ABS Removal For Bags?

[temporalvortex]

If i just remove the ABS control module on the drivers fender. And and just tee off the lines to the front and connect the lines to the back. Already has a proportioning valve installed. Will this cause the truck not to crank? Or just throw codes and cause the ABS light to trip on the dash panel? Any help would be greatly appreciated...

[1baggeds10]

i got ABS light on with my 2001,still started though

[nAu HaVoC]

http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=abs_removal.php&dir=d rivetrain

[NickZigaitis]

FYI for you.

The stock oem combination valve is just that, a combination valve. It is stock adjusted for bias. Meaning its not adjustable. Bias was controlled mainly in the abs unit. The combination valve is called a combination valve because there is a metering valve within it. On the front and rear brakes is a residual pressure valve. The font has a 2psi RPV and the rear has a 10psi RPV. They look and resemble a union fitting. On the front brake circuit, it is located on the line coming from the combination valve port closes to the booster. On the rear circuit, (the port fartherest from the booster) the RPV is located on the line on the frame rail just under the firewall. If you remove the abs, your vehicle will start. There are several ways that MIGHT reduce the likely hood from the ABS light coming on.

1) Pull all fusing for the abs from the underhood fuse box.

2) Disconnect the purple datalink wire from the datalink center under the dash. The datalink center leads to the diagnotics plug in port for reviewing codes

3) Disconnect the abs wiring from the ECM and remove the plugs from the engine harness.

CAUTION: There is a wire (purple) from the Cruise control module to the ABS unit. This data wire tell the Cruise control to turn off when the brake pedal is tapped; ultimately when the ABS unit is activated. The ABS unit is always active when the ignition is on. However, it only functions when parameters are triggered to function the ABS pulsing.

BE AWARE, when removing the ABS unit, the cruise control might not turn off simply by tapping the brake pedal. You might still have to turn off the cruise control manually from the trim pot on the steering column.

ALSO BE AWARE, removing the abs unit and brake line coils under it might inadvertantly remove the RPV from the front brakes. THIS MUST be replaced to prevent gobbs of air into the system. Also, replacing the combination valve off the master cylinder with a proportioning valve (there is a difference) WILL require the replacement of the metering valve.




Metering Valve
The metering valve section of the combination valve is required on cars that have disc brakes on the front wheels and drum brakes on the rear wheels. If you have read How Disc Brakes Works and How Drum Brakes Work, you know that the disc brake pad is normally in contact with the disc, while the drum brake shoes are normally pulled away from the drum. Because of this, the disc brakes are in a position to engage before the drum brakes when you push the brake pedal down.
The metering valve compensates for this, making the drum brakes engage just before the disc brakes. The metering valve does not allow any pressure to the disc brakes until a threshold pressure has been reached. The threshold pressure is low compared to the maximum pressure in the braking system, so the drum brakes just barely engage before the disc brakes kick in. Having the rear brakes engage before the front brakes provides a lot more stability during braking. Applying the rear brakes first helps keep the car in a straight line, much like the rudder helps a plane fly in straight line.

A better pic showing the valve layout of the combo valve and master cylinder.



READ THIS ARTICLE. Informative.

http://www.classicperform.com/ShopTalk/2/ShopTalk-2.htm

Picture of After market Wilwood RPV, Your stock one will look simply like a brass union fitting, BUT, its not.



__________________________________________________ _____________

Classic Performance Parts has a master cylinder which contains ALLLLLL the valving in it. This means the:
Metering valve
2psi and 10psi RPV
Isolation valve
2 Proportioning valves
Brake pressure proportioning valve.

You can adjust for max brakes at all 4 tires of what ever adjustment you want. This MC containes everything so all you have to do is attach brake lines to it and you're good to go.
Really cleans everything up.



Here is how it looks installed on the S10. This is mine. Bleeding is a little difficult but it will solve all your ABS removal woes.



Hope this helps you guys out in understanding everything.

This is the schematic of my brakes including parts a fittings lists and where they go, at least on my ride.

WARNING: It is HIGHLY recommended by any fittings manufacturer that you should stick with the same brand of fitting through out the brake circuits to ensure the milling of the 37* tapper to the flare is the same for all fittings.

[97bagdS10]

i took everything out and went with hydrobooster, and my abs light still isnt on lol

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97bagdS10

i took everything out and went with hydrobooster, and my abs light still isnt on lol

Took everything out, as in cutting all the plugs for the ABS out or what? I'm curious so i know if I throw an ABS code this weekend when i fire it up for the first time in 4 months.

[97bagdS10]

i didnt cut any plugs off, i just stashed them uner the fender and above the wheel well. fits nicely

[blazed00]

my abs wires ripped out when I did the front of mine about 8 months ago and I havent worried bout fixin it cause it brakes fine.

[DailyDrivenDime]

i need to remove mine....its the only thing stopping me from pulling my inners

[s10frank]

I have a 1999 chevy s10 that i am putting 20's on and i wanted to get rid of my abs brakes can anybody tell me step by step on how to remove them ,and do i have to tub my firewall the truck is bagged not bodydroped if anyone can let me know it would help thanks frank...?

[Xtreme03]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm interested in the CPP MCPV-1...what bore should I get? I'll be running the new Z06 6-piston calipers up front and eventually the 4-piston rear. Would it be worth changing to a hydroboost setup?

[baysick68]

my abs light is on and the truck brakes fine and i am notched, and bagged the light flickers on for a while and turns off.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by Xtreme03

I know this is an old thread, but I'm interested in the CPP MCPV-1...what bore should I get? I'll be running the new Z06 6-piston calipers up front and eventually the 4-piston rear. Would it be worth changing to a hydroboost setup?

1 1/8" bore. More fluid moved for every inch the pedal is pressed = greater pressure potential.

[toolow67]

i cant find the mcpv-1 on the website...can anyone help?

[tubbie]

i have a question about the factory rpv valves, i removed all hard but the one that goes under the engine cradle to passenger side front soft line. i ran all new lines from prop valve to wheels what would the brakes do with the removal of rpv valves

[xtucking22s]

wow this thread is gonna be very useful to me very soon. awesome diagram nick!

*bookmarked*

[Xtreme03]

Quote: Originally Posted by toolow67

i cant find the mcpv-1 on the website...can anyone help?

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/..._Cylinders.htm

[2WHEELERCUSTOMS]

As far as actually removing the ABS itself. Does it actually unplug from the wiring harness or do you have to cut the wires? I haven't gotten so far as to actually removing it yet. At this point in the game I am collecting parts for this adventure. I do know that the MCPV-1 sounds mighty tasty!

[Twin-10s]

all the wires unplug, no cutting required.

[2WHEELERCUSTOMS]

Quote: Originally Posted by Twin-10s

all the wires unplug, no cutting required.

Thanks for the reply!

[eclpsmtsbsh]

do they still make the mcpv-1? the closest I can find is the mcpvu2