po1345

chevyistheway · 08-20-2008, 06:17 PM

ok so my truck is throwing a 1345 which is a crank, cam correlation

truck is a 98 and at idle which is about 600 it goes up and then falls down below 600 a few times then idles rite and does is again and as im in overdrive and maintaining speed it gives a little misfire

i searched and i came up with its in the distributor or the crank sensor
motor is just rebuilt and never had these problems before
the guy that put it in said the distributor is supposed to have a locker in it and it doesnt (idk)

helpl please

chevyistheway · 08-20-2008, 06:57 PM

also forgot to mention it runs very hot and wants to keep climbing

lesterl · 08-20-2008, 07:05 PM

Is this a 1998 Model? You never verified that on your other thread.

chevyistheway · 08-20-2008, 07:09 PM

Yogi · 08-20-2008, 07:22 PM

P01345 would seem to indicate that the dizzy is not installed properly. Have you rechecked the timing marks?

chevyistheway · 08-20-2008, 07:22 PM

no from what i understood is you can only put it in one way or it wont run
do you believe this could be causing the overheating problem

lesterl · 08-20-2008, 07:25 PM

You said it gets hot, is this what the guage says or is it being read by a scanner or by manually testing it. If it is running hot, is your cooling system good, I.E. good thermostat operation - boil the sucker till she opens and measure temperature. Hows the ignition on the beast, have you messed with it, is the dizzy a tooth off? Is the Cat plugged up?

lesterl · 08-20-2008, 07:26 PM

you have to align the teeth on the dizzy with the dizzy drive gear inside, also you need the crank turned to a certian spot and the rotor turned to a certian location, there are several links in the forum on how to do this, I would recheck it man.

Yogi · 08-20-2008, 07:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by chevyistheway

no from what i understood is you can only put it in one way or it wont run
do you believe this could be causing the overheating problem

Not true. You can be off one tooth and it will run, but it throws the code. IDK if it will cause overheating for sure but it might.

chevyistheway · 08-20-2008, 07:31 PM

i have no idea how to check the teeth, i didnt put it in nor did i ever see it out, i didnt touch this motor as it was being built so i dont know what was done

lesterl · 08-20-2008, 07:36 PM

If it is too far advanced it could overheat and ping also, high octane gas may run cooler.

Yogi · 08-20-2008, 07:36 PM

Click here for installation instructions in post #30.

The rotor need to point to the tab on the dizzy housing with "6" on it when the timing marks on the crank damper are lined up.

chevyistheway · 08-22-2008, 05:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

Click here for installation instructions in post #30.

The rotor need to point to the tab on the dizzy housing with "6" on it when the timing marks on the crank damper are lined up.

ok i took it to the guy that installed it and he moved it over a tooth and advanced the timing by moving the distributor(which i didnt think you could do) 25deg
runs much better still stalls a lil on take off and misses when the motor is cold but still has the code on
removed t stat and now no overheating probs

Yogi · 08-23-2008, 12:49 PM

Moving the dizzy gear one tooth moves the timing 27* so maybe that is how he advanced the timing.

Did you reset the PCM after he moved the dizzy?

lesterl · 08-23-2008, 06:21 PM

Did you cook the tstat in home with a thermometer to make sure it was running right? Was the stat in the right way when you took it out?

chevyistheway · 08-24-2008, 03:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

Moving the dizzy gear one tooth moves the timing 27* so maybe that is how he advanced the timing.

Did you reset the PCM after he moved the dizzy?

you can actually move my distributor like an old style, it doesnt have a locker, i watched him rotate it and when it was running terrible it was on 3deg adv.
and no i didnt reset the pcm but a friend of mine goes to college and tried to clear the code and it didnt work
his teacher who just so happens to used to work for gm says he thinks my pcm needs a cam relearn
???

chevyistheway · 08-24-2008, 03:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl

Did you cook the tstat in home with a thermometer to make sure it was running right? Was the stat in the right way when you took it out?

the tstat was in right but i took out the one before the one i installed later and put it in some very hot water and in some cold water and it didnt do anything but i dont know what exactly to be looking for but id rather run w/o it since my motor now is staying about the 160 unless im sitting still which is how it used to run

lesterl · 08-24-2008, 12:22 PM

The 195* stat should start to open around 185 I think and should be very smooth in operation, you can and alot of times WILL get a bad thermostat from the parts store, my father in law got 5 in a row bad, that is why you cook them on the stove with a thermometer before installation. I think you may have a problem if your stat is good and you were having those issues, I would definitely put a (known good) stat back in and try to figure out the problem, other wise that thing may stab you in the back somewhere not good.

Yogi · 08-24-2008, 02:55 PM

I wouldn't run without a t-stat. The stat puts some backpressure on the water pump so that the pump won't cavitate. Cavitation is bad for the pump and can cause low flow and excessive pump impeller wear. Overheating is real common on motors without the stat. If yours is now running cooler, that would point towards a bad t-stat.

chevyistheway · 08-24-2008, 03:18 PM

alright thanks guys ill check into the tstat this week but what about the code do yall think it could be a cam relearn even w/ the pcm tune or do i have other problems

Yogi · 08-24-2008, 05:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by chevyistheway

alright thanks guys ill check into the tstat this week but what about the code do yall think it could be a cam relearn even w/ the pcm tune or do i have other problems

You could try a crank relearn, but I don't know how the PCM will respond since you have a dizzy that has been moved.

chevyistheway · 08-24-2008, 07:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

You could try a crank relearn, but I don't know how the PCM will respond since you have a dizzy that has been moved.

do you think it could be the ign coil not being hot enough, i have the msd wires and ngk 7 gaped at 35 i think, could that be why it sputters at a stop acceleration

Yogi · 08-24-2008, 08:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by chevyistheway

do you think it could be the ign coil not being hot enough, i have the msd wires and ngk 7 gaped at 35 i think, could that be why it sputters at a stop acceleration

The coil has nothing to do with the code. The sputtering could be caused by incorrect timing. I just don't know what the PCM is doing to the timing with the distributor moved off of the index point. The solution could be as simple as doing a crank relearn or it may be impossible for the PCM to work properly with the crank and cam sensors too far out of alignment.

The proper gap for a '98 is .060" so that will definitely affect your low speed operation in a negative way. I would definitely regap the plugs to .060" but don't expect it to cause a dramatic difference in performance.

Are you sure that the plugs are "NGK 7"? I have NGKs in my '98 Blazer and the number is TR55IX. A "7" sounds strange in NGK's numbering system. Are you sure those plugs are recommended for the 4.3?

chevyistheway · 08-26-2008, 06:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

The coil has nothing to do with the code. The sputtering could be caused by incorrect timing. I just don't know what the PCM is doing to the timing with the distributor moved off of the index point. The solution could be as simple as doing a crank relearn or it may be impossible for the PCM to work properly with the crank and cam sensors too far out of alignment.

The proper gap for a '98 is .060" so that will definitely affect your low speed operation in a negative way. I would definitely regap the plugs to .060" but don't expect it to cause a dramatic difference in performance.

Are you sure that the plugs are "NGK 7"? I have NGKs in my '98 Blazer and the number is TR55IX. A "7" sounds strange in NGK's numbering system. Are you sure those plugs are recommended for the 4.3?

i have the 2 stages colder than stock so i can run a 125 later down the road

chevyistheway · 08-30-2008, 04:56 AM

ok so today i advanced the timing as far as i could w/o moving the dizzy over a tooth and my code was still on
tonight i raced a guy up to 80 and the code is now gone
i still dont think something is right, i cant spin a tire at all on take off and i could before the rebuild

08-20-2008, 06:17 PM	#1
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	po1345 ok so my truck is throwing a 1345 which is a crank, cam correlation truck is a 98 and at idle which is about 600 it goes up and then falls down below 600 a few times then idles rite and does is again and as im in overdrive and maintaining speed it gives a little misfire i searched and i came up with its in the distributor or the crank sensor motor is just rebuilt and never had these problems before the guy that put it in said the distributor is supposed to have a locker in it and it doesnt (idk) helpl please
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08-20-2008, 06:57 PM	#2
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 also forgot to mention it runs very hot and wants to keep climbing
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08-20-2008, 07:05 PM	#3
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 29 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,735 Location: Kansas City Area User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Is this a 1998 Model? You never verified that on your other thread.
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08-20-2008, 07:09 PM	#4
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 yes
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08-20-2008, 07:22 PM	#5
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3,667 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 P01345 would seem to indicate that the dizzy is not installed properly. Have you rechecked the timing marks?
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08-20-2008, 07:22 PM	#6
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 no from what i understood is you can only put it in one way or it wont run do you believe this could be causing the overheating problem Last edited by chevyistheway : 08-20-2008 at 07:24 PM.
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08-20-2008, 07:25 PM	#7
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 29 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,735 Location: Kansas City Area User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 You said it gets hot, is this what the guage says or is it being read by a scanner or by manually testing it. If it is running hot, is your cooling system good, I.E. good thermostat operation - boil the sucker till she opens and measure temperature. Hows the ignition on the beast, have you messed with it, is the dizzy a tooth off? Is the Cat plugged up?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-20-2008, 07:26 PM	#8
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 29 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,735 Location: Kansas City Area User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 you have to align the teeth on the dizzy with the dizzy drive gear inside, also you need the crank turned to a certian spot and the rotor turned to a certian location, there are several links in the forum on how to do this, I would recheck it man.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-20-2008, 07:28 PM	#9
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3,667 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by chevyistheway no from what i understood is you can only put it in one way or it wont run do you believe this could be causing the overheating problem Not true. You can be off one tooth and it will run, but it throws the code. IDK if it will cause overheating for sure but it might.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-20-2008, 07:31 PM	#10
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 i have no idea how to check the teeth, i didnt put it in nor did i ever see it out, i didnt touch this motor as it was being built so i dont know what was done
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08-20-2008, 07:36 PM	#11
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 29 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,735 Location: Kansas City Area User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 If it is too far advanced it could overheat and ping also, high octane gas may run cooler.
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08-20-2008, 07:36 PM	#12
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3,667 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Click here for installation instructions in post #30. The rotor need to point to the tab on the dizzy housing with "6" on it when the timing marks on the crank damper are lined up.
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08-22-2008, 05:47 PM	#13
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi Click here for installation instructions in post #30. The rotor need to point to the tab on the dizzy housing with "6" on it when the timing marks on the crank damper are lined up. ok i took it to the guy that installed it and he moved it over a tooth and advanced the timing by moving the distributor(which i didnt think you could do) 25deg runs much better still stalls a lil on take off and misses when the motor is cold but still has the code on removed t stat and now no overheating probs
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08-23-2008, 12:49 PM	#14
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3,667 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Moving the dizzy gear one tooth moves the timing 27* so maybe that is how he advanced the timing. Did you reset the PCM after he moved the dizzy?
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08-23-2008, 06:21 PM	#15
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 29 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,735 Location: Kansas City Area User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Did you cook the tstat in home with a thermometer to make sure it was running right? Was the stat in the right way when you took it out?
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08-24-2008, 03:45 AM	#16
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi Moving the dizzy gear one tooth moves the timing 27* so maybe that is how he advanced the timing. Did you reset the PCM after he moved the dizzy? you can actually move my distributor like an old style, it doesnt have a locker, i watched him rotate it and when it was running terrible it was on 3deg adv. and no i didnt reset the pcm but a friend of mine goes to college and tried to clear the code and it didnt work his teacher who just so happens to used to work for gm says he thinks my pcm needs a cam relearn ??? Last edited by chevyistheway : 08-24-2008 at 03:50 AM.
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08-24-2008, 03:47 AM	#17
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl Did you cook the tstat in home with a thermometer to make sure it was running right? Was the stat in the right way when you took it out? the tstat was in right but i took out the one before the one i installed later and put it in some very hot water and in some cold water and it didnt do anything but i dont know what exactly to be looking for but id rather run w/o it since my motor now is staying about the 160 unless im sitting still which is how it used to run
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 12:22 PM	#18
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 29 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 1,735 Location: Kansas City Area User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 The 195* stat should start to open around 185 I think and should be very smooth in operation, you can and alot of times WILL get a bad thermostat from the parts store, my father in law got 5 in a row bad, that is why you cook them on the stove with a thermometer before installation. I think you may have a problem if your stat is good and you were having those issues, I would definitely put a (known good) stat back in and try to figure out the problem, other wise that thing may stab you in the back somewhere not good.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 02:55 PM	#19
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3,667 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 I wouldn't run without a t-stat. The stat puts some backpressure on the water pump so that the pump won't cavitate. Cavitation is bad for the pump and can cause low flow and excessive pump impeller wear. Overheating is real common on motors without the stat. If yours is now running cooler, that would point towards a bad t-stat.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 03:18 PM	#20
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 alright thanks guys ill check into the tstat this week but what about the code do yall think it could be a cam relearn even w/ the pcm tune or do i have other problems
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08-24-2008, 05:26 PM	#21
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3,667 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by chevyistheway alright thanks guys ill check into the tstat this week but what about the code do yall think it could be a cam relearn even w/ the pcm tune or do i have other problems You could try a crank relearn, but I don't know how the PCM will respond since you have a dizzy that has been moved.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 07:33 PM	#22
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi You could try a crank relearn, but I don't know how the PCM will respond since you have a dizzy that has been moved. do you think it could be the ign coil not being hot enough, i have the msd wires and ngk 7 gaped at 35 i think, could that be why it sputters at a stop acceleration
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 08:16 PM	#23
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 3,667 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by chevyistheway do you think it could be the ign coil not being hot enough, i have the msd wires and ngk 7 gaped at 35 i think, could that be why it sputters at a stop acceleration The coil has nothing to do with the code. The sputtering could be caused by incorrect timing. I just don't know what the PCM is doing to the timing with the distributor moved off of the index point. The solution could be as simple as doing a crank relearn or it may be impossible for the PCM to work properly with the crank and cam sensors too far out of alignment. The proper gap for a '98 is .060" so that will definitely affect your low speed operation in a negative way. I would definitely regap the plugs to .060" but don't expect it to cause a dramatic difference in performance. Are you sure that the plugs are "NGK 7"? I have NGKs in my '98 Blazer and the number is TR55IX. A "7" sounds strange in NGK's numbering system. Are you sure those plugs are recommended for the 4.3? Last edited by Yogi : 08-24-2008 at 08:21 PM.
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08-26-2008, 06:18 PM	#24
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi The coil has nothing to do with the code. The sputtering could be caused by incorrect timing. I just don't know what the PCM is doing to the timing with the distributor moved off of the index point. The solution could be as simple as doing a crank relearn or it may be impossible for the PCM to work properly with the crank and cam sensors too far out of alignment. The proper gap for a '98 is .060" so that will definitely affect your low speed operation in a negative way. I would definitely regap the plugs to .060" but don't expect it to cause a dramatic difference in performance. Are you sure that the plugs are "NGK 7"? I have NGKs in my '98 Blazer and the number is TR55IX. A "7" sounds strange in NGK's numbering system. Are you sure those plugs are recommended for the 4.3? i have the 2 stages colder than stock so i can run a 125 later down the road
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-30-2008, 04:56 AM	#25
chevyistheway Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 183 Location: asheboro nc User is: OffLine	Re: po1345 ok so today i advanced the timing as far as i could w/o moving the dizzy over a tooth and my code was still on tonight i raced a guy up to 80 and the code is now gone i still dont think something is right, i cant spin a tire at all on take off and i could before the rebuild
	[Reply w/Quote]