Where the frick is the ignition coil???

[Morgan89]

I guess I can forget about finding the negative side of the ignition coil, if I cant even find the damn thing. Trying to hook up a tach since my gay factory one is fubar and reads 5000 rpm at 60 mph , and 2k at idle.

Its that little black cannister looking thing with the two plugs on it, right??? How am I supposed to know which is the negative side when theres 4 or more wires on it.

Haynes manual helps 0%. I swear im just gonna light it on fire, not once has it helped the slightest bit, on any vehicles I have had!


87 s10...input is appriciated. thanks guys.

[The_Raven]

The haynes manual is good, I really don't understand why so many people have issues with the Haynes manuals, I use then frequently.

If you don't have a DMM, or know how to use one, or even how to identify an ignition coil, I suggest you either put the tools down, and do more learning about automobiles, and/or have someone else do this for you.

[BarryB]

It should be at the left rear of the intake. behind the Throttle body. You'll have to remove the breather to see it good. That's where it is on mine.

[Morgan89]

Quote: Originally Posted by The_Raven

The haynes manual is good, I really don't understand why so many people have issues with the Haynes manuals, I use then frequently.

If you don't have a DMM, or know how to use one, or even how to identify an ignition coil, I suggest you either put the tools down, and do more learning about automobiles, and/or have someone else do this for you.

The haynes manual is 100% horrible unless you have done it before, in which case you dont need the book. The pictures are never what you are looking for PERIOD... Even for a horn button the haynes manual basicly just says "Put it together". I would assume that means it simple, but turns out there was missing pieces.

I have rebuilt my TH350 on my k5 with my uncle, helped with a clutch, put in my transmission, tcase, did half of a head gasket replacement, wire trailers at work... but I have never done anything with the ignition except wires and plugs, a friend did the distributor cap and rotor when I went for a drink so didnt see the insides of that, if thats it.


I have complete dealer service manuals for our 98 K1500.. I wish I had some for the S10. Haynes isnt good for anything other than toilet paper, and even at that it is too dry.

BerryB: Ill try again in the morning, its the one with the two plugs correct, not the dist cap? Where would the negative side/terminal be? Ill also consult my 98 service manuals and see if they help at all. Thanks.

[SY2932]

Yep, you are looking at the ignition coil. All you have to do is follow the wire that is in the center of the distributor cap to where it ends... With regards to hooking up an after market tachometer and tapping into the negative ignition signal, check out my post here.

[dimerunner88]

heres some pics

now its red

in the first picture you can see the green wire on the right connected to a connector with a white wire, thats how my tach is hooked up. so the white is negative

[SY2932]

Quote: Originally Posted by dimerunner88

heres some pics. in the first picture you can see the green wire on the right connected to a connector with a white wire, thats how my tach is hooked up. so the white is negative

Nice pics but UGH, I'm not a fan of "scotch lock" connectors. I wish that I had a dime for every time that I have troubleshot an electrical problem back to one of those . Especially on stereo installs and trailers.

Looks like you a coolant leak in that quick disconnect fitting on your manifold. The guy who designed that should be made to remove every one that breaks off when you mess with it .

[dimerunner88]

Quote: Originally Posted by SY2932

Nice pics but UGH, I'm not a fan of "scotch lock" connectors. I wish that I had a dime for every time that I have troubleshot an electrical problem back to one of those . Especially on stereo installs and trailers.

Looks like you a coolant leak in that quick disconnect fitting on your manifold. The guy who designed that should be made to remove every one that breaks off when you mess with it .

haha, that scotch lock connector needs to be removed since it was just for testing voltage once and i no longer need it. yeah in know about the coolant leak,they're a pain in the ass so i'm delaying doing it as long as possible.

[Morgan89]

Thanks for the replies and pictures, im about to check out the thread.

I work at a Uhaul center and we use the scotchlocks on truck and customer trailer wiring, but not on the trailers. What about them do you not like? Im still kinda new to wiring, what would your prefered way be to do it? a butt connector with 1 into 2? I did my radio 1-2 connecting it to the ciggarette lighter, but used an inline fuse. I actually hooked up the power and the memory wire into it so the radio can be turned on at anytime. Got a 20a fuse in it, plus the cigg lighter fuse. Works great with a yellowtop at mud bogs and other events, with no worry of leaving the key in the ignition for somebody to drive of with.


Edit- The thread link... You said the grey connector, while dimerunner has it hooked to black. Whats the difference?

Also, where did the term "dime" come from when refering to s10s..? never heard that before here.

[The_Raven]

Scotch locks will actually cut the conductor (copper) strands and make the wire physically weaker.

The fact that the insulation is cut without being sealed will let moisture in, and cause the wire to corrode and lose connection. Under the hood is especially a poor place to use them, the only worse spot is under the vehicle where direct ater contact is imminant. I've repaired so many connections that used these, I have to wonder why they even make these.

I'll say it again, if you can easily look under the hood of one of these trucks and in a matter of seconds be able to identify where the ignition coil is, then you should have somebody do it for you, or have somebody there WITH you while you're doing it, that knows what they are doing.

[83blazer28]

i think he got a little confused because the ignition coil does not look like a regular ignition coil with the tall canister and the plastic top on it

[dimerunner88]

Quote: Originally Posted by Morgan89

Thanks for the replies and pictures, im about to check out the thread.

I work at a Uhaul center and we use the scotchlocks on truck and customer trailer wiring, but not on the trailers. What about them do you not like? Im still kinda new to wiring, what would your prefered way be to do it? a butt connector with 1 into 2? I did my radio 1-2 connecting it to the ciggarette lighter, but used an inline fuse. I actually hooked up the power and the memory wire into it so the radio can be turned on at anytime. Got a 20a fuse in it, plus the cigg lighter fuse. Works great with a yellowtop at mud bogs and other events, with no worry of leaving the key in the ignition for somebody to drive of with.


Edit- The thread link... You said the grey connector, while dimerunner has it hooked to black. Whats the difference?

Also, where did the term "dime" come from when refering to s10s..? never heard that before here.

my tach is connected to the black connector coming out of the grey connector on the coil,the white wires(atleast they're white on my full-size) are the grounds.