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Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

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Old 08-31-2003, 09:23 AM   #1
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Talking Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Of course there are a lot of threads on this board and all the other s10 boards regarding electric fans, flexalites, and clutch.... Everyone has their own experiences and doing a search for fans bring up a multitude of threads and opinions... I figured I would throw my hat into the ring for informational purposes... Opinions may vary, but like assholes, everyone has an opinion....

Since I did my 3" Trailmaster body lift on my 1st gen I installed a 15" Hayden/Imperial e-fan because my clutch fan didn't line up with the radiator anymore and I didn't want to relocate the rad.... It seemed to work well for my 4.3 CPI Vortec... Well, that is until you ran the AC... When running the AC and being stuck in City traffic (Pittsburgh Rush hour) and blowing steam out of my rad 3 times.... Not seeing a justification for the price of the dual magic fan ($200.00) or even a used LS1 fan ($125.00) I decided to hunt down the popular Taurus dual speed electric fan.... After finding one (there were several) in my local wrecking yard, I picked one up for $35.00 (a bargain considering my hayden/imperial cost me 80 bux from Advance Autoparts)...

Since I already had my thermostat wiring, power, diodes in place for my hayden (using the s-seriesforum.org efan how-to for the wiring) I simply removed the top portion of my OEM 4.3 fan shroud and cut the zip/fin ties that held my Hayden/Imperial 15" fan on. (These are the same ones that come with most fans, they can be bought seperatly at advance for $2.00 for a pack of 4).

Taking my new/used 1996 Taurus 3.8 e-fan I lined it up against the rad and as everyone else claimed it fit damn near perfect. Only thing is you will have only an inch or so of space between the old fan studs on the water pump. If you feel unconfortable with this, simply gind off the excess studs down to the nuts.

I then drilled 2 holes on the top lip of the e-fan shroud and on either side of the lower cowling to run my sips through. Relingned the fan again against the radiator and drilled matching holes along the top side braces on the rad. Ran all the zips through the top and the fins towards the bottom and secured tightly... Replaced my oem fan shroud (with no cutting needed) to rebrace the top of the radiator...(I only used the OEM shroud because I was too lazy to fab my own braces for the rad).

I rewired my relays for dual speed (rather easy because I used edge connectors for all my wiring) and made new power connectors for the taurus fan. (It had the oem pigtail on it that I didn't want to cut it, it only took an additional 10 mins of making those connectors).

So I was ready to fire the fan up again (I had tested functionality with bare wires to the battery on the high and the low side and it was 93 degrees out). Started my truck and kicked the ac on just to fire the fan on the high side, worked fine)... After letting my truck warm up to operating tempreture and watching the readout on the Scantool (wasn't taking chances with my bargraph digitial dash temp because I wanted EXACT readings) I allowed the truck to climb to 200 degrees farenheit. Adjusting the themostat to come on at just below that (195) I let the truck idle in the driveway for about 25 minutes. The temp according to the scantool didn't get above 191 on low speed kick on. (low speed comes on at around 185 degrees farenheit). So I drove it hard around the area for about 10 mins watching the temp readout on the Scantool, and it only hit 195 once and immediately backed down to 190-191) Parking it back at my house I then put it to the real test, switcing on MAX AC, I let it sit and idle (This is with the hood closed) and doing work around the garage and cleaning up tools I popped my head inside the car every few mins to look at the scan tool... Still holding at 191 degrees farenheit!!! I decided to take a chance and go in the house and check my email, get some coffee, and have a cigarette... Forcing myself to stay in the house for almost 45 mins... I walked outside and checked the Scantool...It was at 192 degrees farenheit! (I'm not gonna quibble over a degree or 2)

Then I started thinking, is my sensor actually good? So as a final test I cut power to the fan and withing 2 minutes I was at a whopping 220 degrees farenheit! Arrg, damn thing works, I plug the power back in and watch the Scantool... Within 45 Seconds it was at 202 degrees, then in another minute it was back at 191. (This was with AC on). So I now know that my sensor works properly and I'm quite happy with the speed of the cool down aspect of this fan...

There is some debate on this fan as to the CFM output. I've seen everything from 2500-4000 with nothing definitive. I plan on talking to the local ford dealer and getting exact specs...

The bottom line is that I feel this is a good mod and a good fan overall. It's simple, it will work on any 4, 6, 8 cyl engine on any 1st or second gen truck. (Provided you have the engine cavity room on the 8 cyl). Wiring is simple, mounting is simple, you free up a few ponies by not having the engine drag of a clutch fan, it's quiet (no jet noise) and it's cheap!

My truck now runs at a solid tempreture instead of fluctuating wildly between 190 and 220 which I hope will translate into better/consistant gas miledge..we shall see. below I will post some pics including the s-seriesforum diagram which was well thought out. If you use the diagram, ignore the diode spec, any diode with a 5watt 500 volt load or better will work fine...It's just a diode...


Pictures of Taurus fan in my 1st gen 92 Blazer with a 4.3 Vortec CPI motor.

Note the space of the water pump studs from the fan... It actually is more than enough room, but you can grind them down to nuts..



A direct down shot of the same thing... Better perspective



This is a pic of my relays. I bolted them to the fender well. Note the use of covers and heatshrink. Also these relays are meant to be used for all purpose weather because they are sealed...Try not to use cheap relays that aren't epoxy sealed...



A Pic of my thermostat. The probe is attached the the rad about 2 inches from the inbound flow of the rad (hottest part of the radiator) The control unit is also attached to the fenderwell. I have 2 30 amp fuses inline. (You can use a single 50 amp fuse if you prefer) You can pick up this thermostat for $15.00 at your local Advance autoparts store...


Last edited by rlith; 08-31-2003 at 09:26 AM.
Old 08-31-2003, 09:24 AM   #2
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s-seriesforum diagram...

Old 08-31-2003, 09:26 AM   #3
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I hope this thread helps people. Perhaps if enough interest is generated it can be made a sticky so we can get some of the redundant threads from getting started...
Old 08-31-2003, 04:53 PM   #4
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If you live anywhere that the outside temps get over 100 Id suggest going up to the Mustang fan like I have. Its basically the same as the Taurus fan but with 18" blades instead of 16". Even when it was 115-118 here my engine temp never got over 210 with a/c and in traffic. If the temp is under 105 then engine stays between 180-190. It almost covers the whole radiator and it was great to get rid of the fan shrouds. Plus the a/c works alot better because there is constant airflow over the condencer. The only down side is I had to go to a HO alternator because my stock one couldnt handl it when the fan was on hi, the a/c was on and the headlights. The engine would almost stall.
Old 08-31-2003, 05:11 PM   #5
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That seems to be working out good. I'm running a flexi 60.
It works good, but if it craps I'll go with this, and I never thought
I'd ever say this, Ford Tarus fan mod. I just wonder if getting
a 180 temp switch and putting it in one of the head's water galley
ports wouldn't make things a lil easier as far as turning the fan
on. I understand there would have to be something for the fan
to come when the A/C is kicked in. Maybe wire the low speed for
the water, and the hi speed for the A/C. I don't know.

Had no idea the NE rusted stuff up like it does..I guess that roadsalt really eats up steel.
Old 08-31-2003, 07:14 PM   #6
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just get an adjustable thermostat and attach it to the fins next to the inbound waterhose on the radiator (the hottest point) then wire part of it to the ac switch (see diagram) that way it will only come on when needed or when you hit the AC...
Old 08-31-2003, 07:24 PM   #7
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what would work in a fullsize chevy with a 350? i'm thinking of getting a fullsize truck(s-10 goes to my dad).
Old 08-31-2003, 07:48 PM   #8
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All I can say for efans is, if you have hte money get the 210 or LS1 fans otherwise the taurus fan is the way to go.

It was around 95*-98* where I was last week, and I had the A/C on MAX. And my driving style aka nuts well it stayed right where it normaly is at behind the first line on the temp gauge. Meaning it never went over 165 or so. I am soo pleased with my 210 setup.

To any1 with out an efan, it is a great mod very cheap $35 and can be VERY effective, even better than the stock clutch in some situations.

Last edited by 96s10; 08-31-2003 at 07:48 PM.
Old 08-31-2003, 07:50 PM   #9
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ls1's and the taurus push about the same amount of cfm's 3000-3500... It boils down to what works for you astheticly and costwise.... I think for the cost the taurus was the better choice, they wanted 150 for the ls1 fan from a 99 trans-am
Old 08-31-2003, 10:10 PM   #10
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Only thing I see to think about is the current draw starting that fan on high speed with the AC. I have a Contour fan on mine that draws 100 amps on direct high speed startup. I wired the AC and a temp switch to the low speed with dash switch for high. Have yet to need the high speed here in So. Ohio, but this is a 2.8.
Old 08-31-2003, 10:17 PM   #11
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I measured the immediate amp draw when kicking on, it didn't go over 26 amps, drawing only 14.3 amps at normal run...(atleast that was what my meter read)
Old 09-03-2003, 07:15 AM   #12
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Old 09-03-2003, 08:50 PM   #13
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tom3--
100 amps ??? Are you sure ?
That's 1200 watts!
Old 09-03-2003, 09:31 PM   #14
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sorry, typo, 26 startup around 14 continuous running
Old 09-04-2003, 05:51 PM   #15
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another excellent fan is the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. I have one in my mustang and cools like nobody's business. they can be a bit pricey, but they cool much better than the taurus, late mustang fans. just a thought.
Old 05-19-2005, 01:02 PM   #16
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Will a e fan off a newer Ford Tarus?? And what guage wire should i run to the fan for power??
Old 05-19-2005, 02:17 PM   #17
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

A few questions... what guage wire did you use for everything?

Also, what switched 12+ source did you use? I used the wire that goes to my abs. It's fused, so I figure if something happens, I can just replace the fuse.

I'm having one big problem with mine too, and I can't really pinpoint what it is. The fan turns on fine on low speed when I start my truck, and the thermostat makes it kick up to high when it needs to as well. The problem I'm having is that when the temp gets high enough and the high speed has been running for a minute or two, the fan just completely shuts off. It doesn't even go back to low. After a minute or two of being off, it switches back on to high for about 20-25 seconds, then back off again. It keeps doing this, and the engine heats up pretty quick without any air blowing through. When the temp is low enough and the high speed isn't needed, the low speed stays on fine. Could this be bad wiring, or maybe a bad relay? The high speed also switches on fine when I turn the A/C on, but it does the same thing and eventually keeps cycling on an off. I originally thought it had something to do with the A/C, but it even does it with the A/C off.

I'm not trying to whore the thread, I just thought this would be a good place for anyone who needs to troubleshoot as well.

edit: i just thought about it more. I do have a circuit breaker for the power source. I can't remember what amperage. It's either 30 or 50. Either way, if it flips it resets itself...so could it be possible that the circuit breaker is being thrown then resetting itself and doing that when the fan is on high speed? I'm not good at troubleshooting electrical problems. Doh!

Last edited by mat1583; 05-19-2005 at 02:33 PM.
Old 05-19-2005, 04:08 PM   #18
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

alright, I double checked the diagram. There was only one thing different. Instead of splicing the two wires that go from the 30 on the relays to the circuit breaker, I just put ring connects on the ends of each wire and connected both to the same post on the circuit breaker. Is that not the same as if you just spliced them together and put one connector onto the post? I'm not sure about it.
Old 05-19-2005, 07:13 PM   #19
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith
just get an adjustable thermostat and attach it to the fins next to the inbound waterhose on the radiator (the hottest point) then wire part of it to the ac switch (see diagram) that way it will only come on when needed or when you hit the AC...

rlith - did you mount your temp probe under the efan shroud or outside it? The fan I have has room to do either - Thx Jeff
Old 05-19-2005, 11:50 PM   #20
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by mat1583
alright, I double checked the diagram. There was only one thing different. Instead of splicing the two wires that go from the 30 on the relays to the circuit breaker, I just put ring connects on the ends of each wire and connected both to the same post on the circuit breaker. Is that not the same as if you just spliced them together and put one connector onto the post? I'm not sure about it.
Don't see why that wouldn't work. If a line in spliced into another that is routed to
the circuit breaker, that's two lines going into one to the breaker. Instead of splicing
the line into the other one and running just it to the breaker, you elected to run
both to the breaker eliminating the splice. Sounds right to me, but the Doctor
says I'm slowly losing it, so take my reply for what its worth..

I do think you may have to get a lil bigger breaker, like a 40 or 50 maybe. Maybe
not, but why not try it and see what happens. You can always go back to the 30.

Last edited by bg's; 05-19-2005 at 11:53 PM.
Old 05-19-2005, 11:58 PM   #21
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by bg's
Don't see why that wouldn't work. If a line in spliced into another that is routed to
the circuit breaker, that's two lines going into one to the breaker. Instead of splicing
the line into the other one and running just it to the breaker, you elected to run
both to the breaker eliminating the splice. Sounds right to me, but the Doctor
says I'm slowly losing it, so take my reply for what its worth..

I do think you may have to get a lil bigger breaker, like a 40 or 50 maybe. Maybe
not, but why not try it and see what happens. You can always go back to the 30.
See, that's what I was thinking. I'm an engineer, but not an EE. I can't remember if I used a 30 or a 50 though. I guess i'll just have to check the part number when I get a chance.
Old 05-20-2005, 01:43 AM   #22
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Very nice write up, rlith.It was very informative, and I second that it should be made into a sticky.
Old 05-20-2005, 01:44 AM   #23
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Rust is a BIG problem in Pennsylvania I live in Erie, about 100 miles north of Pittsburgh I had to replace the right front fender & use a patch panel to rebuild the left rear wheelwell. This year it looks like I will have to repair the right rear wheelwell & both cab corners. Living in California definitely has its advantages when it comes to body repair.
Old 05-20-2005, 05:59 AM   #24
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by CapmCatastrophy
Very nice write up, rlith.It was very informative, and I second that it should be made into a sticky.
Old 05-20-2005, 06:53 AM   #25
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by old s-10 owner
Rust is a BIG problem in Pennsylvania I live in Erie, about 100 miles north of Pittsburgh I had to replace the right front fender & use a patch panel to rebuild the left rear wheelwell. This year it looks like I will have to repair the right rear wheelwell & both cab corners. Living in California definitely has its advantages when it comes to body repair.
What does rust have to do with the fan and wiring???
Old 05-20-2005, 06:56 AM   #26
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by mat1583
alright, I double checked the diagram. There was only one thing different. Instead of splicing the two wires that go from the 30 on the relays to the circuit breaker, I just put ring connects on the ends of each wire and connected both to the same post on the circuit breaker. Is that not the same as if you just spliced them together and put one connector onto the post? I'm not sure about it.
Actually I have a revised diagram.... And no, you want to connect #30 directly to the battery, NOT to a circuit breaker. (just use an inline fuse)

Old 05-20-2005, 06:56 AM   #27
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

True, the taurus fan kicks serious amounts of ass, and air too, lol.
Old 05-20-2005, 07:02 AM   #28
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

the 16" taurus fan i believe does 3000 cfm, but what does the 18" mustang fan do cfm wise?

Last edited by DevilDriver; 05-20-2005 at 07:06 AM.
Old 05-20-2005, 07:04 AM   #29
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by Punk0Rama
the 16" taurus fan i belive does 3000 cfm, but what does the 18" mustang fan do cfm wise?
Dunno about the mustang fan, but the taurus does 2800 cfm on low, and 3800 cfm on high
Old 05-20-2005, 07:20 AM   #30
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith
Actually I have a revised diagram.... And no, you want to connect #30 directly to the battery, NOT to a circuit breaker. (just use an inline fuse)

Inline fuse/circuit breaker...same thing. A circuit breaker has the same funtion except instead of blowing and having to replace the fuse over and over, the circuit breaker just automatically resets after a certain period of time. That new diagram does look a little simpler, so maybe I'll try to rewire it.

ok, it looks like the difference between that new one and the first one is that in the 2nd diagram, you're connecting the 87 from the low relay to the 30 of the high relay, and 87a of the high relay to the low side of the fan. That makes enough sense. So if the ignition source is on and thermostat low, it will stay on low. As soon as you switch on the a/c or thermostat goes to high, it till toggle the relay to the high side (87 on the high relay). I'm getting better at these diagrams.

Last edited by mat1583; 05-20-2005 at 07:32 AM.
Old 05-20-2005, 07:21 AM   #31
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by mat1583
Inline fuse/circuit breaker...same thing. A circuit breaker has the same funtion except instead of blowing and having to replace the fuse over and over, the circuit breaker just automatically resets after a certain period of time. That new diagram does look a little simpler, so maybe I'll try to rewire it.
actually, they are not the same thing and not all circuit breakers automatically reset.
Old 05-20-2005, 07:40 AM   #32
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by Punk0Rama
actually, they are not the same thing and not all circuit breakers automatically reset.
Also, as I said, always run the fan power directly to the battery... You don't want that load on the harness.
Old 05-20-2005, 08:09 AM   #33
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by Punk0Rama
actually, they are not the same thing and not all circuit breakers automatically reset.
What's the difference? Like I said, I'm not an electrician. I just thought they serve the same purpose. And yeah, you're right. They don't all automatically reset. Sorry. The one I use does however.
Old 05-20-2005, 08:46 AM   #34
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

A circuit breaker and a fuse serve the same funtion and are practically the same thing, except they use different technologies (like I thought). A 30 amp fuse can be replaced by an automatically resetting 30 amp circuit breaker and save a lot of time and hassle replacing blown fuses.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-...it-breaker.htm
Old 05-20-2005, 12:23 PM   #35
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Will the e fan off a mustang wire like the e fan off a tarus. All of the taruses i find have dual fans. I foud a 3.8 mustang fan and it looked about like the pic of teh tarus fan. Just wondering.
Old 05-20-2005, 02:14 PM   #36
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Problem solved...FINALLY. the circuit breaker I was using was indeed a 30 amp, so i switched it out with a 40 amp, and it worked like a charm. No more fan shutting off. Nice, cool A/C. Ah, lovely
Old 05-20-2005, 02:18 PM   #37
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by mat1583
A circuit breaker and a fuse serve the same funtion and are practically the same thing, except they use different technologies (like I thought). A 30 amp fuse can be replaced by an automatically resetting 30 amp circuit breaker and save a lot of time and hassle replacing blown fuses.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-...it-breaker.htm
i never said a circuit breaker and fuse serve different functions, i just said they are not the same thing

keep in mind that the reason that inline fuse's are used more often in cars is because circuit breakers do not have a particularly long life line within the daily driver. too much motion, too much climactic change.
Old 05-20-2005, 02:26 PM   #38
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by Punk0Rama
i never said a circuit breaker and fuse serve different functions, i just said they are not the same thing

keep in mind that the reason that inline fuse's are used more often in cars is because circuit breakers do not have a particularly long life line within the daily driver. too much motion, too much climactic change.
lol, technicalities. I've never heard of circuit breakers having a shorter life than fuses. I mean, the auto circuit breakers are built for that type of use. But anywho...

I still think the circuit breaker is a better choice. Since i used the circle connects on the wires, I was able to change it out in less than 5 minutes. Plus, it only cost me 2.50. Either way, it's working now so i'm happy
Old 05-20-2005, 03:34 PM   #39
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by 89yellows10
Will the e fan off a mustang wire like the e fan off a tarus. All of the taruses i find have dual fans. I foud a 3.8 mustang fan and it looked about like the pic of teh tarus fan. Just wondering.
They mostly wire up the same. The issue is how it's going to mount to the s10 radiator. Look for a 96/97 taurus fan. They are all dual speed, single fans.
Old 05-20-2005, 03:34 PM   #40
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by mat1583
Problem solved...FINALLY. the circuit breaker I was using was indeed a 30 amp, so i switched it out with a 40 amp, and it worked like a charm. No more fan shutting off. Nice, cool A/C. Ah, lovely
Are you starting the fan on high or low?
Old 05-20-2005, 03:39 PM   #41
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith
Are you starting the fan on high or low?
The fan starts on the low side, switches on high when the temp goes high enough and when the A/C is switched on.
Old 05-20-2005, 03:41 PM   #42
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

One other silly question, you do have it wired so that when the high side kicks on, the power is cut to the low side?
Old 05-20-2005, 03:56 PM   #43
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith
One other silly question, you do have it wired so that when the high side kicks on, the power is cut to the low side?
I used this wiring diagram for the dual speed...



I don't see why the power for the low side would need to be 'turned off'. There's only one motor for the fan and two speeds for that motor, so if the high speed relay is toggled, the power is going to the high side. If it's on low speed, the power is going to the low side. Isn't that how it works?

Just for extra info...i just read in a couple places that the Taurus dual speed fan draws about 35 amps on high speed, so that's why it kept flipping my 30 amp circuit breaker. Doesn't flip with the 40 now.

Last edited by mat1583; 05-20-2005 at 04:17 PM.
Old 04-28-2007, 01:34 PM   #44
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

OK im wiring mine using the second of the first diagrams posted. (the dual speed)

From what it looks like, the low will be on constant and then high when it gets to a certain temp or ac......What i want is the low to come on when the thermostat reaches the temp and high to come on with ac.. or is that how it is in the diagram?

Help fast please.
Thanks.
Old 04-29-2007, 10:32 AM   #45
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

use this one instead

Old 05-18-2007, 01:28 PM   #46
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

OK im a little pissed. I used the diagram and the damn high speed wont come on unless its up to operating temp.

WHat the hell is the point of that? AC isnt even going to work unless the fan comes on/....

Let me know, im almost positive every thing is wired up correctly.


chad.
Old 05-18-2007, 04:38 PM   #47
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by rlith
use this one instead


where do the 2 wires go with the boxes that start off "completing this circuit..."? it seems like the other set of schematics are a good bit easier to understand

Last edited by tisyaboytd; 05-18-2007 at 04:40 PM.
Old 05-18-2007, 04:40 PM   #48
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by superbee
OK im a little pissed. I used the diagram and the damn high speed wont come on unless its up to operating temp.

WHat the hell is the point of that? AC isnt even going to work unless the fan comes on/....

Let me know, im almost positive every thing is wired up correctly.


chad.
Actually, in either diagram, if you have it wired correctly, the AC will force the fan to come on high and cut low, . whereas the temp sensor will start the low side when reaching temp. The fan isn't required for AC though

Last edited by rlith; 05-18-2007 at 04:44 PM.
Old 05-18-2007, 04:41 PM   #49
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

Quote: Originally Posted by tisyaboytd
where do the 2 wires go with the boxes that start off "completing this circuit..."? it seems like the other set of schematics are a good bit easier to understand
Well, look at your options in the boxes. You can use either a thermostat or ac relay or ignition or manual switch in either locations
Old 05-18-2007, 05:32 PM   #50
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Re: Hayden/Imperial vs Taurus E-Fans: My Review

ahhhhhhhhh ok i get it now... Im at work and never really looked at it too too good.

so best 2 to use would be thermostat and ac relay right?
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