HOW TO: Install Performace Pulleys

[comics22]

This is a "how to" describing how to install performance pulleys on a 2.2L. The truck i did this on is a 1995 2wd s-10 that has already done the efan mod and intake.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:
3/8" drive rachet
3/8" drive breaker bar
15mm socket
18mm socket
T-50 torx socket
15/16" wrench
15/16" socket (1/2" drive)
1/2" drive breaker bar
large channel locks
PB blaster or Liquid Wrench(penetrating oil)
any cheater pipe you may need

TIME TAKEN:
about 1-2 hours

PROCEDURE:

First get all your tools ready

second get your engine compartment looking somehting like this. just so you have ample space to get to all bolts safely and easily

I started with the crank pulley first so to keep the pulley from turning when your trying to loosen the bolts jam a rag between the belt and a pulley somewhat as shown

then take your 3/8 breaker bar and the 15mm socket and loosen do not remove them all the way yet the 3 bolts that surround the main middle bolt. then use the 18mm socket and loosen the middle bolt, again only loosen it do not remove it.

now its time to remove the belt. take your 3/8 drive breaker bar and insert it into the square hole on the tentioner as shown

pull towards the left (towards the passenger side wheel) and pull the belt off froma round the idler pulley where the fan would be. keep holding the tentioner back and get the belt out from around the crank pulley.

then take the crank bolts all the way out and the pulley should just pull off with little or no force. compare it to the new pulley which should be smaller

make sure all the holes line up.

now instalation is same as removal. put the bolts back in and snug up the 3 outside bolts first before the main center one.

the crank pulley is now installed!

next we will do the alternater pulley

take the old belt and wrap it around the alternater pulley as shown. take the channel locks and position them around the pulleyand belt as shown. then take the 1/2 drive breaker bar with the 15/16" socket on it and put it over the nut. hold the channel locks tightly and pull the breaker bar towards you. its on there pretty tight. it may help to apply some penetrating oil and wating 10 minutes or so.


what happened with me is since the pulley shaft is slightly tapered, the pulley started spinning on the shaft once i felt a slight pop noise. once this happens or if the shaft starts spinning while your trying to remove the nut, take off the channel locks and belt, and use the T50 torx socket along with your 3/8" drive ratchet and insert it in the end of the alternater shaft. use the 15/16" wrench to remove the nut.

the pulley should just slide right off after the nut is removed.

now instalation is same as removal.

(i did not have my alternater pulley at the time of me writing this)

its time to put your belt on. refer to the previous pictures for the belt routing for non ac trucks. make sure the belt lines up with the grooves in all the pullies before releasing the tentioner otherwise the belt my slip off and cause damage to the belt, your truck, or to you.

once the belt is on jab a rag between a pulley and the belt so you can fully tighten the crank bolts. DO NOT forget this step!!!

here is the info from the 2.2L performace parts information sticky regarding belt sizes.

Pulleys:
ASP Power Crank Pulley www.aspracing.com www.truckperformance.com
(dealership)
Ac Delco
Without A/C #6K637
With A/C #6K744

(napa parts)
Gates
Without A/C #K060637
WithA/C #K060744
IF YOU HAVE ALTERNATOR PULLEY, USE SAME NUMBER BUT REQUEST 1" SHORTER FOR PROPER LENGTH

STS Performance www.stsperformance.com
With A/C AND Alternator Pulley Goodyear Gatorback Poly-V belt #'s are 4060715 6PK1815.
With A/C NO Alternator Pulley, get same number but ask for 1" shorter for proper length

i will try to update this once i get my alternater pulley and belt

Im not responisble for your screw ups! this is merily a guide that worked for me that i thought i would share my way of doing it.

if you have any questions refer to the 2.2L performance parts sticky or if your still lost please feel free to PM me

thanks to all who helped me!

[TubbD]

Nice write up!

Did you notice anything with the crank pulley?

[comics22]

haha heres the thing: i only got one pulley today, the crank pulley and since i didnt want to go out and get a belt to test it and see if it accualy did anything im just gonna wait till i get the alternater pulley so i only have to get one belt.
but felling the weights the new one is quite lgihter as its all aluminum and about 2" smaller than the stock steel one. so i wouldnt doubt id notice a bit more tourqe=bit more get up and go/easier to do so= better mpg too along with better performance

but we shall see. i ordered the 2 pullies from that truckperformace site since they had the cheapest (2 pullies + buying a local belt is less than $100) but theyve pissed me off. i ordered both pullies on may 28th and then a day after i order them i check the status on thier site as says both have been backordered. so im like wtf! it said nohtign about them being outa stock when i ordered them! so i guess ill just wait it shouldnt be more thna a few weeks at most. well june goes by and then they say "this item has shipped from the manufacturer on or before 6/22/07" and then they just shipped it the 5th of july to me and i just now got one of em. the other still says the item has shipped from the maufacturer! that was 3 weeks ago! where the hell are they getting thier parts from that takes 2 damn weeks to ship!!! its just a small alternater pulley so its not like a huge toneau conver or somehting...

i dunno im just kinda pissed cuz its been almost a month and a half and only got half my order. it does fit and look nice tho. the quality is excelent(i think its an ASP pulley)

haha sorry for my rant but id be weary of that truckperformace website thats listed in the 2.2l performace sticky...

[What?]

Good job on write up!

Ill add something.

Using Air Impact does the faster job to remove Alternator/Crank pulley just like that, so if you have access, USE IT!

I will update info about www.truckperformance.com, once their part is backorder on website, you will not receive part or part will not be ready for at least 1 month, always has and always will

Comics22, your pulley are ASP Pulley, I have same, also faster rev along with little better mileage/power out of it

[comics22]

lol still pisses me off tho... if i woulda known it was on back order i woulda have just spent the extra $20 and gotten the whole kit from somewhere else...

yea i woulda have used a impact gun if we had one. it does make the job easier but this way will work (obviously)

[S-10Driver]

man every time i get the cash up to order a set something else comes up and takes it away...

STS still has their set (w/ belt) for $99 + shipping on ebay btw.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-03...spagenameZWDVW

[3800_Convert]

Keep an eye in the junk yards... different applications have different pulleys on the alternators. I am using an alternator pulley from a 2.4L Sunfire Convertible with my crank pulley, and I have no charging issues... and they lot attendant just grouped it with a bunch of small parts he charged me $5 for.

[ChopperCharles]

So, uh what exactly are the advantages and disadvantages of different sized pullies?

Charles

[comics22]

well smaller and lighter crank pulley allows some torque freed up. the bigger roating mass(stock pulley) robs the engine of some torque just to spin the pulley. (similar to when you have large heavy rims you accelerate alot slower than lets say you have stock or smaller rims.

so lighter roatting masses wont rob as much torque from the engien allowign a bit more to go to the wheels.

the reason behind the smaller alternator pulley is so you keep it spinning the same speed with the new smaller crank pulley. you have to try to keep the ratio between the pulleys sthe same(just a example: if you have a crank pulley one inch smaller than stock, you must also decrease the alternator pulley the same ammount so it spin the same rpm)

now some people are saying they dont have a problem with the stock pulley, if not then good for them, but with increased electrical loads(ie: trailier lights, quad beam headlight mod etc) theres gonan need an added current draw but the alternator might not be spinnign fast enough. at idle the rpm might be too low and if you stuck in traffic you could thoretically drain your battery if you wait long enough

[Chris0nllyn]

great write up dude

[ChopperCharles]

BUT, what actual performance difference does it make? Can you feel the difference? Does the dyno show any changes?

Charles.

[Chris0nllyn]

7hp proven

[ChopperCharles]

Proven by who? By what? When? Where. Without proof, there is no "proven".

Charles.

[Christoff]

Quote: Originally Posted by ChopperCharles

Proven by who? By what? When? Where. Without proof, there is no "proven".

Charles.

I'm not a hundred percent sure here but why don't you try searching and I believe that someone on here did some of their own dyno testing on this. On top of that simple mechanics tells you that anything that lightens your rotating mass and reduces drag on the motor is going to give you more power and possible even a little more fuel economy.

With that being said the only real performance mod I have on my truck is the under drive pulleys right now and it did make a difference on it. Its nothing huge but enough you know something changed. The biggest thing that is evident is that when I put the defrost or A/C on it doesn't drag the motor down nearly as much. I can still tell when the compressor is on or off by the difference in power but the change from on to off is significantly less.

[ProTouring2.2]

The motor down revs easier, and there is a noticeable power increase.

[Chris0nllyn]

i cant find the link but a guy took his truck on the dyno and it made 7hp with pullies and an e-fan i think...another person saw around 9hp from the K&N intake

[ProTouring2.2]

Any idea off hand how much people see from a header?

[Chris0nllyn]

i dont think anyone has dyno tested one

[S-10Driver]

i remember Al and gutless claimed like 12hp and 24ft lb i believe...something like that for the Al's header. idk about that though.

[Criticalbeatdown95s]

The only bolt on mod that I haven't done yet to my 4.3

[97 chevy s-10]

with this pulley set up what size belt would i need and could i just order it through pep boys? and on summit there is a jet pully set up that said it would give 10-30 extra horse... do u think that is true because everyone else is claiming to get 7hp?

[comics22]

LOL no u aint gonan get 30 outa it...

hmm i could get the belt size i used tommorow. i bought mine from advance auto. a poly cog brand belt. i think it works the best because it has relif cuts/marks/ groves perpendicular to the belt. wont cause the belt to crack goign aroudn the smaller crank pulley.(that belt you see in those pics is a polycog belt, it has almost 40K on it and looks new.

[What?]

Quote: Originally Posted by S-10Driver

i remember Al and gutless claimed like 12hp and 24ft lb i believe...something like that for the Al's header. idk about that though.

and there was article of this in Minitruckin as well long time ago

[What?]

ioashd

[comics22]

ok got the belt size i bought it at advance auto brand is dayco polycog #5060615

[97 chevy s-10]

thanx do you have a suggestion or the best working pulleys?

[comics22]

my crank pulley is an ASP (i think) pulley. the alternator one is just some universal one.

[97 chevy s-10]

are there different size pulleys for the motor one or is there only one smaller size?

[KENNYMO]

so is this how you do it on the 4.3 also? you replace the alt and crank pulley? and do i want a kit that makes my alternator stay the same or slow down?

[comics22]

Quote: Originally Posted by KENNYMO

so is this how you do it on the 4.3 also? you replace the alt and crank pulley? and do i want a kit that makes my alternator stay the same or slow down?

yea pretty much. might be different bolt sizes and such.

you want a smaller alternator pulley

[AspecialZ]

Quote: Originally Posted by Chris0nllyn

i cant find the link but a guy took his truck on the dyno and it made 7hp with pullies and an e-fan i think...another person saw around 9hp from the K&N intake

that would be me, welcome to the e-fan club!

[AspecialZ]

Quote: Originally Posted by Chris0nllyn

i dont think anyone has dyno tested one

I did, 6hp and 12ft lbs torque at max pull between 4500-5000

[ProTouring2.2]

Quote: Originally Posted by AspecialZ

I did, 6hp and 12ft lbs torque at max pull between 4500-5000

What were the overall horsepower/torque numbers?

[Chris0nllyn]

Quote: Originally Posted by AspecialZ

I did, 6hp and 12ft lbs torque at max pull between 4500-5000

with a header? cause thats what i was talking about

[zippplok]

what does the different pulleys do?

[Chris0nllyn]

Quote: Originally Posted by zippplok

what does the different pulleys do?

did you read this whole thread?
or try the seacrh button

[zippplok]

what do they do?

[Chris0nllyn]

read thru this thread dude

[Chris0nllyn]

Quote: Originally Posted by comics22

well smaller and lighter crank pulley allows some torque freed up. the bigger roating mass(stock pulley) robs the engine of some torque just to spin the pulley. (similar to when you have large heavy rims you accelerate alot slower than lets say you have stock or smaller rims.

so lighter roatting masses wont rob as much torque from the engien allowign a bit more to go to the wheels.

the reason behind the smaller alternator pulley is so you keep it spinning the same speed with the new smaller crank pulley. you have to try to keep the ratio between the pulleys sthe same(just a example: if you have a crank pulley one inch smaller than stock, you must also decrease the alternator pulley the same ammount so it spin the same rpm)

now some people are saying they dont have a problem with the stock pulley, if not then good for them, but with increased electrical loads(ie: trailier lights, quad beam headlight mod etc) theres gonan need an added current draw but the alternator might not be spinnign fast enough. at idle the rpm might be too low and if you stuck in traffic you could thoretically drain your battery if you wait long enough

here ya go

[What?]

wow, must be hard to read english i bet

[zippplok]

you could just tell me but be a dick
does it only free up torque there is no horse power gain

[comics22]

Quote: Originally Posted by zippplok

you could just tell me but be a dick
does it only free up torque there is no horse power gain

LOl common miscoseption, HP is a "byproduct" of Torque. more torque =more HP

hp is just a unit, like cm, m, in, ft, mi, km.

[zippplok]

oh alright so doing this does bumps up torque so it bumps the horse power up as well

[xbrightsidex]

anyone know exactly how much these pullies drop the idle rpm to? also how much it drops the idle voltage?

it seems like this could be a good mod... even though i'm running a beastly stereo, hids, and a compressor (which is only on while actually driving 95% the time)... i did upgrade to a 180 amp alt. and if i can keep at least 50-60 amps at idle, then all should be good.

[What?]

Quote: Originally Posted by zippplok

you could just tell me but be a dick
does it only free up torque there is no horse power gain

not my fault you MAGICALLY skip post #9 that answer your question

Quote: Originally Posted by comics22

well smaller and lighter crank pulley allows some torque freed up. the bigger roating mass(stock pulley) robs the engine of some torque just to spin the pulley. (similar to when you have large heavy rims you accelerate alot slower than lets say you have stock or smaller rims.

so lighter roatting masses wont rob as much torque from the engien allowign a bit more to go to the wheels.

the reason behind the smaller alternator pulley is so you keep it spinning the same speed with the new smaller crank pulley. you have to try to keep the ratio between the pulleys sthe same(just a example: if you have a crank pulley one inch smaller than stock, you must also decrease the alternator pulley the same ammount so it spin the same rpm)

now some people are saying they dont have a problem with the stock pulley, if not then good for them, but with increased electrical loads(ie: trailier lights, quad beam headlight mod etc) theres gonan need an added current draw but the alternator might not be spinnign fast enough. at idle the rpm might be too low and if you stuck in traffic you could thoretically drain your battery if you wait long enough

HP is top end power
TQ is low end power

xbrightsidex

it drops 50rpm its not a big deal but does drop 1 voltage(stock alternator/battery) with 180amp alternator, you should know a data that states how much power it puts out at stock. Stock alternator is 100amp, i believe at idle it puts out 60-70amp, i had specification but i do not have it anymore, while u do the pulley, u can do the BIG 3 wiring while you at it, with what you have its noticeable difference for you

for more than 5hp/tq, under $100, that is a pretty good mod to spend on which also gains mpg for most, few do not notice mpg increase, theres alot variable to this reason, but overall the more performance mod you add, the better outcome of the performance

[xbrightsidex]

thank you.

i do have a rather powerful system, which i used to compete with some, but now it's just for fun. i also run an air zenith compressor, which can pull about 70 amps average. i've already upgraded the alt and all my wiring, so no worries there. i've also used a clamp meter to see just how much the system can pull, and i peaked at a little over 210 amps. under normal listening though, it's a much more mild 60-70 amps for the full system.

so, the underdrive pulley will spin the alt even faster huh? sounds like i'll be doing this mod soon.

[comics22]

Quote: Originally Posted by xbrightsidex

thank you.

i do have a rather powerful system, which i used to compete with some, but now it's just for fun. i also run an air zenith compressor, which can pull about 70 amps average. i've already upgraded the alt and all my wiring, so no worries there. i've also used a clamp meter to see just how much the system can pull, and i peaked at a little over 210 amps. under normal listening though, it's a much more mild 60-70 amps for the full system.

so, the underdrive pulley will spin the alt even faster huh? sounds like i'll be doing this mod soon.

well if you have the crank pulley on it slows the alt speed down, make the alternator pulley smaller to keep it spinning close to what it was before

[KENNYMO]

can you measure the height of your alt pulley? the one thats on mine right now looks pretty small and i dont see how i could really go any smaller. i didnt change the pullies and im pretty sure the previous owner didnt either

[zippplok]

so how much does this bump the power up?

[Chris0nllyn]

7hp