How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump - S-10 Forum
 
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post #1 of 45 Old 02-10-2010, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

I found this thought it would help some people.





A.I.R. Is used as a supplementary emission control system which helps burn up any fuel that made it past the combustion cycle and into the exhaust system. However once the engine has been running for a few minutes and the Oxygen Sensor is sending information to the ECM the solenoid is switched on the side of the A.I.R pump and it just cycles air back into the atmosphere and literally becomes another idler pulley. So why would you want to remove it? It doesn't rob any power and it reduces emissions at least for a few minutes. Well as vehicles get older and rack on the miles some people find that the pump simply seizes up. Plus the fact that on the S-10's it is mounted down low on the engine people who take their trucks off road and put them through water may find they don't last long at all. Also the pump can make noise after time and they just look plain ugly and take up a lot of room. So for many people the best solution is to just remove it. If you decide to go this route there is one important thing you need to consider. Removing emission equipment in the US and Canada is ILLEGAL in most areas. So check with your local laws. For off road use and on un insured types of vehicles it is typically not a problem. This may include trailered 4X4's, track cars and drag cars.
Removing the AIR system on a 2.8L is actually quite a simple process. It will require spending a bit of cash but it is less than buying A.I.R pump replacements. The first step is removing the whole pump and bracket assembly from the engine. Remove the bolt on the bottom side of the alternator bracket and the 2 bolts on the lower side of the engine block. Don't forget the single vacuum line, electrical connector and supply tube to the exhaust. On the exhaust supply tube just undo the hose clamp and pull off the rubber hose. Now you can take the A.I.R. system out of the vehicle. When this is done you will be left with two problems to solve. One, you will have a tube sticking out of you exhaust manifold that looks terrible. Two, you will have the wrong tensioner and belt arrangement. Don't worry these are easy to solve.


Here is the selection of parts that are removed from the front of the engine. It cleans up a lot of space and leaves a cleaner look when they are gone. If you were to re locate the battery at this point the entire front right corner under the hood would be clear.




Starting with the tube in the exhaust you need to find a way to remove it. The easy method, if you don't want to save the tube is to cut the tube with a pipe cutter just above the nut and remove the remaining nut with and impact gun and socket. The other method is to use a crows foot socket and a breaker bar. This piece will be hard to remove after several years of being subjected to exhaust heat. In most cases and open end wrench won't fit in the confines of an engine compartment so unless you are on an engine stand that option is out. With the fitting out you need to plug the hole. The thread is 7/8-18 which is not very common. It is used on some oil pans and on SAE Inverted Flare nuts. So the easiest thing to find is an oil pan plug from your local parts store. A hydraulic fitting shop may have the flare plug and you could use that. But the oil pan plug will be easier to find in most cases and then all you need is a 7/8" copper or brass washer to make the seal. Once you have these parts simply plug the hole in the exhaust manifold. Other solutions to this problem would be finding the passenger exhaust manifold from an Isuzu Rodeo with a 3.1L which has no A.I.R. system and so the hole in the manifold was never drilled and tapped. Or you could install a set of headers which would obviously eliminate this step.

This is the hole in the exhaust that needs to be plugged. The threads are 7/8-18 and can be plugged with an oil pan bolt or an male SAE Inverted Flare Plug


Here is the plug and washer needed to plug the hole in the manifold. They can be purchased and most parts stores.



Here is the plug and washer installed into the manifold. Make sure you clean up the rust build up on the surface where the washer seals against. Also if you need a tap to clean the threads it may be easier to tell the parts person you need to repair a 7/8-18 spark plug thread. Snap-On sells one as part number T2818 and it runs around $25. Just make sure you vacuum out any filings that drop down




Now on to the second problem. Since you have now removed one pulley from the belt system your belt will me much too long. Plus the tensioner is on the wrong angle. Do not try and just order a short belt and use the same tensioner. It does not work you will never find a belt you can actually slip on that will give you enough tension with the stock tensioner. However there are a few good solutions for this problem. One is simply buying GM tensioner 10099984 this tensioner is for an Isuzu Rodeo with a 3.1L V6. You can also drill and tap the stock tensioner and install a 1/4UNC Cap Head bolt which will create a new pin to re locate the tensioner and grind off the old pin. The new pulley will now ride on the other side of the belt and you may want to replace it with a ribbed pulley which is AC Delco part number 38009. When the tensioner is installed correctly order a serpentine belt for a 1991 Isuzu Rodeo, order weather you have A/C or Not and you will get the correct length belt.


Here is the back of the tensioner. This is an aftermarket replacement for a stock 2.8L. Notice the old pin position at the right. It was relocated by drilling and taping the aluminum casting. The pin is 90 degrees to the pulley. The pin is a 1/4UNC Allen head cap screw.



On the left is a ribbed pulley used when you remove the A.I.R pump. On the left is the standard pulley for trucks with A.I.R. It is not completely necessary to swap pulleys. The standard pulley will still properly tension the belt.



The first setup with A/C the second without. If you order a belt from a 1991 rodeo with a 3.1L V6 you will get the correct belt. Just make sure you specify if your truck has A/C or not.




Written by: Geoff Moore (betterthanyou)


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post #2 of 45 Old 02-10-2010, 05:56 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Somebody else just posted that a few days ago. Probably will hear from them shortly .

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post #3 of 45 Old 02-10-2010, 07:26 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

lmao, yep

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post #4 of 45 Old 02-28-2010, 08:27 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

I did this and now it runs too rich what could it be
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post #5 of 45 Old 09-03-2010, 10:32 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

GM tensioner 10099984

Can this part be found online?
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post #6 of 45 Old 09-04-2010, 02:53 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mesosneaky View Post
GM tensioner 10099984

Can this part be found online?
Really? you were online whne you posted that question. Did you google it? No? let me help you http://lmgtfy.com/?q=GM+tensioner+10099984

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post #7 of 45 Old 09-04-2010, 05:35 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by leprechaun1874 View Post
Really? you were online whne you posted that question. Did you google it? No? let me help you http://lmgtfy.com/?q=GM+tensioner+10099984
I googled an only found posts about the mod, and 1 autoparts stores auto-parts-car or some generic selling company. Anyone know of a reliable place to buy this or if it's called something else?

Or the year/engine size? I can try auto zone than.

Last edited by Mesosneaky; 09-04-2010 at 05:37 PM.
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post #8 of 45 Old 09-04-2010, 06:34 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Quote:
Or the year/engine size? I can try auto zone than.
It's listed as highlighted below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by built2rail_1 View Post
...One is simply buying GM tensioner 10099984 this tensioner is for an Isuzu Rodeo with a 3.1L V6. You can also drill and tap the stock tensioner and install a 1/4UNC Cap Head bolt which will create a new pin to re locate the tensioner and grind off the old pin.

... When the tensioner is installed correctly order a serpentine belt for a 1991 Isuzu Rodeo, order weather you have A/C or Not and you will get the correct length belt.

Here is the back of the tensioner. This is an aftermarket replacement for a stock 2.8L. Notice the old pin position at the right. It was relocated by drilling and taping the aluminum casting. The pin is 90 degrees to the pulley. The pin is a 1/4UNC Allen head cap screw.


On the left is a ribbed pulley used when you remove the A.I.R pump. On the left is the standard pulley for trucks with A.I.R. It is not completely necessary to swap pulleys. The standard pulley will still properly tension the belt.


The first setup with A/C the second without. If you order a belt from a 1991 rodeo with a 3.1L V6 you will get the correct belt. Just make sure you specify if your truck has A/C or not.



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post #9 of 45 Old 09-04-2010, 07:37 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

There are two different V6 3.1L engines in them. I guess it wouldn't matter?

3.1L/3137cc and 3.1L/189

Edit: Sorry about all the questions. I'll just head down to the parts store and figure this out.
Good write up to the original poster. Thanks.

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post #10 of 45 Old 09-08-2010, 02:59 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

another route to go for 2.8 carb'd with this (less work + polish supercharger
no new pulleys or delete, new size belts to add, just a cap off of hose and simple reroute.
In this case a sawed off broom handle and clamp made for an easy cap off and AIR delete.

*those AIR units are rare to find and kinda pricey anyways if they're shot.


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post #11 of 45 Old 09-17-2010, 04:42 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by evans85dime View Post
I did this and now it runs too rich what could it be

Has anyone else had this problem? I have a 1988 2.8L I want to do this on to free up a few HP. Is there a solution to it or any other problems that may come along with it?

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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

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Has anyone else had this problem? I have a 1988 2.8L I want to do this on to free up a few HP. Is there a solution to it or any other problems that may come along with it?

i know its an old thread but my carbed 2.8l runs fine without the air pump

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post #13 of 45 Old 10-08-2010, 08:41 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

everybody else his opinions and perhaps even start a very strong discussion.
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post #14 of 45 Old 10-08-2010, 06:48 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

My 87 has been running fine for almost a year now with no AIR pump. I'm the one that first post about this and why I laughed when somebody said it was a repost.


That AIR pump "supercharger" is a freaking joke. The AIR pump does NOT put out enough psi to pressurize anything.

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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

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My 87 has been running fine for almost a year now with no AIR pump. I'm the one that first post about this and why I laughed when somebody said it was a repost.


That AIR pump "supercharger" is a freaking joke. The AIR pump does NOT put out enough psi to pressurize anything.
No kidding I had my pump still in my truck but unhooked from the emissions stuff and with the motor running it was like a light a breeze coming out of it.

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post #16 of 45 Old 10-10-2010, 11:04 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

well guys here is my fix to the smog pump never had to do anything to the tensioner except put a pulley off a 96 i think lincon towncar with the 4.6l duel overhead cam v8 it was next to the belt tensioner fit righton those links will have pics including a pic of the belt size i use u might need abit bigger or smaller but its somewhere to start.

http://s833.photobucket.com/albums/z...05B015D.jpg%26


http://s833.photobucket.com/albums/z...15B005D.jpg%26


http://s833.photobucket.com/albums/z...05B005D.jpg%26

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post #17 of 45 Old 10-11-2010, 08:01 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

will simply unplugging the solenoid work too?

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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

what solonoid

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post #19 of 45 Old 10-12-2010, 01:19 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

You can unplug the AIR but whats the point if you leave it on there still turning. The AIR pump doesn't take any HP to turn the whole point of this mod is to simply clean up the engine bay. If you are gonna leave it bolted to the block you might as well leave it hooked up and running.

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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

ive heard when they start to seaz up they give you problems and with me and richard both having 4x4's its worth it pull out i toulk all the lines right out and chucked them way easyer to work on now

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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo71665 View Post
My 87 has been running fine for almost a year now with no AIR pump. I'm the one that first post about this and why I laughed when somebody said it was a repost.


That AIR pump "supercharger" is a freaking joke. The AIR pump does NOT put out enough psi to pressurize anything.
"POLISH supercharger" - please read.

And it doesn't hurt any having it up and routed in this manner.
See no need to go through deletion, shorter belt, and work.

The air pump unit can and does go bad, when they do it can heat up your cat and expire it early. Finding a new is costly. That is why some decide to "delete it".
Instead I just bypassed. Not spending $ on an old orig 2.8, so re-routed.

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Last edited by joed; 10-12-2010 at 07:33 PM.
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post #22 of 45 Old 10-12-2010, 07:48 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Has anyone done this an gotten an emissions test afterwards? Did you pass? I want to do this but I stll require an emissions test every 2 years.
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by joed View Post
"POLISH supercharger" - please read.

And it doesn't hurt any having it up and routed in this manner.
See no need to go through deletion, shorter belt, and work.

The air pump unit can and does go bad, when they do it can heat up your cat and expire it early. Finding a new is costly. That is why some decide to "delete it".
Instead I just bypassed. Not spending $ on an old orig 2.8, so re-routed.
Well the main reason was the steel lines off the manifolds where cut and kinked when I got the truck I see u have a 85 to well I'm running an 87 motor the system wasn't all there on the rebuilt motor I got plus I didn't want it and 85-87 stuff won't hook up without work it's way easyer to work on and I needed a shorter belt when I toulk off the a/c compressor

1985 gmc s15 4x4 high sierra 5 speed 2.8l reg cab short box 3 inch body lift SOLD
1991 gmc jimmy 2 door 4.3l auto 4x4 lifted 2 inches on air SOLD

highly modded 97 dodge diesel 4wd 5 speed fully loaded making 450hp and 28mpg.

93 sle 4wd 4 door jimmy
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post #24 of 45 Old 10-15-2010, 03:32 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

I have an '87 2.8 with AIR and A/C -- The plan is to remove both; if I order the '91 Isuzu Rodeo no A/C tensioner and belt, will I be all set? Seeing that I am going to pull the AIR thing and the A/C compressor both I don't want to end up with the wrong parts for that...
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post #25 of 45 Old 10-17-2010, 02:11 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

I redrilled my factory tensioner. Only cost I had in mine was a new shorter belt.

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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

i didnt even drill mine i just ran a smaller pulley off a lincon towncar

1985 gmc s15 4x4 high sierra 5 speed 2.8l reg cab short box 3 inch body lift SOLD
1991 gmc jimmy 2 door 4.3l auto 4x4 lifted 2 inches on air SOLD

highly modded 97 dodge diesel 4wd 5 speed fully loaded making 450hp and 28mpg.

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post #27 of 45 Old 10-13-2012, 10:55 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

could a chevy camaro 305 v8 smog delete pulley and bracket work on a 2.8 v6?
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post #28 of 45 Old 10-14-2012, 01:08 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

I did this and just put a shorter belt with no other mods. Worked fine, has been for years.
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post #29 of 45 Old 10-23-2012, 10:01 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Awesome write up, pics are always a plus!
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post #30 of 45 Old 11-24-2013, 02:23 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

I just finished removing pump, re-positioning tensioner.... Went easily enough but the belt from a 91 3.1L Rodeo is too short. I deleted the AC and ordered the corresponding belt. Everything looks as it should from the pictures, Tensioner is in the right position and all of the pulleys seem to be the same size and location as the pictures. Has anyone else run into this problem?Confused
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post #31 of 45 Old 11-24-2013, 06:04 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

It's funny as soon as I read this post and goto start my truck after work my disconnected air pump ball bearings start howling. Guess il throw a bunch of oil in it when I get home.

1985 2.8L V6 S10 completely restored with 65,000 miles on body, frame, and rear axle. Weber 38 DGES Powered

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1995 Chevy S10 ext cab 4.3 Z COMPLETE 2000+ miles and counting.
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post #32 of 45 Old 03-30-2014, 10:11 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

So i searched the gm part number for the rodeo tensiner and found this website cross refrencing the tensiner with the other engines. Dose this mean that i can go to any of the other vehicals and get the same tensiner or do i need the rodeo 3.1 tensiner only. I searched my junk yard and cant find any rodeos with that engine but the other cars listed in this link are everywhere.
http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/isuzu/8100999840.html
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post #33 of 45 Old 03-30-2014, 10:13 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

The link dosnt open the list of vehicals but clicking on chevy under the application and discription will open the list
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post #34 of 45 Old 03-30-2014, 09:02 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

i will be performing this upgrade while i have the 2.8 out ,before installing 3.4,have parts from camaro like idler pully to use
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post #35 of 45 Old 04-09-2014, 05:19 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

This how to seems to route the belt on the wrong side of the water pump. To correctly route my isuzu belt makes it too short. Is this a solid how to???????
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post #36 of 45 Old 04-09-2014, 05:47 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/..._rotation.html
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post #37 of 45 Old 04-12-2014, 05:49 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

i did this to my 88 jimmy with a 85 engine running a v-belt setup. it passed smog test.
i also deleted my a/c and my fan.
i run a 14" electric fan.
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post #38 of 45 Old 05-06-2014, 12:01 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Have a '87 S10 Blazer whom needs a clearer engine compartment.

To confirm the shopping list for this....

1 - Tensioner / Pulley from '91 3.1L Isuzu Rodeo
1 - Oil Plug @ 7/8-18
1 - Serpentine Belt - Shorter - Does anyone have a recommended length?

Thanks!

Brett
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post #39 of 45 Old 05-20-2014, 03:51 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

On my 91' S10, I ended up going with a Gates 5060835 (83.5 inches long) belt for my 2.8 with air conditioning and the smaller ribbed pulley mentioned above. The stock Rodeo belt with AC was about two inches too short with the routing shown in the picture. I will probably try a belt about an inch longer the next time as it has my tensioner pretty close to the water pump pulley. If you have a stock pulley, you will probably need the 84.5 inch long belt instead. Otherwise, the writeup above is great.
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post #40 of 45 Old 09-05-2014, 09:09 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Started working on tearing all this mess out of mine today. Needed to get to the valve covers to change the gaskets and it was an eyes sore. I have an 83 with 3 of the ports in the passenger side exhaust manifold. All 3 of the lines snapped off at the bolt on the manifold so my question is since I only see one hole mentioned in this thread is the thread on the 3 hole manifold the same as the single hole 7/8-18?
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post #41 of 45 Old 09-03-2015, 10:36 PM
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The bolts for the old 82-84 v belt are 1\2 by 20 fine thread. Also, the belt length i went with was 50". The original length is 53". Just go to autozone and ask for a 50"
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post #42 of 45 Old 02-26-2016, 02:07 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

GM tensioner 10099984: I search this part online and it says it is not a compatible part for my 88 S10 Blazer 2.8 TBI 4x4. Can somebody verify that it will work before i spend 65 dollars for a tensioner pulley that wont fit my truck.. And if it does not fit on my truck does anyone know of another pulley that will work? And is that the only pulley i need to buy my new serpentine belt or did i miss something??
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post #43 of 45 Old 02-26-2016, 02:55 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo71665 View Post
I redrilled my factory tensioner. Only cost I had in mine was a new shorter belt.
How did you do this?? The write up is really confusing to me and i would like to do this it seems easier and cheaper..
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post #44 of 45 Old 03-27-2016, 11:54 PM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

this is nice and well written but seems to be more work than necesary. Use your existing pulley, run a string in the same pattern the belt should be, and measure the length of the string. Then remove and inch or so from that length and get that long of a belt. Im using an 80 inch outside circumferanc ( O.C ) belt and is working fine with original pulley. Now i probably do need one thats about a quarter inch shorter but thats easy to get. Just buying a belt is easier and cheaper than buying a belt and tensioner.
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post #45 of 45 Old 04-18-2016, 05:15 AM
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Re: How to: Remove/Delete Smog Pump

I removed My smog pump a while ago off of My 86 2.8L TBI. I recently installed a factory tach and I'm tac'ing up over 1000 rpm at idle. Occasionally My check engine light comes on. I am wondering if it is due to the missing smog pump. I noticed that I am running a bit rich since then. Any idea's on how to fix this so My idle is down to where it should be since I have no adjustment screw and it's all computer controled.
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