If the clutch is not releasing completely it will be hard to shift. To see if it is the clutch, with the truck stopped and running in neutral, depress the clutch and shift into reverse. If it grinds the clutch is the problem.
If this is OK, then you can consider the transmission may be the problem. Fluid level first, if that's OK, then change it.
Changing the fluid isn't going to change the problem.
I can list more things that will cause this than I care to list.
Everything from a misfire, to a worn seperator plate in the trans.
Could be a TPS. Trans could be overheating, one or more clutches, or tcc may be slipping.
Could be broken accumulator springs or sticking or worn accumulator valves or pistons.
It could be anything causing the engine to require more throttle position to maintain rpm.
Theres a lot more.
I checked the fluid and it was clean and not burnt or anything the truck seems to run alright I have an evap code and sometimes it flashes for misfire but it seems to run alright when it does that,usually on the highway. I'm gonna see how it acts. I really don't want to have the tranny taken apart right now. I'll change the fluid if it acts up again but it hasn't after I drove it this morning. I'm honestly scared to mess with the tranny.Thanks for suggestions.
My 99 grand am trans was going bad for years all I did was take it easy from a stop and it never died. Every once in a while first would slip sometimes nothing there or I'd feel it chatter. There was another instance it started shifting hard banging into gear. Noticed my temp was reading low around 100 so I replaced the temp sensor. That didn't fix it ended up being a bad ground from the pcm so I grounded it to the engine. After that it shifted normal and my gauge worked.
Like Jay said, it could be a lot of different things to cause it. I had my tranny rebuilt (it had no 2nd, Od, or reverse), and it now shifts hard from 1st to 2nd, but only after I drive the highway at 55 or faster, for a few miles, but if I stop, turn the motor off for a minute, then drive again, it's fine again. No one can tell me why!
The most common cause it the 1-2 valve, it wears out the valve body and leaks pressure, they sell a over size plunger to fix it. But be sure it's your problem, before replacing it. It could be a waste of time, but maybe not!
I'd end up taking it to a tranny shop for that if it is. I baby the thing its got almost 186k on it. I took it out again-smooth as butter.I don't know how it could do it and than not with the same parts in it. WEIRD. I never knew about that complaint page tho. Thanks for that. I'll really have to go easy on her since it's a no.1 prblem. I'll keep you guys updated on it and I'll throw some more pics up so yall can see it.
So I'm out driving it now, its started up again since the fluid is clean I think I'm going to see how much the tranny shop wants to do the kit that was mentioned earlier.
Theres a fine line between internet predictions and actual troubleshooting. And at some point things need to be checked and not just talked about.
Going back to the statement that changing the transmission fluid never hurting anything. Sure it may help if the transmission filter seal was damaged during install and been sucking air since whenever it was done last.
If I have a problem like this I get out my tools and look at stuff.
Ok so I got the fluid flushed a while ago no problems since last night shifting hard again. Can anyone tell where I get and what kind of tools I'll need to install the 4L60E TransGo shift kit.
flushed? they replace the filter? check the pan/magnet for excessive filings?
someone mentined fuel above. I ant @$$ing ya, when I replaced my fuel pup, literally ALL of my misfires/codes/odd shifting, no power, everything disappeared...not saying its your issue, but may be worth checking fuel pump/filter and leakdown.
I'm seeing it is a tranny issue,trying to see if anyone has done this before. Fuel system is a separate issue as I see. I know I can see the difference with the engine running poorly (fuel pump problems) and a tranny slip.
In the valve body there's a tcc regulator valve that can cause your problem. The valve body bore wears causing hard shifting and can get codes also. It can be repaired but the tools needed make the cost more than just getting a new or reman valve body. Can't say 100% that's your problem but in a high milage trans that's otherwise working good I'd try a new valve body. If the trans ends up dying later on its one less thing you'll need to get for a rebuild.
Thanks for the info. The 1-2 is the issue there's also a good video on YouTube for the 4L60E. It looks pretty easy but following instructions correctly is critical. I have a little misfiring issue to, I was going to do everything at once. It shows an evap code,misfire code and high circuit voltage fuel pump. I know what the issues are separately and I don't see any of that causing it because every time it's slammed into second hard it was not running rough, it's easy to tell when it's missing, (lower rpm than it takes to shift into second)
Yeah it's actually 1-2 problem. Whoever told me it's the 1-2 is who hit it on the dot. It hasn't been doing it after cool down the last time I posted. I don't know what, but it was only doing it last time I mentioned night.
Before you go tearing into the trans, try a bottle of Seafoam TransTune. It may be something as simple as varnish buildup around the solenoids and accumulators.
Your ECM will command a shift and watch the RPM. If the shift does not happen it will raise line pressure until the shift happens. If the trans shifts are delayed and slam, that could be the problem. Doesn't hurt to use the transtune to clean the trans before you dump the fluid again to replace the valvebody anyway. I run transtune on all my older vehicles and have brought several co-worker's trans back from the "dead" with it.
One other thing to check, put a voltmeter or test light on the TRANS fuse in the dash. I have seen older s-series ignition switches cause problems w/ getting power down to the trans and them having issues like this. It's so intermittent that you can just about not duplicate it. If you can't check the fuse, and the problem is repeatable, try wiggling your keys while the engine is running and see if the problem disappears.