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Asking the Bagged Experts

7K views 103 replies 16 participants last post by  tohoopty 
#1 ·
Im no expert, at all, and this is a new journey for me.
I have a 91 S10 extended cab, as per the picture. I am going to bag it soon, and need advice/input.
My goal is to have the simplest setup that is functional and looks good. I dont want any 6 links or crazy packages since Im on a learning curve here. I want to be able to do most of the work myself (I have a guy who welds when needed).

Just looking for what people think I should get. Thanks for any help.

 
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#2 ·
U need some type of link system for your suspension to function properly.

Your best bet is gonna be to read ALOT and buy a bolt on kit.
 
#3 ·
If you want simple go with a 3 link and bag over axle set-up. Modify stock arms with super travel ball joints and go with a simple valve set-up. If it were me I'd do atleast 1 fill and 2 dumps for the front and back so you could level out.
 
#4 ·
Gotta have check valves to make that work and by the time you buy 4 check valves you could have bought the extra 2 valves. But I totally agree that you need more than 2 valves per end, that crap ain't safe it encourages body roll.

What your best options are completely depends on your price range. If you are looking to do a nice job and spend a medium size amount of doll hairs, I would recommend a Thor bros 3 link for the back. For the front get some bolt in upper bag cups and a decent set of aftermarket control arms. You could modify your stock arms, but unless you have a reasonable amount of metal fab experience I'd recommend just buying a set. Bag brands and sizes are up to you. Bigger bags ride softer and require less pressure to lift the truck, smaller bags fit in smaller areas and offer a higher spring rate. Sleeve bags are another option for the rear, read up on those too. RUN SHOCKS ON THE FRONT AND REAR. Some people will tell you that they don't run shocks and it's fine. Those people are liars. I've made that mistake before, and when I hit a pot hole it could get pretty scary. Air management is up to you. Some people want an engine driven compressor, some are fine with electric, some want a huge air tank, some want just enough. As I already stated, run an 8 valve set up, it's the right way to do things. Best advice I can give you is to do your own research, decide what you want to do, do it, and do it right. Don't cut corners like most of us did on our first bag job. Quality parts and quality work will make a dependable truck.
 
#9 ·
I think so. I'd recommend looking for used control arms, they pop up fairly regularly in the classifieds here on the forum. Thor bros/SD arms are sold with options for swaybar and shock mounts but were running six months behind on production last I heard. Depending on your overall tire diameter you may have to tub the firewall in order to lay.
 
#6 ·
Nice truck! How in-depth you have to get depends on how you want your bags to perform. Manual valves are the cheapest, most straight forward setup. But also slower lift and drop. Electric valves: four for the front 2 fill/2 dump, rear can either be 1/1 tee'd to each bag, or 2/2 if you want to hit sides. Air line size dictates system speed, as well as tank pressure (regulated by pressure switch).

If your not trying to lay frame, front cups and bags are enough and rear notching isn't necessary. If you are looking to lay it out, (depending on wheel size) you'll need to research into new control arms, relocating things under the hood, frame notching, and rear links. Good luck mate!
 
#8 ·
I originally had manual paddle valves with 1/4" line. It was okay, but exhausts out the back of the switch into the dash, which gets old (loud venting of compressed air). I think the little larrys run larger ports, plus an exhaust port that could be plumbed outside. Might be your speed. Check with Welder on this forum. He just changed his.
 
#13 ·
well tomorrow the truck goes up on blocks and the start of the bagging process begins. One of the reasons Im parking it now is my leaf springs are doing that thing where they get inverted (for lack of technical term) and I dont consider that too safe. So I feel its best to park it and do the bags over the long term. Im just buying a piece here and there til I have it all.
 
#17 ·
Another canadian option for you is http://www.airassisted.ca/osc/
They have parts most of us have used and heard of, as well as owners that are, or were at least, members here. That place you linked has a bunch of parts I have never heard of, except some of thier valves. And those were parts I would not use.
 
#20 ·
Another canadian option for you is http://www.airassisted.ca/osc/
They have parts most of us have used and heard of, as well as owners that are, or were at least, members here. That place you linked has a bunch of parts I have never heard of, except some of thier valves. And those were parts I would not use.

excellent thanks for the advice---I will order from airassisted instead.
 
#21 ·
here come some questions:

whats the better move, fuel cell or blazer gas tank?
no stock crossmember can be used for 4 link?
what is "ride height" determined by (as per installing 4 link)
Ive decided Im going with this Little Larrys manual valve setup as it seems good for someone like me who is a little dim with wiring, etc. Thoughts?
Can I use the stock control arms to begin with, and if so do they need cups or do bags go right in there?
Will a 3 gallon tank with 1 compressor work (since Im not looking for anything really fast and want simple)?
 
#22 ·
here come some questions:

what is "ride height" determined by (as per installing 4 link)
Wherever you're comfortable driving.

Ive decided Im going with this Little Larrys manual valve setup as it seems good for someone like me who is a little dim with wiring, etc. Thoughts?
Manuals are cool, but wiring isn't hard. Every circuit(valve) has a power and a ground. Write down a color chart for the wires to keep it straight and slow down.

Can I use the stock control arms to begin with, and if so do they need cups or do bags go right in there?
Stock arms require a lower cup to go where the spring used to sit. Every bag needs an upper cup.

Will a 3 gallon tank with 1 compressor work (since Im not looking for anything really fast and want simple)?
Go 5 gallon. You'll be happier getting a few lifts before the comp kicks in.
 
#24 ·
Skippy- I currently have a fuel cell and you would be fine with one as well but make sure you get one that can take a stock pump. Mine uses an inline pump in the frame rail and I hate it! I'm currently collecting parts to change to a 2 door blazer tank, so imo I'd go with the blazer tank but a cell is fine too, kind of up to you!
 
#26 ·
If you don't mind spending a little extra change you can get the accuair vu4 valve. It has one multiwire plug on it designed to work with either their switch speed or e level setup, but there's a company selling switch boxes that plug right into it as well. You should only have to wire a power and a ground.

Edit: it's AVS that sells it and its actually an adapter harness that goes between their switch box and the vu4.

http://www.avsontheweb.com/product.php?productid=2494&cat=488&page=1
 
#28 ·
just so I dont waste anyones time typing answers, I will 100% be going with the Little Larry's manual valve setup. I find it pretty cool and "up my alley". Also going with slam specialties bags, 5 gallon aluminum tank.

Im going to go with Viair compressor, but would love advice as to whether to run 1 bigger or 2, or what is best way?
 
#29 ·
That depends on how you plan to use your system. Are you going to be "hittin' switches" at every stop light? If so get 2 bigger compressors and a bigger tank. If you plan to air up, drive where you're going and air down when you get there, then one compressor and a 5 gallon tank should be fine.
 
#31 ·
I've always ran 2 compressors and would personally recommend running 2 for anyone. I've been in situations were 1 of my compressors went down but I was able to get home because the other was still working. Nothing more frustrating then the truck on the ground and having to rig it to get it somewhere to fix it. I'm running 2 Viair 400's right now and would recommend them!
 
#33 ·
check valves and one comp and you'll be fine then. also depending on what tank you do get alot of time's you have ports you don't use that you plug, do yourself a favor and plumb a shradder valve in one of those ports. if your comp ever goes down for whatever reason you can air up your truck and tank from any place you can fill your tire. may help you one day down the road and it doesn't cost much more then a brass plug.
 
#37 ·
I always put on a schrader valve. It is just a few extra fittings and a little air line. I use the kind that have a ptc connection on one end, and put them somewhere out of the way, but still easy to get to.
And I also use them to hook shop air up to when playing with the bags in the shop.
 
#39 ·
On my first bagged truck I stuck the schraeder thru one of the license plate bolt holes. Real simple, right at the back of the truck, easy to get to.

I always recommend one five gallon tank and one big compressor. A viair 400 or bigger. If the fill time ends up not being as fast as you like, it is easy to add a second comp. If you dont play with your switches, 5 gallons of air is plenty. My last bagged truck had a three gallon tank. And my current street rod has a 1.7 gallon tank.
I dont believe in the theory that if you add a second comp you need to upgrade your charging system. Viair lists the max amp draw of a 480 at 23 amps, and 480 dual pack at 44 amps. If your charging system cant handle 44 amps for a few minutes at a time, you dont need to upgrade it, you just need to fix it.
 
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