What all can be done to the 2.8?

[Outlawz24]

Since the truck seems to have fairly decent milage i figured i might as well play around a bit with the current 2.8 in it now and select parts i can transfer to a 3.4 HT later. So please let me know if im on the right track with this...

Headers
Edelbrock intake
redone stock or upgrade to 4 barrel carb

Anything else?

From what i have read thus far when it comes to the 3.4 HT...its just a drop in and reassemble with all my 2.8 external components correct? Im assuming i will have to use my stock oil pan due to my truck being a 4x4 correct?

[davet1960]

The first thing to consider when doing an engine swap is it will cost you three times what you expect it to cost you. If you are going to take on a project of this sort, you need basic wrenching skills, some fabrications skills, and an understanding of how things work.
Swaps are generally cheaper and easier if you match the transmission with the engine. If you plan to swap the transmission as well, do it at the same time and get an engine and transmission that will work together easily.
This is for all that want to do the 3.4 swap . IF you want every detail, well, some may be missing. Why? I used a 1985 engine platform. Your project may be different. What I did, was keep this goal in mind. I recreated exactly what I took out. It allowed my computer, wiring, etc to be assured to function, properly. It has. I have heard variations, too.
One guy used the 3.4 oil pan and already on the timing chain cover & matching water pump 3.4. Another "hole" was made, for mounting some bracketry. His platform was a 1989.
Again, this is my tips for my package, a 1985 Firebird, starting with a 2.8 Multi Port Fuel Injection. I will not go into removing engines. I will give tips.
DO NOT disturb your throttle body settings or cables. My tranny shifted perfect and the car, idled well. So I only removed it off the intake and shoved it aside. You can do this and not break wires, cables etc.
AC Compressor- Even tho, I had no AC charge, I only removed it from the bracketry and shoved it aside.
Alternator- same idea, move it to the side.
NOW, Start labeling the OBVIOUS items.
In my instance, I'm an engineer, NOT a mechanic, so I have to.
I marked the Fuel Injector harness (my way, you can mark yours your way. I use Front passenger side, Front driver side, Middle ,etc...).
Same idea with spark plug wiring. I did not remove wires from dist. cap. Why should I, no need. I'm being lazy, less to re-hook up.
Then start unbolting, wires, hoses, etc. Again, the obvious.
If you can get away without touching the hose, wire, bolt, LEAVE IT!! Eventually, the engine will be ready to remove.
The fun part is the tranny bolts. They are (my instance) 15mm and NO WORKING ROOM AT ALL. Try a 24' 1/2' drive extension with a universal, But.. Some tranny bolts, you can only slide back, not remove. The firewall is in the way. Oh, why not!
How else I cheated:

I disconnnected the torque convertor from the flex plate, left it attached to the tranny. NO TRUE NEED TO REMOVE MOVE IT!
Exhaust was easy, difficult. Those bolts have gone thru a heating cycle, many times over. Be prepared for fun, there. But, it can be removed, without destroying what you need to keep in mind, the pipes and manifolds separate.
Then after, you feel you have removed, labeled everything. Stop. Go have lunch, beer, dinner. Come back again later. Look at where you are.
Examine:
Is this labeled, so I can reinstall, easy? Is this outta the way?
Opps, this got broken, better make a note and make sure to get this part, now.
Again, obvious, easy solutions. It's all in the details.
Get ready.
Remove the engine. Lots of fun, excitment, cursing, worry, bloody knuckles. more cursing
GO SLOW, OBSERVE, GO SLOW, OBSERVE.
Have help, too!
To aid my job, I removed the hood. I removed the hood at the fenders, not the hood. No adjustment, needed to reinstall. I'm lazy. If you're gonna climb into the bay, to help engine out, be careful.
Get it out, now and put it on a tire or leave in the air. Start removing the old motor mounts, old oil filter housing, old balancer, old oil pan, old starter, old timing chain cover, old distributor. That should do the block.
Start cleaning. I used a paint brush & kerosene. Then a rag with brake cleaner on it. I cleaned gasket surface. Then I cleaned surface again. I put it aside. I layed engine, pretty stripped now, onto the tire. It's a dead engine, you cannot hurt it. Then started with the top end. I have a three piece intake system. Yours may/may not. Again, every version will be different/same. I put all parts from the 2.8, cleaned, ready for installing, aside.
Oh, I forgot the vacuum hoses are fragile. But, you already discovered that, didn't you!
Let's start wiht the other block, the 3.4.
How I ordered it. I asked for the intake system attached, Ex. manifolds attached, oil pan attached, 3.4 balancer & flex plate, plug wires attached, I forgot to ask for the extra starter, drat!
You do not need the 3.4 ignition system. You cannot use it!
Get the 3.4 up in the air. Strip the oil pan, filter housing, timing chain cover, flex plate, etc.
Now, start attaching the old 2.8 stuff onto the 3.4 block.
USING A NEW TIMING CHAIN & NEW WATER PUMP (chains are about $30-ish, pump was $19).
AGAIN, YOU ARE RECREATING THE OLD 2.8 BLOCK, JUST USING THE 3.4 BLOCK, NOW TO PUT BACK ON THE "OTHER 2.8" STUFF!!
Keep this goal in mind.
IT ALL FITS, WORKS!
DO NOT TOUCH THE 3.4 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS, LEAVE THEM ALONE!!
This is easy, detailed. Start at one end, side, complete it with the parts, move on. You have 3 sides to work on, drivers, bottom, passenger sides.
THEN go to the front! The timing chain cover, the chain, the balancer.
Yea, there are exact details how to reinsatll. That's what the shop manulas are for. USE IT! They do have some helpful tips. AGAIN USE YOUR RESOURCES.
We are done with the short block. Lets' go up top.
On the 3.4 block, I really ran into ONLY ONE PROBLEM! The block at the back of the passenger side cylinder head, where (for me) the electric fan switch sensor went into the head. Tha block, is a 5/16' size plug.
HOW I DID IT.
I almost abandoned the project!
I went to the hardware store and got a 5/16 steel stud rod item. Paid about $1.50. my friend took out his torch (REAL, NOT THE TOY ONES) and heated it. Out it came. I slipped pipe sealant onto the threads (but, that's obvious, anytime you put a bolt, into a water passage, ISN'T IT!!), inserted new sensor (destroyed old one removing-remember I said, observe, be careful, I wasted $22 for that!). Done.
Driver side, had no problems.
NOW the intake, etc.
YOU NEED TO SWAP THE 3.4 INJECTORS ONTO THE 2.8 FUEL RAIL. How? I used a screwdrive to assist to remove the clips. BUT in the process, I got dirt inside the fuel rail. Guess what, I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. INSIDE TOO! I mean sparkle! Then used a oily substance (that won't break down that rubber seal) and slipped on the 3.4 injectors.
Done. I also swapped fuel pressure regulators, even tho they are identical. WHY. The 3.4 one was newer, & newer rubber seals.
Intakes.
I removed the push rods.
THIS IS YOUR CALL.
I put on the new gaskets, cleaned all areas, real through, layed on the RTV black into the corners, pushed it in, worked it into the crevices. Let it cure for a few moments. Layed down intake. That was done. Valve adjustment.
Had a real hard time.
Eventually set the valves by a compression tester. We needed it. Any extra little twist generated no cylinder compression.
We set the valves in the engine bay using the starter to turn over the engine. I ended up with 175-200 compression, each cylinder.
THEN lay down the valve covers, middle and upper intake. Try to do it a different way and you cannot!
Distributor. There is a block in the back of the block to remove. It's a "short oil gear drive off the cam, for the oil pump". That's what that does. Swap in your old distrbutor.
Now you're ready to go.
Hook up exhaust manifolds, start engine, time, drive away, happy.
IS it this simple, yes.
Again, keep the goal in mind, recreate exactly what you started with. That's the easiest way to go.
What I bought.
A COMPLETE ENGINE GASKET KIT FOR THE OLD OLD OLD OLD ENGINE. Not the new 3.4.
I also got a rear main seal.
I also got new hoses (dealer item!) for the bypass area up in the front.
New timing chain.
New water pump.
I USED A SMLAL BLCOK CHEVY DISTRIBUTOR GASKET FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR, not that hookey rubber joke of a ring thing!
NEW EXHAUST MANIFOLD DOUGHNUTS. The RIGHT ONES! Not the hookey generic ones!
I SPENT ONE WHOLE DAY ON VACUUM HOSES AND SEALING ANY LEAKS! Everytime I touched those plastic things, it broke,. I used 5/16" windshield hose to band aid, patch, you name it! I even used electrical tape (to take up slack, looseness), at that fitting at the back, by the distributor, because the 1/2" hose was to large, 3/8" was to small.
But, I am running at 20-22 inches of vacuum at idle, in gear idle is 15-17 inches of vacuum. THAT'S INCREDIBLE!
I have no oil leaks.
I have no water leaks (my bypass metal hose cracked, got it fixed for $5). I use no oil, I use some water.
I think I've given ya a good foundation to understand what is necessary to do this swap.
NOW...I've done two swaps before I did this (I'm 47). Both worked, but, not great!
This one was perfect!
I took my time, I rushed, I observed, I checked, I asked, I cheated, I double checked, I WAS as ANAL as any engineer!
I now let my Wife take the car with my kids as passengers.
You need time, space, common sense, knowledge and friends to pull this off. And a good garage close by, for questions, special fluids, etc.
Also this place. I asked lots of questions, I printed out 8 pages of notes from 3-4 different forums, I had both engines side by side, LOOKED AT MY NOTES! and then I went to work.
Did I leave out some details, you bet.
I don't know every detail of your vehicle. BUT, I layed out the general guidelines for the swap. Again, it's all there, you need the patience to do this job. When you get the 3.4 block, look at it, become familar with it, before you rip apart your old block or even take it outta the car.
Again, observe, look, check, double check, etc.
Oh, did I remove radiator?
Why? It's not in the way.
How did I hold up tranny, Floor jack and a stick, cause two bolts hung out to support the tranny.
Before you ask any questions, consider this.
Until you have the engines out, or even the 3.4 in your posession, you cannot really understand what the simple solution may really be.
I gave guide lines.
I'm not there to help ya, but, I'm here to answer questions.
Maybe not exactly the timely answer, but, that's good. You are thinking outside of the box.
Be careful, these things can hurt and kill ya if you are stupid. Check everything before you start removing and keep stupid friends clear out of harms way. Who needs their aggrivation, when you are on a mission!
After I did my swap, I had a few teething pains (like my 3 year old!).
I used the computer reader tool to answer my questions (I had a bad mass air flow sensor). I used extra time to reseal or wrap an extra hot air source (the EGR valve stuff).
That's pretty much about it.
I now need to swap in guage panel (what I haven't sone that yet, oh well, I check fluids OFTEN!!).
OH, ONE FINAL WORD, CHECK ALL ALL ALL ALL WATER HOSE CONNECTIONS, EVEN ONES YOU DID NOT TOUCH!
This swap is so worth it.
IF ya gotta rebuild something, do it now. Distributor, rebuild it! Don't even think of just slapping it back in, as it was. Get new electronics under there.
Best thing about rebuilding stuff now, with the old block, it'll put off having to swap blocks, as you'll discover a smoother running more powerful 2.8/3.1 engine.
Oh, can you bore this or that to make a 3.4?
Be my guest.
For $800 I got it all, warrantied for 30-60 days. I sold the left over 3.4 stuff for $105. I didn't waste time trying to create what I could buy, complete for so little pocket change! Compared to machining costs etc.
Until you get both engines, just print this out. And read it. And get a shop manual and look for your answer. You may gain more knowledge in the process.
When you get the chance to do this swap, you'll see the answer, too! You really do need the engines side by side to see all the differences and similarities.
Another reason why I did this swap was to fool the smog police. He thinks I have the original 2.8 in there! I'd have to pay an extra $300 for asmog recertification sticker to get a smog test. NOPE! I pay for smog test & go goodbye!
Have a pleasant time!
And a wonderful Easter holiday. Count your blessings! I do and I am, every mornign with my Wife and Son.
I'll be porting and polishing my other cylinder heads for my small block Chevy's and maybe swapping a motorcycle engine for the third time (remember I told you I wasn't successful on a swap!! This was it!).

[SH-60B]

Quote: Originally Posted by davet1960

The first thing to consider when doing an engine swap is it will cost you three times what you expect it to cost you. If you are going to take on a project of this sort, you need basic wrenching skills, some fabrications skills, and an understanding of how things work.
Swaps are generally cheaper and easier if you match the transmission with the engine. If you plan to swap the transmission as well, do it at the same time and get an engine and transmission that will work together easily.
This is for all that want to do the 3.4 swap . IF you want every detail, well, some may be missing. Why? I used a 1985 engine platform. Your project may be different. What I did, was keep this goal in mind. I recreated exactly what I took out. It allowed my computer, wiring, etc to be assured to function, properly. It has. I have heard variations, too.
One guy used the 3.4 oil pan and already on the timing chain cover & matching water pump 3.4. Another "hole" was made, for mounting some bracketry. His platform was a 1989.
Again, this is my tips for my package, a 1985 Firebird, starting with a 2.8 Multi Port Fuel Injection. I will not go into removing engines. I will give tips.
DO NOT disturb your throttle body settings or cables. My tranny shifted perfect and the car, idled well. So I only removed it off the intake and shoved it aside. You can do this and not break wires, cables etc.
AC Compressor- Even tho, I had no AC charge, I only removed it from the bracketry and shoved it aside.
Alternator- same idea, move it to the side.
NOW, Start labeling the OBVIOUS items.
In my instance, I'm an engineer, NOT a mechanic, so I have to.
I marked the Fuel Injector harness (my way, you can mark yours your way. I use Front passenger side, Front driver side, Middle ,etc...).
Same idea with spark plug wiring. I did not remove wires from dist. cap. Why should I, no need. I'm being lazy, less to re-hook up.
Then start unbolting, wires, hoses, etc. Again, the obvious.
If you can get away without touching the hose, wire, bolt, LEAVE IT!! Eventually, the engine will be ready to remove.
The fun part is the tranny bolts. They are (my instance) 15mm and NO WORKING ROOM AT ALL. Try a 24' 1/2' drive extension with a universal, But.. Some tranny bolts, you can only slide back, not remove. The firewall is in the way. Oh, why not!
How else I cheated:

I disconnnected the torque convertor from the flex plate, left it attached to the tranny. NO TRUE NEED TO REMOVE MOVE IT!
Exhaust was easy, difficult. Those bolts have gone thru a heating cycle, many times over. Be prepared for fun, there. But, it can be removed, without destroying what you need to keep in mind, the pipes and manifolds separate.
Then after, you feel you have removed, labeled everything. Stop. Go have lunch, beer, dinner. Come back again later. Look at where you are.
Examine:
Is this labeled, so I can reinstall, easy? Is this outta the way?
Opps, this got broken, better make a note and make sure to get this part, now.
Again, obvious, easy solutions. It's all in the details.
Get ready.
Remove the engine. Lots of fun, excitment, cursing, worry, bloody knuckles. more cursing
GO SLOW, OBSERVE, GO SLOW, OBSERVE.
Have help, too!
To aid my job, I removed the hood. I removed the hood at the fenders, not the hood. No adjustment, needed to reinstall. I'm lazy. If you're gonna climb into the bay, to help engine out, be careful.
Get it out, now and put it on a tire or leave in the air. Start removing the old motor mounts, old oil filter housing, old balancer, old oil pan, old starter, old timing chain cover, old distributor. That should do the block.
Start cleaning. I used a paint brush & kerosene. Then a rag with brake cleaner on it. I cleaned gasket surface. Then I cleaned surface again. I put it aside. I layed engine, pretty stripped now, onto the tire. It's a dead engine, you cannot hurt it. Then started with the top end. I have a three piece intake system. Yours may/may not. Again, every version will be different/same. I put all parts from the 2.8, cleaned, ready for installing, aside.
Oh, I forgot the vacuum hoses are fragile. But, you already discovered that, didn't you!
Let's start wiht the other block, the 3.4.
How I ordered it. I asked for the intake system attached, Ex. manifolds attached, oil pan attached, 3.4 balancer & flex plate, plug wires attached, I forgot to ask for the extra starter, drat!
You do not need the 3.4 ignition system. You cannot use it!
Get the 3.4 up in the air. Strip the oil pan, filter housing, timing chain cover, flex plate, etc.
Now, start attaching the old 2.8 stuff onto the 3.4 block.
USING A NEW TIMING CHAIN & NEW WATER PUMP (chains are about $30-ish, pump was $19).
AGAIN, YOU ARE RECREATING THE OLD 2.8 BLOCK, JUST USING THE 3.4 BLOCK, NOW TO PUT BACK ON THE "OTHER 2.8" STUFF!!
Keep this goal in mind.
IT ALL FITS, WORKS!
DO NOT TOUCH THE 3.4 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS, LEAVE THEM ALONE!!
This is easy, detailed. Start at one end, side, complete it with the parts, move on. You have 3 sides to work on, drivers, bottom, passenger sides.
THEN go to the front! The timing chain cover, the chain, the balancer.
Yea, there are exact details how to reinsatll. That's what the shop manulas are for. USE IT! They do have some helpful tips. AGAIN USE YOUR RESOURCES.
We are done with the short block. Lets' go up top.
On the 3.4 block, I really ran into ONLY ONE PROBLEM! The block at the back of the passenger side cylinder head, where (for me) the electric fan switch sensor went into the head. Tha block, is a 5/16' size plug.
HOW I DID IT.
I almost abandoned the project!
I went to the hardware store and got a 5/16 steel stud rod item. Paid about $1.50. my friend took out his torch (REAL, NOT THE TOY ONES) and heated it. Out it came. I slipped pipe sealant onto the threads (but, that's obvious, anytime you put a bolt, into a water passage, ISN'T IT!!), inserted new sensor (destroyed old one removing-remember I said, observe, be careful, I wasted $22 for that!). Done.
Driver side, had no problems.
NOW the intake, etc.
YOU NEED TO SWAP THE 3.4 INJECTORS ONTO THE 2.8 FUEL RAIL. How? I used a screwdrive to assist to remove the clips. BUT in the process, I got dirt inside the fuel rail. Guess what, I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. INSIDE TOO! I mean sparkle! Then used a oily substance (that won't break down that rubber seal) and slipped on the 3.4 injectors.
Done. I also swapped fuel pressure regulators, even tho they are identical. WHY. The 3.4 one was newer, & newer rubber seals.
Intakes.
I removed the push rods.
THIS IS YOUR CALL.
I put on the new gaskets, cleaned all areas, real through, layed on the RTV black into the corners, pushed it in, worked it into the crevices. Let it cure for a few moments. Layed down intake. That was done. Valve adjustment.
Had a real hard time.
Eventually set the valves by a compression tester. We needed it. Any extra little twist generated no cylinder compression.
We set the valves in the engine bay using the starter to turn over the engine. I ended up with 175-200 compression, each cylinder.
THEN lay down the valve covers, middle and upper intake. Try to do it a different way and you cannot!
Distributor. There is a block in the back of the block to remove. It's a "short oil gear drive off the cam, for the oil pump". That's what that does. Swap in your old distrbutor.
Now you're ready to go.
Hook up exhaust manifolds, start engine, time, drive away, happy.
IS it this simple, yes.
Again, keep the goal in mind, recreate exactly what you started with. That's the easiest way to go.
What I bought.
A COMPLETE ENGINE GASKET KIT FOR THE OLD OLD OLD OLD ENGINE. Not the new 3.4.
I also got a rear main seal.
I also got new hoses (dealer item!) for the bypass area up in the front.
New timing chain.
New water pump.
I USED A SMLAL BLCOK CHEVY DISTRIBUTOR GASKET FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR, not that hookey rubber joke of a ring thing!
NEW EXHAUST MANIFOLD DOUGHNUTS. The RIGHT ONES! Not the hookey generic ones!
I SPENT ONE WHOLE DAY ON VACUUM HOSES AND SEALING ANY LEAKS! Everytime I touched those plastic things, it broke,. I used 5/16" windshield hose to band aid, patch, you name it! I even used electrical tape (to take up slack, looseness), at that fitting at the back, by the distributor, because the 1/2" hose was to large, 3/8" was to small.
But, I am running at 20-22 inches of vacuum at idle, in gear idle is 15-17 inches of vacuum. THAT'S INCREDIBLE!
I have no oil leaks.
I have no water leaks (my bypass metal hose cracked, got it fixed for $5). I use no oil, I use some water.
I think I've given ya a good foundation to understand what is necessary to do this swap.
NOW...I've done two swaps before I did this (I'm 47). Both worked, but, not great!
This one was perfect!
I took my time, I rushed, I observed, I checked, I asked, I cheated, I double checked, I WAS as ANAL as any engineer!
I now let my Wife take the car with my kids as passengers.
You need time, space, common sense, knowledge and friends to pull this off. And a good garage close by, for questions, special fluids, etc.
Also this place. I asked lots of questions, I printed out 8 pages of notes from 3-4 different forums, I had both engines side by side, LOOKED AT MY NOTES! and then I went to work.
Did I leave out some details, you bet.
I don't know every detail of your vehicle. BUT, I layed out the general guidelines for the swap. Again, it's all there, you need the patience to do this job. When you get the 3.4 block, look at it, become familar with it, before you rip apart your old block or even take it outta the car.
Again, observe, look, check, double check, etc.
Oh, did I remove radiator?
Why? It's not in the way.
How did I hold up tranny, Floor jack and a stick, cause two bolts hung out to support the tranny.
Before you ask any questions, consider this.
Until you have the engines out, or even the 3.4 in your posession, you cannot really understand what the simple solution may really be.
I gave guide lines.
I'm not there to help ya, but, I'm here to answer questions.
Maybe not exactly the timely answer, but, that's good. You are thinking outside of the box.
Be careful, these things can hurt and kill ya if you are stupid. Check everything before you start removing and keep stupid friends clear out of harms way. Who needs their aggrivation, when you are on a mission!
After I did my swap, I had a few teething pains (like my 3 year old!).
I used the computer reader tool to answer my questions (I had a bad mass air flow sensor). I used extra time to reseal or wrap an extra hot air source (the EGR valve stuff).
That's pretty much about it.
I now need to swap in guage panel (what I haven't sone that yet, oh well, I check fluids OFTEN!!).
OH, ONE FINAL WORD, CHECK ALL ALL ALL ALL WATER HOSE CONNECTIONS, EVEN ONES YOU DID NOT TOUCH!
This swap is so worth it.
IF ya gotta rebuild something, do it now. Distributor, rebuild it! Don't even think of just slapping it back in, as it was. Get new electronics under there.
Best thing about rebuilding stuff now, with the old block, it'll put off having to swap blocks, as you'll discover a smoother running more powerful 2.8/3.1 engine.
Oh, can you bore this or that to make a 3.4?
Be my guest.
For $800 I got it all, warrantied for 30-60 days. I sold the left over 3.4 stuff for $105. I didn't waste time trying to create what I could buy, complete for so little pocket change! Compared to machining costs etc.
Until you get both engines, just print this out. And read it. And get a shop manual and look for your answer. You may gain more knowledge in the process.
When you get the chance to do this swap, you'll see the answer, too! You really do need the engines side by side to see all the differences and similarities.
Another reason why I did this swap was to fool the smog police. He thinks I have the original 2.8 in there! I'd have to pay an extra $300 for asmog recertification sticker to get a smog test. NOPE! I pay for smog test & go goodbye!
Have a pleasant time!
And a wonderful Easter holiday. Count your blessings! I do and I am, every mornign with my Wife and Son.
I'll be porting and polishing my other cylinder heads for my small block Chevy's and maybe swapping a motorcycle engine for the third time (remember I told you I wasn't successful on a swap!! This was it!).

Ho, ly, sh*t!

[Z28Camaro]

LOL! Yeah, thats what I thought!

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by davet1960

.In my instance, I'm an engineer, NOT a mechanic, so I have to.

Nothing more needs to be said.

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by Outlawz24

Since the truck seems to have fairly decent milage i figured i might as well play around a bit with the current 2.8 in it now and select parts i can transfer to a 3.4 HT later. So please let me know if im on the right track with this...

Headers
Headers will swap out between the two,
Edelbrock intake
I haven't messed with the carb version but why not.
redone stock or upgrade to 4 barrel carb
I wouldn't play with the carb too much till you get the 3.4 then buy one sized and tuned for it.


Anything else?
If the 2.8 is gonna be in the truck for awhile the fuel injected heads are better (86 and on) than the earlier ones.
From what i have read thus far when it comes to the 3.4 HT...its just a drop in and reassemble with all my 2.8 external components correct? Im assuming i will have to use my stock oil pan due to my truck being a 4x4 correct?

External the 3.4 and 2.8 are about 99% the exact same. You will want/have to use the s-series parts cause some of the stuff (brackets, exhaust manifolds, oil pan come to mind) are not the same between a f-body and s-series. I don't know if you've seen it but I post it for everybody asking about the swap. I wish I woulda found this before we done it on dads truck and had to learn by trial and error.

http://members.shaw.ca/betterthanyou...ine%20swap.htm

[Outlawz24]

Thank you for the link..that answers some of my questions..also thank you for your remarks in reguards to what can be done with the original engine. Ideally i would like to be using the HT 3.4 crate motor for the task mostly due to the fact that by the time im done with rebuilding a Camaro engine im probably at the same point cost wise anyways. Heres the link to the GM performance site with the crate engine.

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/En... 30&engCat=rpo

Also when it comes to the FI heads...Is the carb intake compatible with them? I do know that when it comes to the V8s that they changed some things when they went to TBI and centerbolt heads. So the older carbed intakes were no longer compatible with them..Just dont know if they did the same with the V6 or not. If not..cool..looks like im looking for some TBI heads and having them rebuilt to go on with the Edelbrock intake.

Im assuming the TBI heads have larger valves then the carbed heads? Just want to know the reason for the swap. More then likely will try to do some port matching when the top end is done as well..Will be doing the port matching on the 3.4 as well. What i cannot tell with the pic of the HT crate engine is if it has the 4x4 oil pan or the 4x2 oil pan.

Also thank you for confirming that i should just use the stock carb on the edelbrock intake and switch to a different carb when the crate engine is used.

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by Outlawz24

Thank you for the link..that answers some of my questions..also thank you for your remarks in reguards to what can be done with the original engine. Ideally i would like to be using the HT 3.4 crate motor for the task mostly due to the fact that by the time im done with rebuilding a Camaro engine im probably at the same point cost wise anyways. Heres the link to the GM performance site with the crate engine.

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/En... 30&engCat=rpo

Also when it comes to the FI heads...Is the carb intake compatible with them? yes I do know that when it comes to the V8s that they changed some things when they went to TBI and centerbolt heads. So the older carbed intakes were no longer compatible with them..Just dont know if they did the same with the V6 or not. Depends, you can modify older intakes to fit newer heads but since this aint the V8 section I won't go into that If not..cool..looks like im looking for some TBI heads and having them rebuilt to go on with the Edelbrock intake.

Im assuming the TBI heads have larger valves then the carbed heads? Bigger valves and flow a bit better Just want to know the reason for the swap. More then likely will try to do some port matching when the top end is done as well..Will be doing the port matching on the 3.4 as well. What i cannot tell with the pic of the HT crate engine is if it has the 4x4 oil pan or the 4x2 oil pan. From what I understand its the 2x unless your able to order it with a 4x4, never ordered one cause its cheaper for me to buy used and rebuild it myself.

Also thank you for confirming that i should just use the stock carb on the edelbrock intake and switch to a different carb when the crate engine is used. Don't jump the gun, I told you I've never messed with a carbed one and not even sure about anything on it. I just gave you my opinion and you know what those can be sometimes.

Good luck

[JRock10]

do many ppl not read the haynes manual when it says to unbolt the body and lift it off the frame 3" to gain clearance for the bellhousing bolts?

[SH-60B]

Quote: Originally Posted by JRock10

do many ppl not read the haynes manual when it says to unbolt the body and lift it off the frame 3" to gain clearance for the bellhousing bolts?

Did you read all that? Was that in there somewhere? Welcome to the forum, you sure you want to do this?

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by JRock10

do many ppl not read the haynes manual when it says to unbolt the body and lift it off the frame 3" to gain clearance for the bellhousing bolts?

Yeah right after I threw that crappy book under my band saw to help level it and real world experience kicked in and I used wobblies and extensions.

BTW chiltons is tons better but nothing beats the factory manuals.

[TCossuto]

I dont see wtf problem anyone has with the damn tranny bolts. I pull the dizzy and use a normal wrench from the top.... then a swivel socket w/ an extension for the side bolts.

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by TCossuto

I dont see wtf problem anyone has with the damn tranny bolts. I pull the dizzy and use a normal wrench from the top.... then a swivel socket w/ an extension for the side bolts.

lol exactly. I don't see the need to jack the body up and create so much extra work.

[Outlawz24]

I find the jacking the body part a moot point anyways...chances are im probably going to be doing the engine swap after my Blazer gets a 3" Body Lift anyways..But otherwise i would more then likely tear the top end off and gain access that way..Because if i dont go with a 3.4 im probably gonna just buy a TBI 2.8 and use its heads on the current engine while i rebuild the rest of the short block into a more potent engine..

[neo71665]

Just a warning, no headers fit with any body loft without major mods to either them or the steering shaft.

[Outlawz24]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

Just a warning, no headers fit with any body loft without major mods to either them or the steering shaft.

Damn...hmmm there is a shop here in town that might be able to make me some shorty headers that will work...

[ap72]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

Just a warning, no headers fit with any body loft without major mods to either them or the steering shaft.

I have long tubes on mine with a 3" body lift and they work fine... Maybe mine are just magic headers though.

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by ap72

I have long tubes on mine with a 3" body lift and they work fine... Maybe mine are just magic headers though.

What kind do you have? The only 2 places I've found that still make long tubes for a first gen s-series 4x4 is eldebrock and hedman. I've contacted both of them before I ever got my headers and they both told me they will not work with a BL with out modification to the drivers side header. I wound up getting the hedmans cause I got a set NIB for $120 and gave up on having a BL on this thing cause I like headers better than sitting higher on a DD that rarely sees any mud.

[Outlawz24]

what sort of mods would need to be done to the header? a bit of rebending to clear the steering shaft?

[Rustdaway]

On my 82, never had any problem getting to the tranny bolts. From the time I pulled the truck into the driveway to the time it was backed out it would take about 2 hours to replace the clutch. Just used a snap on swivel socket and hand wrenches. Didn't have an air compressor at that time. Would be quicker now with Air impact.

[ap72]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

What kind do you have? The only 2 places I've found that still make long tubes for a first gen s-series 4x4 is eldebrock and hedman. I've contacted both of them before I ever got my headers and they both told me they will not work with a BL with out modification to the drivers side header. I wound up getting the hedmans cause I got a set NIB for $120 and gave up on having a BL on this thing cause I like headers better than sitting higher on a DD that rarely sees any mud.

I have a 2wd- I'm using 2 piece headders from Headman though, I'm not sure if they're for 4wd or not...

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by ap72

I have a 2wd- I'm using 2 piece headders from Headman though, I'm not sure if they're for 4wd or not...

Big difference 2x and 4x, lol.