My weekend project: Homemade CAI

[miniblazinbmx]

Looking to squeeze more power and mileage out of my daily driver, did my research and decided the best thing to do was to build my own TRUE cold air intake. Using 3" PVC pipe, PVC cement, 3" rubber coupler, a cone filter, and a couple of screws and 1 can of flat black I made my own this past weekend. It took me all of 6 hours total time to make and got me out of the house for a while. Overall results?

Hp gain was minimal, possibly even none since I'm suffering from a busted cat.

Gas mileage is a little too early to tell since I just finished today and filled up yesterday, but I expect 2-3 mpg at most(probably not even than until I get a new highflow cat.

Overall change in performance? MUCH louder and deeper during acceleration periods. Engine temp running about 15-18 degrees cooler than before, even at highway speeds. Slight to none in power increase, but the engine is DEFINITELY breathing better than it was before. I expect a steady increase in the next week but that's about it. I recommend doing this, just to make the air flow easier throughout the engine. Here's some pics...

[95chevy]

looks good, i was thinking about doing the same thing. i really don't want to dish out the cash for a new k&n one.

[chevyDime98]

wow i like that, welcome to the True cold air club lol. my filter sits atop of the sway bar tho.

[s10jimmi]

i got into this thread to flame you for not just spending your money on chromeintakes but damn dude, me likey. Looks sweet!

[xbrightsidex]

i see myself doing this in the near future. my engine compartment gets pretty damn hot.

[Forever Lowerd]

so what did hat run you about to do ?

[Dr. Nate]

Watch out for high water.

[syclonekid43]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dr. Nate

Watch out for high water.

i was gonna say the same thing. watch out if you ever drive that in the rain. i take mine off when i get stuck in the rain.

[ExtremeMASS]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dr. Nate

Watch out for high water.

ya i agree also with the water my civic is set up the same way underneath with the filter and i had to get a bypass valve from AEM, everytime it rained and i had to drive to work on the highway it would bog and sputter

i never looked to see if they make them for my truck i got the regular K$N setup (note the dollar sign.....waste of money) like the intake though came out nice and clean

[miniblazinbmx]

Well thanks for the comments guys. I was actually expecting the worst, but you guys prove once again to be very supportive of the mintruckin community. It only ran me about $25 total. I will add that it does make a huge difference in sound and the way the truck breathes. I saw other homemade systems, that just dumped off in the engine bay just like the stock one. Heat shield or not, the air temp inside the engine bay is still much hotter than outside. This is a true cold air system and in the last 2 days I've noticed in significant drop in intake air temp. Actually, about 18-19-degrees to be more specific. I did do my research before this, and for any of you wondering...Yes. I am aware of the side effects of PVC piping. For those of you who aren't, PVC stands for Poly-Vinyl-Chloride, which means when heated to a melting temp it gives off toxic fumes. Fortunately, I talked to people who burn this stuff for a living, and they both told me the melting temp of PVC is well over 350 degrees. Most enignes run normally around 170 degrees, give or take. I have never seen an engine get over 250 degrees, most automobiles from the early 80's on will not run at temps that high. An engine would shut itself down before it ever got close to 300. Another option would be to use Chlorinated PVC pipe, also known as C-PVC. This is made from non-toxic materials, and has a much higher melting temperature, but it is also more expensive.

[miniblazinbmx]

And yes high water is a caution now, and I plan on investing in a 1 way water valve for it.

[lafever25]

theres actually a silicone couple called a bypass valve that is used especially for that.

[miniblazinbmx]

That's what I need, and I will get it. So anyone doing this modification, add that to your list of parts.

[xbrightsidex]

where would that bypass valve go? in the engine compartment, away from any possible water?

and wouldn't that just suck air from wherever you mount it, regardless if the main filter is clogged or not?

[miniblazinbmx]

I believe it traps water, or blocks water from entry. Take into consideration that water is much heavier than air. A few drops or light mist will not make a difference, however, rain and big puddles could turn into trouble fast. The valve would go between the main filter and the throttle body, mounted in vertical most fashion.

[lafever25]

Quote: Originally Posted by miniblazinbmx

The valve would go between the main filter and the throttle body, mounted in vertical most fashion.

Exactly, id mount it about a feet upwards of the filter.

[stockchevy1983]

looks good if u could can u give me all the pieces u used so i can do the same thing?

[miniblazinbmx]

3" rubber coupler(autozone, o'reilly's, parts store)
At least 6-7 ft. 3" PVC pipe(Ace hardware, home depot, lowe's)
2 3" 90degree bends(female both sides)
1 3" 90degree bend(male one side, female other)
intake filter-cone filter of choice
PVC pipe sealant
2-3 self-tapping screws
3 3" 1/16" bend(female both sides)
1" wide sealed rubber grommet

This could be done several ways, but anyway you do so, you need to make sure you have a hole for the PCV valve, and another for the IAT sensor. This involves a lot of fitment and measuring. Make sure all your pipes fit exactly(should be snug when fitting together). I started by taking the 1 90 M/F bend and using the male end to put the 3" coupler on, tightened it down on the male end. From there I just mocked up where I wanted to route it, taking measurments of how long I wanted the pipe to be. With the 90 bend secured to the throttle body, just start making out where it needs to go. Keep in mind it doesn't have to look like this one. Get creative, that's what being homemade custom is. I had to cut a small section of core support to feed the tube through-which didn't hinder the stucture enough to worry about, some of you may not want to do this, so you may have to find another route. After all your pipes are mocked, cut, routed, and fitted, decide where you need break-away points(section to unbolt apart so you can pull it out). I found 3, and for these I made sure my pipes were damn snug, then just ran a self tapping screw through where the pipes meet. It helps to draw guidelines when you are done routing, so this way you can line everything up if you take it off again. On the joints that are NOT to be taken apart, seal those up really well with sealant. Drill your holes for you sensors(through your grommet) and make sure the IAT sensor fits snug. Tie back wherever you can, make sure everything is routed away from fans, pulleys, or anything that may get in the way-oh yeah, and make sure the hood clears. This is probably more detailed than I needed to be, but you guys get the point. The whole point of this is to feed the motor with cooler air than inside the engine bay. My air temp dropped almost 20 degrees, and it seems to help with gas just a little. Results may be better for you guys, my catylitic converter is busted right now so it's hard to tell. Anyway, good luck with the installs guys. Glad I could help.

[chevyDime98]

i dont think ull come close to sucking up water but if u got the time, a bypass valve wouldnt hurt

[GSingletary]

What all has to be removed to route the filter to the bottom of the truck. I started looking around the engine bay today to find a way to route the filter down there. With just the stock airbox removed I cant get the filter any lower than the bottom of the radiator and no where near some cool, oncoming air. I just need to know what to do to get the filter down there behind the valence like the one in the link





How he got through there is what I'm having problems with