phew.. it's been a while... after the chemo finally started wearing off I didn't want to think about any of the same things that I did while I was on it. The shop barely moved on the truck in the mean time and at this point say they've given me the hours quoted... hmmzz
to pickup where I left off: yep, I picked up summit's dist/MSD combo which slid in pretty easily and was easy to time from the first start. ( I pinkied the #1 during crank and lined up the dist to match that; it idles fine but haven't had it out of the "bay" it's in)
After a lot of carving on the existing serpentine tensionar and AC compressor mount to get it to fit with the snout, I ended up not being able to match a metric belt to the range of motion I had on the the blower tensioner.
So I gave up the entire left mounting system, modified the water pump pulley to fit a forward pumping and added a manual tensioner in the way the alternator is mounted. If I can serpentine in the Compressor with a custom mount later I still have the reverse flow water pump that will fit the mod'd pulley still.
Carved 1" out of the cross member that supports the hood. It is still plenty strong and wish that someone hadn't volunteered for the messy sawzall job they did on the cut. The BeCool slid nicely into this groove and gave me a 5/8 - 3/4" freespace before the blower pulley. Several different sizes of the BeCool could be worked into this approach. I plumbed the water with Napa flex pipe -- it is really thickly sparsely ribbed tubing that comes in pre-made lengths. They had a dozen or so variations in the back room that I picked throught. I also got various brass and nipples at Napa too, they have some very "home depot"-like bins full of goodies.
The clutch master and slave cyllinder came back to haunt me. First the studs have to be knocked out of the slave cylinder so you can squeeze in a nut between the 4x4 oil pan and bell housing and then have just the right size bolt. The new master resevoire snapped right off the 2nd time I took the cap off - piece of junk with JB weld in it's future. The line was another story. I had a junk yard slave master from a 4 cyl. manual and knew that the master cylinder matched. Again with Napa brass creativity I adapted a brake line to the master, but then found that the slave I had found based on the tranny year ('91) had a snap in plastic adapter. Chevy dealer as the line (that wouldn't allow for 4x4 oil pan for $146 -- I'd be cutting it up for the adapters.. expensive adapters) The kit comes with a slave thus the cost, but this inspired my next step since I was looking at replacing a modified/unreturnable slave cylinder: it felt like the snapin line-connection on the slave cylinder was plastic because of the paint, but it was metal. I tapped it out to match the extended threads on the end of the brake line I bent in place. I teflon'd it, wrapped the connection point with a pipe clamp for reinforcement and torqued it mildly. With a buddies help I was able to bleed the brake line
er.. I mean clutch line (don't forget to put the resevoire cap on when bleeding)
However, it didn't snap the slave cylinder "tie-wrap" thingy. I'm going to pump it some more to see if I can get it, but it looks like I may need to remove the slave-cylinder and take a knife to the "tie-warp" thing to help the clutch along. Also, if it all blows up, I'll break down and buy and mod the lave and line from gm.
The pulley setup for being under-driven. After a lot of reading, I discovered that to push the mild compression I want on this nicely worn in, stock cam engine would allow for me to spin the supercharger slower than the engine. The top pulley is a 51 tooth and the bottom 47.
Again, this Ferme' approach is my favorite, the even with the stock (leaking fuel out of the side) 4bl carb made the setup sing.
Today I put on the same edelbrock 750 that I use on my 454. One thing I read last year regarding the "way to think" about superchargers on some levels involves the same principles as just think of your blown 350 like a 454 or 502.
Again, the engine with the edelbrock cleanly providing the mix instead. I got a pretty cheap pressure regulator that boasted 4 - 25 psi on ebay for $45. It seems to be working great although the fuel pressure guage I jerry-rigged didn't regsiter anything to allow for fine adjustment.
Also today, I added oil to the 671 blower housing. I have yet to find a good resource to know what type of oil to use, so I decided to just put in Mobil 1 for these short idles. I had run it for 5 seconds and 30 seconds dry. Funny thing happened while my and my tiny funnel holder friend watch it consume a solid quart.. and then sprinkle sprinkle as oil was making it's way through some sort of passthrough circuit to the rear of the supercharger. Nice 1 quart puddle of oil on the floor...
Being pretty sure that last year when I built this up that there was some sort of pass-through circuit, I'm figuring on:
1) plugging it (tap and screw)
2) Tapping it large enough for a brass nipple and valve it to use as a drain off to change the gear oil
However, I'm not positive that it is an oil passthrough that is causing the issue (maybe I'm screwed?; maybe I need higher viscosity?)