Going To Bag. Questions/Help me through it.

[Tex Star]

First off.. '92 Ext cab s-10. Already lowered with all new stuff. 3 inch lowered leafs and blocks. Drop coils and 2 inch drop spindles. Yea, I want to go lower.

Anyways, It will be over the course of a couple months most likely, so I will have a few, a lot of questions, as I never looked into bagging because I said I would never do it....... Go figure

Already purchased 8 SMC 3/8 valves from Custom Connection.
Thinking of Front/Back only.

Front A-Arms, I am thinking Michigan metal works uppers and lowers.
uppers- http://michiganmetalworks.com/store/...&product_id=71
lowers- http://michiganmetalworks.com/store/...&product_id=92

What bags do ya'll recommend for the front???
Best place to get decent priced cups?
What are other parts needed for the front besides fittings and air line?
Will I need to notch the frame for tie rods? Running 235/55/16's
Shock mounts? Place to buy??? Need to make a notch for shocks?


I am running 16 inch chrome replica Irocs with 235/55/16's right now. I am not looking to lay frame or anything too radical. These arent too wide are they?

For the rear, I am stuck on a kit. I know I want bolt on as I do not have access to a welder at the moment.
Here is the main kit I was looking at:
http://www.kplinks.com/product.php?p...&cat=50&page=1
Has an option for SS7 bags for the rear. Recommend them or something different?
Notch, not sure if I am going weld in or bolt in yet.

Air tanks? See most are running 5 gallon and some 8-10 gallon. How many ports? Size?

Water traps? (2)
Relays?
What gauge/gauges?
I want to run two (?) switches for F/B
Misc Parts?
Compressors, going to run 2. Which Viair comps? 480's?
I have been reading and skimming through many posts, just trying to clear a few things up.

Sure I will have more questions as they come to me......

Thanks in advance.

[Dmbh09]

To start if you dont have a welder how do you plan to weld
In a notch? I would say get a 6 link from newmatics all bolt on including the notch... also ss7 for front and rear or re7 they are the same for the most part 5-8gal tank with 2 viair 480's will be fine.., 3/8 valves and line are fine... If you already got 8 smc valves you need to run f/b/s/s it will be a better ride... If your not concerned with laying frame don't buy mmw control arms save your money and buy pp ball joints... front shock relocation i think its art that has bolt on shOck relocation kits...

[90blueS10]

I vote:

Lowrider depot 4/6 link through Newmatics.
Airlift dominator 2500/2600s
2 viair 380s/480s
5 gallon tank.

The rest just depends on what you're wanting. if you want to lay etc.

For all of my air ride stuff i shop through Newmatics, gauge magazine store, waylayed, and AVS.

[illest G]

control arm choice - very good

kp 6 link - VERY good

for bag cups. call newmatics and tell them you only need upper cups. it will be cheaper than buying a full set

to lay front up front with that size tire yes you will need to notch for tie rods or get mmw no notch tie rods (had them and loved them)

you only need 1 relay for your compressors if you use a stinger 80 amp relay instead of the normal shitty 30/40 relays

for comps - yes i would run 2 viair 480s - each needing a water trap

5 gal tank is perfect - 8 ports

valves choice is good

i like avs gauges

slam specialty bags front and rear

for switch box you should run a 9 switch box. i know you only want front and rear. but with a 9 switch you will be able to control all corners individually, front together, back together, left side of truck, right side of truck, and entire truck. it makes for better ride height settling and making sure your front left isnt lower than the front right.

[gunther19820]

you better order from MMW real soon- the end of the month he is stopping production on s-10 parts.

[Tex Star]

I know what I'm ordering when I get home.
They say why they are quitting the production on them?

[Tex Star]

I called MMW today and spoke with Taylor. Asked about the S10 parts and he confirmed that it is not true. Though he did say that they will stop making the 3 piece upper arms due to time/cost. They do have budget uppers (one piece) that they may keep making. But the rest they will continue making.

Struck up a deal and I will be purchasing uppers, lowers, and notchless tie rods tomorrow.

[illest G]

awesome. i had one of the first sets of notchless tie rods from him. and had one of the first sets of uppers from him. they were great quality.

[Tex Star]

Kenny, What SS bags for the front? I'm looking on the Newmatics site. Unsure. Also, what's the difference from single to dual port? (other than another port, ha)

And is this the relay you were talking about?
http://www.newmaticsinc.com/AAMP_SR80_p/107643.htm

[90blueS10]

get re or ss 6s, single port

[illest G]

i would get ss 7s. 6s will work to though

that relay looks different from the one i use but its appears to be the same thing.

dual ports are kinda useless for a regular old bagged truck

[rstadelmaier]

stinger relays kick ass

[Tex Star]

Ordered my Uppers, Lowers, and notchless tie rods today. Having them powder coated lime green to follow the color theme.
4-6 weeks for delivery.....Kinda bums me out.

[gunther19820]

Quote: Originally Posted by Tex Star Detail

I called MMW today and spoke with Taylor. Asked about the S10 parts and he confirmed that it is not true. Though he did say that they will stop making the 3 piece upper arms due to time/cost. They do have budget uppers (one piece) that they may keep making. But the rest they will continue making.
.

I ordered my stuff with him 2 weeks ago and he told me he was stopping production on all his s-10 parts for a couple reasons... that there are too many people copying his product, and that pricing has gotten soo competitive on s-10 parts he is nearly losing money with the parts.
IDK, maybe he was referencing the budget arms I got, but it sounded like he was talking about everything.

My fault for the mis-information

[Tex Star]

Not your fault. He said the 3 piece upper arms take a lot of time and his prices are low to where he isn't making a good profit. Said he may still do budget ones...which are the ones I picked up because I'm running a smaller tire/wheel combo. He mentioned still making the more expensive ones...

How long did he say for shipping for you? I know he makes them to order too

[gunther19820]

He told me 3-6 weeks. When Gimp bought arms a couple weeks before me Taylor told him the same.
but he also told me that he shoots for 3 weeks, and feels guilty if he goes over that.

On a side note, I loved my 6's. they took a bit of pressure to get my truck up to height, but they ran down the road great

[ZEROpsi]

Just for clarification, for anyone. We will be stopping production of our 3pc upper arms for the S-Series trucks, i have not decided if we will be stopping production completely, or just stopping production to re-calibrate the price to where we feel they are worth making still, becuase currently, these arms compared to any other arm we offer, profit margins are paper thin.

We will keep producing our single piece flat plate arms, but the price will increase to reflect steel prices and production costs. The v3 lower arms of ours will also continue to be produced, as well as notchless tie rods, and as all ways the Jeebus Joint arms.

I feel fortunate to be able to do what I do every day for a living, so when i tell you a time frame, i mean it. I very very very rarely go over a quoted time frame, I can count the occasions on one hand, and i remember each of them. We typically have orders out in far under the quoted time, but occasionally it will take the full quoted time. We offer products for such a wide array of vehicles now, that its common for us to fill 30-50 control arm orders alone per week, the s10 products make up a small percentage of it, but oddly enough yield the least profit. so we are going to change our pricing structure to reflect that. Our Jeebus joint arms are priced to the point that they can compete fiscally with any comparable arm, so we are going to focus more on those, because of how popular they are, and how well they perform.

btw, this is my first post on this site in over 2 years lol, i just last month realized that i was un-banned from the forum haha.



Taylor

[gunther19820]

Quote: Originally Posted by ZEROpsi

btw, this is my first post on this site in over 2 years lol, i just last month realized that i was un-banned from the forum haha.Taylor

We still like you around here.. thats why we buy your stuff.
DW!

[Tex Star]

For sure. I have heard nothing but good stuff about MMW, which is why I trust sending my $. Was good talking in person as well!

[Tex Star]

Another question.....
Pressure switches? I'm clueless....

(Edit...I see a switch comes with the dual 480's..)

[rstadelmaier]

definitely should have one. also on a toggle switch. i currently just have a toggle switch, no pressure switch. and there's times you forget your compressor is on and realize it's pumping way above what it should be. so i would for sure run a pressure switch on the tank.

[Tex Star]

Alright....So I have a pretty dumb question..
Where does it mount? And if I am running 2 comps, do I run 2 lines to the tank, or is there a line from each comp (2) running into a single line to the tank?

Sorry for all of the dumb questions. One of these days I will look back at this thread and laugh after I get bagging down.

[illest G]

the pressure switch mounts to one of the ports on the tank.

this is mine mounted on the top port of my tank



and you run a hose from each compressor to there own ports on the tank. 2 comps =2 ports used

[baggedout81]

Take the time an check out this link.It breaks down dam near eveything your gonna need to know

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/h...-first-258384/

[Tex Star]

Yea. I've been reading over it the past few days. Just asking questions to get a few things straight.

[rstadelmaier]

[rstadelmaier]

you can run two lines to the tank or just tee them together. if theyre mounted right by the tank than you mght as well run two lines

[gunther19820]

from when I was putting mine together:

I ran one port per wheel(on the face), ran one compressor and a female quick connect (on the DS side ports), and ran a drain, and a compressor, then on the third port I tee'd for my pressure switch and a tank PSI gauge (PS side).

And I know I should have traps... havent gotten around to them yet

[blake293209]

That wrench battery hold down is cool.

[Tex Star]

Quote: Originally Posted by illest G

control arm choice - very good

kp 6 link - VERY good- Decided on a back half. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f291/f...lf-kit-496073/

for bag cups. call newmatics and tell them you only need upper cups. it will be cheaper than buying a full set

to lay front up front with that size tire yes you will need to notch for tie rods or get mmw no notch tie rods (had them and loved them) Got em along with the upper and lower control arms

you only need 1 relay for your compressors if you use a stinger 80 amp relay instead of the normal shitty 30/40 relays

for comps - yes i would run 2 viair 480s - each needing a water trap

5 gal tank is perfect - 8 ports If I decide to run train horns, should I get a bigger tank????? 1/2 inch ports I take are the norm? Water traps...one on each side of the tank where the lines from the compressors go in? Recommend any in particular?

valves choice is good

i like avs gauges- Dual needle? or single? I haven't looked into them yet nor have I any clue right now on what the dual does over the single needle. Only need to run 2 gauges total though, correct?

slam specialty bags front and rear- SS7's front AND back should be fine, correct?

for switch box you should run a 9 switch box. i know you only want front and rear. but with a 9 switch you will be able to control all corners individually, front together, back together, left side of truck, right side of truck, and entire truck. it makes for better ride height settling and making sure your front left isnt lower than the front right.- Do you have a link to one your recommend?

.....

[Atmanxxx]

YO tex ,look into edc york or sanden comps ,you would be pleased with air supply electric cant compare unless you had 4 to 6 viair pumps lmfao
A-arms and drop spindles will limit your lift ,keep this in mind .
i lay paint and get 20 untucked about 3 inches on lift ,all on factory a-arms factory spindles, factory all up front.
I love my lift becuz i drive 4wd trails sometimes
but i like to scrap paint off my body too

[Atmanxxx]

edit 2inch cups up front with ,,,RE6 up front less , cutting on frame up front. I like my frame too,re 7s you will have to cut much of it away in my opinion.lol
I am running slams 8" in back ,crazy lift outta 8s . sorry for whoreing

[beandip]

IMO i wouldnt waste time with water traps. its not very efficient when you are trying to get hot air to condensate. especially with such a short leader hose. sure some water will condense, but really not worth it.

[Tex Star]

So I am going to go FBSS. Need a switch box. What's the difference in the 9 to 10 switch box. (besides the obvious)

[Tex Star]

this right?

[2003Xtreme]

I am almost positive the difference is... the 9 switch like the above^^ the center bottom is a pancake switch which does all valves up one way and all valves down the other way.. that make sense? then on a 10 switch.. the 10th switch makes the truck flip flop ( as I call it) the front goes up while the back dumps.. opposite way the back goes up and the front goes down. I think... lol

[cruisinlows10]

I realize you already ordered notchless tie rods for your 235/55/16's , I did not have to notch my frame for 225/55/16's so you may not have to for 235's. However to get my truck to lay out I did have to massage the firewall at the very top of the wheel arch.

[Tex Star]

Quote: Originally Posted by 2003Xtreme

I am almost positive the difference is... the 9 switch like the above^^ the center bottom is a pancake switch which does all valves up one way and all valves down the other way.. that make sense? then on a 10 switch.. the 10th switch makes the truck flip flop ( as I call it) the front goes up while the back dumps.. opposite way the back goes up and the front goes down. I think... lol

I see what you are saying. I just figured the middle was the pancake. Though, I guess it can be wired any way??
I just wanted to see if what I typed out was correct, regardless of order?
If that makes sense...

Quote: Originally Posted by cruisinlows10

I realize you already ordered notchless tie rods for your 235/55/16's , I did not have to notch my frame for 225/55/16's so you may not have to for 235's. However to get my truck to lay out I did have to massage the firewall at the very top of the wheel arch.

Dang....everyone told me I would need the tierods. I'm not sure my tires will tuck, as I have 1/4" spacers up front as well. I bought the rims and tires before I knew I was going to bag. Seems like the front is more confusing thatn the back for me.

[2003Xtreme]

Well you are kinda right.. all 9 switches work as a momentary switch.. the rock back and forth front and back SO... what you have labeled as drivers front.. it is actually the switch to work the up and down of truck.. what you have as rear up.. is also rear down too. a two way switch.. the one you got labeled as 4 corners up is a full up and down motion.. that help?

[Tex Star]

Yea, I was too lazy to put "up and down"

[cruisinlows10]

My wheels are 16x8 with 4.5 bs and just barely tuck. I had to trim the inside fender lips both front and rear. I also had to grind the ends of the tierod ends flat so they wouldn't hit the wheel/tire when layed out.

[2003Xtreme]

lol well i didn't know you understood that.. haha otherwise looks like you got it right then.

[Tex Star]

Quote: Originally Posted by cruisinlows10

My wheels are 16x8 with 4.5 bs and just barely tuck. I had to trim the inside fender lips both front and rear. I also had to grind the ends of the tierod ends flat so they wouldn't hit the wheel/tire when layed out.

Thats the reason I'm running a 1/4 inch spacer. The inner lip of the wheel rubbed the tie rod. I think I may get smaller tires.

Quote: Originally Posted by 2003Xtreme

lol well i didn't know you understood that.. haha otherwise looks like you got it right then.

Good deal. Now another dumb question...the box wires into the solenoids, correct? And of course a 12v and ground?

[90blueS10]

Yep. 12v, ground, and to each of the valve solenoids.

[Tex Star]

[2003Xtreme]

some people have issues with this, but I NEVER have.. to clean up your wiring, I have always took the ground wire to the valve and crimped on a fork terminal connect and mounted it under one of the screws on the valve. works great and that will be 8 less wires you will have to deal with.

[Tex Star]

And basically, a 7 switch box does the same as the 9 switches, minus the side to side?

[90blueS10]

You so smart.

[Tex Star]

LOL, I try

[90blueS10]