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pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

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Old 03-24-2008, 02:12 AM   #1
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pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

As all the pieces come together for my v8 swap, I noticed that the distributor will be close enough to the firewall that changing the intake manifold will probably be tricky.

So, I went ahead and checked if there was a reliable line of superchargers that I can pickup dinged and get this 350 blown from the beginning. Turns out yes, I can afford a 671 blower even if I have to have it rebuilt sooner than later.

I have the pulley setup from both engines, the V belt from the 350 going in and the serpentine from the 4.3 coming out. Up until I considered the blower, I was planning on transferring the 4.3's serpentine setup over to the 350. The 350 didn't have a compressor so going to the Vbelt will require some work to get the 4.3's AC compressor in place or I'll have to purchase a suitable compressor and mounts.

I'm using 2 Cadillac pusher fans, so the engine can occupy all the space up to the stock radiator location.

Which setup will be more friendly for the blower (the serpentine or the Vbelt)?
Can I run it all off of one serpentine?
What kind/length of snout should I be looking for - any sources?
Are there any build threads that I'm not turning up in search that have already addressed these questions - how is this typicaly done?
Will I need a short water pump - I have a new standard one sitting in the box at the shop ready to install?

This is my first experience with an engine swap.

Last edited by joseph; 03-24-2008 at 02:15 AM.
Old 03-24-2008, 02:14 AM   #2
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Here is a pic of the supercharger I'm looking at - will need covers, the intake manifold, the carb adapter plate, and the snout/pulley:
Old 03-25-2008, 02:00 AM   #3
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

really guys, any guesses are welcome

even if you only know a little about these 671's, it is probably more than me

....

PLEEEEEAAAASEEE! do it for the newbie
Old 03-25-2008, 02:11 AM   #4
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

not many people (if any) have really done that on here, you might have some luck posting the v8/lsx sections.
Old 03-25-2008, 10:22 AM   #5
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

You should go with the Weiand 142/177 line of blowers as opposed to that big ole 671. The smaller blowers work with the serpentine belts rather than a huge cog system.
Old 03-25-2008, 05:49 PM   #6
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

thanks for the replies. I'm actually pretty committed to the 671 now as it looks like I've got the auction wrapped up - who can complain about a $250 671!

I've been thrashing google and have figured out that the "cog" style fits on in front of the existing serpentine as long as there is room.

Still don't have measurements though or know exactly what clearance I'll have between my serpentine and the radiator once everything is in place.

I'm not sure how to cross post, but will put a link in a new post on the v8 forum to this thread.
Old 03-27-2008, 04:38 PM   #7
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

I would research the rebuilding process on the 6-71 as that will probably suck quick a few $$$ from your budget. It doesn't take a lot of damage to ruin a 6-71 case. May be cheaper to go new in the long run.
Old 03-27-2008, 08:51 PM   #8
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

thanks for the heads up. I found a rebuild kit for $70 that covers bearing and seals. Beyond that there is a deeper style rebuild that I can eventually ship off and do for $7-800: http://www.goodvibesracing.com/superchargers_usa1.htm

to keep everone updated, the engine has now been painted and I have the following parts en route:
671 blower $255 ebay
front blower cover $25 ebay
Weiand Intake Manifold $310 summit
pressure relief block $50 summit
serpentine accessory pulley $80 march performance
gaskets 2 sets of intake and blower gaskets $54 summit

still await measurements before ordering the nose drive
still need:
idler pulley and bracket
cog pulleys
belt
carburetor plate
to put my foot on the floor

Last edited by joseph; 03-27-2008 at 08:53 PM.
Old 03-27-2008, 10:03 PM   #9
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

carburetor adapter plate $110 hallspeedshop
Old 03-28-2008, 01:52 AM   #10
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

2 quick notes and one standing question:

1) The serpentine accessory pulley that allows me to use the 4.3 setup is made for a different mounting distance than the original, so I will have to get a plate made up at a local machine shop. The shop that is doing the swap for me knows a guy so this should be quick painless and cheap.

2) With this setup, I'll be able to easily switch to 2 carburetors down the road by purchasing another $50-150 carb plate, unlike most of the other superchargers in the current generation.

Now my primary hope is that I won't have to work a miracle to make all this fit behind the radiator - does anyone have a measurement for the clearance to the radiator with a v8 swap that utilizes the stock 4.3 serpentine setup?
Old 03-29-2008, 02:48 AM   #11
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

I have the intake manifold in hand - very sexy.

Shopping continued today:
sunpro boost gauge +/-30 $15 Amazon.com
Old 03-29-2008, 03:01 PM   #12
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Call Craig Railsback at BDS in Whittier,CA .Have him send you a catalog.It will save you more headaches than you could possibly imagine. I've been playin' with 6:71 and 8:71 blowers on every street machine and street rod that I've owned. What you have there is a setup that is going to cause you many problems.That blower is set up to turn only 3,000 rpms. you need it to turn 6000 to 10,000 by using different pulleys.The number of teeth on each pulley will determine how long the belt should be.You will be FAR-FAR ahead if you buy a complete kit.Buy EVERYTHING from him.Then mash you gas! Have clean shorts on!!
Old 03-29-2008, 10:57 PM   #13
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by bigtars
Call Craig Railsback at BDS in Whittier,CA .Have him send you a catalog.It will save you more headaches than you could possibly imagine. I've been playin' with 6:71 and 8:71 blowers on every street machine and street rod that I've owned. What you have there is a setup that is going to cause you many problems.That blower is set up to turn only 3,000 rpms. you need it to turn 6000 to 10,000 by using different pulleys.The number of teeth on each pulley will determine how long the belt should be.You will be FAR-FAR ahead if you buy a complete kit.Buy EVERYTHING from him.Then mash you gas! Have clean shorts on!!
Thanks, but note from my purchase list, that I'm pretty committed to the path I'm on. The only thing I haven't bid on or ordered is the nose drive and the belt which needs measurements.

Keep in mind too, that I'm fighting cancer and don't have an endless budget while I do from time to time feel well enough to devote 5 minutes to research which leads me to get the most competitive price - BDS will probably be where I turn for the deep rebuild if vibrations get bad enough and I keep blowing bearings.

Budgetwise, for instance, I paid $600 for the Jasper rebuilt engine with 10k on it. The most expensive item has been the nv3500 tranny. Do you typically opt for the "worn in" option or a custom built engine when you setup your blowers?

According to the graphs here: http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/techcharts.php to get 5lbs of boost I'll have to run a 5% underdrive, so given the weight of the s10 and the flavor of the local patrol, almost all the time the blower will be seeing under 3,000 rpms. That plus the fact that I'm rebuilding and overhauling the blower - including all bearings is what I'm putting my hope in as I cross my fingers ever more firmly and press on. Is this chart incorrect? How many pounds of boost are you running?

Lastly and maybe most importantly, keep in mind that I'm going to be running a very tried and true water/alcohol and optionally methanol injection system at the carb, so I don't have much of a worry about heat build up in an old blower either. After running water on my 454, I know that this also allows me to not worry about backfiring if my stock carb runs a little too ean. Do you run intercoolers or something like this?

Last edited by joseph; 03-29-2008 at 11:10 PM.
Old 03-30-2008, 04:15 PM   #14
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Also I forgot to tell you that there has to be some machining on the blower case itself-rotor clearance is critical- the gears must be timed and pinned-clearances must be changed,etc. the blower drive itself (Snout length-pulley width- 2"--3"-- 1/2" pitch-8mm pitch-10mm pitch- pulley diameters-total tooth count etc. must be figured.)I sold my 1970 SS 468 bigblock with a 6:71 a few years ago. I just sold my 32 Ford ProStreet with a 517 Donavan with an 8:71. You were asking about heat in the blower itself-it ain't gonna happen. If all parts are compatable you could let the motor idle until it ran out of gas and it would not get past 180 degrees. Correctly setup carbs are critical-there are many channels and orifices that must be modified.Compression ratio-no more than 9 to1----less than 9 to 1 is much better. Theres so much more-camshaft selection-torque converter-gear ratio--all are critical!!! Don't buy a cam just because you read about in a magazine or you can get a good deal on one. I've seen guys with blower motors with cams in them that,I swear was purchased by the foot,yet the car wouldn't go around the block without stumbling,coughing ,and popping like a popcorn machine. One cannot just bolt a blower on and drive.This is a totally different animal that can be extremely difficult to tame.
Old 03-30-2008, 08:24 PM   #15
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by bigtars
Also I forgot to tell you that there has to be some machining on the blower case itself-rotor clearance is critical- the gears must be timed and pinned-clearances must be changed,etc. the blower drive itself (Snout length-pulley width- ...
Perhaps it will make more sense when I have it in front of me, but what is meant by timing the gears? maybe just making sure that the blades aren't grinding?

Where/what is the pinned clearance that has to be changed?
Old 03-30-2008, 09:38 PM   #16
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

You are right with the pinning of the gears.This will keep the gears AND rotors in sync. Clearances are critical. You are using a component that uses diesel fuel as a lubricant(excellant lube) and changing to a fuel that is not. Gasoline has very limited use as a lube. If you use methanol(which is a corrosive)this alters the entire complexity of the rotating mass. Oh,by the way,do not use a competition type intake manifold(ports are too big).Use one that has a provision for a factory style thermostat and is designed for a street blower.Carbs( Holley) should be in the 600 cfm range-jetted 70 primaries and 78 secondaries.Use removable jets on each of the 8 corners of the carbs.Have both carbs modified with the piano wire mod.Any good carb man will know what to do.These carbs($250-$400 each) will have to be mounted sideways and use Enderle fuel injection linkage($150-$200).A complete drive assembly(2 pulleys-1 idler-1 idler plate with spacers-crank pulley for alternator-steering-waterpump) is going to run about $750-$1,000) Opps,forgot the belt-$75 to $125,depending which width, length,and pitch you use.This is just the beginning.You still have to recurve the distributor,get a fuel pump,fans,relays,belt guards,scoop,filters,......
Old 04-01-2008, 12:24 AM   #17
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by bigtars
You are right with the pinning of the gears.This will keep the gears AND rotors in sync. Clearances are critical. You are using a component that uses diesel fuel as a lubricant(excellant lube) and changing to a fuel that is not. Gasoline has very limited use as a lube. ...
Interesting thought. I know that the two covers are supposed to be holding gear oil to lubricate the moving parts outside the case. However, I had been assuming that the blads or rotors never touched. Do they actually touch afterall? If not, then where is the friction being alleviated by the diesel??

I guess you are right that at only 5 or 6 lbs of boost, I probably won't have heat to worry about - I don't have any baseline knowledge.

The bearing cover came through today:
bearing cover $110 - ebay (typical retail $180+)

I'm bidding on a 50 tooth pulley to go on top matching the 47 tooth bottom pulley I got. This should give me 6+ lbs.

It looks like I'm not going to have the blower together in time for this first build as I have chemo tomorrow, the blower was shipped late and the shop is calling me daily with updates and parts meaning they are moving along quickly.

We'll see how well I come out of sickness this time - it's my last treatement - yay, perhaps there is still hope for a supercharged s10 at least by mid-May.

Oh, and I checked out this site from the other thread: http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

If it does what it says then it doesn't seem that pricey to me
Old 04-01-2008, 12:44 AM   #18
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by bigtars
...Carbs( Holley) should be in the 600 cfm range-jetted 70 primaries and 78 secondaries.Use removable jets on each of the 8 corners of the carbs.Have both carbs modified with the piano wire mod.Any good carb man will know what to do.These carbs($250-$400 each) will have to be mounted sideways and use Enderle fuel injection linkage($150-$200)...
whoa. sideways? I don't understand. All of the 671 setups I've seen have the carbs mounted up top through the hood with air cleaner or scoop on that. Is there a special scoop setup you are thinking of? Sounds cool, do you have any pics or links?

Also on carbs, since I'm not afraid of backfiring or knocking from leanness - will it really hurt to try the stock carb for a little while? I have an Edelbrock 750 on my 454 that I can swap over until summer road trips, but was hoping to actually switch to some sort of aftermarket or rigged up TBI in the end after running the stock Rochester (or whatever it is). I know it will choke me down given the difference between the Rochester and Edelbrock on the 454, but curious to know if you think I can make it work for now.
Old 04-01-2008, 12:52 AM   #19
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by bigtars
A complete drive assembly(2 pulleys-1 idler-1 idler plate with spacers-crank pulley for alternator-steering-waterpump) is going to run about $750-$1,000)
I got the crank pulley for $110 from March performance which with a spacer will put everything in line from my 4.3 pulley setup.

It looks like I'm going to average $75 per pulley for the supercharger. And if I can get that blower in my hands I can measure and possibly bid on an 8" nose drive that is sitting at $200 ooh la la.

I found the idler and bracket setup in one deal that mounts to the nose, looks like it is going to come in aroud $100.

If everything works out, I could pay as little as $560 (not including my final final target, the belt)

I'm getting white knuckled from all this finger crossing.

Last edited by joseph; 04-01-2008 at 12:53 AM.
Old 04-01-2008, 08:48 PM   #20
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Do not buy the 8" snout because it looks good or ANY other reason. The snout MUST be tailored to the correct layout of the harmonic balancer+ the accessory drive+ the drive pulley.This is another critical item.The alignment must be perfect otherwise the belt will try to climb over the idler and that will eat up a blower belt in a hurry. The carbs sideways : I always use Holley,simply because the jets can be changed easily. Mounting these types of carbs in-line cannot happen because the carb plate adapter is not long enough except if you use the 0-1850 Holley which has no adjustable jet plate in the secondaries.The carb that you have will work to an extent. I wouldn't go out and mash the gas for too long. The costs of piston and valve replacement ain't cheap like it was in the old days.I can say old days because I'm to be 60 years young next month.My intent is not to sway you from seeing your blower come together,but to see that you don't spend on things that can be avoided.Oh,by the way,I used to go fast-real fast.My wife and I ran a funnycar in the Coke circuit for 4 years back in the 70's. I am now building our youngest son his 4th Jr. Dragster.(been racing since he was 7) This one has a 1347cc Suzuki engine.It's gonna be quick.He's been runnin' 8.90's in the 1/8 with Briggs on alcohol. Time to step up. FAST IS GOOD.
Old 04-01-2008, 09:33 PM   #21
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

I really appreciate the input.

I made some measurements today and it turns out that the 8-1/8" snout plus 1/4-1/2" of spacers will line up perfectly with the lower pulley attached to the accessory. The accessory arrived today and my shop is sending it and the stock serpentine accessory pully over to the machine shop so we make sure the tolerances on the accessory pulley spacer are perfect. If they create a perfect piece, I'll probably use the same machine shop to create the spacers for the drive also.

Also, did you have any thoughts on the internal lubricant requirement - what surfaces are creating friction that require lubricant outside of the lubricant held in by the covers?

Last edited by joseph; 04-01-2008 at 09:38 PM. Reason: I am the king of typos - how do you spell weiand anyway?
Old 04-01-2008, 10:03 PM   #22
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Use castor oil( NOT Castrol) in front gear drive with a spring-type pressure relief pop-off valve(the front WILL build up some pressure-release pressure on a daily basis)). Have 2 zerks installed in rear bearing plate-shoot a small shot of grease in the zerks weekly. Good to go.
Old 04-08-2008, 02:05 AM   #23
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

My sickness from the latest treatment is beginning to subside, so I found some garage minutes today. I completely dissassembled the blower, and have a few pointers:
1) to get the gears off, you need a harmonic pulley puller X 2 because both gears have to come off at the same time. You'll also need to visit the hardware store to get the right bolt for the application which is a 5/16 fine thread.
2) To safely knock things apart I used a heavy hammer and woodblock for the rear beating and for the front I replaced the large bolts that hold the gears on before doing my damage
3) To ensure that I can put it back together the way it was I scored the front shaft in line with the gears so that I can get the gears back onto the same exact spline that they came off of
4) Also to ensure reconstruction accuracy, I took photos of the rotors from the front and rear (they are marked with recessed dots) while they were still in a position relative to my shaft score marks

The evaporust is at work as I type cleaning up the gears and other non-aluminum parts of the blower.

I have an appointment in the morning with a shop to have all parts bead blasted and cleaned up. There I'm hoping to trip across a good lead to find someone skilled at using their bearing press.

Last edited by joseph; 04-08-2008 at 02:07 AM.
Old 04-08-2008, 10:43 AM   #24
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

The evaporust worked like a charm. After the overnight bath, I gave the gears a good scrubbing with a plastic brush in the sink and I'm continuing the bath for a few more hours before a final scrubbing and oil soak.

Old 04-11-2008, 06:06 PM   #25
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

holy cow, I've got a blower

picked up the parts from the sand blaster this morning and washed them thoroughly with water and hand dried.

learned quite a bit today:
1) The tolerances (that can vary by 1 thousandth of an inch are:
a) rotor to rotor .007 to .008
b) rotor to front bearing plate .010
c) rotor to rear bearing plate .020
2) in order to let a 671 blower spin at high rpm it is best to not use shims to set the timing. The helical gears that engage the drive rotor to the slave are shaped in such a way that if you add a paper thin washer before installing the drive gear you can effectively change the above rotor to rotor tolerances. For a gas engine, the best practice is to actually remove some material from one of the gears as opposed to adding a shim - this guarantees that at high rpm you won't shatter a thin little shim and lose your timing, lockup and break a crank -- NOTE that THIS is what everyone worries about when getting into one of these diesels. I was lucky, I put everything together and it was all perfect. I could tell that the slave gear had been machined in this fashion before -- woo hoo!

The sand blasted look is good for me as my truck will be primer gray with black rubber tribal markings. I may clear coat the case to make it match even better -- it looked nice wet.

I can spin it with my air wrench happily.

To those that may have doubted me:
Old 04-11-2008, 06:10 PM   #26
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

oh and, I didn't use any specialty tools except for the feeler gauge.

to install the shaft savers into the bearing plates I used an 1-1/4" socket.
to install the bearings I used an old bearing and the 1-1/4" socket taped together -- worked like a charm.

the score marks I made back at the beginning weren't necessary because the splines on the rotors have a missing spline that lets you line it up like it was. I did make use of the photos I took of the rotors in the case to make sure the recessed dots in their ends were in the same position as they were before they were removed
Old 04-11-2008, 06:15 PM   #27
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Joseph,no one that I read doubted you. All that I see is recommendations,thoughts,and ideas. Good luck.
Old 04-12-2008, 02:15 AM   #28
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

here is an article that provided me a few hints and some base knowledge before I started posing questions to vendors:

http://www.project33.com/article.cfm?ID=18
Old 04-12-2008, 02:19 AM   #29
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by bigtars
Joseph,no one that I read doubted you. All that I see is recommendations,thoughts,and ideas. Good luck.
I looked up through, you're right, it was on the v8 forum that I got some useless negative replies: ie. "dude, that blower is trash"

I really appreciate how much you and others have helped out, need to get these photos downloaded.

Last edited by joseph; 04-12-2008 at 02:31 AM.
Old 04-20-2008, 10:05 PM   #30
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

more progress:

1) I created a looking glass out of lexan and the cover to hold it in place with my jigsaw and a piece of 1/4" aluminum. I used loctite 515 to seal the lexan to the front cover.
2) I created a rear cover that stretches between the bearings and just covers out to where the bearing retainers sit. This keeps the case as short as possible and since I'm using sealed bearings I don't need to have a huge resevoire of gear lube back there. Before I placed the cover over the bearings I packed it solid with marine grease.
3) a drilled and tapped (with the bolt) a hole to allow me to add gear lube at the top of the front cover. I know there is some sort of special piece for this for nostalgia sake, but I just want to be able to fill it last after everything is in place.

now all I am lacking is the nose and the belt for the supercharger, but I'm saving up also for:
- a better radiator $300 ?
- a summit ignition system $329 (the stock distributor won't fit with the 671 manifold)
Old 04-22-2008, 10:34 AM   #31
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by bigtars
...You still have to recurve the distributor,get a fuel pump,fans,relays,belt guards,scoop,filters,......

When you said, "recurve the distributor" what do you mean. Is there a way to easily keep my existing distributor and get it to fit somehow?

My rear cover on the blower is very minimal, the closest things to the distributor are the blow-off block and the port feeding the boost gauge.
Old 04-22-2008, 12:51 PM   #32
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Quote: Originally Posted by joseph
When you said, "recurve the distributor" what do you mean. Is there a way to easily keep my existing distributor and get it to fit somehow?

My rear cover on the blower is very minimal, the closest things to the distributor are the blow-off block and the port feeding the boost gauge.
it will be hard. you need a small diameter one to clear the blower itself.
Old 05-09-2009, 08:22 PM   #33
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

phew.. it's been a while... after the chemo finally started wearing off I didn't want to think about any of the same things that I did while I was on it. The shop barely moved on the truck in the mean time and at this point say they've given me the hours quoted... hmmzz

to pickup where I left off: yep, I picked up summit's dist/MSD combo which slid in pretty easily and was easy to time from the first start. ( I pinkied the #1 during crank and lined up the dist to match that; it idles fine but haven't had it out of the "bay" it's in)

After a lot of carving on the existing serpentine tensionar and AC compressor mount to get it to fit with the snout, I ended up not being able to match a metric belt to the range of motion I had on the the blower tensioner.
So I gave up the entire left mounting system, modified the water pump pulley to fit a forward pumping and added a manual tensioner in the way the alternator is mounted. If I can serpentine in the Compressor with a custom mount later I still have the reverse flow water pump that will fit the mod'd pulley still.

Carved 1" out of the cross member that supports the hood. It is still plenty strong and wish that someone hadn't volunteered for the messy sawzall job they did on the cut. The BeCool slid nicely into this groove and gave me a 5/8 - 3/4" freespace before the blower pulley. Several different sizes of the BeCool could be worked into this approach. I plumbed the water with Napa flex pipe -- it is really thickly sparsely ribbed tubing that comes in pre-made lengths. They had a dozen or so variations in the back room that I picked throught. I also got various brass and nipples at Napa too, they have some very "home depot"-like bins full of goodies.

The clutch master and slave cyllinder came back to haunt me. First the studs have to be knocked out of the slave cylinder so you can squeeze in a nut between the 4x4 oil pan and bell housing and then have just the right size bolt. The new master resevoire snapped right off the 2nd time I took the cap off - piece of junk with JB weld in it's future. The line was another story. I had a junk yard slave master from a 4 cyl. manual and knew that the master cylinder matched. Again with Napa brass creativity I adapted a brake line to the master, but then found that the slave I had found based on the tranny year ('91) had a snap in plastic adapter. Chevy dealer as the line (that wouldn't allow for 4x4 oil pan for $146 -- I'd be cutting it up for the adapters.. expensive adapters) The kit comes with a slave thus the cost, but this inspired my next step since I was looking at replacing a modified/unreturnable slave cylinder: it felt like the snapin line-connection on the slave cylinder was plastic because of the paint, but it was metal. I tapped it out to match the extended threads on the end of the brake line I bent in place. I teflon'd it, wrapped the connection point with a pipe clamp for reinforcement and torqued it mildly. With a buddies help I was able to bleed the brake line er.. I mean clutch line (don't forget to put the resevoire cap on when bleeding)
However, it didn't snap the slave cylinder "tie-wrap" thingy. I'm going to pump it some more to see if I can get it, but it looks like I may need to remove the slave-cylinder and take a knife to the "tie-warp" thing to help the clutch along. Also, if it all blows up, I'll break down and buy and mod the lave and line from gm.

The pulley setup for being under-driven. After a lot of reading, I discovered that to push the mild compression I want on this nicely worn in, stock cam engine would allow for me to spin the supercharger slower than the engine. The top pulley is a 51 tooth and the bottom 47.
Again, this Ferme' approach is my favorite, the even with the stock (leaking fuel out of the side) 4bl carb made the setup sing.

Today I put on the same edelbrock 750 that I use on my 454. One thing I read last year regarding the "way to think" about superchargers on some levels involves the same principles as just think of your blown 350 like a 454 or 502.
Again, the engine with the edelbrock cleanly providing the mix instead. I got a pretty cheap pressure regulator that boasted 4 - 25 psi on ebay for $45. It seems to be working great although the fuel pressure guage I jerry-rigged didn't regsiter anything to allow for fine adjustment.

Also today, I added oil to the 671 blower housing. I have yet to find a good resource to know what type of oil to use, so I decided to just put in Mobil 1 for these short idles. I had run it for 5 seconds and 30 seconds dry. Funny thing happened while my and my tiny funnel holder friend watch it consume a solid quart.. and then sprinkle sprinkle as oil was making it's way through some sort of passthrough circuit to the rear of the supercharger. Nice 1 quart puddle of oil on the floor...

Being pretty sure that last year when I built this up that there was some sort of pass-through circuit, I'm figuring on:
1) plugging it (tap and screw)
or
2) Tapping it large enough for a brass nipple and valve it to use as a drain off to change the gear oil

However, I'm not positive that it is an oil passthrough that is causing the issue (maybe I'm screwed?; maybe I need higher viscosity?)

Any thoughts?
Old 05-12-2009, 05:07 PM   #34
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Hello,
My name is Keith. I have a 6-71 blower on a 427 BB Chev. 2-750 carbs.

You have a long thread. I can answer some questions for you.
Keep them short and too the point. Here is a link to pic's of my car.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2505359


KD
Old 05-12-2009, 05:16 PM   #35
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Thanks Keith.

I see in your pics that you have a full size back cover on your blower. My cover only covers the bearings themselves... which may be the problem:

When filling the oil for the helical gears, the oil drains out of the back somewhere. Is there a pass-through circuit for the oil level to remain constant on the front and rear compartments that I need to cap?

Thanks!
Joseph
Old 05-12-2009, 05:57 PM   #36
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Are you using 80w-90 gear oil in the blower? You should be.
Rear bearings on a 671 are sealed and need no oil.
Take a look at the link below. Your 671 Weiand blower should look like this.

http://www.superchargerusa.com/image...nd_7_large.jpg


KD
Old 05-12-2009, 06:02 PM   #37
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Cool, I will try the other oil type, I was using plain 30 weight for these test starts...

However, my blower is different from yours on the back. Since I knew that the rear bearing wouldn't need oil, I simply made a plate to fit over them and left the remaining space open air.

When you've taken your's apart is there evidence that oil made it's way back inside the rear cover?
Old 05-12-2009, 08:06 PM   #38
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Hmmmmmm......
If the oil is coming from the back, can you not use a light and see exactly where it is running out of ? The oil may flow back there for case cooling.
I suggest making or buying the back plate.
Weiand has become near impossible to contact for help.

Mine is 2 years old and never had the back plate off.
My snout bearing seal needs replaceing and they have not got back to me with instructions to change the seal(& bearing at the same time).

KD
Old 05-30-2009, 06:13 PM   #39
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Well, I've worked around the unexpected oil flow for the moment, just hoping to get it running long enough to get it home and make or buy a decent cover for the back. I have a new problem:

Facts:
- At idle it is running 18 pounds of vacuum
- It has the recommended BeCool radiator rated at 450 HP
- The water temp is placed on the driver's side head
- I've tried two thermostats, 195 Premium first and now 180 Economy (from NAPA)
- checked for air in the system over and over again, it does take a few cycles to get the air out, but
- ran from true TDC timing at first, rotated the dist. counter-clockwise 4 degrees and the rpms jumped noticeably (left it there)

Problem
- The thermostat is NOT opening up consistently (I can quickly tell when it is opened or closed based on the huge difference in temp of the air coming off of the radiator - perhaps the therm temp on the blower intake manifold is so far removed from the head temp that I SHOULD see 220 at times when the therm seems to be closed??

Tested at idle with the edelbrock 750 running at 3 + turns (fairly rich)
- when the therm is open I can watch the temp. drop from 205 to 185 at the head (like I start it hot and the therm opens)
- then other times the temp climbs to 215 + and the therm never opens (turning it off and immediately back on usually causes it to open in this case)

Have I just ended up with multiple bad thermostats?
Is the temp differential expected on with a 671 intake? Should I go for a 160?

Thanks again
Old 05-30-2009, 06:24 PM   #40
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

One more thing to add to the above post. I do have a kink in the water pump output line to the radiator that is limiting the flow but not stopping it. Even with this restriction (approx 30% diameter reduction), the engine cooled properly when the thermostat was open, but maybe that's my problem... frustrated...

Have a great weekend
Old 06-03-2009, 09:53 PM   #41
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Did my post make it?
Old 06-03-2009, 10:03 PM   #42
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Shoot, I guess not. Ok i'll try this again. I believe that your oil leak is from the oil return holes that are used on the diesel engines. You should have tapped them with a 3/8 pipe tap and installed two plugs at the bottom. These drains are at the front(rear on a diesel) behind the bearing plate in the case. The oil will drain from the two holes in the bearing plate through the case right onto your intake manifold. Second, i think your t-stat problem is normal operation and might be slow response from the guage. A t-stat will cyle open and closed. But just to make sure that you have all of the air out of the sytem here are some tips. Make sure that your rad cap is the highest point of the cooling system. You can try to purge the air from the cooling system by removing the t-stat. Heating it up until it opens and wedging a small asprin into the opening. Allow the t-stat to cool and re-install. Fill the cooling system with coolant mix and start the engine. The air will go right by the open t-stat and out the upper hose and fill neck. The pill will dissolve and the t-stat will work as normal. Also, just so you know. My SBC with a 6-71 converted from a jimmy runs at 210-220 with the temp sensor in the passenger side head. The t-stat is a 185. A blown engine just runs hot due to the excessive load on the engine at idle. If you have anymore questions you can email me at ethn_bert@yahoo.com
Old 06-03-2009, 10:17 PM   #43
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Re: pulley setup and snout for 671 (Weinand style) blower

Oops, I forgot to mention that your huffer has to come back off in order to access and tap those holes. Don't try to pull the gears off and remove the bearing plate without removing the blower. You could pull the rotors forward when you remove the front bearing plate and not know it. When you re-install it and fire it up it could lock up on yah. When rebuilding the blower. The rear bearings should be the second to last thing installed. First Install rotors. Install end plates. Tap/press in front bearings(Shouldn't take that much force). Install retainers on front bearing plate. Install rear bearings and retainers making sure not to cram rotors into bearing plate. Install gears in time. Check all clearances(shouldn't have changed if all you did was disassemble and tap holes). Install onto vehicle. Good luck and let me know how it turns out. Did you get that clutch problem figured out?
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