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How To: Cruise Control Install

33K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  mojeeper 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
How-To: Cruise Control Install



I am a big believer in giving credit where credit is due. First off, a big thanks to Deathphoenix99 for hooking me up with a wiring connector for my truck, and the wiring diagrams. He also helped me with various questions I had while researching. Others helped as well, the thread "Cruise Control Installation!!!" will show all the questions I asked that people helped me with...THANK YOU!!!

This How-To covers how to install cruise control on your 98+ S-10 from scratch. Just for everyone’s information, most 98+ were not wired for it if the option wasn’t put on it from the factory. I say most because some people report that their vehicle does have the wiring for it. The way you find out is by looking at the brake master cylinder, the harness above it will have an unused 10 pin connector that is capped to prevent it from getting clogged. If your truck already has this connector, then all you have to do is follow the instructions here regarding installation of the Multifunction switch, and the Cruise Control Module, uncap the connecter and plug it into the Cruise Control Module, then as long as there is a fuse in Fuse 3 on the left of your dash, you will be ready to go. But for those of us who don't have the wiring, here is a simple How-To that explains how to run the necessary wiring for your truck. If you plan to wire up power windows, locks, etc, it is probably a good idea to just go get a harness out of a junkyard that has all the options, but if you just want the cruise, this will work.


I am making this a simple how-to for the purpose of getting it done quickly. I did mine the quickest way possible, and after you look at the wiring diagrams for it, you can wire it and dress it up the way you want.

Here is the wiring diagram I followed, I indicated on the diagram that the Brown/White wire may be Purple, and the Light Blue/Black wire may be White.

<IMG_0040>


Starting off, here is some information I gathered while researching this topic that may save you some time.

1. The cruise control modules for various years have different throttle attachments, so before you purchase one, look at your throttle lever and visualize how the cruise control cable needs to hook up to it. My truck is a 2000, but the module came out of a '99, it uses a "c-clip" type connection that just clips on to the throttle lever, kind of like hooking a clip on to the head of a nail.

2. Wiring diagrams differ very little from 94-04, the main difference being the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) input. Your year specific wiring diagrams can be found on deathphoenix99's sig, your Haynes manual, or various websites.

3. You can either use your own switches or you can purchase a multifunction switch, either way will work. If you decide to buy a multifunction switch for 98+, there is only one type that I know of.

4. When you are testing the cruise control after it is set up, make sure that your vehicle doesn’t have an airbag light, brake light, or ABS light on. It will not work if these lights are on, unless you wire it differently than I did to bypass it.

5. Some people find it easier to take off the air bag and steering wheel. I did not, but I imagine if you had the time to take it off, everything would be easier to get to!

6. This install was done on a truck with an automatic transmission. If you have a manual transmission, you can simply purchase a clutch switch and wire it into the brake input, or you can decide not to, but note that if you do not, the cruise will NOT DISENGAGE when you press the clutch, but like on the automatics, it will disengage only when you press the brake.

Again, this may not be the only way to install this, or even the best way, but it works. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE INCURRED BY YOURSELF OR YOUR VEHICLE BY INSTALLING THIS!

FYI this was installed on a 2000 Chevrolet S-10 2.2 Flex Fuel 2wd

Time To Install: Approximately 4 Hours

Tools Required:

(It's a good idea to have a full tool arsenal at your disposal, but these are the main ones!)

Flashlight
Socket Wrench
7mm socket
T-20 Torx bit
16 Gauge Wire
Wire Strippers
Electrical Tape/Soldering Iron/Wire Connectors (your choice)
Duct Tape & Sharpie (or some method of labeling your wires)
Wire Ties
Flat Head Screwdriver
Cordless/Corded Drill
Various Drill Bits (I think I used about 1/2 bit)
Grommet


As always, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery and wait at least 2 minutes to the airbags will not engage, we won’t be messing with the air bags but you never know!

Part I: Prepping the Multifunction Switch (MFS)

The MFS has two main connectors on it, locate the 17 Pin Connector and splice into the following with about 2 Feet of wire, these wires will need to be routed through the Firewall and connected to the same color wires on the Cruise Control Module (CCM) Connector, so label them accordingly.

Grey (Position A-12)
Brown (Position A-13)
Dark Blue (Position A-14)
Grey/Black (Position A-15)

Part II: Prepping the Cruise Control Module (CCM) Connector

These wires will be routed to various places, so the wires length will vary, but I put a good estimate out beside them. Remember to label these wires so you'll know which is which!

Pin D: Purple (Or Brown/White)-3-Feet
Pin E: Black/White- 2 Feet (just enough to wire it to your closest ground location)
Pin F: Brown- 1 Foot
Pin G: White (or Light Blue) - 3 Feet
Pin J: Light Blue/Black-5 Feet
Pin K: Dark Green/White-5 Feet

This is what your CCM and MFS should look like after they have been spliced into
<IMG0014>

Part III: Prepping the PCM Wires

Locate the PCM, it is behind the battery.

There are two connectors plugged into it, one on top, and one on bottom.
<IMG0024>

Remove the 7mm bolt holding the lower connector in

Locate Pin #16, it is a dark green/white wire, trace it back a few inches and splice a wire into it, label it appropriately.

Locate Pin #48, it is a light blue/black wire, trace it back a few inches and splice a wire into it, label it appropriately.

Part IV: Installation of Multifunction Switch (MFS)

Remove (or just lower) the lower dash cover as well as the panel the OBD II port is located on, by removing several 7mm screws.

Remove Upper Dash cover by removing the two 7mm screws holding it in and then pulling on the dash, you will have to disconnect the wiring harnesses connected to the passenger air bag control next to the CD Player as well as the headlight controls on the left side.

Remove the Gauge cluster by removing the four 7mm screws holding it in and disconnecting the wiring harness.

Remove the casing around the base of the steering wheel by removing the T-20 Torx screws on the bottom side.

Remove the original MFS, there is a T-20 Torx screw on top that is easily removed, the second screw is on the side, you will have to be patient and put a T-20 Torx Bit in the screw and then use a small wrench to unscrew it little by little!

Disconnect the MFS wiring harness from where it is hooked up under the dash, there are several little clips that have to be removed, and a 7mm bolt securing the MFS connector, remove it and slide the black 17 pin connector and gray 13 pin connector out. There are two 2 pin connectors hooked up as well, I disconnected the one on top of the steering column, but couldn’t get the other connected, so I just cut the wires to it and then spliced them into the new MFS switch.


Install the new MFS by installing the two T-20 Torx screws into the top and side of the base of the MFS, run the wiring harness down the dash and into the same place the original switch was connected to. Hook up the 2 pin connector on top of the steering column, and (in my case) connect the appropriate wires to the connector that is hard to get to on the right of the steering column.

You should be looking at this by now:
<IMG_0010>

Run a wire from the Cruise fuse (fuse #3) on the left side of the dash, and connect it to the MFS Pin A13 Brown wire extension.

Part V: Wiring everything to the CCM Connector

Drill a Hole (I used about 1/2" hole) through the firewall (I made my hole right next to the brake master cylinder) so that you can run wires through it. A grommet is a good idea to use so that your wires aren’t touching sharp metal.

<IMG_0016>

Place the CCM connector into the wiring harness above the brake master cylinder and run the wires from the MFS through the hole so that you can connect the following:

CCM Pin A (Grey)--->MFS Pin A12 (Grey)
CCM Pin B (Dark Blue)--->MFS Pin A14(Dark Blue)
CCM Pin C (Grey/Black)--->MFS Pin A15(Grey/Black)
CCM Pin F (Brown)--->MFS Pin A13(Brown)

After all these are connected, the remaining wires from the CCM connector need to be connected to the following:

CCM Pin D(Purple or Brown/White)--->Brake Switch (AKA Stop lamp) Pin C(Purple or Brown/White)
CCM Pin E(Black/White)--->Ground (I used the ground just above the brake master cylinder, but any good ground will work)
CCM Pin J (Light Blue/Black)--->PCM bottom connector Pin 48 (Light Blue/Black)
CCM Pin K (Dark Green/White)--->PCM bottom connector Pin 16 (Dark Green/White)

FYI:

1. I did not hook up Pin G (White or Light Blue), it is a fail-safe hook up just in case the brake switch doesn’t work, and is not required for the CCM to work. If you want to hook it up, you can run a wire from it to the stop lamps. I may do this here in a couple of days.

2. If you want a cruise on indicator light, you can wire CCM Pin J to an LED light in your dash or wherever you want it. Pin J is only grounded when the cruise is on.

Part VI: Installing the CCM

My CCM didn’t come with a bracket of any kind, and while I may get one in the future, it works without one.

Simply place the CCM on the firewall with the cable facing the engine and use some self tapping screws to bolt it into place.

Run the CCM cable along the firewall and connect the cable to the throttle lever using the C-Clip, and hook the fitting that sits just before the wire starts into the bracket to the right of the throttle lever.

Part VII: Final Touches

Hook up the CCM connector into the CCM and make sure there is a fuse in fuse #3 on the left side of the dash.

Put your steering wheel cover, gauge cluster, and dash back together in reverse order of the way you took it apart.

Hook up the negative terminal of the battery.

I think I covered everything, but if I missed anything that I think of, I will edit it later on. I hope this helps you out if you are attempting to hook up cruise control into your truck!

 

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#7 ·
Does anyone have a full cruise control set up for a 94 s10 that they would sell? I found the ccm but no servo on ebay.
 
#9 ·
damn haha my 95 i snagged the cruise module from a 97, cable from a later V6, and just hacked as much wire i could with the plug off it.$10 with a 30 day parts gurantee (meaning if it doesn't work or stops working i bring it back and i can get another one)

had it workign for 2 days then the module died so its been 5 years with this one just fine
 
#10 ·
deathphoenx99, need your held on getting my addition of cruise control on my 98 s10 2.2 5-speed. Followed the install article, trouble tree all checks good except circuit 817 dr green/white which does not transmit 25-30hz at 25mph. With ignition off 817 shows 2.1 volts, with ign on is shows 0 volts. I have checked three other s10 and all show 0 volts with ign off and 11+ volts with ign on. Same reading at the bcm. Got any ideas??
 
#13 ·
Tries this on mine, cruise doesn't work. Everything has power and I have tried 2 modules. Any suggestions?
 
#15 ·
I have a functioning turn signal stalk (already checked it). I am pretty sure I tapped the correct wire, but I am not certain. It's the only wiring problem I have had with all of the additions I have done to the truck.
 
#18 ·
Make sure everything else has power and the brake input's are correct. Follow this trouble shooting.

To do the following, you will need a 12 tester, either a light or voltmeter. THe fuses are Fuse #3 (Cruise 10A) and Fuse #22 (ABS 10A). Verify they have power before continuing.

Ground the ground side to the engine or a known good ground. Now probe with the (+) side the following wires. You may need someone to help you. So unplug the connector at the cruise module (located on the driver side firewall near the brake booster.)

With the key in the on position and the cruise switch in the on position.
Check the grey wire (Cruise on/off input) for +12V. If it has it, move on, if not, you have an open connection somewhere.

CHeck the brown/white wire (brake/clutch signal). If it has +12V, move on, if not, either the clutch switch is bad, or the brake switch is.

Check the black/white wire (ground) to verify it has a good connection. THis can be tested for continuity. Move on if grounded. If not, fix ground connection.

Check the brown wire (ignition) for +12V. If it has power, move on, if not fix open connection in the wire.

Check the grey/black wire (resume/accel input), have someone push the resume/accel switch, as long as the switch is being slid over, the wire should have a +12V. If it does not, it is possible the wire in the steering column pulled out of the connector if you have tilt. Refer to post #14.

Check the Dark Blue wire (set/coast input), have someone push the set button on the end of the turn signal trunk, as long as the button is being pushed, the wire should have +12V. If it does not, refer the the previous statement.

Now if all of the wires have power when they should, then either your module is bad, or it's not receiving the Vehicle Speed signal. Which would mean you would have to trace the wiring and check everything or test it for a frequency. It should be 4,000 pules per mile. But most likely the module is bad and you need to buy a junk yard one. Usually they cost around $30-$40 depending on the place.


http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f137/adding-cruise-control-370117/
 
#21 ·
I would stick with same year same motor. For sure same motor. I still have not figured out what is wrong with my cruise. It's getting frustrating.
 
#23 ·
I'm pretty interested in doing this mod to my truck, anyone have pics of where the factory mounted the CCM?

Also does anyone know if the CCM from a manual or auto trans truck differ?
 
#26 ·
Ok thanks for clarifying that.
 
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