Repair your leaking oil cooler lines!

[95 S_Trucker]

Quote: Originally Posted by HectorM52

No, sorry for the ambiguous sentence... I'm saying that just because the OEM lines (your first set) lasted as long as they did doesn't mean that your next set of OEM lines (your second set) will last as long as the first. I'm saying it's very random when they will start leaking.


Again, sounds like its pretty random. Some have gone 187k while others only 50-75k.



What difference does it make? 50k? 100k? 150k?

Again, I'd be willing to bet that you won't have that truck by the time it starts leaking again. Whether it's with another set of OEM or with this mod.

What I'm saying is this mod is simple and cheap. If it starts leaking before you expected then put on your dirty/greasy clothes, go spend the $15 again, and get back under there. I'm sure you've done some mod to your truck and had to go back and adjust, fix or replace. I know I have.


I think the thing to remember here is that this is HOT RODDING at it's finest. Finding a cheaper/easier way to modify your truck/car. If you wanted it fixed just like the dealer had it then take it to the dealer and have him fix it. While its there have him put on a cold air intake. God forbid one would void the warranty. Or get dirty. Geeezzzz...

i and a lot of people on this forum dont like doing things more than once if it is unnecessary. I never said that the clamp method wouldnt last as long as the crimp, but im not saying it will last as long either.

and my 95 with 184k on it is well past the 3 year 36k warranty, dont ya think?

and you dont make much sense using hot rodding. we are talking about slow s10s here

again i'm asking you if you've done this mod. and how many miles do you have on it sinse you've done it? I know hotwire's situation. whats yours?

[Hotwire]

Quote: Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

and you dont make much sense using hot rodding. we are talking about slow s10s here

When HectorM52 talks about S10s, he thinks hot rods. He's got a 85 w/ a 1995 LT1 355, cammed, head work, custom full length headers, C5 brakes, etc etc. Pick up this month's Chevy High Performance, you can see his truck on Page 56, also go on youtube and search Road Atlanta S10.

Back to the topic....

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

again i'm asking you if you've done this mod. and how many miles do you have on it sinse you've done it? I know hotwire's situation. whats yours?

Another situation of "what difference does it make?"

I've not done this mod because I don't have that motor. However that doesn't mean that the input I have can't be valuable.

"Theory" does actually have some relevance to "practice." You know?

So you don't do any "hot-rodding?" Well how bout "modding"???

[02_Black_XBlazer]

Quote: Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

and you dont make much sense using hot rodding. we are talking about slow s10s here

Just think of how much more knowledge we could have had about fixing and modifying vehicles if those pesky hot-rodders hadn't been tinkering with their shit for the last, oh, say, the last 60 years or so. None of that knowledge would translate to the everyday driver anyway, right?


Oh, and speak for yourself on the "slow" thing....

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97_S-10SS

Just think of how much more knowledge we could have had about fixing and modifying vehicles if those pesky hot-rodders hadn't been tinkering with their shit for the last, oh, say, the last 60 years or so. None of that knowledge would translate to the everyday driver anyway, right?


Oh, and speak for yourself on the "slow" thing....

We've said nearly the smae thing.

[02_Black_XBlazer]

Great minds think alike, I guess.

[95 S_Trucker]

Quote: Originally Posted by HectorM52

Another situation of "what difference does it make?"

I've not done this mod because I don't have that motor. However that doesn't mean that the input I have can't be valuable.

"Theory" does actually have some relevance to "practice." You know?

So you don't do any "hot-rodding?" Well how bout "modding"???

Thank you for finally answering my question. do you have a friend or something that has done this mod, have you seen it in person?

there must be some reason that you like this mod so much, but you didnt do it.

if you didnt do it? how do you know how great this mod is or isnt?


hot rodding as you used it was finding a cheaper/easier way to modify your truck/car.

first off its not easier, as they say this mod is easier done with the lines off the truck, but you are right that it is cheaper.

and I know what hot rodding is.

this is the def of it: an automobile rebuilt or modified for high speed and fast acceleration

no where in that definition is cheep or easy used


but i dont want to argue about what hotrodding is.



back to topic. Has anyone else other than hotwire done this yet?

if you have can you please post how many mile you have on the setup.

[pr0tus]

I just got done doing this, I'm about to add oil and start it, I'll give it a shot but I don't really like it so far. I don't know if they changed anything after my year, but on a 95 2wd the 1/2 hose isn't a very good fit. The factory hose is the same size but looks to have a smaller inside diameter, I can slide the 1/2 hose right over the aluminum line and hardly touch it. I have the clamps tightened till the point that they are almost stripped out and yet I can still twist the hose so its not all that tight. I can't pull it off though, I'm guessing they will start leaking before anything else. 3/8 line might be a tighter fit, but is smaller than factory so I'm not sure what I will do if this doesn't hold up. The hose I have is the 400psi transmission line from napa.

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by pr0tus

I just got done doing this, I'm about to add oil and start it, I'll give it a shot but I don't really like it so far. I don't know if they changed anything after my year, but on a 95 2wd the 1/2 hose isn't a very good fit. The factory hose is the same size but looks to have a smaller inside diameter, I can slide the 1/2 hose right over the aluminum line and hardly touch it. I have the clamps tightened till the point that they are almost stripped out and yet I can still twist the hose so its not all that tight. I can't pull it off though, I'm guessing they will start leaking before anything else. 3/8 line might be a tighter fit, but is smaller than factory so I'm not sure what I will do if this doesn't hold up. The hose I have is the 400psi transmission line from napa.

I would say that you should definitely measure the OD (outside diamter) of the fitting before you start running that thing too much. Especially if you can twist the line. That doesn't sound good.

Did you REALLY clean it well? You using NEW hose? If so it may be that you're better off replacing the lines. But at least you're trying it and can give some real-world feeback.

Just make sure you've taken the proper steps, due-diligence if you will, to make sure that it will not leak. At this point I'd say you're not quite done doing that yet.

[uhlhazard]

I have done it.

I have put about 2500 miles on it so far with no leaks at all. In fact this solved my small oil leak completely.

I do agree that when I put the 1/2 inch lines over the fittings they are very loose but after cleaning the life out of the lines with brake cleaner (not just elbow grease because that still leaves an undesireable residue) and repeatedly wiping them down with some dry/clean shop towels, my double clamps were not remotely close to stripping out. (as per tip mentioned about the rubber starting to squish through the grooves) I cannot twist my hose and lines after everything is snug like a bug.

I guess that the only drawbacks to this mod are having to explain to people that post here why we make fun of them for thinking the oem hoses are a better idea. Hoses and hose clamps are not exactly rocket science.

Why not make a post about how to install new oem hoses in place of your "leaking oil cooler lines"?

I think the best explanation for this mod would be:

Gayluminum* vs Stainless Steel clamps.

Who wins? You decide 2008.

*Gayluminum and the Gayluminum logo are registered trademarks of [UHL] and subsidiary companies, all rights reserved.

[Hotwire]

pr0tus, you should not be able to twist the hose once the clamp has been tightened. It should be a super tight fit when finished. If I remember correctly the hose was loose on the fitting, but would not pass over the shoulder on the aluminum hard line.

I will call my NAPA tomorrow morning to find out the part # of the hose I used, sounds like you got hydraulic line, is it really stiff hose? Mine was the exact same texture as the factory rubber hose, just seemed a little better reinforced w/ nylon webbing. It gave plenty when the clamp was tightened down, and the hose was tightly sealed to the aluminum, couldn't budge it.

[pr0tus]

I have a feeling my older ('95) lines are slightly different. I did get the 1/2" trans cooler line, I was considering the hydraulic because it looked better but I stuck with the oil line. The factory lines on mine are some type of steel braided line under the rubber, way tougher looking compared to the nylon stuff from napa (looks like airline to me ) From just looking at your pics, I don't think my fittings had the deep grooves, but I may be wrong. I didn't double clamp, but my hard lines were cleaned inside and out with parts cleaner and lacquer thinner. The hose clamps are from napa also.

[Hotwire]

I was going to go in and edit the original post, but I'm not allowed, so here is a close up picture of the #s listed on the hose I used on ALL of my trucks. It is the oil cooler line pressure rated @ 300psi, NOT the transmission line rated at 400psi. As soon as I can remember, I will get the exact NAPA part number and post it. I went through all my old receipts but was unable to find the one that I purchased this hose with. I hope this helps.

The #s are 8002361 MADE IN U.S.A. CS111804 CAUTION- DO NOT STRETCH; MIN. 3" BEND X500

[uhlhazard]

Hey Hotwire, I was wondering if you think I should use your specified oil line (from the above post) or go with the marine oil line. The reason I ask is because the tranny line I used is flimsy compared to the old stock lines which feel more like the ac lines on the compressor (very stiff, possibly durable).

I wonder if it even makes a bit of difference...

[Hotwire]

I do not have any experience w/ the marine oil line, just what I posted above. I know the above works and that is what I'm recommending to use. If you wanted to, purchase both and see if the marine line will work, just take back whatever you don't use.

[Hotwire]

The hose I purchase from my local napa is ATP1-4864, or just ATP14864

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...e+-+Oil+Cooler

[uhlhazard]

Then that is the line I will be going with. I'll go ahead and redo my existing lines (incredibly easy to do with hose clamps) and let ya know the results. Also, do you wrap it in wire loom? I am having trouble finding loom that fits the hose all of the way around.

[Hotwire]

Quote: Originally Posted by uhlhazard

Then that is the line I will be going with. I'll go ahead and redo my existing lines (incredibly easy to do with hose clamps) and let ya know the results. Also, do you wrap it in wire loom? I am having trouble finding loom that fits the hose all of the way around.

I have not wrapped mine. IF there is a spot that's rubbing, take some extra hose, split it down the middle (like hot dog bun) and wrap it around the the hose where it's rubbing. I don't like looming the hose because it hides problems that you don't know about until it's too late.

[ducttapeandziptie]

I'm an oil cooler line repair success story. 0 miles and only about 10 minutes of idling but no leaks yet. I'll report back when I get more miles on them. My dad thought that the hose clamp wouldn't be as strong as the oem crimp and it would just blow right off the line. I had 55 pounds of pressure at idle so I think that's within a quality hose clamps capabilities.

[Golana]

did any 1st gens have this setup with the oil cooler lines? seems like a mod that i would do. i like to keep things as cool as possible under the hood. oil filter relocation would be awesome too, its a pain in the ass to get the filter off if i accidentally tighten it too much hahaa!

[sonomanator]

i may do this mine leak very bad the spots in my driveway are getting very bad.

[blazerlow]

Quote: Originally Posted by Golana

did any 1st gens have this setup with the oil cooler lines? seems like a mod that i would do. i like to keep things as cool as possible under the hood. oil filter relocation would be awesome too, its a pain in the ass to get the filter off if i accidentally tighten it too much hahaa!

Ya my '90 s-10 blazer has it. the remote filter mounts on the front corner of the driver fender right behind the core support.

*edit* it is not actually an oil cooler on my setup though. it is just a remote filter with lines going to it.

[the_dam_man]

why not take the un cut hose assemblies into a hose shop and just get NEW rubber and ends crimped on them? hell I have bought oil hose at napa before and they crimped them for free (I had to pay for the hose and the ferrels....MAYBE $20 total) sure beats having those worm clamp ends hanging out all over the place.

[Hotwire]

Not sure that would work w/ our aluminum lines, the machines they have are for hydraulic lines using high strength steel connections, could collapse the tubing. You can definitely ask them, I never thought to, just figured I had everything at my disposal and you can't beat the serviceability of a worm gear clamp on the side of the road! Just drove close to 300 miles to the annual car show @ Pigeon Forge, TN, was running some pretty good rpms coming up the mountains, 2nd trip for the blaze, still no problems. Blaze is getting ready to hit 160k, so that's 32k on the lines, 0 maintenance.

[blazerlow]

Quote: Originally Posted by Hotwire

Not sure that would work w/ our aluminum lines, the machines they have are for hydraulic lines using high strength steel connections, could collapse the tubing. You can definitely ask them, I never thought to, just figured I had everything at my disposal and you can't beat the serviceability of a worm gear clamp on the side of the road! Just drove close to 300 miles to the annual car show @ Pigeon Forge, TN, was running some pretty good rpms coming up the mountains, 2nd trip for the blaze, still no problems. Blaze is getting ready to hit 160k, so that's 32k on the lines, 0 maintenance.

Wooohoooo!!!

[Hotwire]

Sorry, I hit 150K of 0 maintenance miles, so 22k and counting, was a little out of it last night when I posted.

[uhlhazard]

I just redid my lines. I used transmission cooler lines while I was trying to find the badass lines. Napa had them, they are RED and they are pimp... until the old leaky ass oil mess touches them then they become dark red.

The tranny lines did not leak, but they are not really for this application and the lines I got from napa are wicked badass and should last fo foeva.

Heres my pics:

[ducttapeandziptie]

Quote: Originally Posted by the_dam_man

why not take the un cut hose assemblies into a hose shop and just get NEW rubber and ends crimped on them? hell I have bought oil hose at napa before and they crimped them for free (I had to pay for the hose and the ferrels....MAYBE $20 total) sure beats having those worm clamp ends hanging out all over the place.

I got into this debate with my dad because He didn't think a hose clamp would be strong enough. I went down to the local hydraulic shop and asked them what they thought about it. First they showed me some hose and ferrules totaling up to a whopping $80... no thanks. Then he brought out a different kind of ferrule and hose for $40, and then he realized that the whole deal wouldn't work because it wouldn't fit in the crimping machine. So i settled with the cotton braided hoses and hose clamps for $20. I like the hose clamps since they are serviceable by me, I don't need to take the lines off and take them somewhere if I have a problem.

[rustymann4x4]

wen i put my new motor in i took those out and put a super small oil filter instead the lines... but you just got to use a small filters on the 4x4s because the drive shaft on the front wheel drive, it has bout half a inch from rubbing the oil filter to a hole...

[uhlhazard]

Quote: Originally Posted by rustymann4x4

wen i put my new motor in i took those out and put a super small oil filter instead the lines... but you just got to use a small filters on the 4x4s because the drive shaft on the front wheel drive, it has bout half a inch from rubbing the oil filter to a hole...

That sounds like a really bad idea. Also, that sounds like an incredible pain in the ass every time you need an oil change. I'm also sure that minimum wager at jiffy lube will be sure to replace that filter every time you drop by...

[Skip]

Quote: Originally Posted by Hotwire

Here's a run down of what you need to do in order to replace the leaky factory crimped hoses on your stock oil cooler lines. I did this write up w/ a set of old lines I had laying around. It is NOT necessary to remove the lines from the vehicle when performing this repair.
First off, a run down of the tools:
angle OR straight die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel (or whatever you have that will work)
pliers
wide tipped flat blade screwdriver
brake cleaner
clean rags
1/2" high pressure oil cooler line
heavy duty worm gear hose clamps

---------------------------
Use the cut off wheel (or comparable means) to cut a line down the side of the crimp, be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the compression in the aluminum line (arrow). It's ok if you do not cut the crimp completely, it's very soft aluminum and will break/tear easily w/ pliers. If using a cutoff wheel, you will get burning rubber and oil smell.

Use the flat blade screwdriver as a pry tool and pliers to remove the crimp from the oil line.


A quick tug will seperate the rubber hose from the aluminum line. Have a drain pan close by as oil will come pouring out of the seperated lines.

Spray brake cleaner on a clean rag until the rag is saturated. Be sure not to get any in your eyes as it comes out under high pressure. Use the rag and THOROUGHLY clean the area where the rubber line will go. It is very important to get this area spotless, any oil left will result in oil leak or possible failure of connection.

Once clean and dry, hook up the new hose w/ the worm gear clamps. I try to center the clamp over the crimped section of the hard line to ensure a tight connection. Tighten the clamps until you can feel the rubber bulging through the slots on the backside of the clamp. (Old hot rodder trick I learned)
[hose clamp is not tightened in this picture, for display purposes only. Notice the factory hose has 1/2" marking on it, this is the correct size to use]

Here's the lines on my $900 blazer, has about 7-8k on these lines, runs over 60 psi on cold mornings, no problems.


Hope this helps!

Hotwire

I don't see any pictures that you're referring to...problem on my end?

[mrgraphics]

I have a 2001 blazer, I have replace the oil cooler lines twice now, the last time was on new years eve 2007 in my garage with the help of a friend, what a pain. I used the DORMAN that time and on the 27th of November the crimp blew, thank god I was in my driveway and not the highway. I was sick of replacing the lines, so did a search and found this site. This repair made sense.

So on Friday after work, picked up the parts from NAPA and on Saturday I put in this repair, no leaks!!!!! Thanks HOTWIRE. It took me less than 2hrs. I used a roto-zip for the front crimps and a dremmel for the rear ones.

So far so good, I will with up-dates.

[Vash]

BTW I found out that some cheap radiators changed the thread sizes a bit. Maybe this contributes to some of the leakage? Only the Delphi is a perfect match.

[blazerlow]

no, this thread is actually about a remote oil filter application. So they technically are not oil "cooler lines" they are just lines to the remote filter. but that is good info non-the less.

[ducttapeandziptie]

I got a couple more thousand miles on my lines, not a single drop out of them. And o yea, fock dorman, they make garbage and don't stand behind their product whatsoever.

[ocgltd]

I'm considering a repair like this for leaky oil cooler lines...but up closer to the rad.

I can't see an pictures/links above. Where are the pictures? (I can see s10 photo in signatures above)...how do I get to the photos?

[HectorM52]

The author of the thread was banned from the forum. It's a shame as he actually had constructive input such as threads like this one.

This forum, however, appreciates people with no input but high post counts.

Unless someone else has pics they won't be reposted.

Good luck with the fix! It's pretty self explanatory. Cut off old clamps. Get new hose clamps. Put them on. Follow directions about cleaning, etc...

[ocgltd]

I was having trouble visualizing some aspects of the posts...

My leak problem APPEARS to be at the oil cooler in front of the rad. I can't be sure if it is occuring where the flex hose is swedged onto aluminum line, or at the cooler.

Is there a common point of failure there? Is my problem the same as the one being discussed here? (That's why I was hoping for a picture)

[sockjock]

You can still click on his name to see his profile then email him direct and he may send you pics if you need them.

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by ocgltd

I was having trouble visualizing some aspects of the posts...

My leak problem APPEARS to be at the oil cooler in front of the rad. I can't be sure if it is occuring where the flex hose is swedged onto aluminum line, or at the cooler.

Is there a common point of failure there? Is my problem the same as the one being discussed here? (That's why I was hoping for a picture)

While I don't have the same motor as the one being discussed - I think the leaks were coming from the joints that are "pressed" or "crimped" together. You're right - a picture would help.

But I was thinking it was where the rubber line meets the hard line.

I'm not sure if your word "swedged" is the same as my "pressed or crimped" but I would assume so. So I think if you have a leak at your cooler then it might not exactly be at the same spot.

However, the concept is the same. If oil managed to get through a certain passage way (between the rubber and the hard line) then you probably need to redo that junction. Oil is like water in that it finds a way to sneak out pretty well. So if you start over with a clean, dry surface then you limit the chance of the oil escaping.

[King_Ice_Flash2]

The other alternative would be to cut the crimp/flare/flange off of the hard lines and use hard line to AN fittings and run stainless braided lines. The 4 tube adapters were about $20 each, the 4 hose ends were about $8 each, and the hose was about $50. Now I am thinking about doing the trans lines and going to a trans cooler.

[024by10]

Hey Hotwire, I like your plan but I can't get the pictures you posted to come up. Any tips on that?

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by 024by10

Hey Hotwire, I like your plan but I can't get the pictures you posted to come up. Any tips on that?

Quote: Originally Posted by HectorM52

The author of the thread was banned from the forum. It's a shame as he actually had constructive input such as threads like this one.

This forum, however, appreciates people with no input but high post counts.

Unless someone else has pics they won't be reposted.

Good luck with the fix! It's pretty self explanatory. Cut off old clamps. Get new hose clamps. Put them on. Follow directions about cleaning, etc...

See above...

[blazerlow]

Quote: Originally Posted by HectorM52

While I don't have the same motor as the one being discussed - I think the leaks were coming from the joints that are "pressed" or "crimped" together. You're right - a picture would help.

But I was thinking it was where the rubber line meets the hard line.

I'm not sure if your word "swedged" is the same as my "pressed or crimped" but I would assume so. So I think if you have a leak at your cooler then it might not exactly be at the same spot.

However, the concept is the same. If oil managed to get through a certain passage way (between the rubber and the hard line) then you probably need to redo that junction. Oil is like water in that it finds a way to sneak out pretty well. So if you start over with a clean, dry surface then you limit the chance of the oil escaping.

you are correct about the lines leaking where the rubber hose is crimped onto the hard line. I am going to have to get new lines or repair mine very soon. It gets really bad in the winter. If I have the engine running, I can actually watch the oil seep out of the crimped part of the line and drip down onto the inner fender.

[glmartin]

Quote: Originally Posted by Hotwire

Here's a run down of what you need to do in order to replace the leaky factory crimped hoses on your stock oil cooler lines. I did this write up w/ a set of old lines I had laying around. It is NOT necessary to remove the lines from the vehicle when performing this repair.
First off, a run down of the tools:
angle OR straight die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel (or whatever you have that will work)
pliers
wide tipped flat blade screwdriver
brake cleaner
clean rags
1/2" high pressure oil cooler line
heavy duty worm gear hose clamps

---------------------------
Use the cut off wheel (or comparable means) to cut a line down the side of the crimp, be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the compression in the aluminum line (arrow). It's ok if you do not cut the crimp completely, it's very soft aluminum and will break/tear easily w/ pliers. If using a cutoff wheel, you will get burning rubber and oil smell.

Use the flat blade screwdriver as a pry tool and pliers to remove the crimp from the oil line.


A quick tug will seperate the rubber hose from the aluminum line. Have a drain pan close by as oil will come pouring out of the seperated lines.

Spray brake cleaner on a clean rag until the rag is saturated. Be sure not to get any in your eyes as it comes out under high pressure. Use the rag and THOROUGHLY clean the area where the rubber line will go. It is very important to get this area spotless, any oil left will result in oil leak or possible failure of connection.

Once clean and dry, hook up the new hose w/ the worm gear clamps. I try to center the clamp over the crimped section of the hard line to ensure a tight connection. Tighten the clamps until you can feel the rubber bulging through the slots on the backside of the clamp. (Old hot rodder trick I learned)
[hose clamp is not tightened in this picture, for display purposes only. Notice the factory hose has 1/2" marking on it, this is the correct size to use]

Here's the lines on my $900 blazer, has about 7-8k on these lines, runs over 60 psi on cold mornings, no problems.


Hope this helps!

Hotwire

I have a 1994 GMC SONOMO with the same problem. I am not sure why but I cannot display the pictures (just has a read x in a box). I am a new member so hopefully I am following the rules... I did not see too may comments whether the above procedure is advisable and will correct the problem. I am concerned that the hose will just come off with pressure. This sure seems like a reasonable inexpensive fix but I do not want to be 50 miles from home and have the line come off. If I do try this fix I am hoping my Dremel will do the trick of cutting a line in the crimp.

Any feedback would be appreciated before I start the task.. Thanks

[HectorM52]

See about 3 posts up to know why the pictures do not appear...

If you were to take a poll asking if this procedure was "advisable" you would get a vote similar to the latest election. Who is "right?" Who's to say??

Several respectable members have performed the mod with success. Therefore I would have to assume that success is repeatable - as long as you take necessary precautions to making sure the line won't come off... i.e. clean the connections THOROUGHLY and use quality worm-drive clamps. Double or triple up - it can't hurt, can it??

Maybe someone else could "imitate" the pics from Hotwire's first post and re-do the thread??

[uhlhazard]

I will be helping fellow member "Woogi" do his lines and will be sure to take and post pictures of the entire process. And no, 60lbs (peak) will be sufficiently inadequate to cause a leak imo. You could probably attach 250lbs to one side of the hose and lift it into the air from the other side having the hose clamps in the middle without failure. Mine is working like a champ but I feel like all of my gm cars are a failing damn of coolant, oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, freon, outside air, exhaust, and grease.

Then I have friends that own old Fords and I take a sigh of relief.

Even my Honda leaked some water into the swingarm and I have YET to fix it. (Ooh and oil too) (the only 2 things that it can leak)

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by ocgltd

I was having trouble visualizing some aspects of the posts...

My leak problem APPEARS to be at the oil cooler in front of the rad. I can't be sure if it is occuring where the flex hose is swedged onto aluminum line, or at the cooler.

Is there a common point of failure there? Is my problem the same as the one being discussed here? (That's why I was hoping for a picture)

You should spray the rad down w/ brake cleaner to clean everything off so you can get a good visual of where the leak is at. The brake cleaner will clean all the dirt/oil/etc off the radiator tank and lines, then after a couple miles it should be apparent where the leak is at.

Also, you can buy new fittings that screw into the rad if it's leaking there, the aluminum line just has a spring clamp holding it in.

[isaac]

hotwire your awesome!

i've been trying to figure out a way to fix this now you should me thanks.

that one guy has no idea what he is saying. you keep up good advice

[97ls1s10]

best thing is to take it off and never worry about it again. and best part is you dont have to buy anything