Almost everything you wanted to know about N20 but where afraid to ask.

[Rhino]

As the "subject" describes, the lesson today is about my favorite gas (other than gasoline) known as nitrous oxide!

I'm a nitrous oxide addict. [Hello Oxide.] Yes, it's true, I just can't get enough. I've tried all the therapies to kick the habit of nitrous and go fast without it - removing my air conditioning to save weight, installing 'foreign gears' (boy did that hurt), and even tried to force my driver to loose weight (unsuccessfully)! However, there's nothing like trotting along normally as I usually do and then all of a sudden take in a breath of that sweet gas. I *sob* don't think *sob* I'll ever be able to *sob* quit!"

The basic facts of nitrous oxide are these:
- Nitrous oxide is a cryogenic gas composed of nitrogen and oxygen molecules. (N2O)
- Nitrous is 36% oxygen by weight.
- Nitrous is non-flammable by itself.
- Nitrous is stored as a compressed liquid.
- Nitrous exists in two grades: USP (medical grade) and NitrousPlus (What is used in the NSX).
(On Nitrous+, sulphur dioxide is added to prevent substance abuse. Sniff this stuff, and you'll look like Phyllis Diller on a bad hair day.)

Here are some virtues of nitrous oxide in automotive applications:
- Lowers intake temperature, producing a dense inlet charge.
- Increases the oxygen content of the inlet charge. (Air is "only" 22% oxygen by weight)
- Increases the rate at which combustion occurs in the engine's cylinders.

I won't dive into the hard-core chemistry, but to summarize what nitrous does, when nitrous oxide goes into your engine, the heat of combustion breaks the N2O chemical bonds to provide the NSX engine with more oxygen with wich to burn more fuel. For my purposes, this "extra" power has come in handy against some pesky Supras!

The nitrous system is basically divided into four categories:
- Nitrous Hardware
- Fuel Hardware
- Electronics
- Necessary add-ons

Of course, they're all dependent on each other AND are all necessary for safe and proper function. Let's see what each consists of.

NITROUS HARDWARE:
This basically is all of the inner workings of the kit itself.
* Of course, we'll start with the nitrous oxide bottle. The bottle (usually 10 pound capacity) is located in the trunk. It can be mounted on either side of the trunk depending on where you may have mounted a CD changer. If you're wondering, I usually pay $3.50 a pound for nitrous. That's $35.00 per bottle if it is empty. I usually refill the bottle when there's 2-3 pounds remaining because it can be difficult to get get the correct pressures with little nitrous oxide in the bottle.
* The nitrous lines: There are two - one from the bottle to the solenoids and then one from the solenoids to the throttle body.
* Electric solenoids: These electric devices are the "on-off" valves that allow nitrous to flow. There are usually two - one opened by the user, and the other opened by the system when the system senses it is "safe" to inject.
* The nozzle: The nozzle is located after the air filter and before the throttle body. It is usually a "fan nozzle", and you control the amount of nitrous by use of a "gauged pill" (with a hole sized in .001") that sits ator the nozzle. The "pill" is inserted in the nozzle and is held securely by the 2nd nitrous line.
* Nitrous Pressure Gauge: I can always see the pressure of the nitrous in the lines. I always want at least 900 PSI for best results. I do not want to exceed about 1500 PSI. The gauge helps me note the "health" of the system.

FUEL HARDWARE: The fuel hardware is somewhat "optional" until you get to "classes" over 100HP. For nitrous to work correctly, you need gobs and gobs of fuel. Actually, nitrous makes you fuel burn more quickly and efficiently, so the more fuel you get into the system, the more power you can get from nitrous. In actuality, nitrous does not make the "power", the extra fuel burned helped by nitrous gives the power. Nitrous only "aids" the combustion of more fuel - hence, more power.
* Extra fuel pump: I have installed a high pressure/high flow in-line fuel pump in my NSX. Under nitrous injection, the pump goes into action and spikes the fuel pressure to 92 PSI. This effectively causes a good "rich" fuel condition, and the nitrous allows all that extra fuel to be burned.
* Nitrous line to fuel pressure regulator - the OEM fuel pressure regulator is utilized on the NSX. Upon nitrous injection, a small amount of nitrous (about 50 PSI) travels down a line from the nitrous pressure regulator to the fuel pressure regulator. When the nitrous burst "hits" the OEM fule pressure regulator, it "presses" on the internal diaphram(sp). By doing so, the nitrous system itself "cancels" any fuel pressure regulation that may be going on. As this happens, the in-line pump boosts the pressure, and BANG! You've got 92 PSI.
* Fuel pressure influence "T" - Like with the nitrous nozzle, there's another "pill" in a "T" fitting that allows you to adjust the amount of nitrous hitting the OEM fule pressure regulator. What this means is that you can adjust how much of the fuel pressure regulator's ability you want to "delete". The more you "delete", the higher your fuel pressure will be! (More power, hehehe.)
* Fuel Pressure Gauge: I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted in one of the banjo bolts atop the fuel filter. (Remember the post on fuel filters?) I have an adapter that screws into the fuel pressure "test port" on one of those banjo bolts. I use the fuel pressure gauge to confirm fuel tuning while injecting nitrous. It's also cool. Ha!

ELECTRONICS: There's a few wires and relays to cosider. It's all pretty basic once it is drawn out.
* Switches: I have 6 switches mounted in my NSX's "coin tray". Master Arm, Heater on/off, horn button selector switch, purge arm, purge on, remote bottle open/close. I can arm all systems on the NSX without taking my eyes of the road or the Supra in my rear view mirror.
* Relays and wires: Wires run from 12V sources, grounds, swtich terminals, extra devices, and relays. I also fuse all my power sources for safety and reliability.
* Air Fuel monitor: In my center console, I have an air/fuel monitor display. This allows me to monitor the air/fuel mixture so that I know I have a nice "rich" fuel condition as I inject nitrous. I also can see if I get too "lean" on the fuel. It is turned on with the "master arm switch".
* Horn button: The horn button doubles as the nitrous injection button. With a flip of a switch, I can make the horn button honk to horn OR inject nitrous on my command. This was done by placing a switch in-line with a wire harness wire below the steering wheel.
* Fuel Pressure Safety Switch - This devise sits in-tandum with teh fuel pressure gauge atop the NSX's fuel filter. This device measures the fuel pressure and acts as a electric switch. Simply stated, if a pre-determined fuel pressure (60PSI) is not satisfied by the switch, the switch will not allow the second nitrous solenoid to open and nitrous will not flow into the intake. On the other hand, if it does sense at least 60 PSI in fuel pressure, the switch will close and allow the solenoid to open - thus finally injecting nitrous. This is obviously an electric safety device for the system.

[Rhino]

NECESSARY ADD-ONS: These are devices that some consider "optional" but I consider "essential" to maximize my system's capability.
* Bottle heater: Maintains the bottle heat at 85 degrees. Automatically turns off over 85 degrees. Maintains bottle presure at about 1000-1200 PSI. IS turned on with "bottle heater on/off switch". If you do not have one of these, you will have low bottle pressure on cooler days. Less pressure = less nitrous injected = less power. (Bad).
* Purge valve assembly: This is an additional nitrous solenoid that allwas you to "purge" compressed air and such out of the first nitrous line (bottle to solenoid). If you do not have one of these systems, you'll suffer "lag" after you start injecting because it takes time to get the nitrous to displace the air in the lines. If you look at the picture at the top left of your screen, you'll see a cloud of nitrous shoot out of my intake as I am activating the purge system. The purge system is armed with a "arm" switch, and after "armed", I press a button to activate the purge solenoid.
* Time Based Nitrous Controller - This device allows me to regulate the initial nitrous charge. In the past, the engine would get all at once - kinda harsh on the ol' NSX engine. With the time-based controller, I can set the initial charge to 0%-100% of the total charge AND THEN set the time to get from that initial percentage to 100%. Right now, I'm set at 40% for 1.5 seconds. That is, when I hit the button and start injecting nitrous, the solenoids will inject only 40% of my large shot and will take 1.5 second to increase from that 40% up to 100%. This also eases the stress on the clutch! This device is on when the system is armed.
* Remote bottle opener - Allows you to open and close the bottle with a flip of a switch. It also can be used for an emergency cut-off. It is not really necessary, but it is nice to have in order to relieve stress on the solenoid valves.


PICTURE CAPTION: The in-line fuel pump is on the front fire-wall. Note the fuel pressure gauge on top of the fuel filter along with the fuel pressure safety switch. The Blue line under the drilled injector cover is the line that runs from the nitrous pressure regulator to the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel "T" is hidden.



PICTURE CAPTION: In this picture, you can see the two nitrous lines and the solonoid assembly near the fuse box. Note the large stainless hose that runs to the first solenoid - that's the main feed line from the bottle itself. The top "horizontal" solenoid is the purge solenoid. Following that is the nitrous pressure gauge. After the gauge are the two main nitrous solenoids (vertical). The blue device between the solenoids is the nitrous pressure regulator that sends a little nitrous to the fuel pressure regulator. Finally, you see the nitrous line that goes from the 2nd solenoid into the intake - the nozzle is screwed into the aluminum Dali intake tube.

That's really all there is to a NSX's nitrous system! The BEST I've ever done on a dyno with nitrous is about 352 HP at the wheels. It feels absolutely amazing when you feel it!

Many have asked me if there are any negatives with nitrous. Yes, there are a few. Simply stated, if you misuse nitrous in the improper manner, you WILL blow your engine. You'll aggrivate an extreme knocking/detonation condition that will quickly cause your engine to melt. If used properly, will it negatively affect the NSX engine? Well, it depends on your engine's current condition. If it is in bad shape - leaky gaskets, bad compression, etc., yes, it *could* harm your engine. However, for 99% of NSX engines out there, nitrous oxide is safe assuming you use it correctly. Now you ask, how do you use it correctly?

***ONLY use nitrous at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE at least at 3500 RPM.*** Some use the 4000 RPM rule, but I have enough fuel pressure to really use at 2000 RPM. However, I play it safe.

How long does it (a full bottle) last? Well, it depends on how much you use it. At one point in my life, I paid more for nitrous than I did for gasoline. Weird, huh? I enjoyed every minute of it. I'd be safe to say a "normal" 70HP kit can do about 15-18 full 1/4 mile runs. A 100HP kit, maybe 12-15, and my current 150HP kit, about 8 times running all the way to redline on 4th. NOTE: I can't use nitrous in 1st gear because it produces too much torque, and my wheels spin and spin and spin and spin and you know...

I installed nitrous at about 110,000 miles. I'm now at 180,000 miles. I've had countless miles and miles of nitrous enjoyment. However, I did really boost the nitrous in later times. Because of that, and because the engine was getting older, we believe the nitrous aggriveated a head gasket leak. A new head gasket will be installed 14 Feb! All in all, the NSX engine can indeed support higher nitrous horsepower, and the NSX's engine easily accomodates the rather small 70 HP shot that is commonly used!

I think I told you just about all except for specific installation instructions. Unless asked for, I won't bore you with the installation instructions - it's not too bad. I can install a complete system in about 4 hours at a nice pace.

Now you know all of the individual systems in my "home brew" nitrous kit for the NSX and you know their purposes. If you have any further questions about nitrous or have any other inquiries, just reply on the forum! Yes, I do individually build and install kits on the side for NSX owners no problem. If you feel the need for speed, and in your pockets you have little seed, nitrous may be what you need to get that creed of speed so that you can do your deed!





Some people asked about the don'ts of nitrous so here are some if you have any questions

The dont's of nitrous

• Don’t spray with out full throttle-you will get a nitrous build up in the motor
  
• Don’t spray with the temp below 950 or over 1200- if it is under it will run rich (not real bad) if it is over will run lean (very bad)
  
• Don’t spray if the motor is not running right-it don’t get better with the bottle
  
• Don’t spray with out purging it first- wont always break something, but could
  
• Don’t over rev the motor - most car/trucks have a factory rev limited that shuts off the fuel so you will only have nitrous ----boom
  
• the first time you hook it up do a test with out the fogger in the motor to make sure you are getting fuel/nitrous on wet kits
  
• Don’t spray with advance timing-boom
  
• if you don’t think it sounds right (the motor) it probably don’t
  
• Don’t spray if you dont think something is right (it probably aint)
  
• You wont know more if you don’t ask
  
• more nitrous is not always faster/better
  
• know the limits of the motor as a rule of thumb you can run half of what the motor pushing out

[Rhino]

Nitrous Q & A

Q. How does nitrous oxide create more horsepower?

A. Nitrous oxide provides the oxygen that allows an
engine to burn more fuel, more burned fuel equals more power.

Q. How does a nitrous system operate on a fuel-injected vehicle?

A. The NX system is a complete stand-alone air/fuel delivery
system that augments the standard factory EFI unit. It provides
additional fuel and oxygen to the cylinders via the patented “Shark”
nozzle mounted in the intake tract to provide additional horsepower.

Q. How does a nitrous system operate on a carbureted vehicle?

A. The most common method of boosting power on carbureted
applications is the use of a “plate” sandwiched between the carb
and the intake manifold. This plate contains orificed tubes that
deliver the nitrous/fuel mixture in precise ratios.

Q. How easy is it to install a basic wet nitrous system?

A. The NX “Stage 1” EFI System is very straightforward.
It requires no engine disassembly, no fuel system modifications
or timing retards. Simply install the “Shark” nozzle in the intake
tract approximately 2-6 inches in front of the throttle body and
connect the fuel solenoid to the high-pressure side of the injection
rail and your ready to go.

Q. Purge valves look cool, should I get one for my nitrous vehicle?

A. A purge valve is a valuable tool for increased nitrous performance.
It allows the user to “Purge” all gaseous nitrous from the bottle supply
line prior to using the system. This allows for a harder “Hit” from the
system thus increasing performance.


Q. What is the difference between a wet and a dry system?

A. A “Wet” system introduces a homogenous mixture of nitrous
and atomized fuel into the incoming airstream, thus providing a
perfect air/fuel ratio for each cylinder. A “Dry” system introduces
raw nitrous into the incoming airstream and depends on the EFI’s
injectors to provide the fuel enrichment. The problem with this
method is no intake manifold has perfect distribution and this
allows each cylinder to receive differing amounts of raw nitrous
but only provides a preset amount of fuel from each injector.
This results in rich-lean conditions throughout the engine
often causing engine damage.

Q. Can I still run my car all-motor with nitrous installed?

A. Of course, the nitrous system only affects performance
when it is being used.

Q. How does the solenoid know when to open and release
the nitrous oxide?

A. All NX systems are furnished with Wide Open Throttle
switches. This switch signals the solenoids to open when
the motor reaches wide-open throttle.

Q. What is nitrous backfire?

A. Nitrous backfires can be caused by two situations.
1. A nitrous system that is too rich or a system that
atomizes the fuel poorly, thus causing pooling or
puddling of fuel in the intake manifold. 2. A system
that is operated too lean.

Q. Should I use an aftermarket ignition with nitrous?

A. All NX Street or Stage 1 systems are designed to
operate with stock ignition; however any upgrade in the
stock ignition is a definite plus.

Q. Should I change my ignition system in any way
(timing, plugs, etc.)?

A. All NX Stage 1 or Street systems are designed to
operate with no timing retard. Spark plugs should be
changed to non-platinum style, 1 to 2 steps colder
than stock.

Q. How can my engine get more fuel while on the bottle?

A. All NX systems add additional fuel during nitrous usage
by injecting it directly with the nitrous through their patented
“Shark” nozzle. This method assures 100% atomazation of the
fuel and accurate air/fuel ratios.

Q. How long can I squeeze nitrous in my engine?

A. With an NX system the only limitation is the
capacity of the N2O bottle or the RPM limit of the engine.

Q. What is the safest way to configure nitrous activation?

A. The only safe way is to use a wide open throttle switch
however you may configure any number of ways to “trip” the
system but all must be used in conjunction with some type of
wide open throttle switch.

Q. Is a bottle heater good?

A. A quality bottle heater is essential to proper nitrous
system performance.

Q. Can I vary the amount of nitrous injected when I want?

A. Yes, by utilizing NX’s digital progressive controller, the
“Maximizer”. This devise allows the user to precisely control
the amount of nitrous delivered to his engine from the comfort
of the drivers seat.

Q. Can I install a nitrous system on my car if there is no
kit available?

A. NX has a system for every car manufactured in the
world today.

Q. How much of a horsepower increase can I expect from
a nitrous system?

A. All NX systems make within 2% of their claimed
horsepower, if you jet the system for 50 horsepower then
you can expect no less than 49 horsepower, usually a few
more than the rated amount.

Q.Is there a trade off for engine reliability and power
produced with nitrous?

A. When used according to factory recommendations
shortened engine life should not be a concern.

Q. How long will a bottle of nitrous last?

A. That depends on the level of power being produced.
The formula for calculating your nitrous usage is: .8 lbs
N2O X 10 seconds = 100 horsepower. I.E. If your system
is jetted for 100 horsepower it will use .8 lbs of nitrous for
every 10 seconds of usage.

Q. Are there nitrous systems available for late model imports?

A. NX makes a system for every car manufactured today.

Q. What comes with a nitrous kit?

A. Most NX systems come complete with a 10 lb nitrous
bottle, stainless steel bottle brackets, 16 ft aircraft style
supply line, N2O filter, lifetime warranty nitrous and fuel
solenoids with mounts, all standard jet settings, an NX
patented Shark Nozzle (nozzles), or a patented carbureted
plate, wide open throttle switch a complete installation pack
that includes all bolts, nuts, washers, wire, wire terminals
lighted arming switch, and complete instructions with pictures.

Q. Can you powerbrake an automatic with nitrous without it
blowing up?

A. The answer is a qualified, yes. If your brakes can hold
your engine at full throttle, with the nitrous on, the answer is
yes, but it is doubtful this would be possible.

Q. Can a nitrous system be set up to shut down once the
brake is depressed?

A. Yes, if the user wires his system with a double throw
double pole relay placed between the arming switch and
the wide open throttle switch that is activated when the
brakes are applied.

Q. How high must the RPM's before activating nitrous?

A. The RPM level is not as important as is the motors ability
to rev freely when the nitrous is engaged, I.E. If the vehicle is
in low gear nitrous can be engage at any time, but if the vehicle
is in a higher gear moving at a slow speed when the nitrous is
engaged the engine will detonate and damage will occur.

Q. Can I use nitrous on my high compression engine?

A. Yes, but the proper octane fuel must be used to prevent
detonation.

Q. Can I use nitrous on my turbo or supercharged vehicle?

A. Yes, NX specializes in turbo-supercharged nitrous
applications.

Q. What pressure should my nitrous bottle be at?

A. All NX systems are calibrated to operate at 900-1050 PSI.

Q. What if the pressure is too high, should I cool it?

A. If the bottle pressure is in excess of 1100 PSI the
bottle should be cooled using a wet towel or chamois.

Q. Where should I run the main nitrous feed line?

A. The feed line can be run either under the car of
through the passenger compartment. Care should be
taken to route the line away from any voltage points
or moving suspension parts.

Q. What if my bottle leaks while I'm driving, could I
get busted for OWI?

A. To become, “intoxicated”, the nitrous leak would have
to be severe and noticeable. No excuses to be found here!

Q. Why does nitrous have such a scary reputation?

A. There has been some very shoddy nitrous “kits”
sold to unsuspecting customers over the last 20
years, this along with the abuse nitrous has suffered
from “idiots” who damage their own engines.

[Rhino]

Q. What safety features come with a nitrous system?

A. There are several safety related devises that can be used with a
modern nitrous system. The first, and most important is the wide
open throttle switch. This prevents the user from accidentally
engaging the system. A special high flow nitrous filter is
furnished with every NX street system. All hoses are aircraft
quality stainless steel braided, Teflon. All NX systems come
with the highest quality, made in the USA, stainless steel
solenoids

Q. What are the differences between a dry nozzle and a wet nozzle?

A. The “dry” system uses the factory fuel injection to enrich the
nitrous introduced into the engine. The flaw with this technology
is that no matter how much nitrous arrives at a certain intake port
it always gets the same preset amount of fuel, or if a fuel injector
becomes clogged engine damage will result. The “Wet” technology
introduces a precise amount of fuel and nitrous through a high tech
mixing nozzle that atomizes the fuel to microscopic proportions. This
allows every cylinder to receive a precise, homogenous mixture of
fuel and nitrous, thus insuring a safe powerful increase.

Q. How can nitrous blow my engine up?

A. Nitrous in and of itself cannot “blowup” an engine. Nitrous
kits of poor design poor quality, and improper air/fuel ratios
damage engines.

Q. What is meant by 30, 50, 100, 150, and 200 shots?

A. “Shot” is commonly used slang in the nitrous community
to refer to the amount of horsepower increase provided by
the nitrous system.

Q. Will a bigger bottle give you more horsepower?

A. No; however a larger capacity bottle will provide a more
stable bottle pressure resulting in a lower E.T. and a higher M.P.H.

Q. What is the difference between a 1 stage and a
2-stage system?

A. A single stage system refers to one single nitrous
system; a 2 stage or dual stage incorporates two nitrous
systems on one application. This allows a car to launch
with the maximum horsepower possible, with the traction
available, then add more power down track as the car will
handle it.

Q. Why does my engine need more fuel while on the bottle?

A. The fuel, or gasoline, is the source of the additional
horsepower. The nitrous’ job is to provide the oxygen to
allow the fuel to be burned.

Q. When is the best time to use nitrous?

A. When you want to go fast!

Q. How can a nitrous system be activated (a "happy button,"
automatically, or what)?

A. All NX systems come standard with wide-open throttle
switches, however we offer an electronic TPS switch as
well as a push button.

Q. How much pressure should be in my bottle?

A. All NX systems are designed to operate between
900-1050 PSI.

Q. What accessories are available for a nitrous system?

A. NX has over one hundred accessory part numbers
ranging from digital progressive controllers to space age
bottle insulating jackets.

Q. Do you have an installation manual online so I can
see if I want to install a kit on my car?

A. Yes.

Q. How does a nitrous system know when I'm at wide-open throttle?

A. All NX systems are equipped with wide-open throttle micro
switches or an optional electronic TPS switch is available.

Q. Are there any dangers or things to stay away from while
using nitrous?

A. Of course, NX recommends that no more than an additional
25 horsepower per cylinder be used on a stock engine, with a
stock fuel pump. Always be sure you are using clean
uncontaminated nitrous. Also, be sure you have the highest
octane fuel available, I.E. 93 octane premium for, stock
compression, street cars and the highest motor octane fuel
available for competition type vehicles.

Q. How much does it cost to get refilled?

A. The cost of nitrous oxide varies with the region of the
country, however a general estimate would be between
$3.50-5.00 per pound.

Q. Can you feed an engine too much nitrous even if you keep
the air/fuel ratio the same?

A. Yes, if the mechanical limits of the engine are exceeded
catastrophic engine failure will result.

Q. Will I need anything else to install the kit properly?

A. To complete the installation a Gen-X package should be
ordered with the system. This includes the bottle heater
liquid filled nitrous pressure gauge, low fuel pressure safety
switch, and a external bottle vent fitting and plumbing kit.

Q. Can I hide my nitrous system from a novice tuner?

A. Yes, it is quite easy to hide an NX system from the
casual observer.

Q. Can I use a nitrous kit on an automatic?

A. Yes, the preferred application, for nitrous, is an
automatic transmission equipped vehicle.

Q. Can nitrous systems be used with aftermarket
chips or ECU's?

A. Yes, however close attention must be paid to
excessive timing advance that could cause detonation.

Q. Are drag racing launch techniques any different
with nitrous for AT or MT's?

A. Depending on the traction available the launch
techniques are the same however with the increased
torque and horsepower generated by nitrous usage
sometimes it is necessary to delay the nitrous onset
for a brief period.

Q. Does nitrous increase cylinder temperatures and
combustion chamber pressure?

A. No, cylinder temperatures should stay the same when
the correct nitrous air/fuel ratio is used. Yes, increased
cylinder pressure equals increased horsepower.

Q. What are some general rules for creating the most
horsepower without damaging anything?

A. Generally speaking the amount of power that can
be created with nitrous is almost limitless. To avoid a
catastrophe the internal components of the engine must
match the amount of power that is going to be generated.
The use of proper air/fuel ratios is essential and the quality
of the nitrous system is paramount.

Q. Is there any harm that can be done to my engine if I use
nitrous while the bottle pressure is too high?

A. Yes, the nitrous system will run “lean” if the nitrous
pressure is high beyond specification. This could cause
severe engine damage.

Q. Where should I install my bottle?

A. The ideal place to mount the bottle is in the trunk
however if your car is a hatchback it is permissible to
mount it in the passenger compartment if an external
pressure relief vent is properly installed on the bottle.

Q. Is a nitrous system worth the money
(horsepower per dollar wise)?

A. No other devise in the world offers such a bargain
as nitrous oxide.

Q. Why doesn't everyone use nitrous?

A. Nitrous is not for everyone, some people prefer
turbos, some like blowers, and others feel it is
cheating to use nitrous.