Forgot about that, I suppose if you didn't want to pull it out one could cut the gasket at an angle on a straight part of the gasket and give it a lil rtv in that spot to ensure it doesn't leak. I had to do that with a valve cover gasket that seemed to be stretched longer than normal that I couldn't get to fit into the groove, hasn't leaked yet.
Fel-Pro oil pan gasket set no. OS 30386 G
It fits GM product V6, 200, 229, (3.8L), 262 engine., 1978-95
I got mine at AutoZone. The oil pan "gasket set includes:
Qty. Part No. description
1 30328 oil pan front seal
1 30374 oil pan rear seal
1 30386 oil pan side
1 30387 oil pan " side
The oil pan gasket is a two piece gasket made from cork. There is no need to cut something that is already in two pieces.
As for installing it; My suggestion is to pull the motor unless you are without access to an engine hoist, tow truck, etc.
The oil pan won't come off without the bell housing/flywheel (or flex plate in the case of an automatic transmission) being removed first. Its not the crank that is so much the problem as it is oil pump/pick up tube that is going to block the removal. Even with the bell housing off, you are still going to have removal of the oil pan blocked by the oil pump/pick up tube. You can drop the oil pan down and get a couple of inches clearance to install all four pieces of the oil pan gasket. However, that is going to be considerably harder than doing it with the motor out of your truck. I think you will be able to do a considerably better job of installing the oil pan gasket with the engine out of the truck and it will be much easier on your back too. It is not a job that you want to have to do twice because it didn't seal right. It will take less time to pull the motor out and change the oil pan gasket than it would to try and do it with the engine in the truck. Its a PITA that you don't want to do twice. It is something that will probably outlast your motor if its done right (the first time).
Warmest regards from Florida