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#1 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 190
Location: Tallahassee User is: OffLine ![]() |
What now?
Last week I had a brand new distributor rotor take a shit on me out of nowhere. I replaced it and also installed March pullies and the truck has been smooth and bit more responsive as expected.
After a week, I decided to test it out and take off fast from a dead stop. Bad idea. The truck sorta didn't do anything in the first 2 seconds and after that, it knocked real bad until it reached 30 miles. I obviously stopped after that, I drove it home and it died in the parking lot. I let it sit for about a minute, cranked it back up and the RPM's fluctuated really bad, the under hood light was dimming on and off, my air intake tube came off (POS Ebay), and I was getting a quiet vacuum leak noise coming from the passenger's side. Being frustrated, I figured I'd be better looking at it in the morning. This morning I re-installed the air intake, checked all fluids, loose connections or vacuum lines, and everything seemed okay. Turned it on and it's perfect. The only thing I've noticed is that when I have the truck on drive, I get a sorta grinding noise coming from the steering column/dash area, and if I put the A/C on the noise just gets louder. I know I have a problem, but hopefully not a serious one, so any inputs are appreciated. Joe Last edited by cHUcKs10 : 05-10-2008 at 02:25 PM. Reason: . |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 190
Location: Tallahassee User is: OffLine ![]() |
Re: What now?
Did a little reading and could my problem be resolved by maybe upgrading the valve injection (SCPI to MFI)
OR My distributor shaft is the cause of it so I could try upgrading it to THIS |
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#3 |
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Registered (Ab) User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,946
Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine ![]() |
Re: What now?
Try putting a 3' rod on different parts of the chasis/motor and put the other end of the rod to your ear. Move the rod around and listen for the grinding, especially with the A/C on. This should help narrow down the location. Also, the dimming underhood light indicates an electrical problem. Could also be the cause of the rough running. Check all of your grounds and cable connections. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 190
Location: Tallahassee User is: OffLine ![]() |
Re: What now?
The only thing wrong now is a rough feeling on the brake pedal when stopped on drive. In neutral or park it's normal. My steering fluid has always leaked, so for a year now I've been filling it. Maybe it decided to crap out now? I'm taking it to a shop soon because I'm going to need my truck for a long trip and I want to be certain I won't have any problems. Any input still very appreciated. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 190
Location: Tallahassee User is: OffLine ![]() |
Re: What now?
Cliff notes version:
Tune up just done and march pullies installed; week later truck knocked bad from dead stop; First day after truck would not stay on, misfires, lights dimming, vacuum noise; Second day all okay but grinding noise in steering column; Third day, rough feeling on brake pedal and some grind on column still. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 850
Location: Maine User is: OffLine ![]() |
Re: What now?
The power steering problem may just be air in the hydrolic line.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 190
Location: Tallahassee User is: OffLine ![]() |
Re: What now?
Took it to a shop this morning to find out I have TWO broken motor mounts.
He charged me $265 for the job which I think it's a little steep so I'm gonna take a look at it myself. Also, I have ps fluid leaking from somewhere, which he says is the likely cause for the rotting of my driver's side mount. |
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