Repair your leaking oil cooler lines!

[Wheezy]

Quote: Originally Posted by gmjunkie

how do I get his email?

click on the user name

[HemiChallenger]

Did a delete on a 4x4 today. Worked but its tight in there.

[gmjunkie]

Quote: Originally Posted by Wheezy

You can still email the OP and get the pictures. He has them up on another site that didn't ban him.

Tried to PM w/ no response. do you know the other site that has the pics?

[gmjunkie]

hotwire sent me original photos, here they are:

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Here's a run down of what you need to do in order to replace the leaky factory crimped hoses on your stock oil cooler lines. I did this write up w/ a set of old lines I had laying around. It is NOT necessary to remove the lines from the vehicle when performing this repair.

First off, a run down of the tools:

angle OR straight die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel (or whatever you have that will work)
pliers
wide tipped flat blade screwdriver
brake cleaner
clean rags
1/2" high pressure oil cooler line
heavy duty worm gear hose clamps



---------------------------
Use the cut off wheel (or comparable means) to cut a line down the side of the crimp, be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the compression in the aluminum line (arrow). It's ok if you do not cut the crimp completely, it's very soft aluminum and will break/tear easily w/ pliers. If using a cutoff wheel, you will get burning rubber and oil smell.



Use the flat blade screwdriver as a pry tool and pliers to remove the crimp from the oil line.





A quick tug will seperate the rubber hose from the aluminum line. Have a drain pan close by as oil will come pouring out of the seperated lines.



Spray brake cleaner on a clean rag until the rag is saturated. Be sure not to get any in your eyes as it comes out under high pressure. Use the rag and THOROUGHLY clean the area where the rubber line will go. It is very important to get this area spotless, any oil left will result in oil leak or possible failure of connection.



Here is the hose you should be using, I got it from NAPA, it's a couple dollars a foot, usually is stored in a roll in a cardboard box, just tell em how much you need and they'll cut it off the roll. It is the oil cooler line pressure rated @ 300psi, NOT the transmission line rated at 400psi.

The hose I purchase from my local napa is ATP1-4864, or just ATP14864

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...e+-+Oil+Cooler

The #s are 8002361 MADE IN U.S.A. CS111804 CAUTION- DO NOT STRETCH; MIN. 3" BEND X500



Once clean and dry, hook up the new hose w/ the worm gear clamps. I try to center the clamp over the crimped section of the hard line to ensure a tight connection. Tighten the clamps until you can feel the rubber bulging through the slots on the backside of the clamp. (Old hot rodder trick I learned)
[hose clamp is not tightened in this picture, for display purposes only. Notice the factory hose has 1/2" marking on it, this is the correct size to use]



Here's the lines on my $900 blazer, has about 7-8k on these lines, runs over 60 psi on cold mornings, no problems.

[97countytrk]

I've been thinking about doing this conversion for years. Don't think this problem is limited to S-10's, because it's not. GM uses the same stuff on full size trucks as well, and I've helped a friend (with a full size GMC) replace his stock lines every couple of years. I've always felt this set up was a bad idea, and I see my 97 is starting to leak now, so it'll be getting a conversion.

I'm glad I went thru all 4 pages 1st though, as I think I'll stick with Hotwie's recommended 300 PSI oil cooler hose. I'm wondering about the "T" fitting hose clamps though, that a poster mentioned on page 3, and if they were any better than standard hose clamps.

[joyride]

can someone please tell me, if i were to delete the oil cooler lines, and with a new motor installed, if i could just screw the piece in, that the oil filter screws onto itself, and call it good? or do i need some kinda of adapter piece so it can read the right oil pressure?!?! because what i mentioned is what i have, and i have 0 oil pressure even though i didnt prime the oil pump, and cranked over the motor a few times without the coil wire on, and several other times without the #1 cylinders spark plug in trying to search for spark...and to find tdc also...is that enough to get oil pressure or what? im only asking because my dad keeps ****ing bugging me, sorry if its a stupid ass question but thought id ask to get him off my back about some stupid ****ing oil filter adapter.

[gmjunkie]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97countytrk

I've been thinking about doing this conversion for years. Don't think this problem is limited to S-10's, because it's not. GM uses the same stuff on full size trucks as well, and I've helped a friend (with a full size GMC) replace his stock lines every couple of years. I've always felt this set up was a bad idea, and I see my 97 is starting to leak now, so it'll be getting a conversion.

I'm glad I went thru all 4 pages 1st though, as I think I'll stick with Hotwie's recommended 300 PSI oil cooler hose. I'm wondering about the "T" fitting hose clamps though, that a poster mentioned on page 3, and if they were any better than standard hose clamps.

I used regular hose clamps, 2k plus miles with no issues. I double clamped it for insurance, but I think the regular clamps are sufficent for the job.

[joyride]

and to answer my own question, even though i thought my dad was wrong and we were wasting our time....the oil cooler adapter is what i needed to put back on to get my oil pressure back...weird. problem solved.

[Wheezy]

Quote: Originally Posted by gmjunkie

hotwire sent me original photos, here they are:
..............

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82513&highlight=oil+cooler+lines