failed welds on 4 link ect.

[racer304]

i have been wondering what does it look like to have a failed weld on a four link if any one has pics that would helps. so if you got a story tell us. thanks

[90blueS10]

Not enough penetration

too much penetration

welds are inconsistent "aka the birdshit effect"

an epileptic welded them.

[racer304]

have you had it happen to you? pics would be cool

[90blueS10]

everybody makes shitty welds at first. It takes practice. just grab some scrap steel and go to town.

this is a good looking weld. it should look like overlapped dimes



this is a bird shit weld

[Daybood]

that'd be chicken poop!

[90blueS10]

the key to a good weld is clean metal and the right settings.

i cant stress enough the clean metal part.

[BlackEsDime]

Quote: Originally Posted by 90blueS10

That "looks" pretty good, but it actually apears to be a cold weld. If you look at it from a profile view (towards the opposite end of the axle) It is round and sticks up somewhat. Probably trying to run thick metal on a 110v welder in a single pass. A real general rule of thumb is the weld should be as big as the metal is thick... if that makes since.

here's a quick one if found in my photobucket.

If you look, it lays flat. This shows good penetration.

[ThorRacing01]

Sorry to whore but I didn't find a need to start a new thread.

I dont really have the chicken shit look. But when i go to weld the actual weld bead is real pouris, but looks like good heat. If you stay to long it gets burn thru.

Anybody know what causes this?

I'm using a miller 220volt with 75% arigon 25% CO2.

[motivated!97]

dirty metal

[AVTekk]

Thor it sounds like your metal is dirty or your mix is contaminated or youre using the wrong type of wire. A standard ER70S6 wire, clean 75/25 mix set around 20psi, and clean metal, even hotrolled metal, will weld without porosity.

Quote:

As BlackEsDime stated, this is a poor weld. There is very little or no penetration as you can see how high the weld is sitting from the side, but mostly because there is no HAZ marks at all. Also see how there is the orange /yellow hazing across the entire weld except for the last bead? Thats because this is most likely a series of tack welds done in succession to make it look nice, and the haze is from the shielding gas collecting on the cooling metal. As you can see from BlackEsDime's picture, the bead is clean the whole way until the bead was stopped. Also you can see the HAZ on the clean metal on the bottom left, there is none on the above pic.

[IRSd_mini]

A pretty weld isnt always a strong weld. With a 110v mig it is real easy to lay down a nice looking weld, with not much penetration.

[ThorRacing01]

Thanks AV and Motivated- That's what i was thinking but not having a lot of welding experience I always question my wire speed and heat.

Also what do you guys clean your metal with prior to welding it? Do i actually need a liquid metal cleaner? If so could you guys let me know what one to pick up.

Thanks

[iLLblazer]

if you are MIG welding all you need to do is take a grinder or flap disc to the area and remove all the rust or paint where you are welding.

[AVTekk]

agreed, no need to clean it any more than grinding. if you were TIGing, then youll want it as clean as possible, and thats where a liquid cleaner may come into play.

[IRSd_mini]

And if you choose a liquid cleaner, watch what you use. Also goes for degreasers when cleaning really dirty parts before welding. Some will give off nasty fumes. And for days after use too. I used to use a brake cleaner in my shop that had clorine in it. Worked great for cleaning stuff... First time I welded something that had been cleaned with it, There was no more using that brand. The fumes were just to strong. I will only clean using something water soluible, and the grind/ sand from there.

[90blueS10]

Yeah the picture was a bad example. but its the fastest one i found on google.

[Shev]

Quote: Originally Posted by IRSd_mini

And if you choose a liquid cleaner, watch what you use. Also goes for degreasers when cleaning really dirty parts before welding. Some will give off nasty fumes. And for days after use too. I used to use a brake cleaner in my shop that had clorine in it. Worked great for cleaning stuff... First time I welded something that had been cleaned with it, There was no more using that brand. The fumes were just to strong. I will only clean using something water soluible, and the grind/ sand from there.

Brake cleaner bad...way bad...

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

[JoPre]

wow good info to know.... the brake cleaner thing... some good info on welds too.

[low86blazer]

Quote: Originally Posted by 90blueS10

the key to a good weld is clean metal and the right settings.

i cant stress enough the clean metal part.

technique, you forgot technique.

[BlackEsDime]

you can get non-chlorinated brake cleaner that doesn't put off nasty fumes.

[Ozzy_666]

im suprised to see that no one else menchind this. technique is just as important as have a clean surface, good psi, good gas mix, clean surface

o and a helmet so ut not blinded n can see whear to draw ur beed to

[tyson_cbr]

i was really pushed in college to learn to setup the machines, as my teacher said anyone can run a nice bead with a machine thats already setup, so spend some time learning to setup your voltage and wire speed settings. Most of all have fun dont let it get you worked up cause god knows welding has pissed me off a time or two! lol Im by know means a pro or anything either im still a rookie welder and its just all about puttin time in.

[tyson_cbr]

Oh and check this site out, http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/index.html

[SoloSDN]

Quote: Originally Posted by 90blueS10

everybody makes shitty welds at first. It takes practice. just grab some scrap steel and go to town.

this is a good looking weld. it should look like overlapped dimes



this is a bird shit weld

just because it looks like "stacked dimes" doesnt mean its a good weld.

i just wanted to point that out for people on here that are havin someone else weld there stuff. alot of beginners mis-interpret that whole statement,thinkin a weld looks good then 2 months down the road it snaps. ive seen it happen lol.

heres a non "stacked dimes" weld that i did on 99sdimes truck,good example of a stong weld that doesnt look "pretty" to some people. notice the HAZ like Dave mentioned in his post. might be a little big.

[83blazerlaynframe]

Quote: Originally Posted by DFitty

heres a non "stacked dimes" weld that i did on 99sdimes truck,good example of a stong weld that doesnt look "pretty" to some people. notice the HAZ like Dave mentioned in his post. might be a little big.

Thats a nice lookin weld lol.

LOTS of heat but not burnt through either. steady heat patterns. I would trust this on my truck.

[erieinksdime91]

^^^ I second that notion^^^

[AVTekk]

Looks like a nice solid weld to me, not ugly at all.

[Ericaikens]

heres my D1.2 test i took at work

[jloly]

can you explain the d1.2 test?

[Ericaikens]

its for bridge welding, and it 2 1" plates, bevel on one square on the other with a backer bar and you have to weld it horizontal.

[racer304]

well this is some intersting shit guys. i had a dude weld my stuff and its all good