HOW TO: TB Blade Removal

[MikeInCtown]

Quote: Originally Posted by circa

problem with putting new rivets in, the center piece will fall out leaving a new hole. if you dont pull it out it might drop down into the fire.
then with a new tick comes your new high idle.

weld it up or try an epoxy or jbweld make sure they cure -_-

Are you talking about the center of the rivets that you just popped back in? I just want to make sure you are talking about that and not about anything else.

I bought a pack of cut off wheels for my dremel as well as an extendable magnetic pick up and will probaby do this in the AM. Next after is an airbox mod.

[circa]

if your going to cut it, leave the rivets in.

when you put your rivets in, that center peg will fall out leaving a new hole.
thats why i dont get why they are saying to put new rivets in.

[BlazerChops]

I didn't do the rivet thing because I don't own a rivet gun and wasn't about to go buy one just for one little job.

[badjuju342]

Can't believe nobody mentioned this. Go to www.cfm-tech.com and buy a new blade.No holes to fill so nothing to fall into the intake and gouge the cylinder walls. Only about 40.00 . Then get a Standard Abrasives carb polishing kit and a die grinder and polish the throttle body. CFMtech sells a bigger throttle body but doesn't seem to give any gains on a stock motor like the blade does. I've done this to my truck and it made a VERY noticable difference. For 40.00 , I ain't gonna risk a rivet , weld or solder coming loose and into my motor.

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by badjuju342

Can't believe nobody mentioned this. Go to www.cfm-tech.com and buy a new blade.No holes to fill so nothing to fall into the intake and gouge the cylinder walls. Only about 40.00 . Then get a Standard Abrasives carb polishing kit and a die grinder and polish the throttle body. CFMtech sells a bigger throttle body but doesn't seem to give any gains on a stock motor like the blade does. I've done this to my truck and it made a VERY noticable difference. For 40.00 , I ain't gonna risk a rivet , weld or solder coming loose and into my motor.

It has been mentioned before, but in another (similar) thread. And why spend $40 and wait a week for it to show up when you can accomplish the same exact thing for free in less than 30 minutes?

It's the whole instant gratification thing and knowing that you did it yourself, for FREE!

[Renegade_Z]

I just did mine at work. its 11. I just bought the dremel cutting blades and the little adapter yesterday at the Depot for $15. I didnt drill the rivets out either, looked like it would an easy job a lot harder. I just drove it in the back parking lot, it a whole different animal. Dont spend $40, its not worth the wait.

[TA^Guy]

Quote: Originally Posted by circa

any wheel will cut it if you take your time or have the few dollars to burn a bit or two

problem with putting new rivets in, the center piece will fall out leaving a new hole. if you dont pull it out it might drop down into the fire.
then with a new tick comes your new high idle.

weld it up or try an epoxy or jbweld make sure they cure -_-

What are you talking about? The center pin won't fall out, if it does you've used the wrong size rivit.

If you are talking about the center being open just take a pair of plyer to the bottom of the rivit and pinch it closed.

Hey it's up to you guys, cut it and leave crap behind, or remove it entirely and have a cleaner mod.

I wouldn't suggest using JBweld, thats far more likely to fail than using a rivit.

Quote: Originally Posted by Renegade_Z

I just did mine at work. its 11. I just bought the dremel cutting blades and the little adapter yesterday at the Depot for $15. I didnt drill the rivets out either, looked like it would an easy job a lot harder. I just drove it in the back parking lot, it a whole different animal. Dont spend $40, its not worth the wait.

How is it harder? Drill out two rivits, entire thing comes out. Then put two rivits back in. Done. No cutting, and grinding any metal or anything.

[Renegade_Z]

im just saying dont think its easier drilling them out if you or anyone else thinks its easier the other way thats fine. I got no problems with that. Its just easier for me.

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by TA^Guy

Hey it's up to you guys, cut it and leave crap behind, or remove it entirely and have a cleaner mod.

I didn't leave any crap behind after I cut mine. Unless of course you're referring to that extra plate left on there.

[circa]

its covered by your intake so i dont get why people want a cleaner mod

[BlazerChops]

I don't know but my question is, what the hell is that nipple looking thing on it?!

[circa]

mine didnt have that...ahaha

[circa]

annyoying throttle body spacer whistle is eliminated when blade is removed

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by circa

annyoying throttle body spacer whistle is eliminated when blade is removed

I wouldn't know, don't have one. However, I now have a small turbo blow-off valve sound when the throttle shuts between shifts. It's kind of like a whistle sound. All of this after I cut that flap-o-shit off.

[Merritt]

Quote: Originally Posted by circa

annyoying throttle body spacer whistle is eliminated when blade is removed

When I did it the whistle got worse, and I put new rivets on and pinched the bottoms of them up real good with some pliers, I don't think the center's going to ever fall out of them.

[circa]

Quote: Originally Posted by Merritj2417

When I did it the whistle got worse, and I put new rivets on and pinched the bottoms of them up real good with some pliers, I don't think the center's going to ever fall out of them.

guess it depends on type of spacer
it likes to accelerate with less effort now... i can see many speeding tickets in the future

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by circa

i can see many speeding tickets in the future

If you see that kind of future with just this mod, then please don't ever get a turbo or supercharger.

[MikeInCtown]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlazerChops

I don't know but my question is, what the hell is that nipple looking thing on it?!

I'd also like to know that. I could have sworn that mine didn't have that and actualy just had a small hole in the middle where that nipple was on the picture. Will have to check again in a little while.

[copenhagen311]

well i did it today but i did it a lil diffrent then yall did.

first off i used some tin snips and cut off the blade
and i had no carbon to clean off so i just sprayed some wd-40 on it and wiped it clean .. then i used a flap disk on my grinder and smoothed the lip off left from the snips simple and easy

i got pics to but unless someone wants to see the same thing i wont post it but i had the nipple lookin thing to

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by copenhagen311

i got pics to but unless someone wants to see the same thing i wont post it but i had the nipple lookin thing to

Ahh, go ahead and post the pics anyway. Everyone likes pics, even if it is something we've seen a million times before!

[Yogi]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlazerChops

Ahh, go ahead and post the pics anyway. Everyone likes pics, even if it is something we've seen a million times before!

How true! Especially anything with nipples!!

[copenhagen311]

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

How true! Especially anything with nipples!!

workin on it right now LOL

[copenhagen311]

ok i made the pics smaller now for those who dont have 20 inch screens lol


ok first off this is what we started with


then after a little cleaning with some wd-40 and some 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper u end up with this

here is what you are cutting

here it is after the cutting is done



then after hitting it with the flapper disk on the grinder and some more sandpaper with wd-40 u have this



i would of took pics of reinstalling it but my daughter was giving me hell that she wanted to go to the park like yesterday so i installed it and went.
this is just showing how i did it i dont think there is a wrong way but i spent no money on this at all and it seemed to help the acceleration witht he a/c on max the most it doesnt seem to be draggin its ass now

[Yogi]

Nice job!

I thought that the 2 holes next to the nipple had rivets in them. From the pics, it looks like your 2 holes are open and that the nipple is a rivet holding the deflector onto the throttle blade. Is that how it is or are those holes plugged with rivets? I'm not talking about the pair of holes farthest away from the nipple - those hold the blade to the shaft.

[LeSabreUltra]

Wow, you guys have got me really wanting to do this.

Problem is, unlike my project car my record is pure shit on this truck as far as doing my own custom work is concerned. Everything seems to backfire, lol.
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[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by LeSabreUltra

Wow, you guys have got me really wanting to do this.

Problem is, unlike my project car my record is pure shit on this truck as far as doing my own custom work is concerned. Everything seems to backfire, lol.
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There's no way possible that this one can backfire on you.

[LeSabreUltra]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlazerChops

There's no way possible that this one can backfire on you.

Unless I drop something in there, lol.

Nah, I don't think I'm that bad.

I might give it a try after dinner. I don't have a dremel tool but I do have a hacksaw, a file, and lots of patience.

I suppose the worst case scenario is that I mess up on the cutting, and have to buy a replacement part from the dealer.
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[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by LeSabreUltra

Unless I drop something in there, lol.

Nah, I don't think I'm that bad.

I might give it a try after dinner. I don't have a dremel tool but I do have a hacksaw, a file, and lots of patience.

I suppose the worst case scenario is that I mess up on the cutting, and have to buy a replacement part from the dealer.
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Well, if you can't draw a straight line with a ruler, then maybe you should leave the TB mod for someone else to do.

[LeSabreUltra]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlazerChops

Well, if you can't draw a straight line with a ruler, then maybe you should leave the TB mod for someone else to do.

Actually, I got it and it came out great. Super easy.

I did what a guy who posted above me after a couple of trips with the hacksaw. I used a pair of metal shears and it was like clipping a fingernail, then went after it with a file until there was just an extremely small lip above the flat surface of the blade so I didn't overdo it.

Results:



It may not be for everyone, but I love it. Truck feels way more responsive.

The truck really snaps off the line and pulls hard all the way up to about a 2000 rpm shift, which was pretty gutless beforehand. It continues like this all the way up to highway speeds.

One thing I like is how it reacts to shifts now...before when it upshifted it would kind of just go "flat" and I'd have to push the throttle in a bit to keep it accelerating at the same rate. Now, it lurches forward after the shift and keeps on hauling.

Having the A/C on isn't so much of a pain in the ass anymore...used to feel like my truck suddenly became a soprano every time the clutch would engage. Now I don't even notice it really.

I don't know what it does on the top end because I didn't test that, so I can't report on it. But for anyone who wants more responsiveness and WAY more effortless acceleration in every day driving, go for it. I highly recommend it.
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[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by LeSabreUltra

Actually, I got it and it came out great. Super easy.

I did what a guy who posted above me after a couple of trips with the hacksaw. I used a pair of metal shears and it was like clipping a fingernail, then went after it with a file until there was just an extremely small lip above the flat surface of the blade so I didn't overdo it.

Results:



It may not be for everyone, but I love it. Truck feels way more responsive.

The truck really snaps off the line and pulls hard all the way up to about a 2000 rpm shift, which was pretty gutless beforehand. It continues like this all the way up to highway speeds.

One thing I like is how it reacts to shifts now...before when it upshifted it would kind of just go "flat" and I'd have to push the throttle in a bit to keep it accelerating at the same rate. Now, it lurches forward after the shift and keeps on hauling.

Having the A/C on isn't so much of a pain in the ass anymore...used to feel like my truck suddenly became a soprano every time the clutch would engage. Now I don't even notice it really.

I don't know what it does on the top end because I didn't test that, so I can't report on it. But for anyone who wants more responsiveness and WAY more effortless acceleration in every day driving, go for it. I highly recommend it.
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See, I told you it was easy.

[LeSabreUltra]

It was definitely easy, and the difference is great.

I've been reading around and finding some skeptics who think it's all psychological, entirely untrue!

Take this situation: Before, at 50 mph, under the same temperature and conditions going up a certain hill, my truck would always have to downshift to maintain speed.

Just tonight, after the mod, I went up the same hill and didn't downshift at all...in fact I was accelerating slightly uphill with the torque converter engaged.

Transmission shifting aside, I could easily tell I wasn't having to push it nearly as hard to get it up that hill.

Aside from an actual dyno run, if that isn't genuine proof that there is additional low end power to be found from this, I don't know what is.

Well worth the time. Thanks for the write up.
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[copenhagen311]

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

Nice job!

I thought that the 2 holes next to the nipple had rivets in them. From the pics, it looks like your 2 holes are open and that the nipple is a rivet holding the deflector onto the throttle blade. Is that how it is or are those holes plugged with rivets? I'm not talking about the pair of holes farthest away from the nipple - those hold the blade to the shaft.

here is that the top looks like it appears to me the nipple holds it on with those open lookin holes and 2 more little ones? i guess i should say this is off a 2003 4.3 auto with no cruise control dont know if it makes a diff or not

[556mm]

i can't wait to do this. thanks for the nice type ups fellas. i have a question though do any of those holes need to be plugged? it looks like in the pic above me that those holes were plugged after you cut off the blade?

[copenhagen311]

no that pic shows the top of the blade the part u cut off is on the bottom all i did was cut sand down the burrs lwft over and reinstalled no holes were filled or damaged during the project

[556mm]

oh ok cool. is it hard to reinstall the blade after youre finished with the mod? can i just use sandpaper and elbow grease to get rid of the excess metal after cutting the blade off? i dont have a a highpower sander.

[Merritt]

as long as you don't remove the whole blade then you don't have to fill any holes, i don't know if sandpaper would work or not, you can use a file though

[copenhagen311]

there isnt alot to remove if u cut it right..a file or some sand paper on a block will work start coarse then go to fine and you will be ok .its not a hard metal at all you can bend it with yer hand..and its very easy to reinstall just open the throttle and stick it back in there and screw it down

[Yogi]

Quote: Originally Posted by copenhagen311

here is that the top looks like it appears to me the nipple holds it on with those open lookin holes and 2 more little ones? i guess i should say this is off a 2003 4.3 auto with no cruise control dont know if it makes a diff or not

That makes it real clear. Thanks!

[copenhagen311]

just cause im bored and i feel like whorein it up this is what it looks like installed

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by LeSabreUltra

Aside from an actual dyno run, if that isn't genuine proof that there is additional low end power to be found from this, I don't know what is.

Exactly. I don't know where people get off stating that there's "absolutely no power gains from this mod". They say it all the time and it's just plain stupid. If there are no power gains from doing this mod, then you wouldn't notice jack-shit when driving it after the mod.

And it's not a "trick" because you notice a better throttle response. Throttle response doesn't mean dick when you're already cruising down the road.

The ONLY way you would notice any improvement in performance if this didn't add any extra power is if you took some weight off the vehicle to make it lighter.

[Yogi]

I've read a lot about this mod, and it seems that the ppl that claim power increases see it at part throttle. I haven't seen anyone claim, yet, that it lowered their 1/4 mi. or added top end power on the dyno. The naysayers claim that the flow through the stock TB at WOT is not improved.

I have run HP Tuners logs on my Blazer while doing zero to 80 mph, and one of the sensors that it logs is the MAP. On mine, the MAP is indicating 96kpa at 4912 rpm (WOT) which increases to 99kpa as the tranny shifts and the rpm drops to 3244 rpm. Atmospheric pressure is 100 kpa so there isn't much room for improvement.

So, does it improve power? Apparently so, at part throttle; but maybe not at WOT.

[copenhagen311]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlazerChops

And it's not a "trick" because you notice a better throttle response. Throttle response doesn't mean dick when you're already cruising down the road.
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exactly man i noticed a huge improvement now it doesnt lag at all off the line feels more powerful and the fact i dont have to constantly floor it to pass or get up to speed helps alot shifts a hell of allot firmer and just over all feels like a new truck..

id like to know exactly the point of that stupid blade cause if i ever own a blazer or another s-10 i will ccut that bitch off in the parking lot of the dealer cause that lagg shit pisses me off i hate being able to hit the gas and nothing then bam it catches

[556mm]

Quote: Originally Posted by Merritj2417

as long as you don't remove the whole blade then you don't have to fill any holes, i don't know if sandpaper would work or not, you can use a file though

what do you mean "as long as you don't remove the whole blade"

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

So, does it improve power? Apparently so, at part throttle; but maybe not at WOT.

Well I've never said anything about WOT. Besides, who drives around all day at WOT? With these 4.3 motors, you'd get like 60 miles to a tank. LOL

And I'm not so sure about not noticing anything at WOT with this mod either. Once the ECU adjusts for this mod, I know for a fact that the engine freely revs and builds to 5000 rpm and drops off after 5000 rpm whereas before it would hit a platoue between 3500 and 5000 rpm, then start dropping after 5000 rpm.

That's not my imagination working there, and it's certainly not an effect of a better throttle response either. Don't get me wrong. I'm not saying that this mod gives you a blast of power between 3500-5000 rpm, just saying that the power keeps coming on steady until it hits 5000, then drops. Before the mod, it was like hitting a wall after 3500 rpm. Power delivery is much smoother and consistant now.

[noma98]

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

I've read a lot about this mod, and it seems that the ppl that claim power increases see it at part throttle. I haven't seen anyone claim, yet, that it lowered their 1/4 mi. or added top end power on the dyno. The naysayers claim that the flow through the stock TB at WOT is not improved.

I have run HP Tuners logs on my Blazer while doing zero to 80 mph, and one of the sensors that it logs is the MAP. On mine, the MAP is indicating 96kpa at 4912 rpm (WOT) which increases to 99kpa as the tranny shifts and the rpm drops to 3244 rpm. Atmospheric pressure is 100 kpa so there isn't much room for improvement.

So, does it improve power? Apparently so, at part throttle; but maybe not at WOT.

Whats the CFM requirements of a 4.3?
What CFM flow at 20 inches of vacuum does the stock TB flow?
What is the defusers purpose?
Why does the 5.7 and 6.6 from the same years, same intake offset, same bore size TB also have a smaller defuser? The only thing added is a coolant passage to help with deicing.

Why do you get any change, seem like there is a part throttle pickup?
Easy as pie!!! You've changed how much air can enter per throttle position. As the throttle opens that defuser impeded flow somewhat and the more it opened the more flow that was impeded. So versus before your flowing more air than previously, thats the pants feel. Lets just say at 5% opening it before flowed 5%, now its been changed to 8% at that 5% opening.Plus the fact the ECM has not fully retuned for the changes and leaner is MEANER, part 2 of pants feel. All you've done is lose throttle needs for air requirements, but the TPS still remains the same in its asking for fuel and timing. Yes the 02 sensors via the MAF will slowly learn this and adjust, but the timing curve will remain the same since the voltage output of the TPS remains unchanged.

Why does it seem more alive after 3500 rpmish.
Well its purpose made the motor respond with a nice smooth power response.
Removing its created such a difference in being smooth in lower rpms that when certain functions shut down, which just happens to be the same rpm area, the motor comes back to life again making it appear that the intake which usually falls flat of its face just over 4000 rpms has new life. Add to the fact that at this same rpm area, all the air flow requirements for 5500 RPM have been allready met, but the TPS was telling the ECM stock timing call outs, not full timing, so now after this 3500 the position where enough opening of the throttle is there for 5400 rpms, you now grab the timing needed to actually get 5400 rpms, its like a sling shot feel.


Its all in the head which is taking its cue from a ASS!!!!

I know men think with their dicks at times!!

[noma98]

There used to be another mod similar to this out.
It was a Casper Electronics TPS enhancer.
This item plugged in between your input line of the TPS and the TPS.
It would add 10% more voltage until 75% throttle opening and at 75% throttle opening it would output 100%.
The ECM uses this output voltage to determine fuel flow and timing. So having more voltage than before at the same positions, you got more timing and more fuel, just not the air required. Got the same ass feel as this does, but also didn't last once the ECM learned it.
While your at it, port the MAF and remove its center bar function which in turn makes the MAF no longer a restrictional piece, since then it would be larger than the throttle body in bore size.

I don't know.

I see guys dick's getting them in enough trouble and now you want your ass to think for you's???

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by noma98

Its all in the head which is taking its cue from a ASS!!!!

Sure kid, whatever you say...

[BlazerChops]

Quote: Originally Posted by noma98

I don't know.

Exactly!

[copenhagen311]

noma98 i dont know why yer so dead against this mod but here is a idea instead of sayin we are all thinkin with our dicks..either say im glad yall like this mod but i dont see the point im not doin it..

but instead u have to be a jerk and not try to have a rational debate about it but i just want u to know that no matter what u may think it does make a difference hey here is a idea go to a junk yard bet a tb blade cut the damn thing up install it and try it for a week .If u still think omgzzz this is lame install yer stock one back on and then u can see its not my dick tellin me nothing..

good day
happy 4th of july
hope my dick dont get me in trouble today

[BlazerChops]

I got my dick in trouble one time...