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Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

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Old 08-31-2007, 12:19 PM   #1
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Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

Ok. I am a major lurker to this site and I am seriously stuck. I have read every thread that has "starter" in it to no avail.

I just installed a Duralast lifetime war. premium remanufactured starter in my 2.2. The flywheel looks pretty good the whole way around. The old starter was not shimmed. I installed the new one w/o shims.
"BANG!!/GRIND!!/SMASH" (imagine a metallic cat being sucked through a nuclear-powered pepper grinder).
The truck starts, but only after this satanic cacophony. I have tried shimming the inboard and outboard sides independently and jointly. I went as far as 1/16". Nothing helped!
It is currently sitting w/o shims. It starts with some difficulty and after the aforementioned sound. Working on it is a PITA because 1)its almost impossible to get to 2)I'm not allowed to work on it at the apt. complex. So I have to drive it somewhere and let it sit for long enough to cool down.

Is this just a bad starter? I didn't use the gauge method to check the fit because I have no idea how you are supposed to:
a) install the damn thing
b) pull out the solenoid with your free hand
c) insert the paperclip with your other, other free hand
d) use your fiber optic endoscope to then see from INSIDE the tranny at the gauge (holding the scope with your 4th hand)
e) then remove your 10lbs of shit from the 1lb space Chevy provided.

PLEASE HELP!
I do not want to have to pull this starter 9 more times.

...on good news, the new alternator is in, my optima yellow top is working great and the big-three upgrade now has my stereo at 40 (when is used to distort at 30).
Old 08-31-2007, 12:36 PM   #2
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

sounds to me like its not shimmed right still
Old 08-31-2007, 02:18 PM   #3
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

no.. it sounds like lucifer is pissed off and taking it out in my flywheel with a 12" jackhammer-powered grinding wheel.

Is there any way I would have to shim it MORE than a 16th?
Old 08-31-2007, 02:43 PM   #4
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

buy a shim kit form autozone and keep tryin
Old 08-31-2007, 03:40 PM   #5
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

yeah. I have a shim kit. I dont think that I should need 6 shims though. I think an 8th of an inch is too much!

If the sound is during cranking, and there is no whine after, do I want the starter gear to be closer to the flywheel ring gear? It is my understanding I do. It really only needs to be shimmed out if there is a gear whine after starting (i.e the flywheel wont let go of the starter fast enough and it spins the starter up to warp speed) (?).

Some more detailed help is needed. Your advice is akin to saying, "fix it."
Old 08-31-2007, 04:04 PM   #6
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

then take the starte to autozone and have it tested
Old 09-01-2007, 10:31 AM   #7
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

can anyone confirm the relationship between starter noise and shimming? this is my first chevy, so I am really unfamiliar with the whole concept... maybe they could just have SOME level of quality control for manufacturing. I really need this fixed ASAP.
Old 09-01-2007, 06:23 PM   #8
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

Quote: Originally Posted by viperstd
can anyone confirm the relationship between starter noise and shimming?
Noise = starter is incorrect distance from the flexplate and is grinding against it when the gears should mesh smoothly. One thing you can do is put some white lithium grease on the teeth of the starter, and it helps a little bit. Also, you may only have to shim one side of the starter.
Old 09-02-2007, 10:27 PM   #9
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

well, I spent 4 hrs shimming it today and could not get it into position. The best I could get was to take an entire shim kit and put it on the far bolt. With 9/64th shimmed it didnt bang, put was very loud. I finally ended up pulling out the new Duralast Premium (POS!) and putting back in the old failing starter (also a duralast reman unit). Works like a charm... except when the hammer needs to come out.
When it completely dies I will buy a new unit from NAPA or OEM I guess.
Old 09-02-2007, 10:56 PM   #10
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

just take the old one to get tested, should have some kind of warranty, if its bad they'll replace it
Old 09-03-2007, 02:23 AM   #11
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

Quote: Originally Posted by Chris0nllyn
just take the old one to get tested, should have some kind of warranty, if its bad they'll replace it
+1
Old 09-03-2007, 04:09 AM   #12
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

I didnt have to shim my starter at all.. It could be a bad starter, Ive gotten a few bad parts from duralass in the past so I wouldnt be that surprised..

The Haynes manual pretty much walked me through the whole process. I suggest checking it out if you havnt already.
Old 09-03-2007, 08:46 AM   #13
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

The nose cone on the new starter is wrong and its contacting the flywheel or its pushing the inspection cover into flywheel and the bolts on the flywheel are hitting the cover making that noise. If you look at all the items I mentioned you'll see what Im talking about. I know this because Ive dealt with the same problem and it just happened to be the Duralast brand as well.

BTW 1/16" isnt a lot, but over 1/8" is too much. It usually doesnt take much tho.

Attached is a pic of the stepped area of the stater where it will hit, to fix it I simply notched the inspection plate.
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Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp-starter.jpg  
Old 09-03-2007, 11:16 AM   #14
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Re: Starter Problems (major bang/grind): 99 5sp

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk
The nose cone on the new starter is wrong and its contacting the flywheel or its pushing the inspection cover into flywheel and the bolts on the flywheel are hitting the cover making that noise. If you look at all the items I mentioned you'll see what Im talking about. I know this because Ive dealt with the same problem and it just happened to be the Duralast brand as well.

BTW 1/16" isnt a lot, but over 1/8" is too much. It usually doesnt take much tho.

Attached is a pic of the stepped area of the stater where it will hit, to fix it I simply notched the inspection plate.
Thank you everyone for the help! I'm taking a trip to autozone today and trying to get my money back on the duralast part. I will keep running the old starter until my framing hammer stops working (i USE THE HANDLE). I am going to take the money I hopefully get back on the starter and put it into making a custom box for my jumpseat... not the best use of my tight funds, but its something I've wanted to do since I bought the truck.

The truck is running pretty well right now otherwise. The new alternator and battery are good... I love my optima! and the big 3 I ran with 4 gauge wire REALLY made a huge difference to my stereo quality. I was shocked. I am running a dual terminal optima so I hooked the top posts up the alternator + and the negative to the alternator case. I ran a ground from the firewall (where the ground strap is) to the transmission.

Next, I plan on rewiring the headlights with 6 or 8 gauge (if I have some in my box because 4g is too $$) to get a bit more from my lights. I have new reflectors and high output osram bulbs that HELPED a lot). When I made that switch it was light my new low-beams were brighter than the old highs. ...still not HID performance though. If I do upgrade, when the time comes for new bulbs Ill go 130W Phillips ralleyes.

Thanks again!
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