angled blocks vs reg blocks

[Sipolt89]

im doin a 6 inch drop in the back and i got 3 inch leafs and 2 inch blocks but im gonna drop another inch and cut the bump stops like halfway out. my question is whats the dif beetween angled 3 inch and reg 3inch.i know its got a slight angle but does it make a difference? and if so what does it do.i got a 97 reg cab

[mechanicix]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sipolt89

im doin a 6 inch drop in the back and i got 3 inch leafs and 2 inch blocks but im gonna drop another inch and cut the bump stops like halfway out. my question is whats the dif beetween angled 3 inch and reg 3inch.i know its got a slight angle but does it make a difference? and if so what does it do.i got a 97 reg cab

Angled blocks are used to change your pinion angle so the driveshaft doesn't get thrown off balance and vibrate.

[Sipolt89]

Quote: Originally Posted by mechanicix

Angled blocks are used to change your pinion angle so the driveshaft doesn't get thrown off balance and vibrate.

so would they be better than?would it make a difference in ride height?theyre both the sam eprice so im just deciding what one to get

[Rhotpursuit]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sipolt89

so would they be better than?would it make a difference in ride height?theyre both the sam eprice so im just deciding what one to get

1. Yes...unless you don't mind the vibration and ensuing carnage. Drop the driveline before you do the drop. If it won't go back in, get it shortened.

2. No

Take the entire bumpstop and bracket out.

[terryl]

You may not need angled blocks. The only way to know what you need is to do the drop and then measure the operating angles at each end of your drive shaft. If they match you are ok.

If your drive shaft is bottoming out in your tranny after the drop, you can add setback plates under the blocks to gain 1/2" more clearance. A lot cheaper the having the shaft shortened.

[dngrous_dime]

buy the non-tapered blocks, and be ready to order shims to correct the angle if it's off.

[Rhotpursuit]

Quote: Originally Posted by terryl

You may not need angled blocks. The only way to know what you need is to do the drop and then measure the operating angles at each end of your drive shaft. If they match you are ok.

If your drive shaft is bottoming out in your tranny after the drop, you can add setback plates under the blocks to gain 1/2" more clearance. A lot cheaper the having the shaft shortened.

If they match they are not ok...You need a little angle to ensure needle bearing rotation in the u-joint. Setback plates may work, but 1/2 inch may not be enough. The original u-joints are probably still in there and are probably due for a change. Shortening a d/s isn't that bad and in the long run you won't grenade the tranny and you get new joints....but to each his own..

[terryl]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rhotpursuit

If they match they are not ok...You need a little angle to ensure needle bearing rotation in the u-joint. Setback plates may work, but 1/2 inch may not be enough. The original u-joints are probably still in there and are probably due for a change. Shortening a d/s isn't that bad and in the long run you won't grenade the tranny and you get new joints....but to each his own..

I agree that 1 degree off would be ideal for lubrication. On the shaft, if 1/2" is enough, it would be much cheaper. He needs 3/4" between the tranny and yoke when at ride height. Any less could cause the problems. If the joints are not bad, don't replace. If they are, then replace. Simple.

[dngrous_dime]

Quote: Originally Posted by terryl

I agree that 1 degree off would be ideal for lubrication. On the shaft, if 1/2" is enough, it would be much cheaper. He needs 3/4" between the tranny and yoke when at ride height. Any less could cause the problems. If the joints are not bad, don't replace. If they are, then replace. Simple.

If you've got it all apart, I'd go ahead and change them. They're only like $5 each. On the other hand, if your vise is a piece of shit that likes to launch sockets across the shop, causing the bearing caps to drop needle bearings on the floor, then you might wanna just let it be until they DO go bad.

[terryl]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rhotpursuit

If they match you are not ok...You need a little angle to ensure needle bearing rotation in the u-joint. Setback plates may work, but 1/2 inch may not be enough. The original u-joints are probably still in there and are probably due for a change. Shortening a d/s isn't that bad and in the long run you won't grenade the tranny and you get new joints....but to each his own..

After reading this again, I disagree. If the two operating angles match you are OK. Rhotpursuit you are confusing operating angles matching to operating angles being 0.

If you have, for example, an operating angle of 3 degrees for the tranny to shaft and an operating angle of 3 degrees for the shaft to the pinion, then it is perfect and will be lubricated because no one operating angle is 0. If an operating angle between two components is 0, then no lubrication.

You need at least one degree operating angle between any two components. The angle causes the second component to speed up and slow down, thus forcing these grease to move around in the joint.