PM

wtf? didnt i make this thread showing everyone exactly how it can be fixed quick and cheap???

~~Phildo~~ · 08-28-2005, 05:58 PM

ya, it was quick and cheap. i got one of the cap screws in. the other bolt is uhm, stuck. heh. i haven't had a chance to try to get it out, but i know i drug the 1/4" of it that was hanging down, and it didn't budge.

***AVTekk*** · 08-28-2005, 09:38 PM

hit it with a steel punch and hammer

~~Phildo~~ · 08-29-2005, 01:26 AM

yeah, when i get time, i'm gonna do that. i just haven't had time lately. heh

projo198 · 08-29-2005, 04:33 PM

I didn't have a freaking drill bit short enough to get the drill between the floor and the frame, so I had to use a slightly larger specialty bit and put my jack on bricks to get the distance. All worked out in the end though, we love you Dave..

~~Phildo~~ · 08-29-2005, 04:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by projo198

I didn't have a freaking drill bit short enough to get the drill between the floor and the frame, so I had to use a slightly larger specialty bit and put my jack on bricks to get the distance. All worked out in the end though, we love you Dave..

step bits > all

that worked like a charm...

98S-10Dude · 09-02-2005, 06:21 PM

damn too bad this couldn't come out when I first got bag'd, i drug the whole triangle plate off

sweet how to

***AVTekk*** · 09-02-2005, 08:16 PM

ya you cant go wrong with a step bit. im just glad these how-tos can be of use to people.

dawgnutz · 09-02-2005, 08:47 PM

Bought my Bolts and Nylock nuts, washers, as well as a net set of hex keys.

I didn't Realize Uni-Bits were soooooo expensive! ?!?! But it'll be a worthwhile investment.

Nad I'm sure for most of you, $35 isn't expensive, but for me it did startle me.

Hey Dave ,

I ended up getting 1&1/4 " long 3/8-16's. Will this be a problem? They were out of stock, and this was what they had. I'm not sure, because with the nylock nuts, minus the lock washers I think I should be okay....?

dagreenmonster · 09-02-2005, 08:59 PM

yea 1 1/4 should be good...i thought the 1'' was a little to short for me, but it worked

dawgnutz · 09-03-2005, 01:22 PM

Right on! Thanks guys!

2lo4dsno · 09-03-2005, 01:45 PM

i just did this mod on an 03 blazer im workin on....literally took 20 minutes, start to finish......sweet deal......now i just gota talk the customer into draggin the middle Xmember off

***AVTekk*** · 09-03-2005, 04:55 PM

yep 1-1/4" will work fine, theres plenty of room above the bolt to allow for a longer stud.

2lo4dsno · 09-04-2005, 10:54 AM

so i just checked...and after doing the mod, i look at the frame....and the bitch is still 1/2" off the ground....so im lookin around the truck....and lemme tell ya....the front skid plate is PLANTED flat on the ground......she shall go no lower

96dragginSdime · 09-04-2005, 08:02 PM

is the back bagged??

2lo4dsno · 09-05-2005, 11:57 AM

yea the back is bagged...and it lays the back of the frame on the ground.....just the front of the frame, under the doors, doesnt touch....but the skid plate does....nothing can be done....im not worried about it.

dawgnutz · 09-05-2005, 03:29 PM

Thanks Dave! I let the Tranny shop deal with the old sheared off bolts, I will probably do the mod either today, or next friday when I'm off.

I just got my new injector assembly, got the fuel pump sending unit, got the clutch done, and a few other parts and pieces.............

I am going to be busy for a while.

SWEET!

dawgnutz · 10-03-2005, 12:40 PM

Hey Dave, got a question...............

The 1 & 1/4 " bolts arent making it up high enough into the frame to get a washer and lock nut on.....

I have the front bolt in and a nut attached, only by a few threads , the rear bolt wont even make it up through the top of the rail. I DO have the holes drilled out big enough on the bottom of the frame to get the bolts and allen key in. I have the 3/8" 16 thread hex cap screws, is my truck different? What was the diameter of the old bolts that located the piece?

I installed the new engine and tranny mounts and slid everything back forward. (was pulled back like an inch and a half.) so I know that the holes should line up. I can run a drift pin through it and the holes are fine, but I am wondering if there is something else up inside the frame rail?

Should I try a longer bolt? or am I missing something else?

Thanks for any help.

dagreenmonster · 10-03-2005, 01:11 PM

yea just get like 1 1/2....i had the same problem, but the 1 1/4 is still holding strong...if u want to be safe go with the 1/2

***AVTekk*** · 10-03-2005, 01:16 PM

Ya Im going to ammend the how-to. On the '99 truck I did the mod on, 1-1/4" was actually way too long, a 3/4" bolt could have worked. But i just did the same thing on a '02 truck and it needed the 1-1/2" to fit. So Ill just recommend to get the longer bolt for every application. Sorry about that.

JollyGreenMini · 10-03-2005, 02:38 PM

Awsome how-to, i'd go do it, but my LCA is hitting the frame, that's what's keeping me from laying out. And even when I fix that, then my tire hits the clutch master cylinder, and then the firewall on the passanger side... I really wish I wouldnt have rushed through everything just to get it done... Ahhh well I was young a stupid.

dawgnutz · 10-03-2005, 02:50 PM

Right on!

Thanks guys, I appreciate it, I'll hit up the hardware store tonight on the way home.

dnut24 · 10-03-2005, 03:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

Ya Im going to ammend the how-to. On the '99 truck I did the mod on, 1-1/4" was actually way too long, a 3/4" bolt could have worked. But i just did the same thing on a '02 truck and it needed the 1-1/2" to fit. So Ill just recommend to get the longer bolt for every application. Sorry about that.

it gets weirder. my 99 v6 manual, the 1 1/2" is too short. i could only thread it a bit without the washer or lock washer. i'm gonna have to use a 2" to be able to secure properly.

thicker frames?

08-10-2005, 02:42 PM	#6
rcmaniac Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 12,216 Location: Largo, FL User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Nice how - to dave! Sucks that im one of the unlucky ones that has the x member that hangs below the frame on the passenger side :-/
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2005, 03:14 PM	#8
dawgnutz Easily Distracted Age: 30 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,936 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod That's dope man! My truck is a 97', and the plate is spun 180 around and the bolts are sheared off at the frame rail. I have to send it in to get some clutch work done , and I was worried about this , if they would charge me extra to fool with it. Now I should be able to do this and not have to worry. Thanks man.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2005, 03:23 PM	#9
rcmaniac Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 12,216 Location: Largo, FL User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk true, but even if you buy a replacement crossmember from devious, they give you long button head bolts that sit on the outside of the frame, and thats crap..youd still have to do this mod heh. IMO, that devious x member is a joke.. Even though it fits better than you said it did.. Its not worth the price. Your better off making your own, and it's not all that hard.. if you can weld.. (i dont, yet.. )
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2005, 03:37 PM	#11
whitedime woof Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 4,946 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod i made a similiar how to, but im not surprised it never got made into a sticky. :/
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2005, 04:03 PM	#13
~~Phildo~~ Dildoans Age: 28 Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 18,121 Location: Ft. Wayne, IN User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod nice dave. the cross section is good, helps a lot to understand things. and yeah, mark made one, but it wasn't as detailed.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2005, 04:53 PM	#15
sik4door IZ Age: 29 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,857 Location: NWK nor*cal User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod so by doing this its not gona make that crossmember week ? because the bottom support was removed
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2005, 10:21 PM	#17
BIGGERISBETTER flat blue and layin frame Age: 25 Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 5,871 Location: Bolivar, Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod pretty damn creative .. how to's kick ass
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-11-2005, 08:14 AM	#18
whitedime woof Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 4,946 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk oh werd, it was this one.. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=185708 that method works as stated, but IMO this one is better, and its a lot easier to do with tools that are more common to the driveway mechanic. ive tried the grinding/drilling method to make a normal bolt to fit in there and man it sucks big time which is why i came up with this. yea i dont know i only had this little cambell hausfield grinders with a grinding bit for me it was really easy but what ever works.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-11-2005, 11:37 AM	#19
dagreenmonster It's all rattle canned Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11,303 Location: Long Island, NY User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod good stuff, im going out there right now to go do this mod
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-11-2005, 03:06 PM	#20
Low99Sonoma Registered Asshole Age: 26 Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 5,812 Location: Chicago, IL User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Good ass HOW TO. Props.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-11-2005, 04:10 PM	#21
projo198 SHENANIGANS!!! Age: 31 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 5,852 Location: your little sister's room. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Been meaning to do this, now that I have a garage looks like I'll be hooking it up this weekend. Thanks for hooking us up with the process and bolt and nut specs Dave!
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-11-2005, 05:24 PM	#22
dagreenmonster It's all rattle canned Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11,303 Location: Long Island, NY User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod man that was easy, took like 10 minutes to do....only thing that sux now is i guess i never notched my l.c.a enough for the frame, so i gotta take some more out of it
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-26-2005, 06:04 PM	#24
layinsdm Registered User Age: 25 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 5 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod well I drug though mine already and I am going to just weld it in tomarrow
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-26-2005, 07:36 PM	#26
dawgnutz Easily Distracted Age: 30 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,936 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Thanks for Bringing this back up, Now I gotta go get the goddies to do it!
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-28-2005, 02:00 PM	#27
layinsdm Registered User Age: 25 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 5 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod OK mister AVtekk truck god do you have a better Idea. I have no bolt left in it, what was sticking out is gone and the rest is where I couldnt get to it and I needed a quick fix so it wouldnt fall out.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-28-2005, 05:58 PM	#29
~~Phildo~~ Dildoans Age: 28 Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 18,121 Location: Ft. Wayne, IN User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod ya, it was quick and cheap. i got one of the cap screws in. the other bolt is uhm, stuck. heh. i haven't had a chance to try to get it out, but i know i drug the 1/4" of it that was hanging down, and it didn't budge.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-29-2005, 01:26 AM	#31
~~Phildo~~ Dildoans Age: 28 Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 18,121 Location: Ft. Wayne, IN User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod yeah, when i get time, i'm gonna do that. i just haven't had time lately. heh
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-29-2005, 04:33 PM	#32
projo198 SHENANIGANS!!! Age: 31 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 5,852 Location: your little sister's room. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod I didn't have a freaking drill bit short enough to get the drill between the floor and the frame, so I had to use a slightly larger specialty bit and put my jack on bricks to get the distance. All worked out in the end though, we love you Dave..
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-29-2005, 04:39 PM	#33
~~Phildo~~ Dildoans Age: 28 Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 18,121 Location: Ft. Wayne, IN User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Quote: Originally Posted by projo198 I didn't have a freaking drill bit short enough to get the drill between the floor and the frame, so I had to use a slightly larger specialty bit and put my jack on bricks to get the distance. All worked out in the end though, we love you Dave.. step bits > all that worked like a charm...
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-02-2005, 06:21 PM	#34
98S-10Dude Mini-Milita!!!!! Age: 26 Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 6,977 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod damn too bad this couldn't come out when I first got bag'd, i drug the whole triangle plate off sweet how to
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-02-2005, 08:47 PM	#36
dawgnutz Easily Distracted Age: 30 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,936 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Bought my Bolts and Nylock nuts, washers, as well as a net set of hex keys. I didn't Realize Uni-Bits were soooooo expensive! ?!?! But it'll be a worthwhile investment. Nad I'm sure for most of you, $35 isn't expensive, but for me it did startle me. Hey Dave , I ended up getting 1&1/4 " long 3/8-16's. Will this be a problem? They were out of stock, and this was what they had. I'm not sure, because with the nylock nuts, minus the lock washers I think I should be okay....?
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-02-2005, 08:59 PM	#37
dagreenmonster It's all rattle canned Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11,303 Location: Long Island, NY User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod yea 1 1/4 should be good...i thought the 1'' was a little to short for me, but it worked
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-03-2005, 01:22 PM	#38
dawgnutz Easily Distracted Age: 30 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,936 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Right on! Thanks guys!
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-03-2005, 01:45 PM	#39
2lo4dsno Kutter Age: 32 Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 141 Location: @ The Dub User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod i just did this mod on an 03 blazer im workin on....literally took 20 minutes, start to finish......sweet deal......now i just gota talk the customer into draggin the middle Xmember off
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-04-2005, 10:54 AM	#41
2lo4dsno Kutter Age: 32 Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 141 Location: @ The Dub User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod so i just checked...and after doing the mod, i look at the frame....and the bitch is still 1/2" off the ground....so im lookin around the truck....and lemme tell ya....the front skid plate is PLANTED flat on the ground......she shall go no lower
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-04-2005, 08:02 PM	#42
96dragginSdime Some Day Age: 23 Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 5,605 Location: Pittsburgh PA User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod is the back bagged??
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-05-2005, 11:57 AM	#43
2lo4dsno Kutter Age: 32 Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 141 Location: @ The Dub User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod yea the back is bagged...and it lays the back of the frame on the ground.....just the front of the frame, under the doors, doesnt touch....but the skid plate does....nothing can be done....im not worried about it.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-05-2005, 03:29 PM	#44
dawgnutz Easily Distracted Age: 30 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,936 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Thanks Dave! I let the Tranny shop deal with the old sheared off bolts, I will probably do the mod either today, or next friday when I'm off. I just got my new injector assembly, got the fuel pump sending unit, got the clutch done, and a few other parts and pieces............. I am going to be busy for a while. SWEET!
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2005, 12:40 PM	#45
dawgnutz Easily Distracted Age: 30 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,936 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Hey Dave, got a question............... The 1 & 1/4 " bolts arent making it up high enough into the frame to get a washer and lock nut on..... I have the front bolt in and a nut attached, only by a few threads , the rear bolt wont even make it up through the top of the rail. I DO have the holes drilled out big enough on the bottom of the frame to get the bolts and allen key in. I have the 3/8" 16 thread hex cap screws, is my truck different? What was the diameter of the old bolts that located the piece? I installed the new engine and tranny mounts and slid everything back forward. (was pulled back like an inch and a half.) so I know that the holes should line up. I can run a drift pin through it and the holes are fine, but I am wondering if there is something else up inside the frame rail? Should I try a longer bolt? or am I missing something else? Thanks for any help.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2005, 01:11 PM	#46
dagreenmonster It's all rattle canned Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11,303 Location: Long Island, NY User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod yea just get like 1 1/2....i had the same problem, but the 1 1/4 is still holding strong...if u want to be safe go with the 1/2
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2005, 02:38 PM	#48
JollyGreenMini Still 2 High Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2001 Posts: 7,441 Location: Brockway, PA User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Awsome how-to, i'd go do it, but my LCA is hitting the frame, that's what's keeping me from laying out. And even when I fix that, then my tire hits the clutch master cylinder, and then the firewall on the passanger side... I really wish I wouldnt have rushed through everything just to get it done... Ahhh well I was young a stupid.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2005, 02:50 PM	#49
dawgnutz Easily Distracted Age: 30 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,936 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Right on! Thanks guys, I appreciate it, I'll hit up the hardware store tonight on the way home.
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10-03-2005, 03:24 PM	#50
dnut24 BAAWDDYYY DRAAAWP! Age: 31 Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 1,033 Location: Columbia, SC User is: OffLine	Re: [HowTo] Trans Crossmember Plate Mod Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk Ya Im going to ammend the how-to. On the '99 truck I did the mod on, 1-1/4" was actually way too long, a 3/4" bolt could have worked. But i just did the same thing on a '02 truck and it needed the 1-1/2" to fit. So Ill just recommend to get the longer bolt for every application. Sorry about that. it gets weirder. my 99 v6 manual, the 1 1/2" is too short. i could only thread it a bit without the washer or lock washer. i'm gonna have to use a 2" to be able to secure properly. thicker frames?
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