Fuel pump removal / installation - S-10 Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-15-2009, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump removal / installation

I've got a 97 GMC Sonoma 4.3L - and a couple months ago it felt like someone pinched the fuel line off if I went WOT. It simply hit a wall around 3k rpm. So a buddy and myself changed the fuel filter. HUGE difference! Problem solved. Or so I thought.

The past 2-3 weeks, the truck has taken 5-10 tries to start from cold. Key on, hear the pump prime, crank - nothin. Rinse, wash, repeat. Then finally it'd start up and run just fine until it sat for a few hours, then I'd have to go through the embarrassing ritual again. Finally got out my fuel pressure gauge, and engine off, key on, it tested at 50psi. Same thing when it was running at idle. It would increase with RPM, but topped out around 62psi WOT @ 5k. Figured this is on the low side pressure-wise, so I ordered a pump assembly. Hopefully that'll solve the problem.

At any rate, I've read about removing the bed to install the pump from the top. Also the (maybe) more traditional method of dropping the tank. Both of which seem fairly easy, but would take patience - which is in short supply as of late. So I decided to cut an access panel in the bed. Took some measurements from underneath, marked it in the bed, and got out the 4½" grinder w/ a metal cutting blade. Before starting, I put a small piece of wood on top of the tank to cover the pump and hoses, just in case the blade went through the bed too easily. All went well. Took about 20 minutes. I'm still waiting on the pump assembly to arrive, but I'm ready for it now!

The access panel is 10" wide, 8" long, and 15" out from the driver side bed wall. It's also 5" away from the cab side of the bed. This allowed the cuts not to damage the structural support "beams" under the bed itself.

There's a pic attached with measurements. Hopefully this helps someone else, because I was hard pressed to find any specific info about this particular method of FP access other than "I cut a hole in the bed of my truck."

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post #2 of 16 Old 09-15-2009, 07:39 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

I see all the detail and specifics you give...yet you complain about a lack of patience???

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post #3 of 16 Old 10-09-2009, 05:42 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

Having a simaller issue. I have minimal pressure to the spider assembly, If i dump fuel down the throttle body, it starts right up. I looked like a idiot the other day whaling at the fuel tank with my fist trying to bump the fuel pump to kick on. and hour later it work'ed. LMAO
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-09-2009, 07:49 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

Wow..nice! have an access panel!
p.s. what cab and bed length was this?

Last edited by Bills Dad; 10-09-2009 at 07:51 PM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-09-2009, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

It's a reg cab short bed :-)

Oh, and the new fuel pump fixed my starting issues completely. Feels like it runs a little stronger through the rpm range, too. No real surprise there though.
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post #6 of 16 Old 11-13-2009, 10:21 AM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

I always wondered why car makers don't do this when they design vehicles. I bet 9 out of 10 cars/trucks could have been built with a panel over the damn things!! All that college is a waste!


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post #7 of 16 Old 11-13-2009, 11:42 AM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

Since the thread was brought back, for my 95 S10. We just unbolted the bed bolts and took a 4x4 and a 4x2 I think? and lifted the bed up on the fuel pump side and put those between the frame and the bed. Make sure that the other side inner fender hits the back of the wheel (so it will stay in place). It might of just worked out with me because I got 20's?
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-14-2009, 01:59 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

some cars do have a panel

some acuras

ford contours

etc

been there seen them, replaced pumps on them

acura ones are in the trunk

contour ones are under the back seat

i have no bed on my s10 and so it take about 8 minutes to replace the pump on it

in which i had to do three times a couple months ago, all within the same week.


haha

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post #9 of 16 Old 11-18-2009, 10:29 AM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

the only problem with the access hole method is if there is crap in your tank you have to drop it anyways to clean it. I took the bed off, made it real easy, until I saw a bunch of water / oil in my tank, I dropped it and took out 4 2 liter Pepsi bottles of remaining gas/ oil / water out. it separated out in the bottles and looks nasty as hell, there was a lot of water and oil in the gas, I have never put additives in my tank and there was this big green bouncy ball? the only way it could have gotten in there is at the factory there is no other way it could have gotten in?
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post #10 of 16 Old 11-18-2009, 04:35 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

I recently changed the fuel pump on my 2000 blazer. My only advise is, buy tank straps when you get the pump. You will more than likely need them. If not you can always take them back.
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post #11 of 16 Old 11-23-2009, 05:59 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

I need part # for 99 zr2 4.3 fuel pump this is my first post can anyone help
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post #12 of 16 Old 11-23-2009, 06:29 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by vielecustoms View Post

there was this big green bouncy ball? the only way it could have gotten in there is at the factory there is no other way it could have gotten in?
The green ball fits into the lower-most section of the fill pipe so if/when the truck were to flip, the gas won't come out. I'm glad we put ours back in the correct spot too, since my son barrel rolled it on its top
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-09-2010, 11:24 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation (S-10 1997)

I just today cut a square out of the bed of my truck to get to the fuel pump. I am waiting to get a new one (actually it's used). This will be the third time I am replacing the fuel pump on my 1997 Chevy S-10 4.3 V-6 Vortec. Also the fuel pumps I bought before this one were brand new. When I changed the fuel filter (which I did not change until the 2nd fuel pump went out), had this blackish/brownish poor out of it when I drained it. I think the fuel filter was plugged causing the fuel pump to over work and eventually fried the motor. I just hope the Truck works after I put the other fuel pump in. I have a couple pics of the cut out in the bed for the fuel pump.

-Aaron
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post #14 of 16 Old 09-08-2010, 03:19 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

i know this is an OLD thread, but how easily does the pump come out? Do you twist and pull or just pull it out? Is there alot of fuel that pours out?

i have this same exact issue as the OP, and need to fix asap. want to make sure im not getting in over my head.

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post #15 of 16 Old 01-07-2012, 08:51 AM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

Thanks licken2 . i was looking for this info and was afraid to ask because i didn't want to defend my reasons for not taking the bed off. could this go any wider or longer without hitting frame? i am in welding school right now, and i can easily fabricate the hatch door after I'm done.
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post #16 of 16 Old 05-03-2012, 07:23 PM
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Re: Fuel pump removal / installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by licken2 View Post
I've got a 97 GMC Sonoma 4.3L - and a couple months ago it felt like someone pinched the fuel line off if I went WOT. It simply hit a wall around 3k rpm. So a buddy and myself changed the fuel filter. HUGE difference! Problem solved. Or so I thought.

The past 2-3 weeks, the truck has taken 5-10 tries to start from cold. Key on, hear the pump prime, crank - nothin. Rinse, wash, repeat. Then finally it'd start up and run just fine until it sat for a few hours, then I'd have to go through the embarrassing ritual again. Finally got out my fuel pressure gauge, and engine off, key on, it tested at 50psi. Same thing when it was running at idle. It would increase with RPM, but topped out around 62psi WOT @ 5k. Figured this is on the low side pressure-wise, so I ordered a pump assembly. Hopefully that'll solve the problem.

At any rate, I've read about removing the bed to install the pump from the top. Also the (maybe) more traditional method of dropping the tank. Both of which seem fairly easy, but would take patience - which is in short supply as of late. So I decided to cut an access panel in the bed. Took some measurements from underneath, marked it in the bed, and got out the 4½" grinder w/ a metal cutting blade. Before starting, I put a small piece of wood on top of the tank to cover the pump and hoses, just in case the blade went through the bed too easily. All went well. Took about 20 minutes. I'm still waiting on the pump assembly to arrive, but I'm ready for it now!

The access panel is 10" wide, 8" long, and 15" out from the driver side bed wall. It's also 5" away from the cab side of the bed. This allowed the cuts not to damage the structural support "beams" under the bed itself.

There's a pic attached with measurements. Hopefully this helps someone else, because I was hard pressed to find any specific info about this particular method of FP access other than "I cut a hole in the bed of my truck."
my truck was bucking due to a distributor issue. at same time it began to take 3 to 8 seconds or so to start up. i got the distributor fixed, but still has some issues starting. i knew it was not right, for 12 years the truck always started instantly. i suspected the fuel pump. i was right.

i used your picture to help cut hole in my bed (btw i have 98 extended cab w/ short bed) . i altered your dimensions slightly from looking at your picture. you have the only picture anywhere on the net for an S10.

now shes runnin smooth and she starts instantly. i sealed the hole water tight and all is good.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ....... P.S. THANK YOU FOR THE PIC.
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