Repair your leaking oil cooler lines!

Hotwire · 03-17-2008, 04:16 PM

Here's a run down of what you need to do in order to replace the leaky factory crimped hoses on your stock oil cooler lines. I did this write up w/ a set of old lines I had laying around. It is NOT necessary to remove the lines from the vehicle when performing this repair.
First off, a run down of the tools:
angle OR straight die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel (or whatever you have that will work)
pliers
wide tipped flat blade screwdriver
brake cleaner
clean rags
1/2" high pressure oil cooler line
heavy duty worm gear hose clamps

---------------------------
Use the cut off wheel (or comparable means) to cut a line down the side of the crimp, be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the compression in the aluminum line (arrow). It's ok if you do not cut the crimp completely, it's very soft aluminum and will break/tear easily w/ pliers. If using a cutoff wheel, you will get burning rubber and oil smell.

Use the flat blade screwdriver as a pry tool and pliers to remove the crimp from the oil line.

A quick tug will seperate the rubber hose from the aluminum line. Have a drain pan close by as oil will come pouring out of the seperated lines.

Spray brake cleaner on a clean rag until the rag is saturated. Be sure not to get any in your eyes as it comes out under high pressure. Use the rag and THOROUGHLY clean the area where the rubber line will go. It is very important to get this area spotless, any oil left will result in oil leak or possible failure of connection.

Once clean and dry, hook up the new hose w/ the worm gear clamps. I try to center the clamp over the crimped section of the hard line to ensure a tight connection. Tighten the clamps until you can feel the rubber bulging through the slots on the backside of the clamp. (Old hot rodder trick I learned)
[hose clamp is not tightened in this picture, for display purposes only. Notice the factory hose has 1/2" marking on it, this is the correct size to use]

Here's the lines on my $900 blazer, has about 7-8k on these lines, runs over 60 psi on cold mornings, no problems.

Hope this helps!

Hotwire

Onimun · 03-17-2008, 05:42 PM

Good information here. may be a little more difficult to do it on the truck. Usually they tend to leak closer to the Block then up by the radiator. Good info nevertheless.

raider600 · 03-17-2008, 05:45 PM

Sticky

ssz28man · 03-17-2008, 08:55 PM

you might want to ad flaring the ends of the metal pipes to keep the hose from blowing off to your list. I've seen at least 5 cars in the last 2 months where the trans lines or oil lines have blown off because someone's replaced the factory crimps with screw clamps. The screw clamps can't hold as tight as the crimps do and there's not a lot stopping those hoses from coming off besides the clamp. I'm in no way saying fixing the lines this way is a bad idea or shouldn't be done, I've done it plenty of times. You just have to flare the pipes for it to hold.

S15vortecpwr · 03-17-2008, 09:04 PM

nater006 · 03-17-2008, 09:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ssz28man

You just have to flare the pipes for it to hold.

Agreed. Cheap fix but flaring is necessary.

(or for you 2WD owners... just remove them!)

Hotwire · 03-18-2008, 07:59 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by ssz28man

you might want to ad flaring the ends of the metal pipes to keep the hose from blowing off to your list.

Honestly in this instance it's not necessary. The factory lines have a bubble flare @ the end of the line and has machined grooves into the clamping area for greater hold, check the pics. If you're modifying other lines w/o a flare, then yes, by all means flare them before clamping. Double clamping is also cheap insurance. I've also had people ask if they can re-use the stock hoses. I would hold strongly to purchasing new line so you have a clean surface to clamp with.

I've got 12k on this motor / setup (pictures) and haven't had any issues. I'm hitting over 60psi twice a day while the engine is cold and the first 5-10 minutes of driving. I did the same on a 340 hp/ 440ftlbs LT4 conversion in a 89 s10 w/ a Melling high volume oil pump (80 psi peaks) and another LT1 swapped 4x4 converted to AWD. Not problems in either. The key is using the brake cleaner to completely clean all traces of oil from the mating surface before clamping it down.

ssz28man · 03-18-2008, 08:04 AM

ok, I'll give you that one, I kinda see the bubble flare now, still hard to tell from the pic though. Didn't notice it the first time

***orangesonoma*** · 03-18-2008, 08:11 AM

good job

Onimun · 03-19-2008, 05:20 PM

So what part of the lines tend to fail? The rubber line or the steel clamp? Couldnt you just put a pipe clamp over the steel clamps and tighten the heck out of them?

Hotwire · 03-19-2008, 09:08 PM

It's the aluminum crimp connection that loosens and fails due to repeated heating/cooling/expansion/contraction cycles. You'd be wasting your time putting a clamp over the factory crimp, once oil makes it's way passed the connection, it will always leak. Also, the pipe clamp (hose clamp) would probably strip out before doing any good.

nycblazer96 · 03-21-2008, 03:57 PM

i think its safer just to buy new lines they only cost about $30 shipped from rockauto

uhlhazard · 03-21-2008, 11:51 PM

That is a badass way to save 100 bucks over buying lines from advanced auto for my 4x4 jimmy.

Would this work on the pressure side of a power steering line?

Hotwire · 03-22-2008, 11:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by nycblazer96

i think its safer just to buy new lines they only cost about $30 shipped from rockauto

I think it's safer to replace my lines with quality components and know I did the job right vs buying $30 chinese knock off hoses and think they're superior, good luck to ya.

To each their own.

Quote: Originally Posted by uhlhazard

Would this work on the pressure side of a power steering line?

Unfortunately no, power steering high pressure line can get up around 1200 psi. They'd work till the first time the pump had to strain or you hit the steering stop and the hose would blow off and make a mess. The return line (goes to the power steering reservoir), yes, it can hold w/ double clamps.

Once again, anyone doing this, the key is high pressure oil cooler hose, heavy duty wide clamps (or double clamped), and surgical clean connections! I appreciate everyone's comments and questions.

BTE · 03-26-2008, 05:13 PM

I seem to have developed this problem as well.

Quote:

(or for you 2WD owners... just remove them!)

So you can just take it completely out? What will I need to block off where the lines used to come out of the block?

BTE · 03-26-2008, 05:49 PM

Never mind. I found it.
Anyone know the GM part number for the new lines?

hkellogg · 03-29-2008, 07:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by BTE

Never mind. I found it.
Anyone know the GM part number for the new lines?

look it up on dorman auto and get the dorman ones

moel16 · 03-29-2008, 07:53 PM

quote: Double clamping is also cheap insurance
x2

Bdydrp02s10 · 03-31-2008, 11:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Hotwire

I think it's safer to replace my lines with quality components and know I did the job right vs buying $30 chinese knock off hoses and think they're superior, good luck to ya. To each their own.

Unfortunately no, power steering high pressure line can get up around 1200 psi. They'd work till the first time the pump had to strain or you hit the steering stop and the hose would blow off and make a mess. The return line (goes to the power steering reservoir), yes, it can hold w/ double clamps.

Once again, anyone doing this, the key is high pressure oil cooler hose, heavy duty wide clamps (or double clamped), and surgical clean connections! I appreciate everyone's comments and questions.

Powersteering return lines hold plenty with single clamps.

albarragan123 · 04-24-2008, 06:16 PM

im having mine done by a buddy who makes stainless brake lines, p.s hoses hydralic hoses...ect, will post pics when done

Bill Wheats · 04-27-2008, 09:58 PM

I would recommend using Marine Fuel Line and stainless steel clamps. The Marine fuel line has about the best ratings and is virtually inpervious to breaking down.
Unless something physically damages the line, it will probably out live the truck. It may cost a dollar or two more, but you won't have to deal with it failing at an unopertune time.
Best of luck.

Jetmeck · 05-03-2008, 03:57 PM

Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL

Seriously did you just get these at your local parts store or what ? Thx for any info and the good idea.

Bill Wheats · 05-03-2008, 06:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Jetmeck

Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL

Seriously did you just get these at your local parts store or what ? Thx for any info and the good idea.

If they do, then you might want to rethink buying auto parts at Harry's House of; Beef, Pizza, Laundromatt, Barber Shop, and Auto Parts.

It's fuel line that meets and exceeds the ratings (oil, gas, trans fluid, Heat...). I always use Marine Fuel Line because it's higher ratings and I'm near a good supply. + they only sell stainless steel clamps.

Hotwire · 05-04-2008, 09:47 PM

If the parts store you go to cannot supply you with 1/2" high pressure oil/transmission/etc line, than take your $ else where. Don't get vacuum hose, do not get fuel line, do not get coolant hose. Get high pressure oil cooler line.

Here's the specs on the exact hose I got from NAPA, print this out and carry it with you when you go to purchase:

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...e+-+Oil+Cooler

I'm lucky to have really good people working at some of the auto parts places around here.

It's normally sold in lengths, tell them you want X number of feet, they'll cut it off a spool in the back and hand it to you.

Rhotpursuit · 05-05-2008, 01:31 AM

Very nice...

I should probably do this to my '96...original lines with no leaks and 183K...

scott3788 · 08-01-2008, 11:15 PM

Good Job ! I like the tip . Never thought to even check to see if repairable !!

uhlhazard · 08-02-2008, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL

That is exactly what happened to me. I tried to find the line a few visits prior to the installation with no success. If I had read this topic after a few updates I would have hit the boat shop and grabbed some marine fuel line. Anyhow I replaced my radiator and went ahead and did the half of the job. The lines going from the remote oil filter to the radiator.

I went ahead and purchased a corded dremel and just used my 300 watt inverter to power it. My hoses were triple clamped from the factory but the dremel at speed 6 made short work of them. Also the lines where the hose goes had nowhere near the groove depth your lines had, but it was the same in style. I hit it up with brake cleaner and wiped it down with those blue napkins you get at the parts store and walmart from automotive.

I also grabbed some I think 7/8th stainless hose clamps (by ideal made in usa because the chinese ones have failed on me too many times). They are the narrow ones so I was able to double clamp everything just fine and I used your hotrodders trick when doing so. The line I purchased was 400psi 1/2 inch transmission line. I will be doing the other half with marine line and might even redo this half with that kind of line too.

Anyhow I just wanted to say thanks to the creator of this thread. I spent about 20 bucks on hoses, brake cleaner, oil line seals, and hose clamps. I spent right at 100 bucks on a dremel so that brings me up to $120 total. Not exactly cost effective in the short term but now I have some new tools!

Again thanks!

Teamgeek6 · 08-10-2008, 12:09 PM

When those screw type clamps loosen from vibration, youll be sorry...
Or someone else who is unfortunate to do this will.

That youve done it and gotten away with it for a few miles DOES NOT make it a correct repair.

The engineers that design car parts design them as they do for a reason.

blazerlow · 08-10-2008, 01:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Teamgeek6

When those screw type clamps loosen from vibration, youll be sorry...
Or someone else who is unfortunate to do this will.

That youve done it and gotten away with it for a few miles DOES NOT make it a correct repair.

The engineers that design car parts design them as they do for a reason.

If you think that the people that design car parts are always right you need to open your eyes and realize that these oil cooler lines have been an issue for many years and they have never fixed the problem. I have worked at two different Chevy dealerships and these oil cooler lines were constantly on back order cause as soon as they go through one winter with them in a cold climate area, they leak. It doesn't matter how many times you replace them with new ones, give them one year and they will be leaking again guaranteed.

I say hot wire knows what he's talking about and I'm going to be doing this to my one year old oil cooler lines soon cause guess what? they leak. I have been told by more than one GM mechanic to use this method to fix them.

So if you don't want your lines to leak, you're gonna have to fix them yourself cause obviously the original designers didn't design them correctly, or the other option is to just keep buying new ones and replacing them constantly.

Nobody is wrong here, it's up to you if you want to keep replacing or actually fix it.

Hotwire · 08-10-2008, 01:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Teamgeek6

When those screw type clamps loosen from vibration, youll be sorry...
Or someone else who is unfortunate to do this will.

That youve done it and gotten away with it for a few miles DOES NOT make it a correct repair.

The engineers that design car parts design them as they do for a reason.

I'll continue to use my faulty windshield wiper controller boards because some engineer thought it would be OK for them to run the boards through a wave soldering machine @ high speed and cause cold solder joints on the large, heat sinking, power connectors from 1995 until 2001. I'll continue to use certified GM intake gaskets on my vortec 4.3s considering they DON'T leak and the engineers designed them to work that way. Reckon every motor needs a coolant pressure relief valve somewhere.. I'll continue to use GM catalytic converters because the engineers did such a fine job of figuring out how to keep the catalyst brick in place to keep it from bouncing around and breaking apart. Oh, my tailgate straps! Metal scissor straps were used from the 1940s all the way up until some engineer thought it would be better engineered to use low grade cable that deteriorates and snaps @ the bending point.. I'll continue to use those, they work so well! And my door hinge pins and bushings, man, those work GREAT!! Certified GM!! oh, my engineered a/c compressor, thumbs up!! Not EVERYONE that's owned a gm vehicle has had their compressor leak! Great engineering!! My gas gauge, wow, flawless, can't thank GM engineers enough for making that a great success! The perfect front geometry setup with the drag link and pitman arm, and idler arm, part houses have NEVER had to sell a pitman arm or idler due to the fantastic engineering that went into designing our steering systems! Those silly japanese people and their rack and pinion steering and sealed ball joints! They're always littering the roads with their parts that constantly wear down due to inexcessive engineering, what were they thinking!! The newer style vehicles don't have problems with their engineered coil on plug technology, or their horn relays blowing the horns dead, or the engineered straight 6s that are in envoys, they were perfect, they didn't have a single design flaw! Wow, I really need to watch what I post!

You're so right. Engineers have made this world so much better by figuring everything out for us, we that are so limited on our knowledge! Especially when a group of engineers decided to use soft, flexible, malleable, high heat expansion rated aluminum as a critical component to a soft rubber hose that contains our engine's life blood that heats and cools @ every drive cycle, sees spikes in pressures that expands the rubber hose, and they did it with such execution that there's never been a single problem with them. Nope, they didn't think to use steel retainers, higher pressure rated hose, AN fittings, just good ol cheap, light weight alumi

03-17-2008, 04:16 PM	#1
Hotwire rockin my life away Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 715 Location: Summerfield, NC User is: OffLine	Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Here's a run down of what you need to do in order to replace the leaky factory crimped hoses on your stock oil cooler lines. I did this write up w/ a set of old lines I had laying around. It is NOT necessary to remove the lines from the vehicle when performing this repair. First off, a run down of the tools: angle OR straight die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel (or whatever you have that will work) pliers wide tipped flat blade screwdriver brake cleaner clean rags 1/2" high pressure oil cooler line heavy duty worm gear hose clamps --------------------------- Use the cut off wheel (or comparable means) to cut a line down the side of the crimp, be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the compression in the aluminum line (arrow). It's ok if you do not cut the crimp completely, it's very soft aluminum and will break/tear easily w/ pliers. If using a cutoff wheel, you will get burning rubber and oil smell. Use the flat blade screwdriver as a pry tool and pliers to remove the crimp from the oil line. A quick tug will seperate the rubber hose from the aluminum line. Have a drain pan close by as oil will come pouring out of the seperated lines. Spray brake cleaner on a clean rag until the rag is saturated. Be sure not to get any in your eyes as it comes out under high pressure. Use the rag and THOROUGHLY clean the area where the rubber line will go. It is very important to get this area spotless, any oil left will result in oil leak or possible failure of connection. Once clean and dry, hook up the new hose w/ the worm gear clamps. I try to center the clamp over the crimped section of the hard line to ensure a tight connection. Tighten the clamps until you can feel the rubber bulging through the slots on the backside of the clamp. (Old hot rodder trick I learned) [hose clamp is not tightened in this picture, for display purposes only. Notice the factory hose has 1/2" marking on it, this is the correct size to use] Here's the lines on my $900 blazer, has about 7-8k on these lines, runs over 60 psi on cold mornings, no problems. Hope this helps! Hotwire
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-17-2008, 05:42 PM	#2
Onimun Mr. Sparkle Age: 18 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 6,890 Location: Southern California User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Good information here. may be a little more difficult to do it on the truck. Usually they tend to leak closer to the Block then up by the radiator. Good info nevertheless.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-17-2008, 05:45 PM	#3
raider600 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 2,113 Location: Indianapolis! User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Sticky
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03-17-2008, 08:55 PM	#4
ssz28man Registered User Age: 27 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 253 Location: durham, nc User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! you might want to ad flaring the ends of the metal pipes to keep the hose from blowing off to your list. I've seen at least 5 cars in the last 2 months where the trans lines or oil lines have blown off because someone's replaced the factory crimps with screw clamps. The screw clamps can't hold as tight as the crimps do and there's not a lot stopping those hoses from coming off besides the clamp. I'm in no way saying fixing the lines this way is a bad idea or shouldn't be done, I've done it plenty of times. You just have to flare the pipes for it to hold.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-17-2008, 09:04 PM	#5
S15vortecpwr goin broke but n style Age: 28 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 1,935 Location: Alabama User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines!
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03-17-2008, 09:12 PM	#6
nater006 loco hombre Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3,455 Location: Michigan User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Originally Posted by ssz28man You just have to flare the pipes for it to hold. Agreed. Cheap fix but flaring is necessary. (or for you 2WD owners... just remove them!)
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-18-2008, 07:59 AM	#7
Hotwire rockin my life away Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 715 Location: Summerfield, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Originally Posted by ssz28man you might want to ad flaring the ends of the metal pipes to keep the hose from blowing off to your list. Honestly in this instance it's not necessary. The factory lines have a bubble flare @ the end of the line and has machined grooves into the clamping area for greater hold, check the pics. If you're modifying other lines w/o a flare, then yes, by all means flare them before clamping. Double clamping is also cheap insurance. I've also had people ask if they can re-use the stock hoses. I would hold strongly to purchasing new line so you have a clean surface to clamp with. I've got 12k on this motor / setup (pictures) and haven't had any issues. I'm hitting over 60psi twice a day while the engine is cold and the first 5-10 minutes of driving. I did the same on a 340 hp/ 440ftlbs LT4 conversion in a 89 s10 w/ a Melling high volume oil pump (80 psi peaks) and another LT1 swapped 4x4 converted to AWD. Not problems in either. The key is using the brake cleaner to completely clean all traces of oil from the mating surface before clamping it down.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-18-2008, 08:04 AM	#8
ssz28man Registered User Age: 27 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 253 Location: durham, nc User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! ok, I'll give you that one, I kinda see the bubble flare now, still hard to tell from the pic though. Didn't notice it the first time
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03-18-2008, 08:11 AM	#9
*orangesonoma* forum idiot Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 34,226 Location: nc>nj User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! good job
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03-19-2008, 05:20 PM	#10
Onimun Mr. Sparkle Age: 18 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 6,890 Location: Southern California User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! So what part of the lines tend to fail? The rubber line or the steel clamp? Couldnt you just put a pipe clamp over the steel clamps and tighten the heck out of them?
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-19-2008, 09:08 PM	#11
Hotwire rockin my life away Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 715 Location: Summerfield, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! It's the aluminum crimp connection that loosens and fails due to repeated heating/cooling/expansion/contraction cycles. You'd be wasting your time putting a clamp over the factory crimp, once oil makes it's way passed the connection, it will always leak. Also, the pipe clamp (hose clamp) would probably strip out before doing any good.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-21-2008, 03:57 PM	#12
nycblazer96 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 334 Location: BROOKLYN, NEW YORK User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! i think its safer just to buy new lines they only cost about $30 shipped from rockauto
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-21-2008, 11:51 PM	#13
uhlhazard Aquatic Goat Farmer Age: 23 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 156 Location: Houston-aka Northern Mexico User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! That is a badass way to save 100 bucks over buying lines from advanced auto for my 4x4 jimmy. Would this work on the pressure side of a power steering line? Last edited by uhlhazard : 03-22-2008 at 12:15 AM. Reason: second thoughts
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-22-2008, 11:29 PM	#14
Hotwire rockin my life away Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 715 Location: Summerfield, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Originally Posted by nycblazer96 i think its safer just to buy new lines they only cost about $30 shipped from rockauto I think it's safer to replace my lines with quality components and know I did the job right vs buying $30 chinese knock off hoses and think they're superior, good luck to ya. To each their own. Quote: Originally Posted by uhlhazard Would this work on the pressure side of a power steering line? Unfortunately no, power steering high pressure line can get up around 1200 psi. They'd work till the first time the pump had to strain or you hit the steering stop and the hose would blow off and make a mess. The return line (goes to the power steering reservoir), yes, it can hold w/ double clamps. Once again, anyone doing this, the key is high pressure oil cooler hose, heavy duty wide clamps (or double clamped), and surgical clean connections! I appreciate everyone's comments and questions.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-26-2008, 05:13 PM	#15
BTE I have no idea Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 552 Location: Amherst User is: Online	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! I seem to have developed this problem as well. Quote: (or for you 2WD owners... just remove them!) So you can just take it completely out? What will I need to block off where the lines used to come out of the block?
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-26-2008, 05:49 PM	#16
BTE I have no idea Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 552 Location: Amherst User is: Online	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Never mind. I found it. Anyone know the GM part number for the new lines? Last edited by BTE : 03-26-2008 at 05:54 PM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-29-2008, 07:41 PM	#17
hkellogg Registered User Age: 27 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Originally Posted by BTE Never mind. I found it. Anyone know the GM part number for the new lines? look it up on dorman auto and get the dorman ones
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-29-2008, 07:53 PM	#18
moel16 Registered User Age: 17 Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 33 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! quote: Double clamping is also cheap insurance x2
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03-31-2008, 11:30 PM	#19
Bdydrp02s10 Anybody got 20's? Age: 28 Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 5,647 Location: Columbia S.C. User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Originally Posted by Hotwire I think it's safer to replace my lines with quality components and know I did the job right vs buying $30 chinese knock off hoses and think they're superior, good luck to ya. To each their own. Unfortunately no, power steering high pressure line can get up around 1200 psi. They'd work till the first time the pump had to strain or you hit the steering stop and the hose would blow off and make a mess. The return line (goes to the power steering reservoir), yes, it can hold w/ double clamps. Once again, anyone doing this, the key is high pressure oil cooler hose, heavy duty wide clamps (or double clamped), and surgical clean connections! I appreciate everyone's comments and questions. Powersteering return lines hold plenty with single clamps.
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-24-2008, 06:16 PM	#20
albarragan123 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 50 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! im having mine done by a buddy who makes stainless brake lines, p.s hoses hydralic hoses...ect, will post pics when done
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-27-2008, 09:58 PM	#22
Bill Wheats Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 1,045 Location: Maine User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! I would recommend using Marine Fuel Line and stainless steel clamps. The Marine fuel line has about the best ratings and is virtually inpervious to breaking down. Unless something physically damages the line, it will probably out live the truck. It may cost a dollar or two more, but you won't have to deal with it failing at an unopertune time. Best of luck.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2008, 03:57 PM	#23
Jetmeck Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 691 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL Seriously did you just get these at your local parts store or what ? Thx for any info and the good idea.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-03-2008, 06:13 PM	#24
Bill Wheats Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 1,045 Location: Maine User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Originally Posted by Jetmeck Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL Seriously did you just get these at your local parts store or what ? Thx for any info and the good idea. If they do, then you might want to rethink buying auto parts at *Harry's House of; Beef, Pizza, Laundromatt, Barber Shop, and Auto Parts.* It's fuel line that meets and exceeds the ratings (oil, gas, trans fluid, Heat...). I always use Marine Fuel Line because it's higher ratings and I'm near a good supply. + they only sell stainless steel clamps.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-04-2008, 09:47 PM	#25
Hotwire rockin my life away Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 715 Location: Summerfield, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! If the parts store you go to cannot supply you with 1/2" high pressure oil/transmission/etc line, than take your $ else where. Don't get vacuum hose, do not get fuel line, do not get coolant hose. Get high pressure oil cooler line. Here's the specs on the exact hose I got from NAPA, print this out and carry it with you when you go to purchase: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...e+-+Oil+Cooler I'm lucky to have really good people working at some of the auto parts places around here. It's normally sold in lengths, tell them you want X number of feet, they'll cut it off a spool in the back and hand it to you.
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05-05-2008, 01:31 AM	#26
Rhotpursuit Ticket Magnet Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 3,231 Location: Spanaway, Wa User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Very nice... I should probably do this to my '96...original lines with no leaks and 183K...
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08-01-2008, 11:15 PM	#27
scott3788 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 12 Location: Michigan User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Good Job ! I like the tip . Never thought to even check to see if repairable !!
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08-02-2008, 12:39 PM	#28
uhlhazard Aquatic Goat Farmer Age: 23 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 156 Location: Houston-aka Northern Mexico User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Did your auto parts guy kinda look at you sideways when you asked for 1/2 inch high pressure oil cooler hose ? I mean I can already see the blank stare I'll get at my local auto parts ? LOL That is exactly what happened to me. I tried to find the line a few visits prior to the installation with no success. If I had read this topic after a few updates I would have hit the boat shop and grabbed some marine fuel line. Anyhow I replaced my radiator and went ahead and did the half of the job. The lines going from the remote oil filter to the radiator. I went ahead and purchased a corded dremel and just used my 300 watt inverter to power it. My hoses were triple clamped from the factory but the dremel at speed 6 made short work of them. Also the lines where the hose goes had nowhere near the groove depth your lines had, but it was the same in style. I hit it up with brake cleaner and wiped it down with those blue napkins you get at the parts store and walmart from automotive. I also grabbed some I think 7/8th stainless hose clamps (by ideal made in usa because the chinese ones have failed on me too many times). They are the narrow ones so I was able to double clamp everything just fine and I used your hotrodders trick when doing so. The line I purchased was 400psi 1/2 inch transmission line. I will be doing the other half with marine line and might even redo this half with that kind of line too. Anyhow I just wanted to say thanks to the creator of this thread. I spent about 20 bucks on hoses, brake cleaner, oil line seals, and hose clamps. I spent right at 100 bucks on a dremel so that brings me up to $120 total. Not exactly cost effective in the short term but now I have some new tools! Again thanks!
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08-10-2008, 12:09 PM	#29
Teamgeek6 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 5 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! When those screw type clamps loosen from vibration, youll be sorry... Or someone else who is unfortunate to do this will. That youve done it and gotten away with it for a few miles DOES NOT make it a correct repair. The engineers that design car parts design them as they do for a reason.
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08-10-2008, 01:23 PM	#30
blazerlow I have the "disease" Age: 25 Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 463 Location: Center City, Minn-ee-soootaaah User is: OffLine	Re: Repair your leaking oil cooler lines! Quote: Originally Posted by Teamgeek6 When those screw type clamps loosen from vibration, youll be sorry... Or someone else who is unfortunate to do this will. That youve done it and gotten away with it for a few miles DOES NOT make it a correct repair. The engineers that design car parts design them as they do for a reason. If you think that the people that design car parts are always right you need to open your eyes and realize that these oil cooler lines have been an issue for many years and they have never fixed the problem. I have worked at two different Chevy dealerships and these oil cooler lines were constantly on back order cause as soon as they go through one winter with them in a cold climate area, they leak. It doesn't matter how many times you replace them with new ones, give them one year and they will be leaking again guaranteed. I say hot wire knows what he's talking about and I'm going to be doing this to my one year old oil cooler lines soon cause guess what? they leak. I have been told by more than one GM mechanic to use this method to fix them. So if you don't want your lines to leak, you're gonna have to fix them yourself cause obviously the original designers didn't design them correctly, or the other option is to just keep buying new ones and replacing them constantly. Nobody is wrong here, it's up to you if you want to keep replacing or actually fix it.
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