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[How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

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Old 04-06-2010, 05:00 PM   #1
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[How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

After spending the past few weeks going over every aspect of my air set-up, I realized that there was no COMPLETE diagram available online for how to wire/plumb a system. Sure, there were partial diagrams on SD, Viair, etc, but, nothing comprehensive.

I designed these diagrams in two parts: valves and compressors. These two diagrams can be printed off and are designed so that they overlay making one complete system.

If everyone thinks these are good, I vote we make them a sticky to help eliminate alot of question about this type of thing.

And of course, I realize everyone has different ways of doing things, but, this is a straight-forward starting place for those looking to do a system.

Enjoy!
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Last edited by K Dawg ONE; 04-06-2010 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:52 PM   #2
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

I have a picture showing a way to plumb a system and gives the exact fitting size and everything, theres just soo many ways to do it tho
Old 04-06-2010, 07:54 PM   #3
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

oh and yours looks like you just changed sd's

http://www.suicidedoors.com/files/ho...ams/8valve.gif
Old 04-06-2010, 07:58 PM   #4
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

What I would like to see is 2 Comps, 2 3 gal 3 port tanks, a pressure switch, 8 valves, and 3 gauge lines. I have a setup like this, and am contemplating the different ways to do it.
Old 04-06-2010, 08:09 PM   #5
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

You only need 1 gauge line to the tank, u hookin these tanks together?
Old 04-06-2010, 10:17 PM   #6
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by Patawick
oh and yours looks like you just changed sd's

http://www.suicidedoors.com/files/ho...ams/8valve.gif
Yeah I did...I used one from SD and one from Viair.

And im working on a 3rd diagram showing switch wiring that overlays with the valve diagram.

Last edited by K Dawg ONE; 04-06-2010 at 10:18 PM.
Old 04-06-2010, 10:20 PM   #7
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by Patawick
I have a picture showing a way to plumb a system and gives the exact fitting size and everything, theres just soo many ways to do it tho
Well, I know, that when I was starting to do my air setup, I went through pages and pages on this forum and I found all the answers I needed, but, it was bits and pieces of advice from 10000 different threads.

If there was something like this before, it wouldve made my life more simple as I am someone who needs to see everything on paper in or to understand it.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:10 AM   #8
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Is that wiring diagram typical of how most are wiring their systems ? If so, I see one problem in the fusing there, and I think I also know why some have pressure switch failures.

Last edited by IRSd_mini; 04-07-2010 at 11:12 AM.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:36 AM   #9
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Hmm, my check valve is on the tank side, after my water trap (coming from the compressor).
Old 04-07-2010, 02:07 PM   #10
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by IRSd_mini
Is that wiring diagram typical of how most are wiring their systems ? If so, I see one problem in the fusing there, and I think I also know why some have pressure switch failures.

That wiring diagram is identical to what Viair has on their website for the dual pack compressor packages.
Old 04-07-2010, 04:16 PM   #11
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by Kovz
Hmm, my check valve is on the tank side, after my water trap (coming from the compressor).
Viairs have them built into the leaderhose so that why i went this way...
Old 04-07-2010, 10:32 PM   #12
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by zap-mann
That wiring diagram is identical to what Viair has on their website for the dual pack compressor packages.
OK here is what I see wrong... That one fuse has to be big enough to handle the load of two compressors. So say a 60 amp fuse ? That is ok for the 4 or 6 gauge wire that should be ran back to handle the two comps. But that wire has to Tee off to run to two comps. So that would be a smaller size 10 or 12 gauge wire. The comps also have a wire that size coming off them. If both comps fail, it would probably blow that large fuse. But in reality, it is more likely that only one comp would have a problem. And If one comp has a problem, a 10 or 12 gauge wire can easily melt, with less than 60 amps. Thus not blowing that fuse. And melted wires sometimes lead to fires. There should be a fuse or circuit breaker right off the battery in the main power line. Then it should go to a junction box with two smaller fuses, one for each compressor. Think of how car audio is done... Or even the main wiring in the car. Large main feed wires, then branch to smaller fuses, and then smaller wires going out.
Next may not be a problem, but it is what I do different, that may be why I don't blow pressure switches. These relays are the same as used on driving lights, electric fans, high current electric fuel pumps, aftermarket elect door lock and window kits, etc., Nothing new for me. And I learned many years ago to switch the negative side. So I run the keyed power to the relay #86 terminal. And run the grounds from the relays (#85) to the pressure switch. And ground that.
Now for the plumbing diagram... Having one port for each thing is nice. But doesn't always work. And is rarely even necessary. If you get creative, it doesn't have to slow the system down either. Here are a couple examples on how to do this...
First, most tanks we use have 1/2" ports on them. That port will flow a lot of air. You can put two viair compressors on one port. A 480 only puts out about 1/2 a cfm at high pressure. 1/2 + 1/2 = 1. A 1/2" port will easily flow more than 1 cfm. So will a single 1/2" port moisture trap.
Next, the tank gauge and pressure switch really don't need there own port. You can use one of the drilled and tapped T's like use for the bag gauge for them. Even running lines out to your valves... You can put a T at the tank, and run an air line to one front valve set, and one rear valve set off that T. When I lift my truck, I usually hit the two front first, then the two rears. So I would not be drawing air for two fill valves off the same port at once. And if you run 3/8" or smaller line, two fills at once off that single 1/2" port is not a problem any way. And if you are running 1/4" line, run a single large line off the tank, and hide a manifold somewhere, and run you psi switch, and airlines from there. That really cleans it up. Its how my street rod installs are done. Really simplifies things.
Moisture traps... I always disagree with the trap before the tank. Air is heated when it is compressed. And when it cools it gives off its moisture. The moisture trap is there to collect that moisture. Problem with most installs, is that the air cools in the tank... Not in the line/ trap on the way to the tank. Go look at any industrial air system. The tanks have drains, and the traps are after the tank. Sure your traps might catch some water before the tank, but I bet there is more in there. Don't believe me on this ? Do a little internet searching. Air ride suspension systems are the only places you will see the trap before the tank. And to add to that... moisture will also form in the tank as the temperature warms up. So that cool air in the morning, will condensate in the afternoon heat. Whats your trap at the inlet doing then ?
This stuff isn't all that difficult, apply a little common sense to it. And dont be afraid to look outside the mini truck air bag world for answers.

Last edited by IRSd_mini; 04-07-2010 at 10:41 PM.
Old 04-07-2010, 10:43 PM   #13
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

I'm not too involved with other air systems but I've never seen a water trap after the tank... plus... isn't that why alot of ppl install drains in the bottom of their tanks??
Old 04-07-2010, 11:02 PM   #14
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by blazinjake
I'm not too involved with other air systems but I've never seen a water trap after the tank... plus... isn't that why alot of ppl install drains in the bottom of their tanks??
Go to www.google.com and type in "moisture trap for air compressor" and you can learn all about it. There is nothing different about an air ride air system, and a shop air system. Same theories apply.
Old 04-08-2010, 12:58 AM   #15
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

yep yep, but higher psiii, atleast around my parts lol
Old 04-08-2010, 09:05 AM   #16
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

IRSd_mini:

Lots of valid points...good info!

I did say that each person will do things there own way/different variation. Heck, even for me, I ran a fused distribution block to the back of my Blazer and each comp relay is individually fused from the block.

As for the traps, generally, in most systems, they are before the tank to help catch water before it enters in the tank. Water in the tank is emptied generally through a drain cock in the bottom of the tank. I had thought originally of running a single trap after each port before each bank of valves, but,that adds extra cost and is not usually how most people do their set-ups.

These diagrams where designed to be a starting point for beginners. As said, when I started, and i was just trying to visualize the flow of an air ride system, there was nothing for me to look at. I am a visual learner and I think this will be a great starting place for people...
Old 04-08-2010, 01:25 PM   #17
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by Patawick
yep yep, but higher psiii, atleast around my parts lol
The air comp in my shop runs at 140. The air in my truck is 145. And my last street rod only ran 130. So not really any difference around here
Old 04-08-2010, 01:32 PM   #18
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by K Dawg ONE

As for the traps, generally, in most systems, they are before the tank to help catch water before it enters in the tank. Water in the tank is emptied generally through a drain cock in the bottom of the tank. I had thought originally of running a single trap after each port before each bank of valves, but,that adds extra cost and is not usually how most people do their set-ups.
.
I think cost is the main factor here. If someone ran one comp and four lines out to the tank, running four traps is what a $100 more than running one ? So at some point someone decided to run it on the inlet, and people just went with it. So much of this is just people doing what they see, with the "well it worked for him" mentality. With no regards to right or wrong, or better or worse. Think 2 link LOL.... But let me ask you this.... Is it more important to keep moisture out of the tank, or keep it out of the valves and bags ? I would choose to let it form in the tank, and drain the tank, and filter the air coming out of the tank. But since I live in a dry climate, and dont have the moisture probs some of you have, plumb it however you want

Let me throw out one last thing on the subject of moisture traps... The two biggest names in Air ride suspension systems are Air Ride Technologies and Air Lift Company. Go look at their kits. See any moisture traps ? The very biggest names, don.t use them (with the exception being airlifts engine driven, and that is an oil trap). Its a mini trucker thing...

Last edited by IRSd_mini; 04-08-2010 at 01:38 PM.
Old 04-08-2010, 01:56 PM   #19
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Gotta agree with Larry on his comments for the fusing strategy I also use ground logic to trip the relays.....more reliable, much easier & safer. Think about failure mode!
Old 04-08-2010, 02:45 PM   #20
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by IRSd_mini
OK here is what I see wrong... That one fuse has to be big enough to handle the load of two compressors. So say a 60 amp fuse ? That is ok for the 4 or 6 gauge wire that should be ran back to handle the two comps. But that wire has to Tee off to run to two comps. So that would be a smaller size 10 or 12 gauge wire. The comps also have a wire that size coming off them. If both comps fail, it would probably blow that large fuse. But in reality, it is more likely that only one comp would have a problem. And If one comp has a problem, a 10 or 12 gauge wire can easily melt, with less than 60 amps. Thus not blowing that fuse. And melted wires sometimes lead to fires. There should be a fuse or circuit breaker right off the battery in the main power line. Then it should go to a junction box with two smaller fuses, one for each compressor. Think of how car audio is done... Or even the main wiring in the car. Large main feed wires, then branch to smaller fuses, and then smaller wires going out.
Next may not be a problem, but it is what I do different, that may be why I don't blow pressure switches. These relays are the same as used on driving lights, electric fans, high current electric fuel pumps, aftermarket elect door lock and window kits, etc., Nothing new for me. And I learned many years ago to switch the negative side. So I run the keyed power to the relay #86 terminal. And run the grounds from the relays (#85) to the pressure switch. And ground that.
Now for the plumbing diagram... Having one port for each thing is nice. But doesn't always work. And is rarely even necessary. If you get creative, it doesn't have to slow the system down either. Here are a couple examples on how to do this...
First, most tanks we use have 1/2" ports on them. That port will flow a lot of air. You can put two viair compressors on one port. A 480 only puts out about 1/2 a cfm at high pressure. 1/2 + 1/2 = 1. A 1/2" port will easily flow more than 1 cfm. So will a single 1/2" port moisture trap.
Next, the tank gauge and pressure switch really don't need there own port. You can use one of the drilled and tapped T's like use for the bag gauge for them. Even running lines out to your valves... You can put a T at the tank, and run an air line to one front valve set, and one rear valve set off that T. When I lift my truck, I usually hit the two front first, then the two rears. So I would not be drawing air for two fill valves off the same port at once. And if you run 3/8" or smaller line, two fills at once off that single 1/2" port is not a problem any way. And if you are running 1/4" line, run a single large line off the tank, and hide a manifold somewhere, and run you psi switch, and airlines from there. That really cleans it up. Its how my street rod installs are done. Really simplifies things.
Moisture traps... I always disagree with the trap before the tank. Air is heated when it is compressed. And when it cools it gives off its moisture. The moisture trap is there to collect that moisture. Problem with most installs, is that the air cools in the tank... Not in the line/ trap on the way to the tank. Go look at any industrial air system. The tanks have drains, and the traps are after the tank. Sure your traps might catch some water before the tank, but I bet there is more in there. Don't believe me on this ? Do a little internet searching. Air ride suspension systems are the only places you will see the trap before the tank. And to add to that... moisture will also form in the tank as the temperature warms up. So that cool air in the morning, will condensate in the afternoon heat. Whats your trap at the inlet doing then ?
This stuff isn't all that difficult, apply a little common sense to it. And dont be afraid to look outside the mini truck air bag world for answers.
I agree 100% Larry. Was stating that is how Viair diagrams the wiring.
Having installed alarms in the past the idea of grounding the neg. side works well and is recommended by many alarm co. to keep from blowing inputs.

If nothing else, when running dual compressors I would not want that single point of failure keeping a good comp. from kicking on therefore individually fusing each compressor.

I never understood why everyone put water traps going into the tank. leader hoses are typically short and the air hasn't had time to cool down and condensate before entering the tank and therefore the trap does very little.

Just my 2 cents.
Old 04-08-2010, 04:01 PM   #21
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Edited the first diagram to show each relay having its own fuse.

(I didnt changed the reversing of the grounding to the pressure switch, although I agree with you guys, only because 'technically', if thats how VIAIR says to do it, for warranty, best to do it that way, lol)
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:46 PM   #22
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Larry,

It is so nice to read your info...




It saves me from having to type the same exact thing lol

Well said, and Agree 100%
Old 04-09-2010, 11:23 AM   #23
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by DJDAudio
Larry,

It is so nice to read your info...




It saves me from having to type the same exact thing lol

Well said, and Agree 100%
All we can do is put the correct info out there. It is up to them if they want to use it
Old 04-09-2010, 03:21 PM   #24
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Larry, PM sent!
Old 04-09-2010, 05:28 PM   #25
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

So... that being the case would it be more feasible, in regards of removing moisture (not speed of air...), to run 2 lines from tank to 2 separate traps then Tee off after the trap to valves?? just trying to prevent buying 4 traps....
Old 04-09-2010, 05:42 PM   #26
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by blazinjake
So... that being the case would it be more feasible, in regards of removing moisture (not speed of air...), to run 2 lines from tank to 2 separate traps then Tee off after the trap to valves?? just trying to prevent buying 4 traps....
Yes,

Think of the water lines in your house. You only have one port from the street, so it comes in large and as it goes on it gets smaller and smaller as it is tapped off to go to different locations. This larger trunk allows for the same flow as the many smaller lines going off of it.
Old 04-09-2010, 11:52 PM   #27
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Update! After listening to Larry and Doug, I updated the wiring based on their recomendations, experience, and advice!

(*mods, can you replace the original post diagram with this one? Thanks!)
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Last edited by K Dawg ONE; 04-09-2010 at 11:56 PM.
Old 04-10-2010, 12:04 AM   #28
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

I remember going round and round with the electronic guys when I made this diagram,

http://air-zenith.com/images_u%5C113...OB1_Wiring.jpg

When you switch the power side like Larry said, you can damage the control source in the event of a short.

When you switch the ground leg, in the event of a short the compressors will continue to run.

So I guess the best way is both.

Run the switch source like ignition to a relay that relays power from the source to a fused power run for the relays. That switch +12V this way, in the event of a short or problem the fuse will blow and the compressors will stop running. The ignition source will be fine.

i may have to draw this up to make sense.
Old 04-11-2010, 10:10 PM   #29
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

double relays is a little more confusing, and seems like over kill.


Is the benefit of using a ground trigger on the presser switch only in case of a failure?
Old 04-12-2010, 11:56 AM   #30
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by revobreaker
double relays is a little more confusing, and seems like over kill.


Is the benefit of using a ground trigger on the presser switch only in case of a failure?
I dont know if its overkill, running both comps through the relay at one time I think is a bit much for a single relay to handle.

As for the ground trigger, I think your right (according to Larry and Doug anyways)...
Old 04-12-2010, 04:18 PM   #31
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

failure and if Im in a drive thru i use the switch to cut the compressors off so i wont have to be listening to them run. 1 of those relays wont last long with two compressors, Ive wired one up like that but if i can get an 80 amp relay I jump on it. I guess it may be better with two tho incase it goes out, you'll still have a compressor running, plus those type of relays are sold everywhere
Old 04-13-2010, 12:21 AM   #32
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

^^yeah, i picked up 10 relays and sockets for under $10 shipped on ebay!
Old 04-13-2010, 10:36 PM   #33
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

I know one relay per comp, I was referring to something DJD said, but I wasnt thinking about it right sooo nevermind.
Old 05-14-2010, 12:20 PM   #34
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by DJDAudio
I remember going round and round with the electronic guys when I made this diagram,

http://air-zenith.com/images_u%5C113...OB1_Wiring.jpg

When you switch the power side like Larry said, you can damage the control source in the event of a short.

When you switch the ground leg, in the event of a short the compressors will continue to run.

So I guess the best way is both.

Run the switch source like ignition to a relay that relays power from the source to a fused power run for the relays. That switch +12V this way, in the event of a short or problem the fuse will blow and the compressors will stop running. The ignition source will be fine.

i may have to draw this up to make sense.
Any hope for that draw up? I'm confused as hell..
Old 05-21-2010, 10:55 AM   #35
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

here are a couple of diagrams i made up for one of my friends who wanted to get into air ride but didn't quite understand all the basics. i hope they are helpful. i know the compressor wiring is very similar to the AZ diagram, but i went ahead and did this so he could study up the diagram and then apply it to my truck to see it all in action. hope it helps!

fittings

FULL SIZED LINK: http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/fittings.jpg

wiring

FULL SIZED LINK: http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...or_wiring2.jpg



the random 4 AWG wire going off the side of my diagram was for my stereo.

i know this isn't the only way to do things... and in some peoples opinions might not even be the best way to do things (i.e. i don't run a pressure switch, only my manual toggle and no check valves on the fittings diagram) but this is the way i did it and hopefully it can help all you visual learners out there.
Old 05-21-2010, 11:14 AM   #36
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Very nice start on those! Makes it look so complicated haha.

I would change the Plug on the bottom of the tank to a drain plug so the tank can be drained

Also Each valve can be grounded individually if the end user does not want to buy a distribution block. Finding a distribution block that does not have fuses is tricky. For you do not want a fuse on the +12V and ground for that can cause all kinds of problems
Old 05-21-2010, 11:25 AM   #37
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

haha. yeah that spells trouble with the fuses. there happen to be a car audio place in my town that was going out of business so i got a bunch of distribution blocks for stupid cheap. lol

i had a drain cock on the bottom for a while, but it was only rated for 150 psi and would blow open around 200psi. lol. i just have the plug and open it up every week or so and let the tank air out.
Old 05-21-2010, 11:44 AM   #38
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by pewter_dime_99
haha. yeah that spells trouble with the fuses. there happen to be a car audio place in my town that was going out of business so i got a bunch of distribution blocks for stupid cheap. lol

i had a drain cock on the bottom for a while, but it was only rated for 150 psi and would blow open around 200psi. lol. i just have the plug and open it up every week or so and let the tank air out.
an elbow and small 1/4" ball valve also works great
Old 07-12-2010, 10:42 PM   #39
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Ok not trying to dig stuff up and great diagrams by the way, the one thing I'm still kinda wondering about where people get their power for switches from

I didn't do the original wiring on my truck and want to put switches in the dash this yr so I'm also going to redo all the wiring and I have the valves down, the battery and compa down but jut not the power for the switches
Old 07-13-2010, 02:17 PM   #40
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

I have an ARC-7 so the power is dirctly to a +12v lead that comes off the switch box.
The power for that lead however,comes from the dist. block that also powers the relays for my comps (seen here: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attach...ring-comp2.gif )

Last edited by K Dawg ONE; 07-13-2010 at 02:19 PM.
Old 02-08-2011, 09:41 AM   #41
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

what wouldl i do if i didnt wanna run a pressure switch with #85 or how would i do a toggle if the switch decide to go when im out ? u toggle power and the #85 line
Old 03-13-2011, 12:27 AM   #42
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

im installing 2 ob1 az comps and i have one 80 amp swinger relay that i got from sd.com can i use just the one relay or do i need another one, the reason for asking is cause i was reading the warning label on the comp and it said to use one for each comp, also on the wiring do i run the 2 power cables from the comp to the distribution block and then one to the swinger relay
Old 03-13-2011, 12:50 AM   #43
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

So is 18 gauge wire ok to use for the valves? i have a 200 foot roll just lying around.
Old 03-13-2011, 11:31 PM   #44
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

I think those comps pull 35A each, so 70A together, should be ok on the 80A relay. You would want one (heavy guage) wire coming into the relay, then two (one to each comp) coming out. Be sure to fuse it properly!

18ga will be fine for valves ( dont know specs off top of my head but I dont think they pull too much current)

Pic above in post #35 actually illustrates all of that, with wire recommendations and everything.
Old 03-14-2011, 06:02 PM   #45
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

In the real nice diagrams above shouldn't there be a smaller fuse between the last distribution block and each compressor?
Old 03-22-2011, 06:10 PM   #46
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

this all new to me but since I have a stereo system and amps installed alread, As for the ignition switch, can I use the remote wire I have running to my amps? or where exactly do I wire it to?
Old 04-25-2011, 06:29 PM   #47
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

I'm running my wiring this weekend. Would it be ok to run 4 ga. to this from the battery without a fuse because these are the fuses ill be using. I have an 80 amp for the comps and 100 amp for my system. Or should i run a 200 amp from the battery first. I also have another dist block with two 30amp fuses, one for each compressor and i will be running 8ga to those.

Old 04-25-2011, 07:05 PM   #48
it could be lower.
 
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

mood: overwhelmed
Old 04-26-2011, 09:56 AM   #49
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Quote: Originally Posted by ridinlow
I'm running my wiring this weekend. Would it be ok to run 4 ga. to this from the battery without a fuse because these are the fuses ill be using. I have an 80 amp for the comps and 100 amp for my system. Or should i run a 200 amp from the battery first. I also have another dist block with two 30amp fuses, one for each compressor and i will be running 8ga to those.

The benefit of running the fuse as close to the battery as possible is that you have the least chance of a short and electrical fire.

If you have 6 feet of un-fused wire that leads to the back of your truck then at anywhere along there if the insulation becomes cut it will cause major problems, especially with 4ga.

If the fuse is only a foot from the battery then that is the only vulnerable part.

The risk is up to you . Personally i would do it close
Old 04-26-2011, 10:31 AM   #50
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Re: [How-to]:Complete Air-Ride Plumbing/Wiring

Right now i have a 100amp fuse by the battery will this be ok, then it is ran to the above dist block with 4 ga. Then i have 4 ga running to the my relay and 8 ga to my amp. From the relay i have 4 ga running to another dist block with two 30 amp fuses that i ran the power wires from the comps to.
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