1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS). - S-10 Forum
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Talking 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

Hey guys,

Well, I have finally grown the rocks to go and get the EGR restrictor plate.

Props to MDWperformance.com in helping me with this review and installation guide. It looks like I'm going to be drilling out my holes at 1/8" just so I don't have to climb into the EGR area again seeing that it is sooo tight.

Here is what I got.



And a couple long bolts and two nutz.



As everyone knows, seems to be a gap in the 1995 4.3L Vortec becuase everyone covers the pre 1994 install and 1996-present install, but nothing for the 1995 that had the electronic EGR.

Well, this is just a start, should be installing it soon, stay tuned.


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post #2 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 07:54 PM
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do you think i could make a restrictor plate with no holes in it fo rmy 94 4.3l. I have one installed but it has 5/32 holes in it

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post #3 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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did it make a difference in driving after you installed it?

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post #4 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 07:57 PM
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umm I agree, I hope you're drilling holes in that...

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post #5 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 07:58 PM
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yea i noticed a small increase in the low end

(((FOR SALE)))1994 s-10 lb, 4.3L, auto, teal ,176k (150k are hwy miles). The truck runs excellent, and is very quick. Mechanically perfect. Cragar ss wheels, new tires. Many new parts. Very clean interior. $3,500. PM ME FOR FULL DESCRIPTION!!
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post #6 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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rlith,

Read my first post again.

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post #7 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 08:02 PM
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ohh my bad

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post #8 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 08:10 PM
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my bad too... Start at 5/32 then, increase as needed (smaller the better)

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post #9 of 25 Old 09-29-2003, 08:24 PM
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honestly i beleive that there is no reason to drill a hole where the egr plunger goes since the plunger really plugs it up anyway

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post #10 of 25 Old 09-30-2003, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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The setup from MDWperformance.com seems to be quite the nice setup, you throw away the existing bolts and hand screw in two threaded studs and just feed the gasket, the restrictor, another gasket , the valve and then the nuts and tighten it up.

No having to line things up, just slide it on.



I showed the pics to the guys that did it with the existing bolts and they say that with this threaded stud setup it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes. Hope they are right.

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post #11 of 25 Old 10-06-2003, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Holes are drilled. The top one is a little off center but it won't make a difference.



The holes were drilled 5/32" and are a little bigger than the 1/8 people say to use. I personally don't want to be doing this over and over and over. So going a little higher won't effect the mod.

Weather here is supposed to be beautiful tomorrow so I am going for it.

Wish me luck.

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post #12 of 25 Old 10-07-2003, 12:42 PM
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i already did a write up on my 93 vin W on how to replace EGR so this would go along with it. its up in the s-series how-to section

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post #13 of 25 Old 10-07-2003, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, it is installed. Man, what a pain in the ASS!!!

Here is the exact way I did the install. I followed a guy named 94TBlazer @ S-Series.org.

Thread is at http://forums.s-series.org/viewtopic.php?t=23334

Here is what he said.

The EGR valve is located on the front of the intake manifold just below and to the passenger side of the "throttle body". There are two 10MM bolts holding it on and both are a PITA to get to, but not impossible.

Remove the short pencil brace from the back of the AC compressor to the manifold. This makes room to remove the EGR valve. There's one 13 MM bolt and a 14 MM nut.

Next remove the air cleaner box and intake hose from the throttle body. I take it out as a unit. The IAT sensor is on the bottom side of the hose to the throttle body, don't forget to disconnect that.

Disconnect the electrical connection from the EGR valve. Now you are ready to remove the EGR bolts.

From the front of the engine, the RH bolt is the toughest. Get a 10MM socket and a long extension. Go straight at it, just under the electrical connection on the valve. Be careful retrieving the bolt, as there's no room for your fingers and it can easily drop. I have a telescoping magent that I use to make sure I don't drop it.

The bolt on the other side just requires a 10MM box-end wrench and many 1/16 turns.

Once the valve is unbolted, work it out where you removed the pencil brace.

Looking at the valve removed, the are two ports. A large one and a small one with a pintle that has a torx-socket depression in the center of it. Look for any small carbon chunks keeping the pintle valve from seating. If there is, you've found your problem and need to pick it out.

Regardless, take a can of carb cleaner and spray liberally in both holes to remove as much of the deposits as possible. If the valve is seated, you can push it down to make sure the carb cleaner gets into the port and seat.

Once that's done, go back to the truck and inspect the ports on the manifold. If there's any chuncks there, do the same and pick them out. Then spray again with carb cleaner.



Ok, here is where I start in again......

With the EGR removed, I screwed the studs into the existing holes. The left one went in fine but the right one was an absolute bitch to get in enough to bite the threads and get a good hold. The threads were a little rusty on that side so I installed everything once but didn't get enough bite so I had to take everything out again and start over. Man, stressful.

I then took the old bolt and screwed it in and out numerous times to get the rust out and put a little bit of oil to lube it up a bit. I retried putting in the stud and gladly, I was able to get enough of it in there to bit properly. I slid on the one EGR gasket, the restrictor, another gasket and the valve. To everyone, the valve will take some work getting into place and took at least 10 minutes itself to get in properly.

Ok, well, I put on the nut on the right stud an tightened it slightly then worked on the bitch of a task of getting the left one on. It will take some work and the paper towel in the socket trick will help you.

Ok, it's installed, WHEW!

While the intake was still off I took the liberty of giving the throttle plate a good blast and whipe with the throttle body cleaner. It was pretty damn dirty and I got all the grim out so it would seat properly on idle. With it in clean shape, onto the intake.

I reinstalled everything and found that my K&N Filtercharger was a little dirty so I rotated it 180 for now so the clean part was available for the incoming air coming into the filter intake box port.

Now I also noted that the filter lid was not hooked on properly and has been open on the bottom end for the past year. I reset it up properly while it was out of the truck and it's back to normal.

Also, everyone, make sure your pipe clamps on your intake hoses are tight. The clamp attaching the assembly to the engine was finger tight which might be causing some problems. It was finger tight and really easy to loosen off so when I reattached it, I made sure that it was nice and tight.

THE TEST DRIVE

Welp, I was really nervous when I reattached the negative battery cable and hooked up all the sensor and it was go time for the startup. I hit the key and the engine fired up within two rolls of the engine. Now, this isn't normal, but the throttle body cleaner probably in the intake allowed for the quick startup. The engine spit and sputtered a bit until it cleared the cleaner and the idle smoothed out pretty well, but there was a miss here and there. So, I shut it down and waited 5 minutes while I had a gulp of coffee and a relaxing smoke (I was so stressed).

I fired it up again and let it warm up and idle down and the first difference was noted.

Idle dropped 50-100rpm. Nice and smooth. It hasn't idled this nice in a while.

Ok, now the true test, on the highway.

Getting my space to pop onto the street through traffic, I gave the throttle a little bit of a push and it is true.

RESPONSIVENESS IS UP

Acceleration was noticable stronger also. And no guys, I am not imagining it. Acceleration was indeed smoother, stronger and a lot more constant. All is well and I'm impressed.

I tripped over to the local Petro-Canada gas station and threw in 40 liters of 87 octane fuel and gave the tank a shot of fuel injector cleaner. Then it was off to a Tim Hortons drive through for a coffee for the highway test drive.

After the drive through, I went up a sidestreet which had a moderate incline and the engine did power up the hill with a little more ease, another problem showed its head.

PINGING

Pinging was definitely happening more often. But only within the 1900-2300rpm range. IF I stomped on the gas, the pinging would instantly go away and the truck would accelerate, and boy, does it accelerate now. WOW!

Also, If I'm idling along at 80kms per hour and 1500-1700 rpms there is nothing, the engine purrs perfectly. Only on moderate acceleration and going up hill while accelerating does it happen.

Now I also noticed that the engine is now less willing to downshift while going up hills and it likes to power up then which is a definite improvement. Before, if there was any incline while at highway speeds, the engine would kick down a gear quite easily. Good to see that it is fixed or at least better now.

The pinging and lifter clatter is really bad at about 2100rpm and at highway speeds.

Now, I'm wondering if I got a shit tank of gas or I need to go up an octane level to counteract the less exhaust going into the engine. The burn will be a little hotter, so maybe a cooler burning, higher octane fuel is in order.

Another thing I am thinking about is that the air filter is plugged. It's definitely dirty and maybe the engine is now a little staved of air seeing that it night have the need for more because the exhaust in the cylinder is less.

Now on the otherhand, remember that I said that the air filter box wasn't set up properly and was sucking in air directly onto the filter from the bottom. MAybe now that i have sealed it back up properly it isn't getting anough air. Would make sense. Air staved engines will tend to ping and rattle a bit.

Now, also, the engine computer was reset so maybe it needs some time and driving to get things properly configured and setup correctly. I only drove it about 15 miles for the test, so maybe I need some more time.

So many things to test, so little time.

Anyone have any ideas or seen the same thing with there restrictor?

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post #14 of 25 Old 10-07-2003, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well, all I can say is that I just installed the restrictor.

There is more power, more punch and better acceleration.

BUT, the pinging and detonation is absolutely NOT worth the effort. It works great until 1800rpm or above 2500rpm when you stomp on the gas, but the racket and pinging on normal acceleration is driving me crazy.

The pinging is really really bad on mild acceleration and it sounds like an old beater. Couple that with the cruise rpm's jumping 200-300rpm while your foot is off the gas and decelerating and you have a mix that caused my engine light to come on and stay on.

The restrictor is coming off tomorrow and the EGR is going to put back the way it is. It's that or I'll ruin my engine.

It is just that bad.

The one positive thing I DID gain from this is the knowledge to do such a repair for myself if the EGR ever goes bad in the future. And now I have a clean EGR valve without any carbon thanks to throttle body cleaner and a little effort.

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post #15 of 25 Old 10-08-2003, 01:21 PM
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post #16 of 25 Old 12-27-2008, 07:46 AM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

wow seems like alot of work, i just bought the same thing from gm for $5 it looks just like your except u dont drill holes or anything u just pitch the old egr and bolt on the new plate and gasket w/ the stock bolts and ur done. its for export only s10's going to like saud arabi where isntany emmisions controls.
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

my 94 pings a little on 87 weither the egr is plugged up and working or not. I currently have it unplugged (cel is on) due to a surging problem after i repalced the cpi unit. I have always run 809 octane in the truck with no problem. Here lately i have been running 93 due to i get about 3 more mpg and it runs so good. while it is only 1.60 or so a gallon i will run 93.

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post #18 of 25 Old 12-27-2008, 08:04 PM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

Quote:
Originally Posted by snoplow View Post
wow seems like alot of work, i just bought the same thing from gm for $5 it looks just like your except u dont drill holes or anything u just pitch the old egr and bolt on the new plate and gasket w/ the stock bolts and ur done. its for export only s10's going to like saud arabi where isntany emmisions controls.
That's all fine and dandy until the check engine light comes on and it will unless you had your computer reprogrammed. The small holes gives just enough airflow to keep the check engine light off. I still get a light once in a while. I just clear it and drive on. I made a small thin plate from aluminum using a gasket as a template. Cost me nothing except a gasket.

I have blocked off totally older GM vehicles EGR but they had no electronics attached to them to monitor them so no light.

My 95 ran better and it keeps dirty hot air from being introduced into my intake. I would like to block totally but would get the light but just can't see paying several hundred bucks to have the puter reprogrammed.

Last edited by Jetmeck; 12-27-2008 at 08:07 PM.
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post #19 of 25 Old 12-28-2008, 05:31 AM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

i just pulled my cluster and took the bulb out of the instrument panel. and u get the cel i thought because when the system does a self test it gets no signal from the egr, i didnt know it had anything to do w/ the a/f ratio, thats interesting.
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post #20 of 25 Old 12-28-2008, 05:55 AM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

You might want to know if something else goes wrong so I would put that bulb back in. Yes the computer knows if you have low or insufficient egr air flow.
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post #21 of 25 Old 12-28-2008, 10:40 AM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

i took mine off of my 01 and i dont have any pinging or any noise. just a check engine light that stays on all the time.
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post #22 of 25 Old 12-29-2008, 12:18 AM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

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Originally Posted by tspears View Post
i took mine off of my 01 and i dont have any pinging or any noise. just a check engine light that stays on all the time.

I never had any pinging with ANY of my blocked off egr vehicles either.
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post #23 of 25 Old 04-07-2009, 03:14 PM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

Hey guys once you took the egr valve off and installed the block off plate did you guys just leave the connector for the egr just hanging or did you guys find some where to plug it up too???
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post #24 of 25 Old 04-07-2009, 05:56 PM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

once i got rid of my EGR system, i clipped the plug
and wires to it out of the harness.

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post #25 of 25 Old 04-07-2009, 08:10 PM
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Re: 1995 4.3L "W" Vortec EGR Restrictor Installation Guide (PICS).

i left my egr valve plugged in and just zip tied the whole thing up out of the way.
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