1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect?

bdue1 · 10-19-2008, 11:30 AM

I have recently purchased a 1998 chevy s10 4.3 ZR2.. It has 170,000 miles on it.. 5 speed... It seems to ride kind of stiff, and there is oil leaking from around the oil pan not sure if its the rear main or the oil pan??? Im not sure what to expect with this truck cause I have never owned one... Is the mileage a bad sign ? Whats the expectancy on these engines ? Thanks

Yogi · 10-19-2008, 12:31 PM

The oil leak could be the oil cooler lines - a common problem on these motors.

I have a Blazer with 207,600 miles and I expect to get about 300,000 miles out of it. I wouldn't be concerned with 170k.

bdue1 · 10-19-2008, 02:19 PM

OK thanks... How difficult are headers to put on these engines ? Whats a good brand to go with? OBX ? Would I have to have a muffler shop put a dual exhaust setup on there for me ?

yz85608 · 10-19-2008, 02:24 PM

i think hedman makes a set of longtubes for the 4wd
check out summit for them.

SLStruckin · 10-20-2008, 11:55 AM

Dont waste your money with headers.

Read the posts... 95% of people who buy headers regret wasting the money. The 5% who don't are in love with their 0.01 sec lower et. A dual cat back system is good enough, there are a few out there. If you want to spend money for the sake of spending it, have a shop make a nice 2-1/4" mandrel y pipe.

SLStruckin · 10-20-2008, 11:55 AM

Difficulty isnt hard... just time consuming with the drivers side.

bdue1 · 10-20-2008, 10:41 PM

Ok thanks ! Would the headers make it any louder ?

~~4x4zr2GA~~ · 10-21-2008, 01:59 AM

it rides kinda stiff becuase it has a torsion bar suspension. get used to it cuase theres really nothing to help it out. as far as headers, dont waste your money, just get a good catback exhuast or even just a muffler and maybe a cold air intake and do the throttle body blade removal mod. that will make a big difference. other than, you have a special breed of the s10 truck and need to check out www. zr2usa .com (the spaces are so it doenst automatically insert a link)

Yogi · 10-21-2008, 12:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1

Ok thanks ! Would the headers make it any louder ?

Not with a stock muffler, but who would use a stock muffler system with headers? A performance exhaust system will be louder.

Don't waste you money on headers unless you plan on racing. Just get a good custom Y pipe and a catback and call it a day.

SLStruckin · 10-21-2008, 03:38 PM

Depending on the type of loud you want...

Tips, pipe diameter, exhaust, distance from exhaust to tips, resonators, x/h pipes... the list goes on, beyond stock you'll rarely find two 4.3's sounding the same. Its a matter of seeing some trucks, listening to them, decide what you like, and ask the guy what he's got on.

If you don't, you can buy some really nice stuff, but be dissapointed with the pitch or volume of the sound.

I like low & quiet, and I run a magnaflow cat back dual with 3" tips. I believe the flowmaster & spintech's are slightly louder, but not by much. Another thing to consider when doing any of this stuff is how long you want it to last.

Maybe it doesnt matter to you, Im Canadian... and up here aluminized steel or plated stainless (it has many trade names), is gone to shit in about 5 years time.

Really cheap stuff (alot of whats on Ebay), will always be aluminized steel (where as oem is stainless).

If your truck is your daily driver, and you plan on keeping it a few years, stainless systems are a good investment if you're in the northern states/canada. If you're in the south, or its a show truck, or you're not keeping it long, cheap works fine.

Headers do change the sound, but they are an expensive way to do it- thats the jist of what people will tell you, performance wise, realistically you're picking up less than 5 horse unless you've got some seriouse mods/forced induction... so it will barely read on your assometer. (Instead of going headers, go a nice cat back + muffer, and get a wait4me tune, you'll get sound & performance for less money).

Read the exhaust forum for alot more info on all of it.

bdue1 · 10-21-2008, 06:08 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 4x4zr2GA

it rides kinda stiff becuase it has a torsion bar suspension. get used to it cuase theres really nothing to help it out. as far as headers, dont waste your money, just get a good catback exhuast or even just a muffler and maybe a cold air intake and do the throttle body blade removal mod. that will make a big difference. other than, you have a special breed of the s10 truck and need to check out www. zr2usa .com (the spaces are so it doenst automatically insert a link)

Ok cool thanks man.. Im knew to this so theres alot of reading still to do.. But what is the throttle body blade ?

bdue1 · 10-21-2008, 06:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SLStruckin

Depending on the type of loud you want...

Tips, pipe diameter, exhaust, distance from exhaust to tips, resonators, x/h pipes... the list goes on, beyond stock you'll rarely find two 4.3's sounding the same. Its a matter of seeing some trucks, listening to them, decide what you like, and ask the guy what he's got on.

If you don't, you can buy some really nice stuff, but be dissapointed with the pitch or volume of the sound.

I like low & quiet, and I run a magnaflow cat back dual with 3" tips. I believe the flowmaster & spintech's are slightly louder, but not by much. Another thing to consider when doing any of this stuff is how long you want it to last.

Maybe it doesnt matter to you, Im Canadian... and up here aluminized steel or plated stainless (it has many trade names), is gone to shit in about 5 years time.

Really cheap stuff (alot of whats on Ebay), will always be aluminized steel (where as oem is stainless).

If your truck is your daily driver, and you plan on keeping it a few years, stainless systems are a good investment if you're in the northern states/canada. If you're in the south, or its a show truck, or you're not keeping it long, cheap works fine.

Headers do change the sound, but they are an expensive way to do it- thats the jist of what people will tell you, performance wise, realistically you're picking up less than 5 horse unless you've got some seriouse mods/forced induction... so it will barely read on your assometer. (Instead of going headers, go a nice cat back + muffer, and get a wait4me tune, you'll get sound & performance for less money).

Read the exhaust forum for alot more info on all of it.

Ok thanks alot for the information... So an exhaust shop should be able to do what im wanting ?

bdue1 · 10-21-2008, 06:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

Not with a stock muffler, but who would use a stock muffler system with headers? A performance exhaust system will be louder.

Don't waste you money on headers unless you plan on racing. Just get a good custom Y pipe and a catback and call it a day.

Ok thanks... The driver seat is worn completely out... Would I be better off trying to find another stock seat or buying aftermarket bucket seats ?

Yogi · 10-21-2008, 07:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1

Ok thanks... The driver seat is worn completely out... Would I be better off trying to find another stock seat or buying aftermarket bucket seats ?

Aftermarket will prolly be more expensive. It will be a mater of taste and what you can afford.

Crew Cab Sonoma · 10-21-2008, 08:14 PM

your suspension is stiff because it has the heavy duty suspension package,
not because it has torision bars.

it is possible to soften it some. shocks with impact sensing valving,
you can also lube the sway bar to frame bushings with dielectric
silicone grease, and use spray lube on the rear leafspring inter-leaf pads.
ect.

bdue1 · 10-22-2008, 01:07 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma

your suspension is stiff because it has the heavy duty suspension package,
not because it has torision bars.

it is possible to soften it some. shocks with impact sensing valving,
you can also lube the sway bar to frame bushings with dielectric
silicone grease, and use spray lube on the rear leafspring inter-leaf pads.
ect.

Ok thanks will do..

bdue1 · 10-22-2008, 01:08 AM

Im going to have time tomorrow to look and see where the oil is leaking from underneath of the truck... Im hoping its just the oil coil lines... And im hoping its an easy fix...

SLStruckin · 10-22-2008, 10:59 AM

Yes bdue1, you can usually find a local shop, just make sure they have a mandrel bender & will do stainless. Around here it seems about 1 in 10 exhaust shops have a mandrel bender.

For a couple hundred bucks most shops will do a one-off fitup, they'll put your truck up in the air, you show'em or discuss about where you'd like to see the pipes run, and they do it. Usually the cost runs up when you need a second muffler & cat (if your doing this legit).

~~4x4zr2GA~~ · 10-22-2008, 04:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma

your suspension is stiff because it has the heavy duty suspension package,
not because it has torision bars.

it is possible to soften it some. shocks with impact sensing valving,
you can also lube the sway bar to frame bushings with dielectric
silicone grease, and use spray lube on the rear leafspring inter-leaf pads.
ect.

its not stiff becuase it has a "heavy duty suspension package". a zr2 rides like every other 4x4 s10 out there. the torsion bars are the same and they are interchangable and have the same part #. the frame is a little wider, and the mounting points for all the suspension stuff is dropped down a little lower, makeing the truck sit higher... the only other thing that could possibly make it ride any "harsher" than a regular 4x4 s10 is the bilstein shocks the zr2's come stock with. other than that, the suspension package has nothing that makes the ride quality any worse than a regular torsion bar suspension truck.

Crew Cab Sonoma · 10-22-2008, 06:56 PM

id suggest a little more reasearch on this subject.

there were several levels of 4WD suspension levels available on these trucks, depending on year and body/chasis style...

most years offered at least 3-4 different 4WD suspension options.

Z83: base level/smooth ride

Z85: increased payload/firm ride

ZM6: off road/very firm ride

ZR2: heavy duty off road

each option had different combinations of spring rates, sway bar sizes,
and shock rates,types, and even brands...

and different cab styles with the same suspension option, Z85 for example,
used on a reg. cab, and a crew cab did not use identical springs and swaybars.

there were literally dozens of combinations used sometimes...

so NO, they arent all the same...

Crew Cab Sonoma · 10-22-2008, 07:16 PM

also, 4WD trucks, wether torision bar equipped or not, tend to have stiff suspensions due to having high CG's and the need to resist suspension compression during off roading.

many of Chrysler's passenger cars made during the 60's-70's had torision
bar front suspensions, and they had very smooth ride qualities...

the S-series trucks do have a slight ammount of front suspension "binding" due to to fact that the torision bar doesnt attach to the control arm directly
at the arm's pivot center, which causes a small stiffness issue, but this isnt due to the torision bar itself, but rather the particular design used by GM...

i've been in several 4WD S-series trucks, mainly Blazers/Jimmys, that IMO, rode quite well...

shiftit · 10-23-2008, 02:27 AM

ah i miss my 98 zr2 5spd 4.3L blazer...

technically i still got it but its more like a 98 sfa t350 5.7L fuel vacuum

raven2510 · 10-23-2008, 01:24 PM

try going to zr2usa.com trust me....they have alot of knowledge on the ZR2s

bdue1 · 10-25-2008, 01:43 AM

Ok I will join that forum.. I was under the truck today and I cannot tell if its the oil coolant lines that are leaking oil or if it may be the valve covers ? There is so much oil all underneath it is hard to figure it out.. Also im trying to upgrade all of the speakers inside of the vehicle but not sure how door panels come apart... Another thing that I have pondering on my mind is the radiator I took the cap off and there was tons of this rusty gunk.... Should I get a radiator flush ? Or can I do that myself ? The coolant inside was low and it looks quite disgusting...

deathphoenix99 · 10-25-2008, 10:31 AM

DO the flush yourself...its easy, just pull the petcock on the bottom side or the rad and drain it all into some containers to dispose of. Then just hook up a hose to it and fill it up with water. Run the engine with the heater on for 10-15 minutes, drive it around if you want. Drain all the water, depending on how bad yours is, you may need to flush again to get all the goop out. When your ready, refill with the appropiate type of anitfreeze with distilled water, do not use tap to refil, and your ready to go. Yours could be dex-cool, pink/orange stuff or it could be the older regular anti, which is green or yellow.

Yogi · 10-25-2008, 12:35 PM

I haven't seen it or tried it, but I've heard that the auto supply stores have an ultraviolet dye that you can put in the oil to find the leak. You put the dye in the oil, run the motor, and then shine a black light on the suspect places to see where the oil is coming from. Sounds like a good idea.

The door panels are easy, once you see how they work. Look for some screws under the armrests (2) and inside of the door handle trim (1). Remove the screws.

If you have manual windows, you're going to need a window handle removal tool. Get it from the auto parts store and remove the handles. They're held on by some "U" shaped spring clips. See if you can find a window handle at the store to look at to see how/where the clips are.

The bottom and the sides of the panel are held on by some friction fit posts. Insert a putty knife into the joint between the panel and the door and pry the panel off. Once you get a couple of the posts off, you'll see how they fit and you can just pull the panel out to get the rest of the posts out. DO NOT PULL ON THE TOP!

Once you have all of the friction posts out of the bottom and sides, you are ready to remove the panel by sliding upward to disengage the channel that holds the panel at the top. There is a "U" shaped channel at the top of the panel that clips over the top edge of the door. Pull the panel out from the door at the bottom about 6" and slide it up and out. Be gentle with the wires. That's it!

bdue1 · 10-25-2008, 08:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi

I haven't seen it or tried it, but I've heard that the auto supply stores have an ultraviolet dye that you can put in the oil to find the leak. You put the dye in the oil, run the motor, and then shine a black light on the suspect places to see where the oil is coming from. Sounds like a good idea.

The door panels are easy, once you see how they work. Look for some screws under the armrests (2) and inside of the door handle trim (1). Remove the screws.

If you have manual windows, you're going to need a window handle removal tool. Get it from the auto parts store and remove the handles. They're held on by some "U" shaped spring clips. See if you can find a window handle at the store to look at to see how/where the clips are.

The bottom and the sides of the panel are held on by some friction fit posts. Insert a putty knife into the joint between the panel and the door and pry the panel off. Once you get a couple of the posts off, you'll see how they fit and you can just pull the panel out to get the rest of the posts out. DO NOT PULL ON THE TOP!

Once you have all of the friction posts out of the bottom and sides, you are ready to remove the panel by sliding upward to disengage the channel that holds the panel at the top. There is a "U" shaped channel at the top of the panel that clips over the top edge of the door. Pull the panel out from the door at the bottom about 6" and slide it up and out. Be gentle with the wires. That's it!

Ok thanks for the information and the help... Im going to flush the coolant and clean the engine and underneath with a pressure washer here in a few hours... Then go buy that dye and run it through the engine... I have another question I was hoping you guys could assit me with.. The bottom panels of the truck cab like the corners have some rust... I was wondering the best way to tackle that ? Thanks

Yogi · 10-26-2008, 10:12 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1

Ok thanks for the information and the help... Im going to flush the coolant and clean the engine and underneath with a pressure washer here in a few hours... Then go buy that dye and run it through the engine... I have another question I was hoping you guys could assit me with.. The bottom panels of the truck cab like the corners have some rust... I was wondering the best way to tackle that ? Thanks

I don't know much about body work but I think that you can get some patch panels from LMC Truck.

ZR2 SUE · 04-11-2009, 03:16 AM

It's nice to know there are more 5 spds out there. You are the first one I have ever known of besides mine. Do you still have yours? Mine is currently apart. My husband is porting the heads and redoing the gaskets. I had the the intake and head gaskets go on me three years ago. The Blaze has been parked since then. I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon.

Sue

Quote: Originally Posted by shiftit

ah i miss my 98 zr2 5spd 4.3L blazer...

technically i still got it but its more like a 98 sfa t350 5.7L fuel vacuum

nicknoma · 04-11-2009, 12:53 PM

i dont know if it has been mentioned but another typical problem is the rear door handle on the space cab if your not careful has a tenacity to break

amwworks · 04-11-2009, 02:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma

id suggest a little more reasearch on this subject.

there were several levels of 4WD suspension levels available on these trucks, depending on year and body/chasis style...

most years offered at least 3-4 different 4WD suspension options.

Z83: base level/smooth ride

Z85: increased payload/firm ride

ZM6: off road/very firm ride

ZR2: heavy duty off road

each option had different combinations of spring rates, sway bar sizes,
and shock rates,types, and even brands...

and different cab styles with the same suspension option, Z85 for example,
used on a reg. cab, and a crew cab did not use identical springs and swaybars.

there were literally dozens of combinations used sometimes...

so NO, they arent all the same...

What about ZW7?

Crew Cab Sonoma · 04-13-2009, 09:58 AM

not aware of that one.. you have any info on it?

old_skool_noma · 04-13-2009, 02:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1

Ok thanks alot for the information... So an exhaust shop should be able to do what im wanting ?

i wouldnt even bother having a shop do it, unless you want it to go past the axle or come out beneath the bed side, and then still maybe not

most on here run some sort of turbo muffler to a turn down, or a short straight pipe then turn down.
The short run of pipe will quiet it down a little, but where it dumps under the bed its actually a good thing because even with the about 24" pipe and turn down it still resonates in the cab quite a bit.
Don't get me wrong, it sounds great when you're outside the truck, especially at idle, but the resonant sound in the cab can be a little annoying.

as for the parts i used, im pretty sure i got a 2.5, although it may have been 2.75, inch pipe and turn down, and single in single out 13" case cherry bomb turbo muffler all from auto zoo, but ive heard that the thrush turbo mufflers sound good too. i did everything for under $40, just cut the factory exhaust off right before the muffler at the back of the cab while my bed was off, but of course it doesnt need to be, i was doing rust repair at the time, then i just took off all of the factory exhaust mounts from there back since they are all bolted on and the factory system is welded to them.

the other system i heard that sounded good was belive it or not was one of my friends from school that had a 96ish zr2 with a single glass pach then a y pipe run back with dual exits straight back at each corner of the bed, i think he had 3 inch tips on it too, he said it was just a glass pack and i was in shock becasue i'd never heard one sound so good, and i was thinking about building my exhaust like that, but i decided i wanted a cleaner look.

moving on, one of the most common problems that im aware of is the lower intake manifold gaskets rupturing and leaking coolent everywhere. the gaskets are a little over 30 bucks from auto zoo should you ever need them, also, if you have it done at a shop, check their reputation, im pretty sure thats why i had to get a new engine. my intake was leaking like a seive, (i stopped to fill up my radiator and overflow tank probably 3-4 times in a 160 mile trip)
when I got to the school I checked to see where the problem was and sure enough it was my intake manifold. So I took it to one of local shops and it cost me $438 to get it changed, well I drove it around town for a while and it seemed alright, then on my way home the next weekend (78 miles from when I'd had the gasket changed) my engine started losing power and wouldnt hardly wind, turns out the crank/rod bearings werent getting oil and locked up, when I saw the amount of RTV they used on my intake, I was pretty much astounded, there was twice as much leaking out just the front side than it should have taken to do the the whole job. I'm guessing one of those chunks of rtv dripped off and on the inside of my engine and got stuck in one of my oil lines and prevented oil from getting to my crank and rod bearings. I wish I would have had my shop find the cause so I could have got the other shop to pay for the new engine, but you live and learn, so on my new engine, I changed the gaskets myself before it even went in the truck, and I have yet to have a problem with it.

novel over LOL

old_skool_noma · 04-13-2009, 02:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma

id suggest a little more reasearch on this subject.

there were several levels of 4WD suspension levels available on these trucks, depending on year and body/chasis style...

most years offered at least 3-4 different 4WD suspension options.

Z83: base level/smooth ride

Z85: increased payload/firm ride

ZM6: off road/very firm ride

ZR2: heavy duty off road

each option had different combinations of spring rates, sway bar sizes,
and shock rates,types, and even brands...

and different cab styles with the same suspension option, Z85 for example,
used on a reg. cab, and a crew cab did not use identical springs and swaybars.

there were literally dozens of combinations used sometimes...

so NO, they arent all the same...

this was also available on 2wd trucks, most commonly the long beds IIRC, mainly because that's how Ryo's (greencactus3) truck, and mine came from the factory, i also believe that mine had an add a leaf kit as well, since Ive had over 2500 pounds in the bed of it, and the suspension still didnt bottom out, actually it was about as low as I am now with just the two leafs and overload, I kind of miss how stiff the suspension was since I could go around corners and hit a bump and would just feel, well, a bump, now it bounces some and i get quite a bit of body roll, but the smoother ride is nice.

amwworks · 04-14-2009, 09:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma

not aware of that one.. you have any info on it?

Thats the suspension package I have on my truck, and its a 4x4. Thats all I know.

djmomentum · 09-17-2009, 10:24 PM

OK, So it sounds like the ZR2 is a good strong truck. I am looking to by one from a guy I work with for $1000. The catch is that the Bed is crushed on the passenger side. Is there any where online to find a used or new replacement bed for the truck? It does not have to match the original paint I Plan on painting the truck after I find a Bed. Another thing, Do these trucks have to have a specific bed or can I get any S10 or GMC Sonoma to work?

95tahoelt · 09-24-2009, 02:43 AM

back to the topic: Hearders are nice for a very little horse power, about as much as adding a CAI (cold air intake) you wont feel the difference.
without porting your just increase the flow of one part of the air pump, so its getting bottled up somewhere else.
The best part of headers are the cooler under hood temp., headers are much cooler then large cast iron manifolds.

Now onto the harsh ride of a ZR2, every s10 and sonoma I have rode inside are different. bilstien shocks are one of the best things on the truck and will out last the truck more then likely. from the factory the torsion bars are set differently some soft and some stiffer. everyone i know with a ZR2 has cranked there tbars up to get a little more lift out of it or a stiffer ride. sometimes they get extremly harsh. which starts ripping apart the ball joints average life of them under crank tbars is about a year.
before you do anything to your truck read up on t-bars and make an adjustment.

On S10's 4x4's have tbars, 4x2 have coil springs! fullsize trucks are the same until a couple years ago on half ton models but I'm not getting into that now!

bubbagt57 · 09-24-2009, 02:45 AM

to get laid EVERYNIGHT when you live the lyf3style!!!!11! your truck is a pussy magnet

95tahoelt · 09-24-2009, 02:57 AM

I forgot about the oil leak.
The Oil leak more then likey coming from the front main or the plastic timing chain cover or the oil relocator lines.

I would guess with your milage its the main, they wear a grove into the shaft of the harmonic balancer.
The best part is they sell sleves that go over the shaft to fix it. the fix should only take a couple hours with the right tools.

cams · 09-24-2009, 08:42 AM

If the truck is higher than stock then it is probably riding stiff due to someone cranking the T-bars to achieve some extra lift. The down side to that is it makes the truck ride like complete trash. (in my experience)

10-19-2008, 11:30 AM	#1
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? I have recently purchased a 1998 chevy s10 4.3 ZR2.. It has 170,000 miles on it.. 5 speed... It seems to ride kind of stiff, and there is oil leaking from around the oil pan not sure if its the rear main or the oil pan??? Im not sure what to expect with this truck cause I have never owned one... Is the mileage a bad sign ? Whats the expectancy on these engines ? Thanks
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-19-2008, 12:31 PM	#2
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,091 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? The oil leak could be the oil cooler lines - a common problem on these motors. I have a Blazer with 207,600 miles and I expect to get about 300,000 miles out of it. I wouldn't be concerned with 170k.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-19-2008, 02:19 PM	#3
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? OK thanks... How difficult are headers to put on these engines ? Whats a good brand to go with? OBX ? Would I have to have a muffler shop put a dual exhaust setup on there for me ?
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-19-2008, 02:24 PM	#4
yz85608 Blue-X Age: 19 Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 491 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? i think hedman makes a set of longtubes for the 4wd check out summit for them.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-20-2008, 11:55 AM	#5
SLStruckin Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 361 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Dont waste your money with headers. Read the posts... 95% of people who buy headers regret wasting the money. The 5% who don't are in love with their 0.01 sec lower et. A dual cat back system is good enough, there are a few out there. If you want to spend money for the sake of spending it, have a shop make a nice 2-1/4" mandrel y pipe.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-20-2008, 10:41 PM	#7
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Ok thanks ! Would the headers make it any louder ?
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-21-2008, 01:59 AM	#8
~~4x4zr2GA~~ Banned Age: 22 Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 2,361 Location: warner robins, GA User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? it rides kinda stiff becuase it has a torsion bar suspension. get used to it cuase theres really nothing to help it out. as far as headers, dont waste your money, just get a good catback exhuast or even just a muffler and maybe a cold air intake and do the throttle body blade removal mod. that will make a big difference. other than, you have a special breed of the s10 truck and need to check out www. zr2usa .com (the spaces are so it doenst automatically insert a link)
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-21-2008, 12:05 PM	#9
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,091 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1 Ok thanks ! Would the headers make it any louder ? Not with a stock muffler, but who would use a stock muffler system with headers? A performance exhaust system will be louder. Don't waste you money on headers unless you plan on racing. Just get a good custom Y pipe and a catback and call it a day.
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10-21-2008, 03:38 PM	#10
SLStruckin Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 361 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Depending on the type of loud you want... Tips, pipe diameter, exhaust, distance from exhaust to tips, resonators, x/h pipes... the list goes on, beyond stock you'll rarely find two 4.3's sounding the same. Its a matter of seeing some trucks, listening to them, decide what you like, and ask the guy what he's got on. If you don't, you can buy some really nice stuff, but be dissapointed with the pitch or volume of the sound. I like low & quiet, and I run a magnaflow cat back dual with 3" tips. I believe the flowmaster & spintech's are slightly louder, but not by much. Another thing to consider when doing any of this stuff is how long you want it to last. Maybe it doesnt matter to you, Im Canadian... and up here aluminized steel or plated stainless (it has many trade names), is gone to shit in about 5 years time. Really cheap stuff (alot of whats on Ebay), will always be aluminized steel (where as oem is stainless). If your truck is your daily driver, and you plan on keeping it a few years, stainless systems are a good investment if you're in the northern states/canada. If you're in the south, or its a show truck, or you're not keeping it long, cheap works fine. Headers do change the sound, but they are an expensive way to do it- thats the jist of what people will tell you, performance wise, realistically you're picking up less than 5 horse unless you've got some seriouse mods/forced induction... so it will barely read on your assometer. (Instead of going headers, go a nice cat back + muffer, and get a wait4me tune, you'll get sound & performance for less money). Read the exhaust forum for alot more info on all of it.
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10-21-2008, 06:08 PM	#11
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by 4x4zr2GA it rides kinda stiff becuase it has a torsion bar suspension. get used to it cuase theres really nothing to help it out. as far as headers, dont waste your money, just get a good catback exhuast or even just a muffler and maybe a cold air intake and do the throttle body blade removal mod. that will make a big difference. other than, you have a special breed of the s10 truck and need to check out www. zr2usa .com (the spaces are so it doenst automatically insert a link) Ok cool thanks man.. Im knew to this so theres alot of reading still to do.. But what is the throttle body blade ?
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10-21-2008, 06:10 PM	#12
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by SLStruckin Depending on the type of loud you want... Tips, pipe diameter, exhaust, distance from exhaust to tips, resonators, x/h pipes... the list goes on, beyond stock you'll rarely find two 4.3's sounding the same. Its a matter of seeing some trucks, listening to them, decide what you like, and ask the guy what he's got on. If you don't, you can buy some really nice stuff, but be dissapointed with the pitch or volume of the sound. I like low & quiet, and I run a magnaflow cat back dual with 3" tips. I believe the flowmaster & spintech's are slightly louder, but not by much. Another thing to consider when doing any of this stuff is how long you want it to last. Maybe it doesnt matter to you, Im Canadian... and up here aluminized steel or plated stainless (it has many trade names), is gone to shit in about 5 years time. Really cheap stuff (alot of whats on Ebay), will always be aluminized steel (where as oem is stainless). If your truck is your daily driver, and you plan on keeping it a few years, stainless systems are a good investment if you're in the northern states/canada. If you're in the south, or its a show truck, or you're not keeping it long, cheap works fine. Headers do change the sound, but they are an expensive way to do it- thats the jist of what people will tell you, performance wise, realistically you're picking up less than 5 horse unless you've got some seriouse mods/forced induction... so it will barely read on your assometer. (Instead of going headers, go a nice cat back + muffer, and get a wait4me tune, you'll get sound & performance for less money). Read the exhaust forum for alot more info on all of it. Ok thanks alot for the information... So an exhaust shop should be able to do what im wanting ?
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10-21-2008, 06:11 PM	#13
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi Not with a stock muffler, but who would use a stock muffler system with headers? A performance exhaust system will be louder. Don't waste you money on headers unless you plan on racing. Just get a good custom Y pipe and a catback and call it a day. Ok thanks... The driver seat is worn completely out... Would I be better off trying to find another stock seat or buying aftermarket bucket seats ?
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10-21-2008, 07:48 PM	#14
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,091 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1 Ok thanks... The driver seat is worn completely out... Would I be better off trying to find another stock seat or buying aftermarket bucket seats ? Aftermarket will prolly be more expensive. It will be a mater of taste and what you can afford.
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10-21-2008, 08:14 PM	#15
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,791 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? your suspension is stiff because it has the heavy duty suspension package, not because it has torision bars. it is possible to soften it some. shocks with impact sensing valving, you can also lube the sway bar to frame bushings with dielectric silicone grease, and use spray lube on the rear leafspring inter-leaf pads. ect.
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10-22-2008, 01:07 AM	#16
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma your suspension is stiff because it has the heavy duty suspension package, not because it has torision bars. it is possible to soften it some. shocks with impact sensing valving, you can also lube the sway bar to frame bushings with dielectric silicone grease, and use spray lube on the rear leafspring inter-leaf pads. ect. Ok thanks will do..
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10-22-2008, 01:08 AM	#17
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Im going to have time tomorrow to look and see where the oil is leaking from underneath of the truck... Im hoping its just the oil coil lines... And im hoping its an easy fix...
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10-22-2008, 10:59 AM	#18
SLStruckin Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 361 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Yes bdue1, you can usually find a local shop, just make sure they have a mandrel bender & will do stainless. Around here it seems about 1 in 10 exhaust shops have a mandrel bender. For a couple hundred bucks most shops will do a one-off fitup, they'll put your truck up in the air, you show'em or discuss about where you'd like to see the pipes run, and they do it. Usually the cost runs up when you need a second muffler & cat (if your doing this legit).
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10-22-2008, 04:28 PM	#19
~~4x4zr2GA~~ Banned Age: 22 Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 2,361 Location: warner robins, GA User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma your suspension is stiff because it has the heavy duty suspension package, not because it has torision bars. it is possible to soften it some. shocks with impact sensing valving, you can also lube the sway bar to frame bushings with dielectric silicone grease, and use spray lube on the rear leafspring inter-leaf pads. ect. its not stiff becuase it has a "heavy duty suspension package". a zr2 rides like every other 4x4 s10 out there. the torsion bars are the same and they are interchangable and have the same part #. the frame is a little wider, and the mounting points for all the suspension stuff is dropped down a little lower, makeing the truck sit higher... the only other thing that could possibly make it ride any "harsher" than a regular 4x4 s10 is the bilstein shocks the zr2's come stock with. other than that, the suspension package has nothing that makes the ride quality any worse than a regular torsion bar suspension truck.
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10-22-2008, 06:56 PM	#20
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,791 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? id suggest a little more reasearch on this subject. there were several levels of 4WD suspension levels available on these trucks, depending on year and body/chasis style... most years offered at least 3-4 different 4WD suspension options. Z83: base level/smooth ride Z85: increased payload/firm ride ZM6: off road/very firm ride ZR2: heavy duty off road each option had different combinations of spring rates, sway bar sizes, and shock rates,types, and even brands... and different cab styles with the same suspension option, Z85 for example, used on a reg. cab, and a crew cab did not use identical springs and swaybars. there were literally dozens of combinations used sometimes... so NO, they arent all the same...
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10-22-2008, 07:16 PM	#21
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,791 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? also, 4WD trucks, wether torision bar equipped or not, tend to have stiff suspensions due to having high CG's and the need to resist suspension compression during off roading. many of Chrysler's passenger cars made during the 60's-70's had torision bar front suspensions, and they had very smooth ride qualities... the S-series trucks do have a slight ammount of front suspension "binding" due to to fact that the torision bar doesnt attach to the control arm directly at the arm's pivot center, which causes a small stiffness issue, but this isnt due to the torision bar itself, but rather the particular design used by GM... i've been in several 4WD S-series trucks, mainly Blazers/Jimmys, that IMO, rode quite well...
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10-23-2008, 02:27 AM	#22
shiftit cool to the tool Age: 25 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 677 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? ah i miss my 98 zr2 5spd 4.3L blazer... technically i still got it but its more like a 98 sfa t350 5.7L fuel vacuum
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10-23-2008, 01:24 PM	#23
raven2510 Overhead Console Expert Age: 22 Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,623 Location: Omaha, Nebraska User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? try going to zr2usa.com trust me....they have alot of knowledge on the ZR2s
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10-25-2008, 01:43 AM	#24
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Ok I will join that forum.. I was under the truck today and I cannot tell if its the oil coolant lines that are leaking oil or if it may be the valve covers ? There is so much oil all underneath it is hard to figure it out.. Also im trying to upgrade all of the speakers inside of the vehicle but not sure how door panels come apart... Another thing that I have pondering on my mind is the radiator I took the cap off and there was tons of this rusty gunk.... Should I get a radiator flush ? Or can I do that myself ? The coolant inside was low and it looks quite disgusting...
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10-25-2008, 10:31 AM	#25
deathphoenix99 94 2.2, feel the power? Age: 19 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 2,138 Location: Houston, TX User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? DO the flush yourself...its easy, just pull the petcock on the bottom side or the rad and drain it all into some containers to dispose of. Then just hook up a hose to it and fill it up with water. Run the engine with the heater on for 10-15 minutes, drive it around if you want. Drain all the water, depending on how bad yours is, you may need to flush again to get all the goop out. When your ready, refill with the appropiate type of anitfreeze with distilled water, do not use tap to refil, and your ready to go. Yours could be dex-cool, pink/orange stuff or it could be the older regular anti, which is green or yellow.
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10-25-2008, 12:35 PM	#26
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,091 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? I haven't seen it or tried it, but I've heard that the auto supply stores have an ultraviolet dye that you can put in the oil to find the leak. You put the dye in the oil, run the motor, and then shine a black light on the suspect places to see where the oil is coming from. Sounds like a good idea. The door panels are easy, once you see how they work. Look for some screws under the armrests (2) and inside of the door handle trim (1). Remove the screws. If you have manual windows, you're going to need a window handle removal tool. Get it from the auto parts store and remove the handles. They're held on by some "U" shaped spring clips. See if you can find a window handle at the store to look at to see how/where the clips are. The bottom and the sides of the panel are held on by some friction fit posts. Insert a putty knife into the joint between the panel and the door and pry the panel off. Once you get a couple of the posts off, you'll see how they fit and you can just pull the panel out to get the rest of the posts out. DO NOT PULL ON THE TOP! Once you have all of the friction posts out of the bottom and sides, you are ready to remove the panel by sliding upward to disengage the channel that holds the panel at the top. There is a "U" shaped channel at the top of the panel that clips over the top edge of the door. Pull the panel out from the door at the bottom about 6" and slide it up and out. Be gentle with the wires. That's it!
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10-25-2008, 08:23 PM	#27
bdue1 Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by Yogi I haven't seen it or tried it, but I've heard that the auto supply stores have an ultraviolet dye that you can put in the oil to find the leak. You put the dye in the oil, run the motor, and then shine a black light on the suspect places to see where the oil is coming from. Sounds like a good idea. The door panels are easy, once you see how they work. Look for some screws under the armrests (2) and inside of the door handle trim (1). Remove the screws. If you have manual windows, you're going to need a window handle removal tool. Get it from the auto parts store and remove the handles. They're held on by some "U" shaped spring clips. See if you can find a window handle at the store to look at to see how/where the clips are. The bottom and the sides of the panel are held on by some friction fit posts. Insert a putty knife into the joint between the panel and the door and pry the panel off. Once you get a couple of the posts off, you'll see how they fit and you can just pull the panel out to get the rest of the posts out. DO NOT PULL ON THE TOP! Once you have all of the friction posts out of the bottom and sides, you are ready to remove the panel by sliding upward to disengage the channel that holds the panel at the top. There is a "U" shaped channel at the top of the panel that clips over the top edge of the door. Pull the panel out from the door at the bottom about 6" and slide it up and out. Be gentle with the wires. That's it! Ok thanks for the information and the help... Im going to flush the coolant and clean the engine and underneath with a pressure washer here in a few hours... Then go buy that dye and run it through the engine... I have another question I was hoping you guys could assit me with.. The bottom panels of the truck cab like the corners have some rust... I was wondering the best way to tackle that ? Thanks
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10-26-2008, 10:12 AM	#28
Yogi Registered (Ab) User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4,091 Location: League City, TX (Houston) User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1 Ok thanks for the information and the help... Im going to flush the coolant and clean the engine and underneath with a pressure washer here in a few hours... Then go buy that dye and run it through the engine... I have another question I was hoping you guys could assit me with.. The bottom panels of the truck cab like the corners have some rust... I was wondering the best way to tackle that ? Thanks I don't know much about body work but I think that you can get some patch panels from LMC Truck.
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04-11-2009, 03:16 AM	#29
ZR2 SUE Registered User Age: 29 Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 1 Location: Watertown, WI User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? It's nice to know there are more 5 spds out there. You are the first one I have ever known of besides mine. Do you still have yours? Mine is currently apart. My husband is porting the heads and redoing the gaskets. I had the the intake and head gaskets go on me three years ago. The Blaze has been parked since then. I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. Sue Quote: Originally Posted by shiftit ah i miss my 98 zr2 5spd 4.3L blazer... technically i still got it but its more like a 98 sfa t350 5.7L fuel vacuum
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04-11-2009, 12:53 PM	#30
nicknoma Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 131 Location: va beach User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? i dont know if it has been mentioned but another typical problem is the rear door handle on the space cab if your not careful has a tenacity to break
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04-11-2009, 02:31 PM	#31
amwworks I'm Just Here Age: 22 Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 96 Location: Southeast, MI User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma id suggest a little more reasearch on this subject. there were several levels of 4WD suspension levels available on these trucks, depending on year and body/chasis style... most years offered at least 3-4 different 4WD suspension options. Z83: base level/smooth ride Z85: increased payload/firm ride ZM6: off road/very firm ride ZR2: heavy duty off road each option had different combinations of spring rates, sway bar sizes, and shock rates,types, and even brands... and different cab styles with the same suspension option, Z85 for example, used on a reg. cab, and a crew cab did not use identical springs and swaybars. there were literally dozens of combinations used sometimes... so NO, they arent all the same... What about ZW7?
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04-13-2009, 09:58 AM	#32
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 4,791 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? not aware of that one.. you have any info on it?
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04-13-2009, 02:14 PM	#33
old_skool_noma V is my new #1 Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 7,158 Location: Heath/Newark, OH User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by bdue1 Ok thanks alot for the information... So an exhaust shop should be able to do what im wanting ? i wouldnt even bother having a shop do it, unless you want it to go past the axle or come out beneath the bed side, and then still maybe not most on here run some sort of turbo muffler to a turn down, or a short straight pipe then turn down. The short run of pipe will quiet it down a little, but where it dumps under the bed its actually a good thing because even with the about 24" pipe and turn down it still resonates in the cab quite a bit. Don't get me wrong, it sounds great when you're outside the truck, especially at idle, but the resonant sound in the cab can be a little annoying. as for the parts i used, im pretty sure i got a 2.5, although it may have been 2.75, inch pipe and turn down, and single in single out 13" case cherry bomb turbo muffler all from auto zoo, but ive heard that the thrush turbo mufflers sound good too. i did everything for under $40, just cut the factory exhaust off right before the muffler at the back of the cab while my bed was off, but of course it doesnt need to be, i was doing rust repair at the time, then i just took off all of the factory exhaust mounts from there back since they are all bolted on and the factory system is welded to them. the other system i heard that sounded good was belive it or not was one of my friends from school that had a 96ish zr2 with a single glass pach then a y pipe run back with dual exits straight back at each corner of the bed, i think he had 3 inch tips on it too, he said it was just a glass pack and i was in shock becasue i'd never heard one sound so good, and i was thinking about building my exhaust like that, but i decided i wanted a cleaner look. moving on, one of the most common problems that im aware of is the lower intake manifold gaskets rupturing and leaking coolent everywhere. the gaskets are a little over 30 bucks from auto zoo should you ever need them, also, if you have it done at a shop, check their reputation, im pretty sure thats why i had to get a new engine. my intake was leaking like a seive, (i stopped to fill up my radiator and overflow tank probably 3-4 times in a 160 mile trip) when I got to the school I checked to see where the problem was and sure enough it was my intake manifold. So I took it to one of local shops and it cost me $438 to get it changed, well I drove it around town for a while and it seemed alright, then on my way home the next weekend (78 miles from when I'd had the gasket changed) my engine started losing power and wouldnt hardly wind, turns out the crank/rod bearings werent getting oil and locked up, when I saw the amount of RTV they used on my intake, I was pretty much astounded, there was twice as much leaking out just the front side than it should have taken to do the the whole job. I'm guessing one of those chunks of rtv dripped off and on the inside of my engine and got stuck in one of my oil lines and prevented oil from getting to my crank and rod bearings. I wish I would have had my shop find the cause so I could have got the other shop to pay for the new engine, but you live and learn, so on my new engine, I changed the gaskets myself before it even went in the truck, and I have yet to have a problem with it. novel over LOL
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04-13-2009, 02:19 PM	#34
old_skool_noma V is my new #1 Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 7,158 Location: Heath/Newark, OH User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma id suggest a little more reasearch on this subject. there were several levels of 4WD suspension levels available on these trucks, depending on year and body/chasis style... most years offered at least 3-4 different 4WD suspension options. Z83: base level/smooth ride Z85: increased payload/firm ride ZM6: off road/very firm ride ZR2: heavy duty off road each option had different combinations of spring rates, sway bar sizes, and shock rates,types, and even brands... and different cab styles with the same suspension option, Z85 for example, used on a reg. cab, and a crew cab did not use identical springs and swaybars. there were literally dozens of combinations used sometimes... so NO, they arent all the same... this was also available on 2wd trucks, most commonly the long beds IIRC, mainly because that's how Ryo's (greencactus3) truck, and mine came from the factory, i also believe that mine had an add a leaf kit as well, since Ive had over 2500 pounds in the bed of it, and the suspension still didnt bottom out, actually it was about as low as I am now with just the two leafs and overload, I kind of miss how stiff the suspension was since I could go around corners and hit a bump and would just feel, well, a bump, now it bounces some and i get quite a bit of body roll, but the smoother ride is nice. Last edited by old_skool_noma : 04-13-2009 at 02:21 PM.
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04-14-2009, 09:37 PM	#35
amwworks I'm Just Here Age: 22 Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 96 Location: Southeast, MI User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? Quote: Originally Posted by Crew Cab Sonoma not aware of that one.. you have any info on it? Thats the suspension package I have on my truck, and its a 4x4. Thats all I know.
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09-17-2009, 10:24 PM	#36
djmomentum Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 1 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: 1998 Chevy S10 4.3 ZR2 What to expect? OK, So it sounds like the ZR2 is a good strong truck. I am looking to by one from a guy I work with for $1000. The catch is that the Bed is crushed on the passenger side. Is there any where online to find a used or new replacement bed for the truck? It does not have to match the original paint I Plan on painting the truck after I find a Bed. Another thing, Do these trucks have to have a specific bed or can I get any S10 or GMC Sonoma to work?
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