5w 30 vs. 10w 30

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-01-2009, 08:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jjimmy

my bad I ment to say thickening the oils viscosity when it warms up

Multi viscosity Oil has microscopic pieces of rubber, and other stuff added to the oil to modify its property. When the oil heats the rubber molecules expand THICKENING the oils viscosity

NO.... multi-viscosity oils still thin out when heated, they just dont thin out
as much as a single grade does, when heated to the same temp.
as a multi-viscosity oil...

jjimmy · 11-02-2009, 09:31 PM

Thats what I ment it prevents it from being as thin as a 10w would be at temperature. all liquids thin as they are heated "to some degree"

70welder · 11-02-2009, 10:42 PM

i use 10w30 in the summer, 5w30 in the winter

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-03-2009, 11:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jjimmy

Thats what I ment it prevents it from being as thin as a 10w would be at temperature. all liquids thin as they are heated "to some degree"

oh ok, sorry. i misunderstood you then.

uhlhazard · 11-06-2009, 06:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 70welder

i use 10w30 in the summer, 5w30 in the winter

I think that despite the science that would be my belief as well.

I like to give the engineers a little credit every now and then. After stepping in that pile of lubrication science, I showered and got dressed.

I'm gonna stay in.

More Displacement · 11-09-2009, 04:38 AM

Kind of funny that everybody started in on the science of oil viscosity and trying to prove each other wrong when the guy who originaly made this thread might have a genuine engine problem not related to what oil weight he uses at all. Just an observation.

SH-60B · 11-09-2009, 10:11 AM

Re-read the thread, mechanical issues were discussed. I think it's important to get the correct information out there, don't you? If you have something to add that will help the OP, by all means post it.

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-09-2009, 03:01 PM

i agree. the thread may have gone off the original topic,
but i think the OP's issues were addressed.

threads on forums like this go astray frequently.
you'd best get used to it...

More Displacement · 11-09-2009, 03:14 PM

Well I guess im not the only one that needs to re-read the thread. 90% of the posts are about multi-viscosity oils. I will be the first one to say that I dont care about the science behind multi-viscosity oils. Im not an engineer and Ill leave the math and the science up to them. Leave it at the basics. 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are the same viscosity when they are hot and are only "different" viscosities when they are cold. When teh engines hot there should be no major change in the pressure, like he said in his original post. To change the oil to a thicker oil is only masking a possible problem. The high volume pump will pump more fluid and through the same diameter hole will also increase pressure. There are two valves in the oiling system designed to regulate and protect the engine. A relief valve that controls the pressure in the oil system and a bypass valve that allows oil to bypass the oil filter if it gets clogged or crushed. The only thing I can think of is that when the engine gets hot the relief valve spring gets hot and weaker (steel heats up it becomes more malleable) which causes the pressure to drop at hot idle. This is just a thought agian Im not an engineer. If the engine light comes on I dont care if Mitchelle says its fine the truck says it isnt and I dont think anybody from Mitchelle is going to come out and fix your truck if it spins a bearing from low oil pressure. Anybody I have talked to say anything less than 10 PSI at idle is a problem. Personally I dont like Mitchelle. I use Chiltons and SI and have never had any problems.

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-09-2009, 06:12 PM

careful, you'll get this steered off onto which
kind of manual is best debate...

i agree with you that switching to heavier weight oil
is a bandaid approach to a POSSIBLE problem.
so is a high volume, and/or high pressure pump.
he said it was a "high pressure" pump.

i would recomend he connect a mechanical gauge
next to confirm that it isnt a guage or sender issue.

if it really is too low, i'm wondering just how much
work was done to the engine, since it apparently got
a new oil pump. was the engine rebuilt?

however, it clear from some of the replys, that some
terribly misleading information was being given, and that
definetly did need to be adressed...

More Displacement · 11-09-2009, 10:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma

i agree. the thread may have gone off the original topic,
but i think the OP's issues were addressed.

threads on forums like this go astray frequently.
you'd best get used to it...

Haha, Im good at wrangling them back in, you best get used to that. lol.

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-10-2009, 07:11 PM

sounds good then.

osheimer55 · 11-10-2009, 07:55 PM

yeah, i havent been on for a few days because i spun a bearing we think last thursday night. I was sitting at a stoplight on my way home from work and naturally since my truck was warm, my pressure was low. There was a ranger creeping the line to my right and I hit the gas a little too enthusiasticly when the light changed and we went up the 1/2 mile grade. I blew the ranger away but my motor started knocking shortly there after.
I got the motor out and have it flipped over on an engine stand. All the rod bearings have a small bit of play, but one does in particular. Also, a difernet one has an uneven polished ring going around the bearing.
Were gonna look into it further shortly.
Thanks

More Displacement · 11-10-2009, 11:25 PM

Im sorry to here that man. Some play doesnt mean jack. Mine as well just start with plastigauge and do the main bearings first see what numbers you get with the old bearings (if there still good), check the crank to, any unevenness or funny coloring gauge it/ get it turned/ or replace it. If thats ok you might want to take the extra time and check the rod journals.

11-01-2009, 08:38 PM	#51
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,841 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Quote: Originally Posted by jjimmy my bad I ment to say thickening the oils viscosity when it warms up Multi viscosity Oil has microscopic pieces of rubber, and other stuff added to the oil to modify its property. When the oil heats the rubber molecules expand THICKENING the oils viscosity NO.... multi-viscosity oils still thin out when heated, they just dont thin out as much as a single grade does, when heated to the same temp. as a multi-viscosity oil...
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-02-2009, 09:31 PM	#52
jjimmy Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 117 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Thats what I ment it prevents it from being as thin as a 10w would be at temperature. all liquids thin as they are heated "to some degree"
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-02-2009, 10:42 PM	#53
70welder Taste Like It Smells... Age: 19 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 416 Location: Blackstone, MA User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 i use 10w30 in the summer, 5w30 in the winter
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-03-2009, 11:47 AM	#54
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,841 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Quote: Originally Posted by jjimmy Thats what I ment it prevents it from being as thin as a 10w would be at temperature. all liquids thin as they are heated "to some degree" oh ok, sorry. i misunderstood you then.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-06-2009, 06:25 PM	#55
uhlhazard Aquatic Goat Farmer Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 407 Location: Beautiful San Antonio TX User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Quote: Originally Posted by 70welder i use 10w30 in the summer, 5w30 in the winter I think that despite the science that would be my belief as well. I like to give the engineers a little credit every now and then. After stepping in that pile of lubrication science, I showered and got dressed. I'm gonna stay in.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-09-2009, 04:38 AM	#56
More Displacement Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 57 Location: Grand Blanc, MI User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Kind of funny that everybody started in on the science of oil viscosity and trying to prove each other wrong when the guy who originaly made this thread might have a genuine engine problem not related to what oil weight he uses at all. Just an observation.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-09-2009, 10:11 AM	#57
SH-60B Registered Neanderthal Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 2,335 Location: Meriden/CT/USA User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Re-read the thread, mechanical issues were discussed. I think it's important to get the correct information out there, don't you? If you have something to add that will help the OP, by all means post it. Last edited by SH-60B : 11-09-2009 at 10:14 AM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-09-2009, 03:01 PM	#58
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,841 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 i agree. the thread may have gone off the original topic, but i think the OP's issues were addressed. threads on forums like this go astray frequently. you'd best get used to it...
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-09-2009, 03:14 PM	#59
More Displacement Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 57 Location: Grand Blanc, MI User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Well I guess im not the only one that needs to re-read the thread. 90% of the posts are about multi-viscosity oils. I will be the first one to say that I dont care about the science behind multi-viscosity oils. Im not an engineer and Ill leave the math and the science up to them. Leave it at the basics. 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are the same viscosity when they are hot and are only "different" viscosities when they are cold. When teh engines hot there should be no major change in the pressure, like he said in his original post. To change the oil to a thicker oil is only masking a possible problem. The high volume pump will pump more fluid and through the same diameter hole will also increase pressure. There are two valves in the oiling system designed to regulate and protect the engine. A relief valve that controls the pressure in the oil system and a bypass valve that allows oil to bypass the oil filter if it gets clogged or crushed. The only thing I can think of is that when the engine gets hot the relief valve spring gets hot and weaker (steel heats up it becomes more malleable) which causes the pressure to drop at hot idle. This is just a thought agian Im not an engineer. If the engine light comes on I dont care if Mitchelle says its fine the truck says it isnt and I dont think anybody from Mitchelle is going to come out and fix your truck if it spins a bearing from low oil pressure. Anybody I have talked to say anything less than 10 PSI at idle is a problem. Personally I dont like Mitchelle. I use Chiltons and SI and have never had any problems.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-09-2009, 06:12 PM	#60
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,841 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 careful, you'll get this steered off onto which kind of manual is best debate... i agree with you that switching to heavier weight oil is a bandaid approach to a POSSIBLE problem. so is a high volume, and/or high pressure pump. he said it was a "high pressure" pump. i would recomend he connect a mechanical gauge next to confirm that it isnt a guage or sender issue. if it really is too low, i'm wondering just how much work was done to the engine, since it apparently got a new oil pump. was the engine rebuilt? however, it clear from some of the replys, that some terribly misleading information was being given, and that definetly did need to be adressed... Last edited by Crew Cab Sonoma : 11-09-2009 at 06:15 PM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-09-2009, 10:33 PM	#61
More Displacement Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 57 Location: Grand Blanc, MI User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma i agree. the thread may have gone off the original topic, but i think the OP's issues were addressed. threads on forums like this go astray frequently. you'd best get used to it... Haha, Im good at wrangling them back in, you best get used to that. lol.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-10-2009, 07:11 PM	#62
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,841 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 sounds good then.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-10-2009, 07:55 PM	#63
osheimer55 Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 96 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 yeah, i havent been on for a few days because i spun a bearing we think last thursday night. I was sitting at a stoplight on my way home from work and naturally since my truck was warm, my pressure was low. There was a ranger creeping the line to my right and I hit the gas a little too enthusiasticly when the light changed and we went up the 1/2 mile grade. I blew the ranger away but my motor started knocking shortly there after. I got the motor out and have it flipped over on an engine stand. All the rod bearings have a small bit of play, but one does in particular. Also, a difernet one has an uneven polished ring going around the bearing. Were gonna look into it further shortly. Thanks
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-10-2009, 11:25 PM	#64
More Displacement Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 57 Location: Grand Blanc, MI User is: OffLine	Re: 5w 30 vs. 10w 30 Im sorry to here that man. Some play doesnt mean jack. Mine as well just start with plastigauge and do the main bearings first see what numbers you get with the old bearings (if there still good), check the crank to, any unevenness or funny coloring gauge it/ get it turned/ or replace it. If thats ok you might want to take the extra time and check the rod journals.
	[Reply w/Quote]